The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Hi thank you for the compliment, In my ST the up grade i did in the tranny was 1 i got the metal idler from the nitro evader and installed the nylon B2 diff gear. i also used the b2 diff ring and used the stelth diff greese it supposed to be really good. i kept the same steel balls in it they work fine for me. in the future though i might change the diff to the metal one i have if i blow out the one i have now, but my tranny is holding up really nice and its really smooth and im running the ss+ 5800. IN my other vader the buggy, i used the duratrax diff rebuilt kit, even though i didnt need to and i also installed a nylon b2 diff gear using the same stealth greese for the diff. that was pretty much it and the buggy is alot smoother also. My next order for stuff im going to order a metal idler for the buggy and more nylon b2 diff gears and more greese. Im keeping the metal diff gear like i said if i blow the nylon gear but so far its holding up pretty good.
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Hey guys check this forum. And watch the little video in the first post. I am going there to race next Sunday.
I am going to put my Evader against some more XXX-Ts and T4s.
http://www.iowarctracks.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=681
I already have my Road Rage tires ready to go, I got to get her lower yet. I am looking forward to it.
Wish me luck.
If this doesn't work, I will get the REVO out to run the MT class.
Ron
I am going to put my Evader against some more XXX-Ts and T4s.
http://www.iowarctracks.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=681
I already have my Road Rage tires ready to go, I got to get her lower yet. I am looking forward to it.
Wish me luck.
If this doesn't work, I will get the REVO out to run the MT class.
Ron
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
ORIGINAL: Flyojumper
So raz54, what did you do? Did you revert to the plastic diff gear and kept the aluminium idler? Did it fix your problem and no stripping since?
Also, did you measure the alum idler versus the plastic idler by any chance? (is the aluminium slightly smaller?) What were the exact dimensions of both diff gears when you measured them? Did you notice the difference I was talking about on sharp pointy teeth for plastic versus more rounded less "meshy" for the aluminium? (even when new)
Phew, I know it's a quite a few questions but I'd really like to get to the bottom of this... If anyone has some input on this, please post.
So raz54, what did you do? Did you revert to the plastic diff gear and kept the aluminium idler? Did it fix your problem and no stripping since?
Also, did you measure the alum idler versus the plastic idler by any chance? (is the aluminium slightly smaller?) What were the exact dimensions of both diff gears when you measured them? Did you notice the difference I was talking about on sharp pointy teeth for plastic versus more rounded less "meshy" for the aluminium? (even when new)
Phew, I know it's a quite a few questions but I'd really like to get to the bottom of this... If anyone has some input on this, please post.
I didn't notice the difference in the teeth till you pointed it out but yes the metal gears teeth are shorter and rounded looking. I put a new metal idler gear and the old stock diff gear in and have not had any problems since. The stock diff gear measures 26.50 mm and the metal one is 26.30 mm, probably because of the rounded teeth.
#2504
RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Alright, thanks! If anyone has the measurements of the aluminium versus the plastic idler gear, please keep me posted, I have the feeling the difference is even slightly larger than the 0.2mm difference Raz measured between both diff gears.
Cheech4, can I ask you a couple questions on your nylon B2 diff gear? First, how are the teeth when it is new? Are they pointed and sharp like the stock duratrax plastic one or a little bit more rounded? And secondly, are the holes for the differential balls more towards the outside of the gear than on the stock gear? (I'd rather not use the B2 diff rings, I have them and they are not a good fit for the duratrax outdrives, there is a gap between the inside of the ring and the outdrive and they can move around)
Cheech4, can I ask you a couple questions on your nylon B2 diff gear? First, how are the teeth when it is new? Are they pointed and sharp like the stock duratrax plastic one or a little bit more rounded? And secondly, are the holes for the differential balls more towards the outside of the gear than on the stock gear? (I'd rather not use the B2 diff rings, I have them and they are not a good fit for the duratrax outdrives, there is a gap between the inside of the ring and the outdrive and they can move around)
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
theres 48 teeth on the diff brand new and yes it is as pointy as the stock diff, the only difference i see in the diff is that the spacing between where the balls go are larger, theres more space inbetween the balls, and the other is the holes seem to be closer to the outer ring. the stock diff is lowered a tiny bit
#2506
RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Ok, last question: do you use the stock diff rings with it or are you using the B2 diff rings? I wish the B2's would fit the outdrives as well as the stock ones...
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
101 Pages
Anyway since we're on this subject anywho, what would be the ideal tranny set up for the Evader St? I thought it would be the all metal one, but after reading the last couple posts I'm thinking maybe not?
