Eman77

You raise a good question - I have the MM 5700 (pretty new to it), and only have a touch of cogging at initial throttle on my first run with it....but only some of the time. I'm still tweaking the settings, though (have to get out there for run #2). To be honest, it's not a big deal - I'm just bashing. But I do get picky, and I can see how it can be annoying. By comparison, before I went to an FM radio (pre-MM), I had glitching on and off so bad that the occasional cogging is nothing in comparison to me. So maybe part of it is what you're used to putting up with.

I've read posts of people with cogging issues....and many others of folks stating "I have no issue". Makes you wonder if the folks in the 2nd group just don't notice enough to care, or if they honestly have NO cogging at all.

At any rate, I guess one could argue that the adjustability of the MM is great for folks who want more wheelspin, less wheelspin, braking adjustments, etc. If you have no cogging to begin with, this allows you a lot to play with to tweak the driving characteristics.

But yeah - if you have cogging issues and you have to tone the MM down so much to avoid it (rendering the other settings useless), it's rather silly.

As you've said here and there before, Inverted, you tend to get what you pay for. I, for one, was willing to put up with potential cogging that I can solve by tweaking to save a lot of $$ over the Novak equivalent. Higher quality and priced motors weren't in my $$ range, so I had to overlook them.

RURC

I dont have any cogging issues because the entire car is designed as a system. I dont just stick a motor in there and hope for the best. I take each section and design it to work with the intended overall complete car in the end. It can be as simple as a poor connection. Or as difficult as proper gearing. In my personal cars I have only one car (out of 25 brushless cars) with any type of cogging issue. When I put a MM controller in it it goes away but the controller and the motor dont really like each other in that application and noone makes a varity of pinions or spur gears with a 1.0mm pitch so I live with it cogging with a BK Warrior esc in it since the parts do not exist to fully fix it. I will say that the smoothist motors with the MM controller are the Neu motors.

You will most likely need to play with pinions and settings. You will need to take into account every aspect of the car, weight, tire size, wires, connectors, etc. There is not one all around fix. I tend to agree with Patrick. Their system without sensors is the best out that I have used, and I have used almost all. Vert if you are going to insist on pooping on the MM please at least get one so you can speak from experance. I have Schulze, Quark, BK, Geniss, Align, MGM Compro, Hacker, Aveox and a few others that most have never heard of. So at least I try them before I spout off on them.

I am truely sorry that you are haveing cogging issues. But you assertion that the batteries are pleanty is not the way to fix this. Look at everything and expect anything. It could be a problem in the transmission. You just never know.

mattnin

RURC, I have had the same cogging issues and I have been playing with many different pinions, from 12-18t pinion in a MF2, well within the gearing of the MM 5700. I am using the stock wires soldered together ditching the stock bullet connectors so I can get the lowest resistance. I am using deans, IB3800s balanced and matched, spektrum pro tx and rx w/ glitch buster cap. Also, during the stuttering, I am not losing steering. All wires are twisted and braided.

Also, I take weight very seriously, this truck is balanced very well, almost as good as a TC.

None of this system is out of spec. I can't play with wheel sizes or tire sizes as everything is truck stock. So what is the problem? I quoted my ESC settings. I really do want to fix this problem, I am not about to give up on the MM. I have a feeling it is a bad motor or ESC? I don't know.

jaofos

OK I notice a couple of things that could help:

1) Flip your battery around - There is LOTS of power coming through those wires at the end of the battery, and they are less than an inch away from your RX! That = interference. Flip the battery around so the wires are as close to the ESC as possible.

2) Move the wires going from the ESC to the RX and from the servo to the RX to the right side of the chassis (with the truck facing you). Don't leave excess wire dangling, tie it all down along one side of the chassis, preferrably the opposide side from where the antenna wire is coming out of your RX.

3) Braid the wires between the ESC and motor. I braided each set and zip tied them seperately so even when I disconnect the motor from the ESC all the wires stay braided.

From what I've experienced with my Mamba system, you don't have to program the ESC to get rid of cogging. It's all about proper wire management and reducing the interference reaching your RX.

RURC

I will try to work something up for you tonight at home.

FYI the solder in your wire connection has more sesistance than the schulze connectors you removed

-Inverted-

I never said they were bad, I was questioning the tuning ability in comparison with cogging issues.
I can't try them all because I am poor.

However I had cogging issues with my Mamba 6800. My solution - got a Quark and no more problems.
This is not the best option for most, but all I could do at the time. Now with firmware updates and what not maybe it has changed, and maybe I will pick up another Mamba 25 system to try as I have 3 cars on stock sitting around here.

Maybe I will try the Max soon, however I am interested in the Tekin system just to try something new. Tons have the MM and like it.

jaofos

There appears to be two different sets of cogging issues with the MM set.

Some people see cogging when starting from a dead stop while the truck is closer to them, and see improvement by adjusting start power , throttle curve, etc. I'm thinking these people might be suffering from the "crappy battery" cogging syndrome, where the motor isn't getting the power it wants to get goin. Good batteries and connectors are more likely to help in situations like these.

Others, such as myself, saw cogging when starting from a dead stop while the truck is quite a distance away, this is more than likely due to interference between the TX/RX. Re-arranging electronics and good wire routing is a good solution to these issues, as well as switching to a good FM / 2.4ghz radio setup.

