mog ruith

phelansa what pinion and spur are you using?
im using 18 or 19 pinion cant remember though and 67t spur wonder if tats a right combination

Phelansa

Sounds about right to me.

I run a modified Alloy motor Mount so that I can adjust my mesh much closer. Right now I am back to a 17/70 combo and the MT style wheels.

mog ruith

so all i need to do now is apply some grease??
im thinking of retiring my df02 and get a new buggy dont know weather a df03 or the db01

Phelansa

Try the grease before you retire the DF02. I just completely fill the diff with Tamiya diff grease and wipe off the excess when I have finished screwing the diff back together.

Oh, clean out any old grease first!

sitruc_bc

I couldn't find a thread on the site that explained all the different types of differentials like spool, one way, ball diffs. I'm curious if anyone has any input about these. Thanks!

J.D.T

the spool takes the place of either the diff case or in the case of the sqaure racing unit it takes the place of the five little gears inside the differential, it is a solid piece of aluminum that the diff outdrive cups go into, when the rear tires are spinning they are always spinning at the same speed, thus no differential, this is great in the rear for bashing around, your handling is diminished to much to run these on higher traction surfaces in the front but for drifting both front and rear lockers are the funnest setup IMO, no loading and unloading of the gears, you simply mash the throttle and all four are spinning, much more smooth and predictable.

A one way was seen as an on road thing for years, it allows a much higher corner carrying speed over a gear diff, these are for the front only of the df 02 as there is no center diff(some center one ways are availabe) it much like a spool disregards difference in wheel speeds and makes the front pull with equal force when under power but disengages when you let off the power allowing for good handling, the drawback is they eliminate the front brakes so your car won't stop as good and will get a little wonky and lock up the tires if you grab a handful.

A ball diff is adjustable to allow you to have the amount of drive you want verses the amount of wheel slip(different wheel speeds) you are going to allow, these are by far the best setup for racing but tend to require more maintenance than most bashers will want to mess with and if they get loose on you kiss $20 goodbye as you will need a new case and balls.

The stock diffs are gear diffs, they allow for incredible differences in wheel speed but as I am sure you have seen will allow all the power to go to one wheel, anytime that one wheel is off the ground it will get all the power and even though another wheel is on the ground the car will get stuck, needless to say we have four wheel drive in the df 02 so this is lessened but more than one I got high centered on something where one front and one rear wheel are in the air and the car was stuck, mashing the gas and balloning the tires up some would get it out other times but not always.

I guess the diff options are just one thing I love about the df 02, you can tune it to your driving style or even make a decent overall basher out of it if you are willing to have spair junk and pop 3 screws you can change the diffs around, I tried them all and ended up with the stock gears in the front and the square racing spool in the rear, I actually keep 2 spools, my one way and ball diffs were sold off to guys who wanted to race there df 02s or to tt01 pavement pounders. I like the handling and braking of the stock front over the one way, the ball diff is better once you find your driving style but I didn't like that I had to babysit it and if it got loose it was worse than stock(and possibley grenaded itself) The spool in the rear is great, its very hard to get stuck with both back wheels off the ground so I can't remember the last time I had to go fetch a car that wasn't even flipped over, places that I used to get stuck with stock front and rear diffs I can almost "rock crawl" over now as both rears a turning and ready to burn.

Hope that helps

sitruc_bc

Yeah d00d, helps a bunch. Thanks for all the info. So the spool diff sounds best for bashing through sand, dirt, mud, whatever. What if I were to use spool diffs in front and rear on dirt, or sand, or grass? You said handling is decreased from the front. Is that on all types of terrain?

J.D.T

one of my funnest bashing days was spools in the front and the rear bashing around a nicely maintained baseball field on the buggy style dirt hawgs (rears all around) the warning track was perfect for speed runs and since it was such an open field flying around and making broad sweeping turn under full 3s mm 5700 power, giggles galore, running the spool in the front all the time may be a little harder on equipment as when you are turning you will get a difference in wheel speed, and something has to give, hopefully its the tire breaking loose rather than a dogbone popping out or some other drivetrain failure(I have seen the diff outdrive cups come unmolded after big power and or heavy bashing) its not like its going to be terrible and not turn at all but it may take a little more getting used to, the faster you go the greater the push factor gets. On the sand it may be the cats meow as its so easy to break traction the slower wheel will just spin and catch up . Like I said I have two but only run it in the rear for general bashing, if I knew I was going mud bogging or drifting I would throw them in but only for single purpuse runs, maybe get two and if you don't like it much you can justify the extra $15 as your "beach setup" lol.

sitruc_bc

Where did you get your spool diffs? I searched towerhobbies.com and tamiyausa.com and couldn't find anything. :S

J.D.T

seems like dinball choked the chicken on us again, they dumped the spool for the drift pack setting kit

