monsterbombs

well in some weeks to come my evader will be running 14.8v
lipo and a vxl motor wich will make darth look like a girls blouse [X(]
doesnt matter what shell is on it, it will be savage dog at its best.
interesting.

BashNBurn

Wow MB!

If ball-diffs could talk - I think yours would be saying OHMOMMY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

monsterbombs

yeh i know its limits, i will have to be conservative at the least if i want
to keep things in tact. most off roading though, the wheels are spinning
or she's trying to get on her lid so alot of the stress is absorbed. i dont run
on pavement much anymore, and i had the old diff running a mamba 7700
on 2s geared to the moon doing drag starts on an oval.

if you give the wheels a chance to spin (burnout) like on grass and off road
the diff is pretty strong aslong as you dont land under power or baloon one wheel
for too long. i have rebuilt my diff with some custom parts but she still runs
the plastic diff gear.

i had to mount a fan on the esc and rewire the servo and reciever to run directly off
the lipo to take load off the speedy. i have bought the parts and am just waiting for them.
4s velineon/mamba in the evader will obviously be stupid amounts of power. so much power
its disgusting. so much it cant even be used. just ridiculous. boderline frightening.



































[8D]

or i could wire it wrong and expose a potential fire hazard.

BashNBurn

Roger on all MB...but thank heavens for slipper clutches, eh?...

I'm looking forawrd to a video of your "Rod-Zilla" ;-)

monsterbombs

my slipper is usually so tight it doesnt work anyway. i tighten
the diff tight as hell (reefed on it) after is was broke in. because
it was this tight, thrust discs were getting owned and even the steel
b2 diff rings ended up wearing it. i made cusom rings and got rid of the thrust.
now the weak points are ironed, out it should only destroy driveshafts
and wheel hexxes/pins .and anything else between the motor and
the ground.

should make for some interesting viewing.

Matt_Gruizinga

My Feedback: (1)

hey MB- a quark can handle up to 6s......

just had to stop in and see how things are going. thinking of getting my vader back up and running. (all it needs is a nut to hold the slipper down) other wise all my rc stuff hasn't been touched in at least 2 months.

good to see things are still the same around here.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

heyy matt, long time no see on here, was it you who was looking for an Al diff nut holder? cuz i found one its yours if you give me shipping info. If not the offers the same for all, but i'm pretty sure it was matt who was looking for one of these.

the lug

Matt_Gruizinga

My Feedback: (1)

yes that was me, i've been waiting to do a rebuild for almost 6 months now but ever since mine stripped my diff has been superglued together. lol if you could have seen my diff gear. the balls had melted through their holes and my diff was more of a huge bearing with teeth than a gear. so i superglue it all together.

i would love to have one, i just sent you a PM.

cswracing

Hey guys, havent been on the fourm in a while, decided i would post some pictuers of my vader
I bought about a year ago, I have to say, these things are tough lol



Dirty, after i ran it today, Enjoy [sm=thumbs_up.gif]















After i cleaded er' up














She's not really a looker but i'm proud of what i got lol.
All I have added is a new servo with steel gears
because i stripped the other one out, I'll try to shoot
a video tomorrow, if weather permits.

BashNBurn

She's a bute, CSW! I don't give a rip what anyone says about the "vader"...they're fun trucks for sure!

Just FYI... the photo with the body off...it looks like one of your front shocks is in a different mounting hole on the shock tower than the other ;-)

I'd thought I'd mention it because I'm sort of an expert at doing the same thing...inadvertantly ;-)

cswracing

Wow, i should have noticed that. Thanks bash, i probally would have never noticed haha.

monsterbombs

well guys i have been bad to my evader and i might be going to hell [&o]
i was literally going about 40mph+ when the evader fell down a 2 foot drop
into a concrete/steel retaining wall. WOT to stop in to time. i had freinds with
me and they all laughed,even i laughed then walked over to the wreck that was...

coincidently my camera was stuffed on my phone to take pics of the area but i was
in an industrial street were the road goes from bitumen to gravel(off road) i was hitting
top speed on the cocrete and just flogging into the rough crap at like 50mph. man the
suspension was working, then i came the other way and the back end got a bit tail happy.
i knew i was going to come onto the bitumen a bit wide but didnt know the edge of
the road stopped and went down several feet with iron uprights .

and there was like a steel/cast iron support thingo for some reason and the old vader hit
that head on at 40+. ok so i check out the wreck, a wheel is hanging off, the esc was thrown
out. so whats the damage? the hinge pin part on the chassis at the front is damaged, hinge pin
brace and a hub holder. its a shame the part of the hinge that broke is on the chassis,but besides
that im quite impressed,the hub holder was already broken. i expected to snap an arm at least.

heres some shots of the aftermath.




looks like the 4s might be going in the buggy....