I dunno, just my thoughts, someone write up a good FAQ on MM cogging! :P

Getrdone

Thanks for all your help. I will try to rearrange my wires this evening. Last night I changed the punch setting to 100% and it seemed to help a little, but there is still some hesitation when starting from a stop. If I gun it, then it doesn't do it, but I don't always want to gun it. It's much worse after going in reverse. I don't have any cogging if I keep the truck rolling forwards all the time. This is definitly something I can live with, but if it's possible to eliminate it I really want to. Last night I GPS'd it at 37 mph with 14/87 gearing, but my street curves so I can't really get up to top speed. I like the power I'm seeing. I'm looking forward to finding a nice open area to see what she's really capable of.

RURC

Dose your radio have a throttle ramp setting? If so try turning this off and useing the MM throttle ramp. If this dose not work reverse it and set the MM to factory and use the radio settings. I have used both to fix cars for others. I have my 1/8 on road racer with the throttle ramp on the radio. Not because of cogging but so I can adjust it on the fly. And my converted Jato and my Tenth Technology 10X useing the throttle up on the MM. Also not because of cogging issues I just know what I wanted from them. But I have fixed a few Traxxas and Assoicated with this fix. I will also inform that I only have one Castle motor, a 5700 (running on a BK esc). I like the MM but the motors could be better. Then they would cost more. I really like the Neu motors and the Pletts a lot.

Off subject but Vert do you know of a good outrunner (these are up your alley)in the 1800 to 2000 watt area with a kv of 800 to 1000 rpm. I am finding several 1500 watt motors but I really need more. 2 x 2000 watts would work nicely for an inhouse project. Also vert I have started my new venture "3 Phase Racing" and the web site should be ready in a few weeks. First parts will be to upgrade to the 100 mph Schumacher GTRe. When I put it back together (blowover at 100 something, dont ask how bad)I will have a thread on it as well as a magizine article.

-Inverted-

The Plettenberg Terminator, Predator, and Xtra 30-Evo are some powerful outrunners.

hands without shadows

I'm interested, what kinda project? I'm thinking about that buggy conversion you wanted to do way way back with independant front and rear motors, Im gonna go search for it because I dont think I ever looked at it again after the 1st time.

Adamg-RCU

rurc, you are going to have trouble finding a motor at those specs. The kV is very high for an outrunner that size. You can't double your voltage and use a 500kV motor? At least then you would have a chance.

BTW, the high-kV outrunners are for helicopters, so look at the helicopter motors and helicopter sites.

Getrdone

I have a Spektrum DX 2.0, so I don't think I have a throttle curve on it. It has EPA, but not throttle curve.

RURC

Yes this the next progression on that same thinking. I am takeing an XTM XLB and twin spinning it. THat buggy worked well but it was way too much for an 1/8 scale car. I ran it a couple of times just to prove some therotical ideas and to get an idea of what would be needed for a larger project. For this 1/6 scale buggy I feel that this will be a perfect complement on it. It is large enouf to allow proper placement of all the componants and batteries. I have bought the XLB and am proceeding with this project. The 1/8 buggy was done with 2 x 800 watt himax outrunners and it was just not practical. Very expensive but not useable for anything but a test mule. I figured that out about 1/2 way through the project. With the weight of this XLB and the rest of the electronics (14.4 volts at 10,000 mah at 20C) 2250 watts electric should be enouf (3 hp) to push this thing a little better then the 3.7 hp nitro motor. 3000 watts should devour it and 4000 will just be off the scale. So, you know me, I would like to be around 3000 watts total thats 1500 each. I know that HiMax has a motor that will work but I was looking for something more efficient and exotic. The nice thing about the HiMax is that they have a twin motor mount already available for their twin concentric outrunner set up I betaed on.

RURC

Vert I am about to make you laugh real hard. Its your avaitar. I just noticed that it was not a windmill but a chopper in cross hairs. I can be real slow at times.

rc10b4_racer

i thought the same lol i feel bad 4 the people with cogging. i use a crappy rtr ae radio and don't ever glitch.

hands without shadows

So RURC, are you going to do a build up thread on this buggy? I would love to see it.

RURC

Coging, for what I have seen, is very rarely a radio gitching issue.

RURC

I really should. I could not do it on the 1/8 twin because of patent issues. But that is in motion now and I can do it here.

mattnin

I thought we were talking about Mamba Max cogging here? I am talking with one of the Mamba engineers by email but I am hopping it is a setting on my end because I want to stop this cogging.

Getrdone

I've just accepted it. The Mamba Max cogs, even with good batteries. It's kind of silly that you have so many options for setup, yet you have to have the perfect settings for it to run decent.

Novak2

Perhaps Patrick del Castillo can pop into this thread and solve your cogging problems....

-Inverted-

That is what I have been saying this whole time.

guver

My Feedback: (325)

I'm glad I don't know what cogging is. I threw mine into the truck in 10 minutes plugged a generic battery pack in and am smiles ever since.

I also drive the truck from the garage to the bashing area and take off very slowly. It is as smooth as any of my brushed motors. How slow do you have to drive to get cogging? Mine is mostly WOT. lol.

Flyojumper

Getrdone, after you've had more time with the MM7700, I'd like to hear from you on how you think it compares to your old novak 4.5r (in all aspects, speed, smoothness, run time, temps, etc...) I'm not sure if you remember me from last year but your posts on your stampede 4.5r offered me very valuable info that solidified my choice of the 4.5r at the time for my buggy.