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_744_708&products_id=21999&pname=Square%20(#STD-5SP)%20TT01%20Drift%20Setting%20Pack

at $32 don't do this, I get my square racing stuff from a japanese firm called champ rc, they give a discount off the list price I paid 1512 yen for my last locker, the exchange rate right now is around 103:1 meaning it would be about $14.99, the problem is they use ems so you will get hit by shipping of $4-9 for even something this small, the good news its EMS shipping, I get it from Japan to iowa in four days most times, they have smoking prices on tamiya also, the kits are just barely on the edge of worth it as its $35-55 to ship them but tamiya parts are discounted off the list price, the $9.75 chassis from tamiya usa $5.25 each from champ, the $9 a parts tree from tower for under $5, it helps to stock up especially if you have multiple tamiya cars or have some buddies with one. You will need to have a paypal account, they charge you exactly what paypal charges them to make the sale, last time I got a big order it was about $100 cheaper than I could find using ebay/tower/lhs even after a $37 shipping charge, a local guy that wanted a df 03 with cvds, slipper, limited edition smoked cases, carbon fibre towers etc etc paid $354 shipped for what we figured was $540 worth of stuff from US based sourcing. I guess it would be good to let you know I am not a Japanese american, they have english speaking (writing at least) reps so you just shoot the email or order form in english and they advise the costs involved.

http://www.rc-champ.co.jp/Champ_Inte...onal_index.htm

The part number for the sqaure locker is STD 50 H

Here is sqaures df 02 page

http://www.rc-square.com/product/tamiya/ta_df02.htm

you will not see the locker its here on the tt 01 page(trust me it works lol)

http://www.rc-square.com/product/tamiya/ta_tt01.htm

they sell tobee also

http://translate.google.com/translat....ne.jp/~tobee/

I use the hardened steel prop shaft joints 43100 but a couple of my buddies got cvds as well as the hardened steel diff outdrives and have not had any trouble, I use the tamiya cvds so I plan to get their version of the tt 01 hardened diff outdrives to try as the tamiya steels are machined for lightness and I have broke a couple


If you don't have paypal or don't want to get any spairs and just want a couple lockers PM me, we can work something out and I will just order them with an order I plan to do in the next week or two, I got 13 items I am looking at getting so your two tiny lockers would not make a dent in my shipping charges, I would just charge you to ship from iowa to washington, this of course be much slower than just ordering direct.

J.D.T

to clear it up the tamiya cvds for the df 02 use a smaller sized end for the dog bone end so thats why I would need the tt 01 outdrive cups, the tobee, gpm and square cvds can be used with the stock diff outdrive cups, only the tamiya option parts require the usage the tamiya OP790 AKA 53790 hope that helps.

sitruc_bc

How much are we talkin' to get them lockers? I don't need any spares, I'm just running the RS. So yeah, name a price and we'll see what happens!

redraze

I have bent the part on my rs that you bolt the wheels on and broke off the threaded part on another when my car did a 50mph cartwheel and I dunno the part number to get new ones. in the tamiya book it calls them E5 on page 9. Can someone help me?

J.D.T

sitruc, I will pm you later, my laptop is wonky and don't want to let me type in pm mode

redraze-its part # 9005756 now, it was previously known as 0555105 but this has been changed to the 900 series number, $3 part $4 shipping on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Tamiya-Risin...742.m153.l1262

your lhs may be able to help you out also just call with that number

redraze

Thanks J.D.T the 2 loose ones are the ones I need.

J.D.T

pm sent sitruc

sitruc_bc

I just ordered the sidewinder 4600 for my RS. Do I need any special receiver for a brushless system?

Phelansa

Not at all. Your stander reciever will be fine. You might just have to move the reciever and ESC around a bit to get the best possible separation between the two.

J.D.T

sitruc pm sent, let us know your first impressions of the brushless system

sitruc_bc

Since I have to solder my own battery connecter onto the sidewinder ESC, what's the most common tamiya connector found on batteries? I have a duratrax DTX 4200Mah with the tamiya connector, but I don't know if that's considered a large or small connector.

J.D.T

its the "large" one but I would just get some deans from the LHS, you can try the tamiya connectors but they are known to melt from time to time so keep an eye on it.

sitruc_bc

Like the basic bullet connectors on motors?


Nevermind, I found some deans on towerhobbies.

Is there an ideal spur/pinion setup for the sidewinder?

redraze

My rising storm came with a 19 tooth pinion, you are able to go down to 16t with the supplied spur. To go from 19 to 16 you have to rotate the motor one way or the other, the manual will tell you the position where it screws into the motor mount.

J.D.T

what tires are you running citruc? that makes the biggest difference

sitruc_bc

Right now I'm running Proline Dirt Paws on all four corners, but I just purchased some gladiators for the rear and inside job front tires also. I'm not looking for the fastest setup, otherwise I would have purchased a system with higher Kv. I'm just curious if the 70/16 gearing is good for the 4600kv. I don't want to be geared too low or too high.