jubnoske08

Does anyone have any experience with this esc? can it really handle 12 turns? if i use a fan (it has thermal cut-off, and i've heard it does that with 12 turn motors)? what about 13 turn motors? i need to get a faster motor to clear the larger jumps at this track i like (right now i'm running stock).

ASSOCIATED_DRIVER

I stayed away from those like the local hobby shop guy recommended. I know they are the cheapest you can get in the market today. I have also heard from other forums that they break easily. So I went with LRP's.

Going with 13T would be much more safer than being maxed out at 12T. But it all depends on other factors too. Depending on the way you drive, the track layout, weight of the car, location and ventilation of the esc, even the time of day you are in the track and the temperature outside. If it gets hot, it will cutt-off to save the esc, and hope it does. I have heard and read that sometimes not all the functions come back after it has cooled off.

From stock motor to 13T has a lot of difference, but from 13T and 12T is not that much of a difference, but to ease up the load a little bit on your dynamite esc, I would recomend the 13T or a little higher like 16T.

That's just my opinion though.

ridgewalker

I don't know about the 12t but i have two Dynamite tazar 15t and i have had them for about 6 months.They run a 15t motor with no problems no overheating unless your gearing is wrong.I have put one of them through hellThis is what i did,I took off the heat sink's and the rubber cover that goes inbetween the alum heat sink and the fet's.Then i soldered a small copper tube in between the fets and soldered each fet to the copper tube,each one and i used a lot of solder it fell down into the circut board but i blew it off fast so it didn't stick.I was trying to make a cooling tube for water to run through for a boat i was tinkering with.Well when it was time to power up i got nothing,turns out that when i soldered the copper tube to all the fets it was causing some kinde of interferance i guese thats why they have ruber isolators for the heat sink.So i had to dremel the solder out with a cut off wheel.Well i got it all off the fets but i kinda cut a little of the metal on the fets but i got the copper tube out and removed all or er most of the solder.I put this beat up Dynamite 15t esc back together and put it in my wheely king and that was a few months ago.Its ben through mud many falls and at least 200 run cycles with zero problems.So the Dynamite Tazar 15t gets two thumbs up for durability and relieability get it and try it out i'll be getting one soon.