vintage rc official old school thread
#51
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RE: vintage rc official old school thread
Here are links to some closer pics of the car (sorry, not the best pics in the world). That plastic piece looks like it belongs, not an "oops, forgot to remove it from the parts" thing.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ars/RC10_4.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ars/RC10_3.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ars/RC10_2.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ars/RC10_1.jpg
The plastic piece I'm talking about is in front of the shock tower base, and is black (errr...greyish) in the pictures. It lies on the chassis, and looks like the piece, along with the a-arm pieces, are all one. I'll find out for sure when I disassemble this weekend. I gotta clean this thing up - it's terrible looking in the pics, but is in decent shape. Came with 3 bodies, all pretty decent.
Also - any idea why the steering servo is mounted crooked-like? I'd think that I'll want to straighten it up, so the long side of it runs parallel to the lenght of the car.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ars/RC10_4.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ars/RC10_3.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ars/RC10_2.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ars/RC10_1.jpg
The plastic piece I'm talking about is in front of the shock tower base, and is black (errr...greyish) in the pictures. It lies on the chassis, and looks like the piece, along with the a-arm pieces, are all one. I'll find out for sure when I disassemble this weekend. I gotta clean this thing up - it's terrible looking in the pics, but is in decent shape. Came with 3 bodies, all pretty decent.
Also - any idea why the steering servo is mounted crooked-like? I'd think that I'll want to straighten it up, so the long side of it runs parallel to the lenght of the car.
#52
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RE: vintage rc official old school thread
Also, here are links to pics of my Mid SE.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...dHawgsSide.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...MidHawgsFr.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...idAlumSide.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3.../MidAlumFr.jpg
I've also got some lower-profile Option House micro-block tires for the HPI white rims shown, looks really nice with them on. But I won't likely use them much initially, since I want the Hawgs on for grass/pavement bashing around the house.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...dHawgsSide.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...MidHawgsFr.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...idAlumSide.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3.../MidAlumFr.jpg
I've also got some lower-profile Option House micro-block tires for the HPI white rims shown, looks really nice with them on. But I won't likely use them much initially, since I want the Hawgs on for grass/pavement bashing around the house.
#53
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RE: vintage rc official old school thread
Upon further review - best I can tell, my RC10 looks like an RC 10 Team Car version, with some odd parts thrown in here and there from other versions. The battery mounts longitudinally (along the length of the car), and the tranny looks "bumpy" from the outside. A lot of the other RC10 versions have a smoother tranny cover, especially where it curves around the motor (see my pics above for the bumpiness).
However, I don't have a spacer between my tranny and the motor plate it bolts to, like the ones in the manuals have. Hmm.
Anyway, let me know what you think, discgolfer72. I might just use the Team Car parts list, and drag the car with me as well to my local hobby store to get some new parts.
However, I don't have a spacer between my tranny and the motor plate it bolts to, like the ones in the manuals have. Hmm.
Anyway, let me know what you think, discgolfer72. I might just use the Team Car parts list, and drag the car with me as well to my local hobby store to get some new parts.
#54
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RE: vintage rc official old school thread
well u def have a newer version of the rc10 since it has the wide track a arm in front
and u also have the stealth tranny that didnt come out untill around 1990-91
it looks like the chassis was cut and shined(color removed) thoes steering arms ar an aftermarket part cant tell if they are alum or the rpm ones from the pics thi slant in the servo is prob cause they have the bat going the way it is most servos wont fit in that space u can change the way the bat sits by getting another battrie tray and mounting them side by side
by spacer i guess u mean that felt thing yea u should probaly get one since u have the stealth (? is there extra holes underneath where ur tranny mounts it might have ben upgraded to the stealth )
it dosent really matter what manual u go buy the barts are interchangeable just make shure the parts are the same as the ones on ur car (unless u want to go orignal but id stay with the wide track /if u saw my vids the short track dosent corner well at high speed )and if they are not they will still work
if u want a really sweet look with really great handeling go to the top of the first page and there is a truggy conversion chart its awsome (if u just go with the a arms dont change anything els it looks wicked /think the second pic (or first)from the left on top is with just the a arms)
oh yea sweet cars
heres some inside pics the one with all white part is a orignal rc10
first 4 pics are the truggy conversion
and u also have the stealth tranny that didnt come out untill around 1990-91
it looks like the chassis was cut and shined(color removed) thoes steering arms ar an aftermarket part cant tell if they are alum or the rpm ones from the pics thi slant in the servo is prob cause they have the bat going the way it is most servos wont fit in that space u can change the way the bat sits by getting another battrie tray and mounting them side by side
by spacer i guess u mean that felt thing yea u should probaly get one since u have the stealth (? is there extra holes underneath where ur tranny mounts it might have ben upgraded to the stealth )
it dosent really matter what manual u go buy the barts are interchangeable just make shure the parts are the same as the ones on ur car (unless u want to go orignal but id stay with the wide track /if u saw my vids the short track dosent corner well at high speed )and if they are not they will still work
if u want a really sweet look with really great handeling go to the top of the first page and there is a truggy conversion chart its awsome (if u just go with the a arms dont change anything els it looks wicked /think the second pic (or first)from the left on top is with just the a arms)
oh yea sweet cars
heres some inside pics the one with all white part is a orignal rc10
first 4 pics are the truggy conversion
#55
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RE: vintage rc official old school thread
Hey guys, would somebody please post a couple of close up pictures of a buggy body off the chassis so that I can see how to trim one up to fit? I think I know but don't want to screw it up. Oh yeah, it's going on a gold pan RC10.
