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  1. #3926
    Lunchboxer's Avatar
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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    What are you trying to find out?! [sm=confused.gif]
    LB | WW2 | TLT | TB02 | DF03 | TEgg | F103GT | TXT | Hornet | Frog | Scalpel | Leo 2A6 | Aeromax | WW1 | Clod | CR-01

  2. #3927

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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    i know that your servo set up you can still run the factory links from the chassis to the axle. on some of the kits i have seen it says they require trimming off the shock mounts

  3. #3928
    Lunchboxer's Avatar
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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    You are right.. that's the reason why I went w/ my setup..

    What setup are you trying to do?
    LB | WW2 | TLT | TB02 | DF03 | TEgg | F103GT | TXT | Hornet | Frog | Scalpel | Leo 2A6 | Aeromax | WW1 | Clod | CR-01

  4. #3929

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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    i want my set up like yours... its stock(ish) and works well i just want something that i can pick up and drive around over stuff and not have to go get it all the time from being stuck in the tall grass or anything like that. i dont want to seem like a copier so ill paint mine a different color.

  5. #3930
    Lunchboxer's Avatar
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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread


    No shame of copying me.... (joke)

    Yeah, keep us posted.. I did my research and came up w/ what I wanted.. doesn't mean it is the best one by a long shot.. but for me, I wanted to keep the stock chassis and suspension setup, so that's the setup I ended up with..

    Been pretty happy with it! It is really a good basher.. you pick up and mess with it and put it away.. you build it right the first time and they don't go bad on ya!!
    LB | WW2 | TLT | TB02 | DF03 | TEgg | F103GT | TXT | Hornet | Frog | Scalpel | Leo 2A6 | Aeromax | WW1 | Clod | CR-01

  6. #3931

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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    I need to build my self an all stock Clod. I have 4 modded Clods, 2 TXT's, Stampede, Juggernaut 2 and a F-350 hi-lift I like the new Chrome version that came out.

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    Armageddon Racing

  7. #3932

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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    LB does yours still have the factory metal axle braces?? the ones that go where the stock plastic bumper would go on the gearbox housing. i dont remember seeing it in the many pics you posted. i still might just get a real hi torque servo and lock down the stock servo savers and run the steering as intended such as dr evil has done. any reason not to??

  8. #3933
    Lunchboxer's Avatar
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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread


    Nice collection of Tamiya monster trucks!! [sm=thumbs_up.gif]


    ORIGINAL: SOILWORK

    I need to build my self an all stock Clod. I have 4 modded Clods, 2 TXT's, Stampede, Juggernaut 2 and a F-350 hi-lift I like the new Chrome version that came out.
    LB | WW2 | TLT | TB02 | DF03 | TEgg | F103GT | TXT | Hornet | Frog | Scalpel | Leo 2A6 | Aeromax | WW1 | Clod | CR-01

  9. #3934
    Lunchboxer's Avatar
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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread


    Yes, my setup retains the factory metal braces on both sides...

    Any reasons not to keep the stock steering setup? Try it and let us know.. I ditched it after running it for about 5 minutes, but that's just me.. I didn't have aftermarket parts to help with the stock steering setup, so that certainly could be one of the reasons..

    But the way I see is, the stock saver (the crank at the gearbox) is certainly a weakness.. but, to me, the biggest problem is that even when everything is tighten down as much as you can, there is still slope in the system that you can't take out.. for example, the servo is pushing / pulling the rods, and not all the motion is translated to steering.. some moves the suspension instead, for example.. and that you simply can't take out.. unless you eliminate the rod that goes between the chassis and the gearbox..

    Anyway.. like I said, probably works okay, but I just didn't want to deal with it..



    ORIGINAL: NOSInjected00GT

    LB does yours still have the factory metal axle braces?? the ones that go where the stock plastic bumper would go on the gearbox housing. i dont remember seeing it in the many pics you posted. i still might just get a real hi torque servo and lock down the stock servo savers and run the steering as intended such as dr evil has done. any reason not to??
    LB | WW2 | TLT | TB02 | DF03 | TEgg | F103GT | TXT | Hornet | Frog | Scalpel | Leo 2A6 | Aeromax | WW1 | Clod | CR-01