Any input?
Anyway since we're on this subject anywho, what would be the ideal tranny set up for the Evader St? I thought it would be the all metal one, but after reading the last couple posts I'm thinking maybe not?
Any input?
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
on the ST i used the b2 diff rings, on my BX i used the evader diff rings, both have the b2 diff gear. Currently the ST has the aluminum idler the BX does not. honeslty i dont see a purpose of getting the metal idler for the BX either cuz im not going brushless on it.
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
ORIGINAL: NewGuy1980
101 Pages
Anyway since we're on this subject anywho, what would be the ideal tranny set up for the Evader St? I thought it would be the all metal one, but after reading the last couple posts I'm thinking maybe not?
Any input?
101 Pages
Anyway since we're on this subject anywho, what would be the ideal tranny set up for the Evader St? I thought it would be the all metal one, but after reading the last couple posts I'm thinking maybe not?
Any input?
I would go with the alum idler and stock diff gear and rings and as long as you lube it well and keep it adjusted properly you should not have any problems. My nephew and I both run bl motors on 7 cells and have had no trany problems with this set up.
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
I wanna say thanks to Newguy 1980 for the diff write up. It seems like a crazy way to adjust things but untill I tried it I was never going to have everything tight enough. I rebuilt a diff with the Duratrax rebuild kit and for the life of me I couldnt figure out what I was doing wrong. I kept assuming that if anything I was tightening everything up too much but when Id run the vader everything would be slipping and it wouild be making that awfull sound. I did what the write up says and finally Im back up and running. That and the motors Raz sent me anyway. Thanks again Raz
Oh yeah I kind of agree with flyojumper on the b2 parts. They seem to be a little off spec. The rings are too big and at least for me the B2 diff gear wouldn,t fit at all. (diff gear 2.40:1 B3/B2/T3 Part #9365) The whole through the center is way smaller than the duratrax nylon diff gear. I wondered if I wasn,t supposed to grind it out but wouldn,t it have to be perfectly round?
Oh yeah I kind of agree with flyojumper on the b2 parts. They seem to be a little off spec. The rings are too big and at least for me the B2 diff gear wouldn,t fit at all. (diff gear 2.40:1 B3/B2/T3 Part #9365) The whole through the center is way smaller than the duratrax nylon diff gear. I wondered if I wasn,t supposed to grind it out but wouldn,t it have to be perfectly round?
#2512
RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
If you use the B2 diff gear, whether it is the nylon or the HGI alloy one, you have to use a 5x8 bearing in the middle (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD109&P=ML). I would strongly advise against grinding it out because as you said it would have to be perfectly round and not off center at all...
#2514
RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Since we are on the subject of that write up (originally posted on the hobby talk forum I believe but later reposted there ==> http://www.ualberta.ca/~rodneyf/evader/diff.html), I must say I have mixed feelings about it.
I originally used it when I got my evader with the stock motor but it always felt a little "dangerous" and very "tranny taxing" in the back of my mind...
I wouldn't dare try it with my GTB BL combo now though.
If you think about it, when you do that, the whole starting torque of the motor is going straight into the tranny and onto the teeth, with no way out but the slipper. It doesn't mimic any regular use condition and the tranny stress could be huge if the motor is strong enough. I wouldn't be surprised at all if some people break idler teeth or warp their gearbox slightly by doing that with a powerful motor.
I think a much safer way to do it is to tighten the diff all the way and then loosen the slipper progressively until all wheelies disappear and the slipper slips for only a few feet.
I originally used it when I got my evader with the stock motor but it always felt a little "dangerous" and very "tranny taxing" in the back of my mind...
I wouldn't dare try it with my GTB BL combo now though.
If you think about it, when you do that, the whole starting torque of the motor is going straight into the tranny and onto the teeth, with no way out but the slipper. It doesn't mimic any regular use condition and the tranny stress could be huge if the motor is strong enough. I wouldn't be surprised at all if some people break idler teeth or warp their gearbox slightly by doing that with a powerful motor.
I think a much safer way to do it is to tighten the diff all the way and then loosen the slipper progressively until all wheelies disappear and the slipper slips for only a few feet.