Thanks
Thanks
#56
Thread Starter
RE: vintage rc official old school thread
last few pages in here have the orignal how to
http://www.theshreves.com/rc_stuff/manuals/ae_rc10/
and here are some of mine i dinnt do the gold one and the red black one is cutout for the rocket rc10
the other one is for a rc10 but it has a diffrent shock tower
http://www.theshreves.com/rc_stuff/manuals/ae_rc10/
and here are some of mine i dinnt do the gold one and the red black one is cutout for the rocket rc10
the other one is for a rc10 but it has a diffrent shock tower
#57
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RE: vintage rc official old school thread
Well, after a ~15 year hiatus from R/C, I decided to dig out my old car to see if it'd still run. Lo and behold, but the darn thing still works! Gotta love the bulletproof old-school stuff. Hey, even my old battery still holds a charge, though not for very long anymore. Charge it for 15 minutes, run it for 5 minutes. Charge it for another 15 minutes, run for another 5. But hey, it's still fun.
RC10 Team Car (Black chassis)
Kraft KP2KWP 2ch transmitter (Pistol Grip, 75MHz AM)
Futaba 2ch receiver
1700mAH NiCD 6-cell battery
Trinity Speedworks Sapphire motor (17 turn)
Novak T-4 ESC
and an old MRC RB-485 AC/DC charger
So, now that it's running, I just have to work out a steering servo glitch that I'm occasionally seeing, fix a broken steering servo mount (the plastic cracked, doubt it was my driving - probably poor assembly skills oh so long ago), get a better battery or two (and a newer charger to handle NiMH), and re-learn how to drive the thing.
I opted to try and get this one going first to make sure I'm really wanting to get back in this, and then later I'll go and get something newer and more suited for the area I'm now in.
So, with all that, a couple of questions:
1) Are the NiMH batteries drop-in replacements for the NiCD ones (other than a different charger, of course)?
2) My current receiver is such that I don't have to have a seperate receiver battery pack (powers from the main 6-cell) for it and the steering servo. How much of a power drain is that? Is it worth it, realistically, to get a seperate battery for the receiver/servo or am I only losing maybe 30 seconds to a minute of runtime by using the main battery power?
Thanks, all!
-K
RC10 Team Car (Black chassis)
Kraft KP2KWP 2ch transmitter (Pistol Grip, 75MHz AM)
Futaba 2ch receiver
1700mAH NiCD 6-cell battery
Trinity Speedworks Sapphire motor (17 turn)
Novak T-4 ESC
and an old MRC RB-485 AC/DC charger
So, now that it's running, I just have to work out a steering servo glitch that I'm occasionally seeing, fix a broken steering servo mount (the plastic cracked, doubt it was my driving - probably poor assembly skills oh so long ago), get a better battery or two (and a newer charger to handle NiMH), and re-learn how to drive the thing.
I opted to try and get this one going first to make sure I'm really wanting to get back in this, and then later I'll go and get something newer and more suited for the area I'm now in.
So, with all that, a couple of questions:
1) Are the NiMH batteries drop-in replacements for the NiCD ones (other than a different charger, of course)?
2) My current receiver is such that I don't have to have a seperate receiver battery pack (powers from the main 6-cell) for it and the steering servo. How much of a power drain is that? Is it worth it, realistically, to get a seperate battery for the receiver/servo or am I only losing maybe 30 seconds to a minute of runtime by using the main battery power?
Thanks, all!
