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  1. #26
    moose_guy70's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.


    ORIGINAL: tamiyacrawler


    ORIGINAL: moose_guy70

    hey I probaly made some of you guys mad with my review on the evader but I have revised it with what I think now.
    Ya, I was kinda pis*** as i've never broken anything off of big jumps never mind small ones.
    It just seemed to break more because I was comeing from slower stock xxx-t but after I got my new motor I started to figure out that the faster the car the more part you will break. so sorry for making you mad.
    If your not cheating your not trying!

  2. #27

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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    okay, about the diff gear.
    I am running a Novak GTB and a velociti 5.5. It melts the plastic gears in no time flat. it melts ae nylon gears in a somewhat longer period of time. It doesn't melt alloy gears. the alloy gear is actually pretty light, and the weight difference hasn't made any difference. (well, at least to me) If you are looking to make the high power BL setups work, keep your eyes open for B2 alloy diff gears. (if you can find them, the HG ones are verry nice. If any one wants one, I may be coming into posession of an extra one, if the ebay guy ever ships it...
    fo\' sho\' old schoo\' since \'87

  3. #28

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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    I've been hiding in the shadows for the past month looking on the post about the evader. I have two and looking to get a third one. I use to own a nitro evader but gave me heck. LOve the electric, plug and play no hassle. Im looking to tinker with the chassie. My wife races with me, but has broken two chassies[:@] Need to find more sus*****on and a aluminum chassie. Anyone know if kdmkysoho has made a chassie yet?

  4. #29

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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    Are you breaking the pro chassis? I haven't heard of anyone breaking the graphite chassis. I know racing can be rough on parts but generally the jumps aren't big enough to break a chassis.

    What are people willing to pay for an aluminum chassis?

    Later

    Duneslider
    Toe-block Braces
    The end of broken Evader toe-in blocks!

  5. #30
    rushrtr3's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    I ordered my evader st pro the other day from tower. Cain't wait for it to get here!
    Nitro 3 with an OS .18 CV-RX, HPI Savage SS 4.6
    Evader pro. www.rushedrc.50megs.com (Custom Paintjobs)

  6. #31

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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    Here is that write up on adjusting the diff and slipper. If someone wants to try it with a high powered motot and see if the gear still melts I would be curious. They claim that by using the ae nylon gear and adjusting like this most people won't have problems.

    Later
    Duneslider

    Ball diff slippage can as we know melt the diff gear. If the slipper gives before the ball diff the gear will be safe. Here is how I check the balance between my slipper and ball diff.

    1. Remove the cover revealing the spur and pinion gears.
    2. Tighten the slipper all the way
    3. Back off the slipper ΒΌ turn.
    4. Hold the right rear wheel and spur gear so they cannot turn I use the heel of my hand to hold the tire to a table top while holding the spur with my fingers.
    5. Try to turn the left wheel with your left hand (as if truck were moving forward). It should be almost impossible to turn the left wheel. If so stop. Your diff is good. If you can turn the wheel and the slipper shaft is not turning your diff is too loose.
    6. Tighten the diff 1/8th turn and re-test.
    7. Repeat until the wheel will not turn without turning the slipper.

    Once the diff is adjusted you will need to set the slipper.
    This can be fun!

    1. Turn your radio and truck on
    2. Hold the truck out in front of you, holding it by the rear wheels. The truck should hang nose down.
    3. Have some one pull full throttle on the transmitter. Be careful it does not hit you in the nose. If the truck comes up above level the slipper is too tight. Loosen it and re-test. If the truck comes up between Β½ (45 degrees) to level you are good. If the truck does not come at least Β½ way up tighten the slipper a little and re-test.

    I have developed a way to do this myself, I sit down and put the truck between my knees (bottom facing me) and use the transmitter myself, I can't convince my wife to even touch my truck, not to mention help. It has also been said by Hydro_Gin that it is important to do this periodically and especially when you hear funny noises out of the rear end of the truck.


    jep rc offers the following advice:

    12-09-2002, 11:09 PM
    Jacob -

    You hit the nail on the head with your question about how snug is snug regarding the Evader diff. I think this is the main problem people have with the diff. The idea is to fully compress the little spring on the diff screw then back off just slightly while still leaving the spring compressed. I think most people stop tightening before the spring is compressed, and then back off, which results in a loose diff, and melted diff gear shortly thereafter.

    The problem is, it is difficult to know when the spring is fully compressed - and tightening too much will result in a stripped nut, or broken nut carrier.

    The best thing to do is to try tightening a diff while it is assembled, but out of the tranny, so you can look carefully at the spring and get a feel for when it is tight - you *can* tell the difference between when the nut initially contacts the spring, and when the spring bottoms out fully compressed.

    Hope that makes sense.

    Jep
    Toe-block Braces
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  7. #32
    EVADERCHAOS's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.


    ORIGINAL: raz54

    Thanks Corry for starting this[sm=thumbup.gif]
    No problemo!

