philp37

There has been a myth perpetuated on forums and by some hobby shop personell ever since the Evader came out. The myth that an evader st is a basically a losi xxt. (The same being said about the buggy versions) That Duratrax bought the molds from losi and made some minor mods. Easy to believe at first glance because they look similar
They are not made from the same moulds. There are a few parts that will fit both.

molded parts of similar size that fit with little or no alteration:

front bumper, xxt
a-arms, xxt-cr, xxxt (xxt arms will fit, but will narrow tread width)
Rims – all losi 1/10 stadium trucks. (xxxt -2 take different hubs)
F& R shock towers xxt, xxxt. (One takes some mod of the rear tower)


Moulded parts not fitting Evader from any Losi:

Chassis (looks similar but at front are very different)
Servo Brace
Front Brace
Rear Transmission Brace
Toe In - Anti Squat knuckle
Battery Strap
Front Bulkhead
Rear Chassis Plate
Motor Guard
Bell Crank Set
Steering Servo Set
Steering Servo Mount

Even the moulded parts that do fit are NOT from the same mould.
These lists are very near complete. I am not sure about hubs, carriers, and front body mount.

The transmission design is very different from Losi as is most of the slipper. The Evader Trans does resemble an AE stealth trans and some AE parts do fit it.

The evader will take rims that fit AE and Losi, but the losi ones are the ones with the correct goemetry. Losi length rods from the xxxt also fit.
Many other manufacturers shocks will fit, including losi, AE, sportwerks Raven

The turnbuckles of xxt-cr and xxxt will fit. The xxt are two short unless xxt a-arms were used. The hinge pins are all different in both length and design.
I have not finished researching the xxxt-2. however, longer arms is the main theme, so many of the same parts compatibilities or lack there of should be true.
Please advise me of any errors or omissions on my list.

jubal117

I am in the process of rebuilding my transmissions in all my Evaders. I was wondering if you should put any lube on the idler and diff gear. I have heard from some people that you leave them dry, and from others that you use grease. I figured before I put them back together, that I would get some advice from these forums. Sorry if this has already been asked, but I didn't see the answer I needed in the previous pages. Thanks in advance for your advice.

raz54

If you are going to all the trouble of rebuilding your tranys you should upgrade to the aluminum idler gear too. If you do then you have to grease both metal gears teeth.

duneslider

In addition to what Raz said, use grease even if you just use plastic. In moving parts like that grease will help. It might not be needed but it will help. As to how much to use, I don't think you need a lot but some put in as much as they can fit. I like enough to just coat everything.

duneslider

cheech4

what kind of grease is recomended?????

raz54

Does any one have an idea why my motor would be cutting out? It doesn't do it when I'm close to it but when I am about 25 feet or farther away the motor cuts out, forward and reverse. All the wires from the esc to the motor are factory soldered and I have Deans connectors on the battery. It just recently started and it's getting worse. The steering still works so it's only the motor and the truck doesn't stop, it just cuts out till it's close to me again. I even tried replacing the antenna wire in case it was broke but no change. Forgot to mention it is the novak SS4300 esc / motor

CustomTamiyas4Life

My Feedback: (34)

Sounds like what happened to me before...it was my reciever though.

How come noone's responding to the pm's[]?

raz54

How would I test the rx to see if that's what's doing it? I never have taken the motor apart yet to clean it, could that cause it?

discgolfer72

this is what i reccomend for the dif gear
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...91&FVPROFIL=++

dont get it anywhere els other than the diff (make shure to wash ur hands after using before installing any thing els also on the gears themselfs i use regular white automotive motor assembley grease it works awsome and on the bottle i have now it even says for use on rc cars to

CustomTamiyas4Life

My Feedback: (34)

Not sure how to test it, but it most likely is NOT the motor being dirty.

Also, a little advice...NEVER run a reedy quad mag in water. I ran it on a drizzle-slicked road and it's wruined. The torque now sucks and the speed is slightly lowers. So, now my evader is trash to me. The tranny is dead, the motor and esc are done, the rim is cracked, etc. Anyone interested pm me.

The worst part is i can't use anything off of it. The wheels don't use hexes and the shocks are too long for my other cars.

dracohowe

hey does anyone here wanna buy an evader off me (comes with some extras) pm me

smromiti

What's shrink tube?

discgolfer72

this is shrink tube
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...nk&FVPROFIL=++

dracohowe ur gonna get in trouble if u keep tryin to sell that thing here put it in the sales section here

raz54

How would a little drizzle hurt the motor? I have ran them totally submergerd and never hurt them. I could see damaging the esc though if it got wet. That's too bad about your vader.

Crash7772

The motor is the first thing I would check. It doesn't take much to upset a motor and this is one of the most overlooked items, also look at remote batteries. If your reciever has seen hard impacts and water it could be a issue as well. If you have another motor or reciever try that if not try to clean your current motor, even brushless need some care. Worst case contact Novak for ideas. We have a fan at work that has been a dog lately so my buddy took it apart......it was a brushless design. He knows I have dealt with RC for many years and I had told him to clean it with alcohol and relube the bushings so he took my advice. He put it back together and was surprised how it ran. Low was like being on high prior and the motor ran cool....before after 5 mins you couldn't even touch it. Just goes to show anything that produces power and rotates needs care. Not saying it's your problem but never rule it out. Could even be a broken wire or loose wire. Just look close and at everything...it's always the small simple things we miss. Don't forget about crystals....I have seen them cause issues as well.

CustomTamiyas4Life

My Feedback: (34)

Ya, i've submerged motors too. I thought something else was up though, so i cut the comm and cleaned it and nothing. The brushes are new and the esc is fine so...

dracohowe

oh sorry uhh where is the sales section

raz54

I just tried had my truck on the stand turned on and started walking out side holding the throttle down just a little and about 25' away it started speeding up then slowing down. If it was the motor though wouldn't it be doing it all the time and not just as it gets farther away?

cheech4

ok so associated diff lube for the diff, and white greese for the rest if the tranny. got it thanks

raz54

The white grease (or clear) goes in the diff and the black grease on the gears.






I just put all my old stuff back on (motor / esc) and at first it was working good then it started cutting out again and the more I ran it the worse it was getting. At least I know it's not my new bl motor but does that sound like a rx or possibly a xtal?

Crash7772

Sounds like the next step...if you don't have another set or rx see if you can borrow them. Last solution find a cheap radio with rx and xtals or if your going to spend the money get a really nice one. Usually the rx and xtals are about the same as a radio set.

raz54

I can borrow another radio (complete) but that won't tell me if it's the rx, tx or xtals, mine is 75 and the other is 27.

discgolfer72

[quote]ORIGINAL: raz54

The white grease (or clear) goes in the diff and the black grease on the gears.





i told him to use automotive white motor asslembly grease to lube the actual gears
that what he means by white grease /it works awsome its what i use on all my cars it even says for use on rc trans gears on the bottle i have now

its a heck of a lot cheaper than using the ass black gear lube think i paid 3 bucks for my bottle and its huge
now i just need to find somthing thats cheapand works as good as the diff luube

Crash7772

Could rule out the motor/esc 100% though.

raz54

I put on all my old stuff (motor,esc) and it still does it. Then I took the rx out of my boat and put it in and had to use the boat tx as well and it still does it. The more I run it the more it acts kike gicthing. The only thing different is the aluminum front end, could that be causeing this? It even does it at the hit of the throttle so the truck is barely moving (less than 1 mph). It has to be something in the truck since I replaced everything else.