-K
#58
Thread Starter
RE: vintage rc official old school thread
ahhhh burnt up my bal dif on my rc10 oh well
what do u think sound like a burn dif
http://www.rcpics.net/img/73981
what do u think sound like a burn dif
http://www.rcpics.net/img/73981
#59
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RE: vintage rc official old school thread
Hi Kyle,
Welcome back. I'll offer what I can even though I just got back into electric myself.
That set up sounds pretty good even for today. Lots of stuff has changed since the late 80's/early 90's. Well, not really changed but become more refined and sophisticated (hasn't everything?). Lots more plastic in use, lots more electronics and more powerful batterys.
To answer your questions
#1, Nicads and Nimhs are completely interchangable as far as voltage goes. NiCads are old school, less capicity and subject to te "memory effect". Nimh's have a much higher capacity (4200mah is tops right now I think) and not nearly as suseptable to developing a memory.
#2, Almost all rx's now days use bec technology. In fact, some esc's can be damaged by the use of a seperate battery pack. The little bit of runtime you lose powering the rx is more than made up for in the weight savings of not having those extra batterys.
Discgolfer, Thanks for the pictures and the link to the manual. I should be able to post a couple pictures of the work in progress soon.
Welcome back. I'll offer what I can even though I just got back into electric myself.
That set up sounds pretty good even for today. Lots of stuff has changed since the late 80's/early 90's. Well, not really changed but become more refined and sophisticated (hasn't everything?). Lots more plastic in use, lots more electronics and more powerful batterys.
To answer your questions
#1, Nicads and Nimhs are completely interchangable as far as voltage goes. NiCads are old school, less capicity and subject to te "memory effect". Nimh's have a much higher capacity (4200mah is tops right now I think) and not nearly as suseptable to developing a memory.
#2, Almost all rx's now days use bec technology. In fact, some esc's can be damaged by the use of a seperate battery pack. The little bit of runtime you lose powering the rx is more than made up for in the weight savings of not having those extra batterys.
Discgolfer, Thanks for the pictures and the link to the manual. I should be able to post a couple pictures of the work in progress soon.
#61
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RE: vintage rc official old school thread
KyleR
i wouldent bother getting a new kit (unless u just want to )i race my rc10's and my old losi xx and place in the top four on a regular bassis the only advantage to the newer cars is they are a little lighter (not buy much /if u have the graphite rc10)but they are also porer built just today i broke my evaders tranny my rc18mt is down for the count with a cracked cchassis and the only broblems ive had with my oldies is just now today i burnt up a dif in my rc10t (15 year old diff) my evader tranny is only a year old so before u go buying the so called newest best stuff out there just think u have a car than can take a full speed hit into a wall and drive right back to you
i would upgrade to some new bats tho they make a big diffrence (id go for at least gp3300)and if u want a good charger for mh and cd bats the vision peak charger is good and its only 40 $ i also recemond a 9 turn speedgems (think its called kryptonite) motor if u want the speeds as in my rc 10 vids (or any trinity motor product)(stay away from cheap orion motors and the venom fire ball motors)
you wont notice much of a time loss with the bec circut on ur reciver (esp with some high quality bats)
ps just incase u dont have a manual for ur esc here u go
http://www.teamnovak.com/download/in...1_T4_Instr.pdf
i wouldent bother getting a new kit (unless u just want to )i race my rc10's and my old losi xx and place in the top four on a regular bassis the only advantage to the newer cars is they are a little lighter (not buy much /if u have the graphite rc10)but they are also porer built just today i broke my evaders tranny my rc18mt is down for the count with a cracked cchassis and the only broblems ive had with my oldies is just now today i burnt up a dif in my rc10t (15 year old diff) my evader tranny is only a year old so before u go buying the so called newest best stuff out there just think u have a car than can take a full speed hit into a wall and drive right back to you
i would upgrade to some new bats tho they make a big diffrence (id go for at least gp3300)and if u want a good charger for mh and cd bats the vision peak charger is good and its only 40 $ i also recemond a 9 turn speedgems (think its called kryptonite) motor if u want the speeds as in my rc 10 vids (or any trinity motor product)(stay away from cheap orion motors and the venom fire ball motors)
you wont notice much of a time loss with the bec circut on ur reciver (esp with some high quality bats)
ps just incase u dont have a manual for ur esc here u go
http://www.teamnovak.com/download/in...1_T4_Instr.pdf
#62
Thread Starter