    Good news. I have recent worked out a sale on my Evader ST. Yess! As soon as the guy buys it (either tomorrow or sunday) I will be on Tower ordering my Evader Pro[8D]. Ooh yes, it will be red.[&:]
    The Evader Coalition ~ Founder
    Garage: ~ Evader ST Pro (Positive R/C : Venom Racing : Team Orion : Pro-Line)

  8. #33
    CustomTamiyas4Life's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    Yaaaaaayyyyy, so now i won't be the only one besides doahh with a pro!! It's an awesome truck.
    TNX gasser/Brushless/4s revo 3.3/stampede with nearly nothing stock left/homemade lexan 2wd truck

  9. #34
    Doahh's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    sadly you will still be the only one... aside from cory with a pro
    Racing Cars: FT 18T with Mamba 8000kv system, XXX-S with 24T Birdman Pro Pro motor and Novak GTB, FT RC10T4 with Chamelion and GTB
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  10. #35
    CustomTamiyas4Life's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    Why, did you already sell it on ebay?
    TNX gasser/Brushless/4s revo 3.3/stampede with nearly nothing stock left/homemade lexan 2wd truck

  11. #36
    Doahh's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    it's at 222.50... one day to go too...
    reserve at 290...
    Racing Cars: FT 18T with Mamba 8000kv system, XXX-S with 24T Birdman Pro Pro motor and Novak GTB, FT RC10T4 with Chamelion and GTB
    Sponsored by: Driven Pro
    Performance Devices
    BoomBoomBatteries

  12. #37

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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    What you talking about, I have a pro. The only thing I don't have is a good esc. I have two evaders, one regular and one pro. All I need to have both running is another esc.

    Later

    Duneslider
    Toe-block Braces
    The end of broken Evader toe-in blocks!

  13. #38
    CustomTamiyas4Life's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    ok, 3 to like 10 normal
    TNX gasser/Brushless/4s revo 3.3/stampede with nearly nothing stock left/homemade lexan 2wd truck

  14. #39

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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    I have a Pro ST and I want to get a new motor, wheels & rims. there is nothing wrong with what I have I just like to tinker. By the way I love my Evader.

  15. #40
    moose_guy70's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    there are a few others cause I have a pro also
    If your not cheating your not trying!

  16. #41

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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    ORIGINAL: tamiyacrawler

    Yaaaaaayyyyy, so now i won't be the only one besides doahh with a pro!! It's an awesome truck.



    I'll be getting the pro next pay day (finally!).
    \"My Mustang is a hybrid, it burns gas and rubber.\"

  17. #42
    -Inverted-'s Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    it's at 222.50
    LOL
    The Living Legend

  18. #43

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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    I stripped my spur gear last weekend and had to wait till last night to get a new one. It turns out that the mesh between the spur and pinnion was wrong, anyway I installed my new one and it seems OK after a test run last night. I also got some 35wt shock oil and have the green (stiffer) springs now. So I am ready for hose big jumps again. I will try to get some photos of the jumps this weekend and post them next week. Just thought yopu guys might like to know. Thanks again for the advice in the other thread.

    P.S. Love this new thread. Go the Evader.
    Love to thrash my Evader

  19. #44

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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    Ok guys, I need somebody to school me on shocks.

    I definitely need to go to a heavier shock oil. A guy at the LHS recommended 30 or so for the front, but I can't remember what he said about the rear shocks....

  20. #45
    Doahh's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    30 in the front 25 in the rear
    Racing Cars: FT 18T with Mamba 8000kv system, XXX-S with 24T Birdman Pro Pro motor and Novak GTB, FT RC10T4 with Chamelion and GTB
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  21. #46

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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.


    ORIGINAL: 1ek4guy

    this thread is great by the way. i was reading the other evader forum which directed me to this. what do you guys recommend doing when the plastic threads get stripped out? jb weld?
    CA glue on the screw, it is strong yet removeable. JB weld only if you fill the hole then re-tap it.

  22. #47

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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.


    ORIGINAL: Doahh

    30 in the front 25 in the rear

    Sounds about right. Any particular brand of oil you find works best? would I be doing any damage by emptying out the current shocks and replacing them with the new fluid, or should I do a whole new shock assembly?

  23. #48
    CustomTamiyas4Life's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    I use kindwald full weight oils, just changing the oil is good, but make sure you allow all of the air bubbles to go to the top and bleed them or they work like crap.
    TNX gasser/Brushless/4s revo 3.3/stampede with nearly nothing stock left/homemade lexan 2wd truck

  24. #49
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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    grrrr.. I have a problem with my ESC. when it's on and i move the wire (form the batery to esc) then it goes on and off. I also notice that on the conector to the batery the plastic of the connector melt were the 2 black wire will connect. can anybody tell me what happened here ?
    will I have to change the ESC ? if yes, which one should I get ?
    XXX-t and T4 , Evader pro BX Chameleon pro2,bunch of aluminum... by the way nothing beat my ZZR 1200 !!! hahaha

  25. #50

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    RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.

    Are you still using the tamiya connectors? Those things always melt. Get rid of them and put on some Deans connectors
    \"My Mustang is a hybrid, it burns gas and rubber.\"


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