Barber420

My Feedback: (1)

I'm going to be using the digital PPP servos with coreless motors, metal gears, and ball bearings that were for sale in the RCU marketplace. They had a great review written up about them so I'm going to use two on my Clod and one on my LB. They run at 208 oz. in. of torque on 6 volts and 180 oz. in. on 4.8 volts. I'm going to have both of them mounted on the axle. My buddy got a couple for his Wheely King too. Neither one of us has tried them yet(just got them today), but I've seen video of them in action and they look awesome. Best part is they were only $17 a piece + $3.50 shipping. The chassis is designed to be more of a pulling/racing chassis, but I think it should do pretty well at crawling too if I unhook the front and rear sway bars. It has a cantilever setup on it for the rear shocks or a sway bar. I think I'm going to leave the cantilever setup in sway bar mode so that I have better handling and stability when bashing and jumping. Both of the swaybars look as though they'll be pretty easy to disconnect to do some crawling with. Also, the only guy I'd be crawling with is my buddy with the WK and I think any articulation I lack that he has I can make up for with the Clod's enormous size.

hotrodlincoln886

ok got my ebay clodbuster special. whoever owned this thing was a HACK!!!!. the rear left wheel was off and was apparently tried to be jb welded back on. both "servo savers" that are on the tops of the axles were super glued together. but the good thing is that the truck was not run much. the body is actually pretty clean no road rash at all a few little nicks here and there but for 80.00 i think i did pretty well. here's the question are the integy nylon gears better than the stock tamiya gears because i think the rearend is bad. and does anyone know if the little bracket that prevents the axle from rolling under power is made by anyone in aluminium or steel because both of mine are broken and would like something stronger. if anyone has anymore tips or tricks for these trucks please let a new clod owener know. thanks matt

Barber420

My Feedback: (1)

I would either get factory gears, or, you could buy the Integy Gun Metal gears and spool and let me know how they work. I'm thinking about getting some, because I definitely want at least the rear end locked up, but I don't know how well they work. They look like they should be awesome. As for the roll brackets, just make some out of stainless or aluminium, it should be pretty easy. Got any pics?

BrazosRC

There are no listings for the aluminum bumpers on ebay currently. I bought them from a guy with ebay handle of pezhead12554.

I am sorry but I don't have other contact info other than his address, which I can PM if desired but he may not want me to post...

Does anyone think longer shocks are the answer? If not, I may have to scratch this mod or just drive it until a large jump breaks my servos off...

Lunchboxer

Barber420, keep us posted w/ those servos.. see if they are any good!!

hotrodlincoln886

here ya go

Lunchboxer

Time to get some new axle part tree!! And you will be in action in no time!!

Silly how people think that glue might hold it, ha! I mean, it is a monster truck, man!!

hotrodlincoln886

so what do you guys think pretty good deal for 80.00 dollars. ooops forgot one.

Lunchboxer

Not bad.. I like the old shell / sticker set better!!

I'd reverse those shocks, though.. they are upside down right now.. ha! But you are probably gonna change them out to oil shocks anyway...

NOSInjected00GT

hey everyone. this is my first post in a long time. i went thu all of this clod thread as well as the LunchBox thread. Ive had several tamia vehicles and love them. they just dont break. either way after looking at all the pics of the nice clods on here i want to put mine back together. i dont remember when i got it but its the older one. i wanna say late 90's. it was built all stock and now its in pieces because i wanted to do some upgrades. im going to put on the axle steering on the front and i locked out the rear. im going to see how it handles like that. my parts will be made by myself so they wont be pretty like the ones on LB's clod but they will work. its probably going to keep stock links. i will post pics as i start the assembly process. it does have the kyosho magnetic mayhem motors in it and running the msc for now. ive got an old novak esc thats rated for 6-10 cells so it might work for the 2 motors. i need to look up the specs for it.

Lunchboxer

Nice.. keep us posted! Great to see another vintage Clod being resurrected!!

Here's some pics of a nice looking Clod!

Not so sure about leaving the servo / steering link unprotected, though!