RE: vintage rc official old school thread
oh yea kyle this might breathe a little life back into thos old nicd bats of yours
http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articl...scharger_1.asp
Dawman
got any pics lets see some before and after resto need any help ill see what i can do (dont know too much about old losi/excpt the xx)
http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articl...scharger_1.asp
Dawman
got any pics lets see some before and after resto need any help ill see what i can do (dont know too much about old losi/excpt the xx)
#63
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RE: vintage rc official old school thread
ORIGINAL: discgolfer72
KyleR
i wouldent bother getting a new kit (unless u just want to )i race my rc10's and my old losi xx and place in the top four on a regular bassis the only advantage to the newer cars is they are a little lighter (not buy much /if u have the graphite rc10)but they are also porer built just today i broke my evaders tranny my rc18mt is down for the count with a cracked cchassis and the only broblems ive had with my oldies is just now today i burnt up a dif in my rc10t (15 year old diff) my evader tranny is only a year old so before u go buying the so called newest best stuff out there just think u have a car than can take a full speed hit into a wall and drive right back to you
KyleR
i wouldent bother getting a new kit (unless u just want to )i race my rc10's and my old losi xx and place in the top four on a regular bassis the only advantage to the newer cars is they are a little lighter (not buy much /if u have the graphite rc10)but they are also porer built just today i broke my evaders tranny my rc18mt is down for the count with a cracked cchassis and the only broblems ive had with my oldies is just now today i burnt up a dif in my rc10t (15 year old diff) my evader tranny is only a year old so before u go buying the so called newest best stuff out there just think u have a car than can take a full speed hit into a wall and drive right back to you
Actually, the reason for possibly getting a new car is more due to the terrain that's in my yard. ~5 acres of converted field / horse pasture doesn't make for good 2wd buggy terrain I'm finding out. Heck, it gives my riding lawn mower a workout. My gravel driveways and some of the grassy areas are okay, but that's about it, so I'm looking more towards a 4wd MT if I really decide to get back into this all (and if my wife doesn't have too big a fit when I tell her I'm gonna blow $500-$600 on a "toy").
ORIGINAL: discgolfer72
i would upgrade to some new bats tho they make a big diffrence (id go for at least gp3300)and if u want a good charger for mh and cd bats the vision peak charger is good and its only 40 $ i also recemond a 9 turn speedgems (think its called kryptonite) motor if u want the speeds as in my rc 10 vids (or any trinity motor product)(stay away from cheap orion motors and the venom fire ball motors)
you wont notice much of a time loss with the bec circut on ur reciver (esp with some high quality bats)
i would upgrade to some new bats tho they make a big diffrence (id go for at least gp3300)and if u want a good charger for mh and cd bats the vision peak charger is good and its only 40 $ i also recemond a 9 turn speedgems (think its called kryptonite) motor if u want the speeds as in my rc 10 vids (or any trinity motor product)(stay away from cheap orion motors and the venom fire ball motors)
you wont notice much of a time loss with the bec circut on ur reciver (esp with some high quality bats)
Good to know about the BEC stuff. Wasn't sure if that was a fad or a marketing ploy or something that actually worked okay.
ORIGINAL: discgolfer72
ps just incase u dont have a manual for ur esc here u go
http://www.teamnovak.com/download/in...1_T4_Instr.pdf
ps just incase u dont have a manual for ur esc here u go
http://www.teamnovak.com/download/in...1_T4_Instr.pdf
Thanks DG72 and DaveG!
#64
Thread Starter
RE: vintage rc official old school thread
rough terain hit up ebay for a old rc10 t saame black chassis as yours just better suspenion got mine for 27 $+30$ for a old tekin tsc410 esc
and your welcome
and your welcome
#65
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RE: vintage rc official old school thread
ORIGINAL: discgolfer72
sweet is that a rc10ds or a conversion
got a part # list if it is
i have a parts car laying around and that would be a good new project to keep me bussy till gm unlayes me off (got about two weeks left from what my boss says
oh yea KioIII the old lunch box is pretty sweet
the super wheelie is a knock of of the wild wwilly and the lunchbox
sweet is that a rc10ds or a conversion
got a part # list if it is
i have a parts car laying around and that would be a good new project to keep me bussy till gm unlayes me off (got about two weeks left from what my boss says
oh yea KioIII the old lunch box is pretty sweet
the super wheelie is a knock of of the wild wwilly and the lunchbox
True ds package ? prolly not . but it is a convertion , also thought it would make a good sprint car if i could ever find a sprint car body ..
