rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

ohh yeah i forgot about that stuff my dad has some like silicone sealer stuff idk but its flexible glue and thick that i'm gunna be using on mine...

i've been doing some thinking and some thicker fluid or smaller pistons up front will help with the nose down flight tendancy's because when you hit the jump the front suspention compresses due to the 30*caster angle so if you run a stiffer shock, fluid/piston or spring then you should be able to curb that, personally i'd run a thicker fluid/piston i may be going to 1.0mm pistons up front and maybe 1.1's in the rear with 30 wt

the lug

Darknest07

Just got some FREE new bearings for my front wheels, the old ones were really rusty (were the original one from when I bought the truck 4 yrs ago.).





Getting my parts tomorrow[sm=spinnyeyes.gif][sm=teeth_smile.gif][sm=tongue_smile.gif]

nitrocomplex1776

No one likes rusty ball......bearings[>:]

monsterbombs

get some bearing oil for those bearings,
they will love you for it.

Darknest07

Dont need to, I got the self oiling ones.
I got them free from my dad, he sells All types of bearings/balls and many aircarft parts for many big compagnies.
All I need to do is give him the mesurement and the quantity and I will get High quality bearings ,No Charge.

Matt_Gruizinga

My Feedback: (1)

self oiling? how does this work and why haven't any of the rc bearing companies make these.

p.s. can i get free ones or are they only free to you. lol

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

meaning they're sealed, but personally i wouldn't trust them trinity royal oil ALL THE WAY

the lug

Matt_Gruizinga

My Feedback: (1)

correction-trinity royal blue oil

lol just messin

Darknest07

lol...
No, the bearing my dad sells are sold to real airplane,car,...compagines
ex: Airbus,Bombardier...

Anyways He had them in stock so I got them free (FOR ME ONLY!!!, lol).

-Got my parts today, now i'm ready to drive except that its raining...[sm=drowning.gif] (always wanted to use that smiley)

nitrocomplex1776

Yeah well take those free ball bearings and................

.
....just joking as i say if it's free it's for me. hey take it right [>:]

Darknest07

Got a question, I just came back from a run and my motor was really hot (castlecreations 5700kv), was wondering if anyone would know the cause.
I have stock spur and a 20t pinion,
do I need a heatsink?

Matt_Gruizinga

My Feedback: (1)

don't take this the wrong way but....really?


if you want the answer yes a heatsink would help but you should really change your gearing. probably up maybe too a 24t or a 25t.


i'm sorry i'm just running out of patience

nitrocomplex1776

Mr. Gruizinga is there a one size fits all heat sink or do they did to be bought for fit depending on the motor be bare with me i have never used heat sinks before but i would like to get one and just get some info before spending.


Thank you.

Darknest07

Is the duatrax motor mount/heatsink good or should I get a wrap around motor heatsink?

nitrocomplex1776

Dark i would get a wrap around the mount plate just seems dumb the wrap on fins i do know work real good.

But i still need to know about fitment and all that.

sam rojas

My Feedback: (3)

the last vader I picked up came with a wrap around heat sink - seems you can simply bend it to fit any motor can size. big problem I see with it is the lack of a rear bumper. need to drilla couple holes to make a bumper work with it.

Matt_Gruizinga

My Feedback: (1)

well, because the motor on the evader is mounted left to right you want a heat sink with fins that go front to back. this way the air cools every fin and not just the first one. here are two examples of heat sinks that do this

[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLHJ9&P=7]tamiya[/link]
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVWE7&P=7]integy[/link]

heat sinks you want to stay away from are the ones with fins that go left to right. you see, the air will hit the first fin on the heatsink and cool it, and maybe a couple more fins after it. but what about the last fin? none of the air that hit the first one is coming over the last one. thus, giving it insufficient cooling. here is a couple examples

[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTG84&P=7]assocaited[/link]
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNLZ7&P=7]novak[/link]
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJD62&P=7]traxxas[/link]

now also remeber the amount of space you have. the tamiya one i listed, although the fins point the right way, will not work. because it will not mount in a efficient position. you would have to remove your rear bumper and put the heat sing on the back of your motor. to provide maximum performance it should be mounted on the top of your motor. this is also the reason why i don't like the integy one, but i'm pretty sure it was designed to work in these conditions. however, it will probably not cool much more than the tamiya one.

my suggestion is this- get a fan unit. this will pull hot air off your motor/pull cool air onto it. the come in a couple different arrangements but all will work. here are some that should work

[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVAR4&P=7]integy 1[/link]
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWMD0&P=7]integy 2[/link]
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUDN1&P=7]muchmore[/link][link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRXY6&P=7]associated[/link]

another alternative and much more costly way to go it watercooled. i have never seen this done but it would be real simple to do. here is how i would do it-
total cost $60+shipping
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX7194&P=ML]small pump[/link]
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJFE2&P=7]small tank[/link]
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVXT4&P=7]water cooled jacket[/link] (remember to check your measurements as this only fit's motors with an outer diameter of 36mm, which is most 540 sized motors)

except for the watercooled jacket always use thermal paste on your heatsink to ensure a good connection between your motor and heatsink. also you talked about which ones will FIT. any think for 540 sized motor but just to be safe also double check your diameters to see if it will fit around your motor

Redvanmafia

Take it easy man, dont snap out you probs coax him into buying a crappy evader, its your problem now lmao

Darknest07

I think I will be getting this:
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNDP3&P=7]integy heatsink/single Fan[/link]

nitrocomplex1776

I think i will just let my motor sweat.


The ignore button is awesome you don't have to read the stupid posts.

Redvanmafia

you guys just dont like the truth, it hurts to much lol

whitehawk

My Feedback: (3)

I have a new EXT with only about 6 batt. packs through it. After one cartwheel crash, which didn't look bad at all, the motor kinda squeeled when given throttle. I noticed that when I picked the truck up and gave it throttle, there was no unusual noise. But when I set it down it would run fine for about 10' or so and then start making the noise again. After closer examination I noticed that when I pushed slightly down on the vehicle and then gave it throttle, essentially preventing the rear wheels from turning, the noise instantly appeared and the pinion? gear spun freely without engaging the spur? gear. When I looked at the clear plastic housing around the spur? gear, I noticed what kinda looked like black dust, and the pinion? gear and spur? gear look slightly worn - like maybe the teeth on one or both of the gears are chewed up a little.

Any idea on how to fix this? Any help is appreciated as I'm a noob.

Regards,

Tim

Aimlessone

You may have chewed up the spur gear, but try setting the proper gear mesh first and make sure the motor screws are tight. If that doesn't help then you'll have to get a new spur gear of the same size (88 tooth 48 pitch).

Edit: The pinion gear is the one attached to the motor, the spur is attached to the slipper clutch. The EXT is also over-geared from the factory so I suggest getting a 18 tooth pinion as well. The Photon Speed 2 motor runs very hot with a 20 tooth pinion.

Darknest07

try unmounting the motor and reinstalling it properly,check for any defects on the gears.
If noise still presists, idk, but manybe open your tranny and check is out. Also after reinstalling the motor, readjust the diff.

tHis shOuLd HElP

whitehawk

My Feedback: (3)

Dumb question I'm sure, but how to you set the gear mesh? Also, you're recommending the 18 tooth pinion, right? I assume that this would also work with the same stock spur gear?

Thanks,

Tim