  10. #3935

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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    Here are some updated pics of my Clod build up. So far I have the stock axles assembled and filled with 6X12 and 5X8 Boca bearings. The chassis is an EBR(Eric Beach Racing) racing frame that's been modified and shown a little TLC as far as cleaning it up for looks goes. The body mounts are CPE(Crawford Performance Engineering) along with the inner axle stiffeners that were used for strengthening purposes, but also as drilling templates to mount the lower links. For now I'm going to leave the stock silver cans in it, but they will need to be changed out for mod motors since the can hits the links at full flex. I should have my Thunder Tech Racing steering, skidplate, and servo mount kit for the front axle on Wednesday. I will be buying another Thunder Tech steering kit soon so I have 4WS working. I'm either going to buy a Traxxas EVX-2 or Novak Super Duty ESC. Anybody have any preferences of one of those ESC's over the other? I already have two PPP 208 oz. in. heavy duty servos. I hope to have my body painted in the next week or two. I need to get to the LHS for paint before I can do it. It's an F-650 REVO 3.3 body. I'm making a custom polycarbonate tray for all of the electronics. I hope to have it as a rolling chassis, accept for shocks and springs, by this Wednesday. I'm still not sure exactly what I'm going to use for shocks, I still need to take some measurements and figure out what I think will fit the best. Losi .6 shocks are supposed to work well. That's all so far. I'll post more pics up after I get the shocks and steering installed. Keep in mind, I'm still in the mock up phase. I'm going to strip all of this back apart and use all hex hardware and do my final clean up and paint job on the frame. Hopefully I'll be doing this sooner than later; it's killing me to not be able to drive this thing!!![:@]

    Does anyone know if I have to buy a reverse rotation motor for this thing? I was looking at how the axles are mounted and it doesn't appear to need any reverse rotation motor. Plus, neither motor is listed as a reverse rotation in the manual or on the can so I assume two regular 19T mod motors would probably work well, right? The only 19T motors I can find with adjustable timing cost about $45+ and I would rather spend $25 - 30 on a motor since I have to buy two.
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    EdingerRC10/(4)RC10/RC10T/RC10T2/RC10GT/RC10LGra./RC18T/MGT8.0/Vintage LB/New LB/NIB Clodbuster/Custom SuperClod/TC6/DM-1Pro

  11. #3936

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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    Thanks!!

    That EBR tuber is coming along very nicely. Here are some pics of my EBR. Iam using two LRP V10 17turn doubles wired in parallel to a Novak Rooster reversible ESC and a Hitec 645 servo up front.

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    Armageddon Racing

  12. #3937
    Lunchboxer's Avatar
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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    Yeah, need some reversible motors.. (well, one.. ha!)

    Looks great so far!!
    LB | WW2 | TLT | TB02 | DF03 | TEgg | F103GT | TXT | Hornet | Frog | Scalpel | Leo 2A6 | Aeromax | WW1 | Clod | CR-01

  13. #3938

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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    I would use the novak over the evx myself. As far as motors go, if there are clearance issues and you can't go with something like the s-600 electrifly, maybe you could use soemthing like a 19 turn trinity acornite? These usually are around 30 bucks I think. That's a cool looking chassis btw!

  14. #3939

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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    Most of the 19 turn motors have locked timing. If you need to reverse the rotation on the motor , it has to be an adjustable timing motor if using dual motors. Timing has to be set at zero degrees before you can reverse polarity or you can use a reverse rotation motor such as the titan reverse rotation.
    Armageddon Racing

  15. #3940

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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    Yeah most are locked because they are used for spec racing etc. The speed gems line has adjustable timing, they even having markings so you know you are at zero etc, unlike alot of the others which have just a mark and you have to guess. I can see running a 19 turn or maybe 17 turn in these things, does anyone go any further than that? LOL seems like it would be a handful...

  16. #3941
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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    Man, I havent been around in a long while, but these clodbusters never get old They sure are sweet old trucks, and they are the original tough 4wd monster truck in my opinion[8D]

    I dont have one, but maybe one day I will. I have a t-maxx that I have converted to electric though. I think I am going to lock the axles, and a few other things, but I have a couple questions for you guys...

    How much can a couple of new or good used stock clodbuster motors be picked up for? Also, do these run off of just one 7.2v battery? And also, I have a Novak 15t reversible ESC. Will 2 clod motors be too much for it, or will they be ok? I was thinking that setup would probably work fine, but would like your opinions.

    basically im looking for a little more grunt, and I think the clod motors would work well on my t-maxx. Would I be better off with the 55t lathe motors, or the clod motors for power and runtime?

