CustomTamiyas4Life

My Feedback: (34)

16 or 17/88.

EVADERCHAOS--that's a huge rooster tail! Around here there's never dry dirt like that.

raz54

Actually they are not that tall (they just look it). I ran them with a 16T pinion and the motor never got hot at all and that was doing a lot of hill climbing.

Flyojumper

Tamiyacrawler, don't forget it's a BX and not a ST, so it's lighter and has smaller tires (3.5")
From what I've read on the Team Orion forum, the B4 user manual suggests a 10.02 final gear ratio for the B4 on 12 turns mod motors. That's 81/21 on the B4 with the 2.6 internal tranny. On the Evader BX with a 2.66 tranny that'd be... aroud 88/23 to have a final ratio of 10.02.
Anyone has more suggestions on how high of a gearing I could safely use on the Revolution 12x2? You guys think I can put it at 88/23 like what the B4 manual would recommend? How about 88/21?

EVADERCHAOS

That sucks. Living in So. Cal. has its benefits. lol It just rained pretty decently today after like 2 weeks of perfect, sunny, 85* days. I might get some more traction in that dirt now.

It (the roost) is bigger than what you can see, but I had to take the pic myself while holding the controller in one hand. lol

When i whip the car into a turn, the roost is HUGE shooting around in a circle. lol A big dust cloud drifts across my backyard when I do donuts.

Some other roost pics. I took these by myself too, so the roost is not too big. That explains the stupid blur too.

CustomTamiyas4Life

My Feedback: (34)

AHHHGGG!!! I hate this stupid ball diff!!!I will never own another ball diff!!! I rebuilt it three times, with thee different greases, and it still slips. I then tightened it too far, and now the ball diff is stuck together because i stripped the hole and can't loosten it to take it apart!! I think my last flippin option is to lock it by dripping superr glue in there or something to lock it. I hate these. I never had 1 problem with a gear diff and have taken them apart several times. For bashers, BALL DIFFS DIE!!! And no, it's not my slipper slipping.
I rebuilt it perfectly and even tried the thickest grease i could find, but nothing works! I even put in new diff rings, but now i'm screwed kuz i czn't get it apart.

ob1n

My Feedback: (14)

tamiya crawler....dude, your life is harsh, man. I TOTALLY agree with the as far as ball diffs and backyard bashing. They don't belong on this earth together. Let me ask you....did you bench test your diff before installing it.....or is that what your doing already? I remember back when I was racing my ultima pro....if I could get the damn diff to work.....I'd be ok. But, of course, that was back when we were trying to use the ball diff AS the slipper as well.....before the concept of a totally seperate slipper clutch was being utilized. One thing that I do remember was that, when bench testing, that no matter how tight you tightened the screw(before it stripped; yeah, it happened to me)......there was ALWAYS some slippage. But, that depended on your method of testing it. However, I had a Blackfoot(original) with the Thorp ball diff......and I loved that thing. I think the main difference was, and this is pretty obivious, the fact the blackfoot diff was nearly twice as large as my ultima pro diff. I used to use automotive style grease when building my diffs because it was easily available to me. I found no problems using this type of lube over what the manufacturer recommended. Anyway, I'd like to help if I can......or maybe this does already.....then, maybe not. Sorry to hear about your sinking ship, man....but don't worry.....before you know it, you'll have a streamlined attack sub!! Laters. Ob1n

CustomTamiyas4Life

My Feedback: (34)

But, this thing seriously slips for like 35 feet after pinning it. When goin real easy like 6 feet and i mean like at 1/5 throttle. It truly is stripped because i just attempted to loosten it very gently for like 15 turns and the screw won't come out at all. I think i'll just have to lock it until i can get some new diff. I wonder if my tamiya twin detonator gear diff will fit? Maybe too big, but i'm desperate because i was glad to finally get a servo to work, but now thwere's new problems.....

EVADERCHAOS

Need quick help!!

What size and type of screws are used on the rear toe-in blocks for the Pro?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...84&FVPROFIL=++
That crap is Fu**ing expensive.

EVADERCHAOS

I need the 4 screws in the middle of this pic.
http://duratrax.com/caraccys/dtxc6050a-2.jpg
Button heads or what? aahhhh[&:]

Grimdeath

40x5/16 F/H Machine Screw is what the parts diagram says.
The parts diagram is online here for the BX:
[link=http://www.duratrax.com/pdf/dtxd28-exploded.pdf]http://www.duratrax.com/pdf/dtxd28-exploded.pdf[/link]
Here is the ST (same screws):
[link=http://www.duratrax.com/pdf/dtxd27-exploded.pdf]http://www.duratrax.com/pdf/dtxd27-exploded.pdf[/link]

I ran my BX Pro (Reedy 19T + 7-cell pack) today with a 23T generic pinion and it is ungodly fast. So fast, that if I give the car full throttle while doing 1/3 speed or less the wheels still spin! In fact, if I WOT from a stop it will fish tail all over the place.
As it's <20 degrees today the motor and ESC are cool
I can't wait to throw in a zapped 7-cell IB3800 with some deans connectors.

