symbios24

so you stay with nimh and play for 10 minutes.when you don't understand something you say its not safe.team orion revolution is good but its unsafe like the lipo`s[:'(] the boy doesn't know anything about rc he doesn't need to start from the end let him have fun first.

Checkpointracer

I get atleast 15-20 minutes.

symbios24

15 minutes i get 50 minutes with the weakest lipo .seriously if you want more time go to lipo.i have a venom 4600 nimh and last about 12 minutes at full throttle.and if i get my wanderer 20s 6t with that battery it goes like the battery is empty,its your choice no0b123 they are good motors but you don't get any better perfomance just quality.

symbios24

you are going to loose because this not the ordinary lrp v10 its modified for high speed with commutator cut and 6t and endbell sv2.heheh

no0b123

Thanks everyone for your help especially symbios24, I'm almost done! Here are some pics of the new stuff installed, but I have a question about the motor installation. Some solder drooped down thru the motor + and - tabs and is attached to the can underneath the solder tabs. Nothing is soldered together in a way that could make something not turn, or move, but I wanted to make sure if thats ok. Here's some pics, they explain everything. By the way, this TC4 has a 72T Spur gear and 30T Pinion, is that correct gearing for this 9T motor?

Pics:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a8/...MG_0555029.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a8/...MG_0345355.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a8/no0b12345/34535.jpg

no0b123

Ok, something freaky just happened today. I tested my car out today (runs great, car seems to slowly veer off to the right a little), and after about a min. this happened! The wires that were soldered to the motor came DEsoldered and the wiring came off. The car came to a crawl. I immediately shut off the car and disconnected the battery. Everything was cool except the motor (little warm, but could only hold down finger for 4 seconds max on it). Solder splashed on my new ESC heatsink, and the motor was smoking! It smelled like a BBQ, but that may have been small traces of flux.... I really need your help here guys, this car has never given me any luck []

The ESC also wont go into reverse, its like it gives ALL the power to throttle....

Pics:
http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a8/...=IMG_00433.jpg
http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a8/...=IMG_00531.jpg

symbios24

clean the solder from esc with a straight screwdriver.it sems you need a better quality solder like rosin core solder.that motor`s heat is extremely high.it can melt the single motor wires in no time.i melt mine the first time i use this motor but the soldered wires were intact coz they have rosin solder on them.use this wires in the link for the motor not necessary but its the strongest there is.and put a deans on it.about the esc has no reverse you must disable it when you did the calibration.read the manual of the esc on how to enable the reverse.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKX15&P=7

mindwreck

you are having major heat issues. did u regear your car? with such a hot fast motor you needed to gear it down. don't have a tc4 but it seems the 30/72 gearing isn't working out for the motor

no0b123

I'll try using better solder. I guess I need help with the gearing then, because I was using 25/72. So when you say "gear lower", does that mean I should go down to 25/72 again? Or what?