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
The problem for me is that theres not a fastener on any of my cars that I cant strip out if I ain't payin attention. Im used to working on bycicles and lawnmowers and stuff. This gave me something to guage things with. I do agree that theres gotta be a better way. Especially when flyo brings up the point that this doesnt mimic any driving condition. [&o] Hes right! It just dont feel natura!!! but us newbs have to have start somewhere. My son lost the video that came with his ST so I aint even got that[:@] Oh and thanks flyo for posting the link to the bearings. I was pretty sure that would be the only other option but I have a cheap calibrator tool thingamajig and it only measures to 64ths of an inch. This would be ok except that I cant figure out how to properly enter figures into any of the online conversion charts. makes odreing mods kind of tough! post u later
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
j-boy: get one of these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ELECTRONIC-DIGIT...QQcmdZViewItem
You can find these ,cheap, on E-BAY anythime. Just search for "digital calipers".
They work just fine for what we do.
Ron
http://cgi.ebay.com/ELECTRONIC-DIGIT...QQcmdZViewItem
You can find these ,cheap, on E-BAY anythime. Just search for "digital calipers".
They work just fine for what we do.
Ron
#2517
RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
new notevader bash vids at the campground saturday
they are camp bash 4 and 5 here
http://www.putfile.com/discgolfer72
thr other campbash vids are my bandit
they are camp bash 4 and 5 here
http://www.putfile.com/discgolfer72
thr other campbash vids are my bandit
#2518
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Thanks for pointing out that I didn't write that, I only posted it in hopes of helping others out. I have used the methods in the write up and they work well, but as you stated, I would worry about doing it with hotter motors. I have only done it with 20-27t motors. I would even worry about a good 19t. I also just tighten the diff down all the way and loosen the slipper until a wheelie disappears. With the exception of that little part of the write-up, I think it is a pretty good one and does a good job of describing how to adjust the tranny. I am sure someone could write up a better one too and include the info on changing out the plastic idler and the using the b2 nylon gear.
Later
Duneslider
Later
Duneslider
ORIGINAL: Flyojumper
Since we are on the subject of that write up (originally posted on the hobby talk forum I believe but later reposted there ==> http://www.ualberta.ca/~rodneyf/evader/diff.html), I must say I have mixed feelings about it.
I originally used it when I got my evader with the stock motor but it always felt a little "dangerous" and very "tranny taxing" in the back of my mind...
I wouldn't dare try it with my GTB BL combo now though.
If you think about it, when you do that, the whole starting torque of the motor is going straight into the tranny and onto the teeth, with no way out but the slipper. It doesn't mimic any regular use condition and the tranny stress could be huge if the motor is strong enough. I wouldn't be surprised at all if some people break idler teeth or warp their gearbox slightly by doing that with a powerful motor.
I think a much safer way to do it is to tighten the diff all the way and then loosen the slipper progressively until all wheelies disappear and the slipper slips for only a few feet.
Since we are on the subject of that write up (originally posted on the hobby talk forum I believe but later reposted there ==> http://www.ualberta.ca/~rodneyf/evader/diff.html), I must say I have mixed feelings about it.
I originally used it when I got my evader with the stock motor but it always felt a little "dangerous" and very "tranny taxing" in the back of my mind...
I wouldn't dare try it with my GTB BL combo now though.
If you think about it, when you do that, the whole starting torque of the motor is going straight into the tranny and onto the teeth, with no way out but the slipper. It doesn't mimic any regular use condition and the tranny stress could be huge if the motor is strong enough. I wouldn't be surprised at all if some people break idler teeth or warp their gearbox slightly by doing that with a powerful motor.
I think a much safer way to do it is to tighten the diff all the way and then loosen the slipper progressively until all wheelies disappear and the slipper slips for only a few feet.
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
ORIGINAL: NewGuy1980
Sorry duneslider I was just trying to give credit where credit was due I didn't know it wasn't a good write up (new guy)
Sorry duneslider I was just trying to give credit where credit was due I didn't know it wasn't a good write up (new guy)
I do think it is a good write-up. For most of us evader runners it is great. Most of us don't have brushless and low turn motors. I still haven't gone with anything faster than my 27t P2K2 Pro. Not enough power in there to hurt much of anything. It is a great article and many of the newer guys can use it rather than asking questions that have been asked a dozen times. But like it was stated, once higher powered motors are being used it might be a good idea to adjust the slipper a little differently.
Duneslider
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Hey guys, I want to keep my Reedy motor in good shape for races. I want to get some new brushes for my stock 20t motor for driving up and down my street and what not. I have the Duratrax part number, but which brushes will fit? For example, my Reedy uses 766 and 767 laydown brushes. Also, I bought the front sway bar kit. Is the green(thick) or yellow(thin) one better for an offroad track with several tight turns?