EVADERCHAOS

I know that but those screws are different than the ones that are used with the toe-in block

BTW did you see my second post? There is a pic of the ones I need but I don't know what they are.

duneslider

Actually, they are 3x10mm Button Head Screws. When the thing first came out they used a different screw, now they use the button head screws.

Those dang rear toe blocks are expensive. I am currently working on an aluminum one and also I have another idea that might be cheaper and easier to make but work just as well. Hopefully before spring/summer I can have it figured out, tested, and ready to go. I am currently drawing everything up in CAD then I need to move it to Solidworks and then take it to the machine shop. I think I will push the rear toe blocks to the front of my list.

Until then, keep giving duratrax all your hard earned money.

Later
Duneslider

EVADERCHAOS

I may be interested in those alum. blocks if this keeps up.[:@] lol

So should I try to get my hands on these?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHFR1&P=7
Those are the only button heads on tower I think.

duneslider

That should work.

I will keep the coalition updated.

Later
Duneslider

EVADERCHAOS

Sweet, thanks a ton. I'm going to go out and buy that expensive ass stuf in a little while and go for a bash since it stopped raining. It is beautiful outside now considering it downpoured 2 hours ago.

discgolfer72

time to pimp da vader

since i used to have a 69 elcamino (blew it up in a race)i think this 70 camino body will be a nice look on the old vader

im suprised its made for a t-emax (yhought id have to cut wheel wells bigger) but so far it looks like it matches up pretty good(after i install new body mounts)

Flyojumper

So guys, how fast is everyone going in their evader? (do tell you motor/battery setup, gearing and the method used for the speed estimate)

Right now my BX is doing 28mph with an Orion Revolution modified 12x2, geared 88/21 and with deans connectors.

My weak link is now the battery, here is what I use:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1&I=LXCUH3&P=K

Anyone know how many mph I would gain by using the IB3800 from BoomBoom batteries? (don't get my hopes up, I'd rather have a conservative estimate)

discgolfer72

sweet stage one complete and its looking good (again im suprised how well its mounting up )

raz54

I haven't checked it with the new motor but with the stock photon speed motor, 7 cells and a 20t piniom I hit 33 mph with my st (checked by radar).

CustomTamiyas4Life

My Feedback: (34)

Flyojumper, you should be smokin 28 with that motor and gearing. I'm doing 25 with my stocker and 18/90 gearing in the st. Well, i wruined my diff by stripping it, so i'll get a new one but i had some fun with the broken one. I pinned the throttle until that dang thing was smokin! Fun way to blow a diff. I need to be carefun next diff.

How do you guys think i should make a wheelie bar? Should i just make it an extension or incorperate it into the whole rear plate? I already made the aluminum shock towers, but i might rethink the design. Should i do an all aluminum tranny including the casing or should i jus do aluminum rims on the Monstervader?

Flyojumper

Tamiyacrawler, I know, I still don't understand what's up... I forgot, are you running a 7 cell btw?
When I had my fireball 13t, maxed timing, 88/23, same batteries with tamiya connectors I was doing 23mph.

Then I got this new motor, I upgraded all my plugs to deans and:
At 88/17 it does 23mph.
At 88/19 it does 26mph.
And at 88/21 it does 28mph.
That's with default timing at 18 degree.

To say the truth I was expecting 30+ with that motor but I'm still not there yet...
Before I did all that I rebuilt the tranny, it's very smooth now, freewheels for about 5s. I checked and oiled all bearings too.

I don't know what's up...
Raz54, what kind of battery is it? Sport pack or a good matched one? GP? IB?

I don't know how some of you guys can pull faster speed with lesser motors on a truck (heavier) while staying around the same adjusted gearing as me (adjusted for tire size). Are you all running top of the line batteries and do they make that much of a difference? Would my setup hit 35-36mph on IB3800 from BoomBoom? (gain of +7-8? is that possible on batteries alone?)

CustomTamiyas4Life

My Feedback: (34)

I'm using 6 cell sport pack for 25. Is it your esc? When i owned a duratrax esc, it only let like 6v max go to the motor and a 27,21, and 13t both topped out at the same speed because they were all getting the same voltage.

Flyojumper

On a different topic, has anyone here gotten Duratrax to send replacement parts for broken pieces (graphite or ST) before (or without) sending the broken part back?
I just broke the back of my chassis (bad jump landed completely on roof of car, surprisingly the rear tower didn't break but it's the chassis at the point where they meet that cracked). The car is still usable as it is and I was wondering if I took a picture of the broken part and emailed it to them, could they send me the replacement before I send them back that broken part? So I wouldn't have to wait the 2 weeks turnaround time without a chassis...

Flyojumper

So you are not using the duratrax esc? Which one are you using?
I doubt it would be my ESC, it's rated up to 7 cells, why would it limit the current to 6V? Defective? How would I go about testing it? (no voltmeter here)

Doahh

Already tried that... you have to send it in