Darknest07

just whanted to know how did you get your tires soo clean after???

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

yikes thats a nasty fix, it'll take for every but chassies aren't THAT bad
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXA6&P=Z thats the EXT the ST's 18
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAME3&P=Z

thats pretty insane that nothing else busted, its like $20 in repairs, just reading the story i was expecting busted arm or two, maybe a dead hub, front tower gone, and a bent shock shaft

the lug

monsterbombs

my thoughts exactly. admittadly the front shock tower was recently replaced
like 3 days ago and i dont go smashing into things but anyone who has driven
a vxl motor with a mamba max esc and a good 3s, she was going hard at top end
then slammed head on into metal and just stopped. what got me is how fast it
stopped. lol. i was watching the car and were it was going and then nothing.

sam rojas

My Feedback: (3)

30+ into a curb with no steering - I feel your pain - lol.

monsterbombs

yeh i saw them pics. nasty. that aftermarket bumper might not have helped.
how good are aftermarket ballcups? they are the other thing that gives me hassle.

mine doesnt look so bad now i guess [&:]

was the back end smashed too? that doesnt look nice sam. and is the chassis graphite too
or is it plastic? sorry for all the questions.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

i'd get the rpm LONG shank cups they're a lot beefier but you need the long ones cuz the others are too short


the lug

pede_187

Alrighty, change of plans from the monster truck evader project I was going to do. The track just started a modified Short Course class so I'm going to try and put something together out of the evader. This racing season just ended though so I basically have until sometime April to get this together. Now, I was planning on flipping the transmission around like is done on the strike and some people have done on their rustlers. Now this is going to be the tough part. It seems that I might have to build my own rear shock tower in order to do this correctly because the tranny doesn't really fit under the rear shock tower. Now, putting the whole building new shock tower aside for just a minute, does anyone have any other ideas how to flip the tranny around without building a new shock tower? (I am building the chassis myself)

sam rojas

My Feedback: (3)

it was my full graphite, pro version - front end (including that bumper) transmitted all the force straight thru to the servo cage - the battery came in as a battering ram and shoved the servo forward thru the bulk head. pretty awesome. kinda like smashing it in a vice. Intresting, not a single piece of the steering, front arms, etc. was damaged. bumper would have helped if I'd have hit at any angle other than head on (running at night, didn't realize I had no steering till about 15' before it crashed - WOT). Rear suspension support on one side tore thru 1 screw as well. Interesting thing was that both supports on the servo sheared off - which I'm pretty sure was due to battery sliding forward (blew out the short wall between the battery tub and the servo. I still say Graphite is like glass and should not be used for Bashing.[:-]

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

you may want to look into a nitro evader tranny? you could even run an Al diff also maybe try to scrape together some arm holders from the al rear plate that may help with mounting stuff

the lug

sam rojas

My Feedback: (3)

tried some RPM parts on my nitro RC10 GT - think I like there stuff - very beefy. DTX ball cups pretty much do the job for a while and then snap. Next order from RC Boyz, gonna see about getting what Lug recommended.

sam rojas

My Feedback: (3)

Not familiar with the nitro Evader, but the rear shock tower on the RC10GT is an interested set up, rear of the tranny. It's basically a couple of pieces that mount vertical with two screws thru the bottom of the chasis, with a brace to the tranny and battery box for lateral support. Not sure if it would be very strong without a battery box behind it.

something like the ST Pro metal rear plate would hold that fairly well, i'd think. you would need to make a piece that would bolt to the rear plate and then bolt the shock tower to that piece.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

the nitro's pretty much the same way i'd look into the nitro evader's tranny tho a bit stronger and would probally be a better setup for you

the lug

Matt_Gruizinga

My Feedback: (1)

Have you though about turning the rear shock tower around, and switch the turnbuckles to the other side (ditto with the shocks) then start to notch you tower until you can get the tranny to fit. may the power of the dremel be with you