NOSInjected00GT

those are cool pics!
here are the pics of mine as it stands right now. like i said before im making all my own steering stuff so its not gonna be pretty but i figure as long as it works i dont need it to look shiney. there is a pic of the esc i want to use with that truck. it has 12t motor limit @ 6 cells. i dont know how to figure if that will work with my magnetic mayhems with 6 cells??? anybody know how to determine that?? the body has lights in it from YEARS ago. im going to change them and put LED's in there. these do work and put out a pretty good amount of light. many night runs have been made with this thing especially on new years or 4th of july. i like to put fire works in the bed and let them go off as i drive around. dont worry its only those showering things that dont shoot stuff or anything.

oh no pics did not make it. let me try again

NOSInjected00GT

here are the pics i hope

Lunchboxer

The aluminum frame looks pretty nice.. from the outside, it looks stock.. that's how I like it!!

Keep us posted!!

Most likely the ESC won't be able to handle 2 mod motors at the same time if it is designed to handle one 12T motor...

NOSInjected00GT

hmm i didnt wanna hear that... do you know if the tamiya for 2 motors will handle those twin 22T motors? i got the frame idea from lookin at the pics here.

Lunchboxer

The "turn limit" is really just a general guideline...

For example, the Tamiya TEU-101, according to Tamiya, should only handle 27T stock motor.. (silvercan and black can, Sport Tune) But people have been using it for lower turn motor and seems to work okay.. I know friends who run Super Stock (23T) with it.. and some claim that it even works w/ 19T motors.. (maybe in the lighter chassis, with lower gearing, etc.)

Tamiya's dual motor ESC, the TEU-103.. according to Tamiya, is only rated for dual 27T motors.. (Again, silvercans and black cans only) But can it handle those 22T?! I don't know.. my guess is that it will probably do it.. ! (knowing Tamiya) But you'd do it at your own risk..

Those are 550 sized motors, right?? If that's the case, the 540 equivalent will be slightly higher.. (24T?) So maybe it will be okay.. ?! Again, all speculation here..

I say just get a proper dual motor / high voltage ESC (such as the E-Savvy Speed GT, the Traxxas EVX, or the Novak Super Duty) if you want to be sure.. but for sure, those will be extra $$$...

NOSInjected00GT

LB, i dont think the magnetic mayhems are 550 size. they are smaller than the silver cans i had in there. the truck did get faster when i put those in. after a little while i had to replace pinions. i used to drive the truck in the economy mode. it would still go over everything i tried to drive over. now do you think the steering in front only is good enuff to drive the clod around front yard, construction site or do i need to use 4ws?? i was thinkin i could use just a plain standard servo for the rear and use the hi-torq for the front.

Lunchboxer

4WS or not, I wouldn't use any standard servo on the Clod.. (dude, look at the size of them tires.. hee! )

If you don't plan on ever running 14.4V+, then maybe the TEU-103 will power those up.. just maybe..

But if you plan on running high voltage in the future, I'd still recommend spend the money up front and get a proper hi-volt ESC, that you know can handle them motors..

NOSInjected00GT

im thinkin of trying to get some of those servos listed on the rcu home page i beleive. metal gear high torque. i see the esp lift kit has been on back order at tower. anyone know where i can get one asap?? or have the ability to make one ??

Lunchboxer

Since you are planning on making stuff anyway, you can probably just do that rather easily.. they are just aluminum plates that has 4 holes on them...

NOSInjected00GT

i guess i will take a stab at that tomorrow... ill post some pics after i get them kinda done.

Lunchboxer

Of course, if you are feeling lazy, you can always order it directly from ESP...

http://www.esphobby.com/clod.htm

BrazosRC

Okay.... I saw a post somewhere recommending foam inserts for the Clod. They cut them to create jagged edges all the way around. I think they referred to another post for the details...

I just spent an hour going through pages 1-76 and all I saw was page 49, where Duratrax foam inserts were used.


Should I go ahead and do foam inserts? Where do I get them? Anyone know where the post is to explain how to do it?


I have the electronics up and I found spacers for my servos... getting close now... pics coming soon.

NOSInjected00GT

i think on minew when it finally goes back together im going to seal the holes in the rims with some hot glue or silicone and see how the truck runs like that. it will most likely not be very good but i just want to try it out. its only silicone so it is easily reversible.

NOSInjected00GT

can some one please tell me if this will work on my clod WITHOUT having to trim anything off the stock arms???