#66
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RE: vintage rc official old school thread
finaly got the bandit tweaked here are some vids
http://www.rcpics.net/img/74044
http://www.rcpics.net/img/74045
http://www.rcpics.net/img/74044
http://www.rcpics.net/img/74045
#67
Thread Starter
RE: vintage rc official old school thread
well fried my 87 t spur gear so i went back to the 78 t one and a 23t pinion (11t reedy ultra mr.tmodfied motor)
heres the result gained about 5mph
http://www.rcpics.net/img/74062
http://www.rcpics.net/img/74064
http://www.rcpics.net/img/74066
heres the result gained about 5mph
http://www.rcpics.net/img/74062
http://www.rcpics.net/img/74064
http://www.rcpics.net/img/74066
#68
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RE: vintage rc official old school thread
sweet. i think you should get a vid of you jumping some of ur rc stuff. you could make some sweet vids. also i dunno if itd be possible to time it good enough but itd be worth a try, try taking a rocket car off a jump [X(]
just a suggestion.
just a suggestion.
#69
Thread Starter
RE: vintage rc official old school thread
one of the rocket vids should be it jumping over a dirt pile(it didnt do to well lol)
yea i will get some other jump vids but im down by 2 cars right now my vader and my rc10 t (my good jumpers) are bolth haveing tranny problems nowe and wont be running for awhile(im broke)
but i willl be filming some more offroad rc10 vids soon found some real good bashing spots keep ur eyes out
yea i will get some other jump vids but im down by 2 cars right now my vader and my rc10 t (my good jumpers) are bolth haveing tranny problems nowe and wont be running for awhile(im broke)
but i willl be filming some more offroad rc10 vids soon found some real good bashing spots keep ur eyes out
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RE: vintage rc official old school thread
To the RC10 gurus:
Any recommendations on where to get some new wheels for a vintage RC10? It uses the pin-through-the-axle technique to xfer power to the wheels (hopefully you know what I mean). I know Team Associated sells stock old school wheels, but what if I want some nice aluminum/chrome ones (or even plastic spoked ones) that work? I'm not sure who sells wheels that have that "plus" on the inside so they fit on the RC10 rear axle, around that pin.
I'm also struggling to find adapters that let me run Fox/Falcon style wheels on the RC10. (I've got spare Falcon rims in great shape I can use at home). I found a pair of these (called Team Pit Stop Delrin Adapter Hubs) for $10, but that seems overpriced.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1
Thanks for the input, as always!
Any recommendations on where to get some new wheels for a vintage RC10? It uses the pin-through-the-axle technique to xfer power to the wheels (hopefully you know what I mean). I know Team Associated sells stock old school wheels, but what if I want some nice aluminum/chrome ones (or even plastic spoked ones) that work? I'm not sure who sells wheels that have that "plus" on the inside so they fit on the RC10 rear axle, around that pin.
I'm also struggling to find adapters that let me run Fox/Falcon style wheels on the RC10. (I've got spare Falcon rims in great shape I can use at home). I found a pair of these (called Team Pit Stop Delrin Adapter Hubs) for $10, but that seems overpriced.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1
Thanks for the input, as always!
#71
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RE: vintage rc official old school thread
rpm sells rims for the rc10 im guessing u mean the orignal rear axles with the pin
just search rpm for associated wheeles (make shure they arnt for the gt tho) in my pics on the first page the rc10t with the crome wheeles and the truggy conversion bplth have the rp[m wheels
10 bucks isnt bad the ones for my rc18mt where 15$
im off to the disc golf park to film some vids so keep an eye open for some new vids tonight
just search rpm for associated wheeles (make shure they arnt for the gt tho) in my pics on the first page the rc10t with the crome wheeles and the truggy conversion bplth have the rp[m wheels
10 bucks isnt bad the ones for my rc18mt where 15$
im off to the disc golf park to film some vids so keep an eye open for some new vids tonight
#72
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RE: vintage rc official old school thread
RPM rims - got it. Thanks man. Your rims on the 1st page are sweet, too. And yep, the rear axle w/the pin is what I'm talking about (I didn't do a good job of describing it...).
Good to know $10 isn't bad for the adapters.
Thanks, you've been a huge help! Good luck with the vid shooting!
Good to know $10 isn't bad for the adapters.
Thanks, you've been a huge help! Good luck with the vid shooting!
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RE: vintage rc official old school thread
Amm i read the title of this forum and was wondering how old does a car need to be to count as old school because i have a ten year old shumacher cougar but i reckon its too modern
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RE: vintage rc official old school thread
Schumacher cougar? Well, 10 years still seems old to me. I always liked the Schumacher buggy look, but never got a chance to own one. Post some pics, man! [8D]
How do you like it? Are finding parts a pain for it nowadays?
How do you like it? Are finding parts a pain for it nowadays?