    Thanks guys!
    - Savage - MGT Pulling Truck - Losi LST2 - Brushless Blitz - RC10GT (getting a 2.5) - Brushless T4 - Sportwerks Mayhem Pro

  17. #3942

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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    I would go wit the Traxxas titan motors, they are good motors for the money and are reliable. The 55 turn motors are good for crawling becuse they are High torque motors, but they are low RPM motors and you will have no speed. If you are looking for a motor for bashing then I would go with a 27 turn or less. Are you looking for speed or longer runtimes because how you wire the motors(in series or in parallel) will have an effect on the ESC.
    Armageddon Racing

  18. #3943
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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    Sorry, i should have clarified a little. Im not going for speed, but Im going to make more of a crawler/puller out of it. I have an electric stampede ill use for the speed runs

    So basically im looking for something that will give me good run times off of a single 7.2v battery, along with lots of torque. 6 or 8mph is plenty. Also, the transmission is 2 speed, so if I want a little speed, I can flip a switch and be in high gear.

    I currently have a single trinity P2K 27t motor on it. Run times are pretty good, and power is also pretty good, but i could always use a little more
    - Savage - MGT Pulling Truck - Losi LST2 - Brushless Blitz - RC10GT (getting a 2.5) - Brushless T4 - Sportwerks Mayhem Pro

  19. #3944

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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    The Novak fiftyfive is a good choice.

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTJD7&P=7



    Also here is a guide on how to wire your motors


    http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/h...ors/index.html
    Armageddon Racing

  20. #3945
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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    Thanks a lot for the links!

    It looks like I could buy another P2K, and run it in series and be plenty safe with plenty of power. I may do that, or I may change over to 55t motors and run paralell, not sure which would be best.

    What about the axial 55t motors? Are they any good? They are quite a bit cheaper

    Thanks!

    Eric
    - Savage - MGT Pulling Truck - Losi LST2 - Brushless Blitz - RC10GT (getting a 2.5) - Brushless T4 - Sportwerks Mayhem Pro

  21. #3946

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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    I am not familliar with the Axial motors, so I can not coment on them. I would recommend that you wire the motors in parallel if you are going to be crawling.
    Armageddon Racing

  22. #3947

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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    How does yours crawl/flex without the cantilever and front swaybar? I haven't gone as far with mine as to unhook and disassemble them so I'm not sure exactly how much more flex the EBR frame gets without them. Quite frankly I was surprised with how much flex I can make it get with the swaybars installed.

    As for motors, if I have to get one with adjustable timing to solve the reverse rotation issue, then I was already figuring on 19T Trinity Acornite motors as they seemed to be the cheapest and Trinity is a name I trust. Aren't the Acornite motors single wind though? It seems like a double or triple wind would be the best in the Clod for some better torque. Does anyone have experience with 19T motors in a Clod? I was thinking it would be a happy medium for bashing, jumping, racing, and crawling. I don't want my Clod to be slow, because it will probably be used for racing and bashing about 75% of the time, but I don't want it too fast either so I can still do some crawling with my buddy and his Wheely King(I probably will buy some 35-45T motors in the future specifically for crawling, but that's WAY down on the list). If anyone thinks of anything else I should do or be considering please let me know. This is my first Custom Clod build and it's all going as well or better than I expected thus far, but I am still a rookie at them.
    EdingerRC10/(4)RC10/RC10T/RC10T2/RC10GT/RC10LGra./RC18T/MGT8.0/Vintage LB/New LB/NIB Clodbuster/Custom SuperClod/TC6/DM-1Pro

  23. #3948

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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    My chassis seems ok without the swaybars. I am running the shocks a little stiffer to compesate. I am using these motors in mine.

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLRE6


    The only problem with this chassis is the clearance between the links and the motors, there is very little room for the links to get by the motors. Make sure the motor is short enough to allow clearance.
    Armageddon Racing

  24. #3949

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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    I noticed immediately the motor hitting the link issue with my silvercans. I'm hoping that an open endbell mod motor will remedy this for the most part. I guess if it doesn't I can always make my own top links. I've also been thinking about triangulating the top links and attatching them at the top center of the axle. I don't know if you've looked into this, but it looks like it should work perfect. How fast does your Clod go with the 17T motors? Are you running stock gearing? Parallel or series wiring? What size battery(s) are you running to acheive those speeds? Also, can you post some pics of your EBR Clod at full flex for me so I can see the difference between with and without sway bar flex? Thanks.
    EdingerRC10/(4)RC10/RC10T/RC10T2/RC10GT/RC10LGra./RC18T/MGT8.0/Vintage LB/New LB/NIB Clodbuster/Custom SuperClod/TC6/DM-1Pro

  25. #3950

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    RE: Super Clod Buster Build-up Thread

    Mounting the links to the top of the axles will not work with this chassis I have been there and tried it. The links hit the axles. Looking at the chassis, you could try to mount the links from the shock mounting holes to the top of the axle.But the links would still hit the cross braces on the chassis. I have my motors wired in parallel using one of these

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPTT6


    I am using a 4200mah battery and the speeds are good for what I am using it for, probably around 30 mph.


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