mercerbeef

my old castle sidewinder 5700 did the same thing. after the race i reprograming it it worked fine then during a race it did the same thing and then fried. i still haven't sent it in yet to see whats wrong, i just picked up a sidewinder with the 4600kvmotor and used it for the rest of the season and it started doing the same as the old one, except it would cog at the end of a 5 min run

bigmd74

really?so theres a chance it may have crapped the bed?whats hpi's warranty on these?can i sen it in?

TheAnalogKid

Check your teansmitter batteries first. Make sure your crystals are nice secure, in the rx and tx. Then try swapping your esc and steering servo plugs in your receiver. You should be able to steer with your trigger and accelerate and brake with steering wheel. If you can't accelerate with your steering wheel, I'd be having a look at your receiver.

bigmd74

receiver is brand new.batteries have a good charge.

Enzyme80

first brand new does not always mean that it is working. Do you have another tx to try? Do you have other crystals you can try? Did you check all of the wires in the car - motor to esc, esc to receiver.

dadon

I have the same thing. But I know when batteries are drained ESC will cut out emmidiately.

BUT!!!! every few seconds motor will allow me to pull throttle and move truck for a metre and then nothing will happen for couple of seconds.
That is if I'm correct hard cut off at 3.0V, soft one is at 3.3V when your car is slowing down. I have this first one.

That is normal with my CC5700.

Are you sure that your battery (in the car) is completely charged????

Let us know if you have resolved the issue.

dadon

I have few pics of my truck after some bashing. it is allready wounded - any ideas how to amended???

Some other pics showing state of my truck just after 1 month of usage.

dadon

Some more pics.

My cheap way of fixing the broken part.

TheAnalogKid

Dadon, try out T-bone's bumper set for the E-FS. I have them on mine and they work very well. Here is a link.

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-RC-Bumper-SET-HPI-E-FIRESTORM-1-10-stadium-NTS_W0QQitemZ350161817121QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_ Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5187454e21&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A13 18|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

I will give you a link to pro-line racing's 2.2" tires list. I have the same tires front and rear, so I can swap them front to back to minimize wear.

http://www.prolineracing.com/c-34-tires.aspx

The part with the screw part broken you will need to buy another part.

Here are some pics of mine too.

dadon

Thanks for that....[8D]

Can you see the difference in performance with such a big tyres??

Do you have problem with tyres?? - coming off the rims (wheel)

redfisher1974

Hey Dadon you must beat the piss outta your storm......Good job.[8D]

73

The truck must have been ran hard, or this was just a unlucky incident. I had my brushed version for maybe 15months now and been on brushless half the time, running it every week. Never broken a arm, and definitely zero breaking at the bulkhead. Could be a loose screw on your truck when that happened, kind of hard to imagine that portion snapping off.

For the time being now, perhaps you can CA the broken piece back, then drill the hole through w a 3.5mm drill bit. Countersunk the bottom of that chassis and use a countersunk screw w nut to secure the top brace.

bigmd74

when my battery gets low it slows down alot,no power and then stops.if i wait 5 seconds it will drive real slow and then stop.thats normally what it does when battery is low.when i had it out the other day it was fast,would wheelie and was running like a truck that had a full battery.then out of nowhere it just stopped.no slowing down just dead.can anyone take notice of the yellow light on the esc when truck is in neutral.mine is a dim yellow.is that supposed to be?

dadon

Guys did you know something about bead lock wheels??? Will they fit Moab 2.2'' or similar????

I'm fed up with contsant gluing tyres to the wheels!!!!!!!![:@]

Opinions welcome

toxotis70

I have exactly the same problem, but i lost my spare parts of bulkhead and servo saver on the run!
I cant understand how they are connected , and the manual isn't very usefull, can you post another foto of the spares i need ?

73

For now, I still think the nose down jumping is not 100% a setup issue. It could be, but most likely driving style/techniques also plays a part.

After building and re-shaping a few jumps for our backyard track, my humble opinion is to have a gentle curve from the ground up, if we're looking for a basic jump. Best is to have a flowing transition all the way from the ground, to the tip/end.
The angle at the final feet will affect jumping, the raised one in the drawing can be called a "kicker". Such jump can cause the car to "float upwards" after launch, and usually require some effort/techinques to keep it level and landing well instead. Without a smooth gradiant, the suspensions react to the sudden change and can mess up the jumping. (But in motocross, such jumps can help a rider gain extra height for that particular jump.)

So if we want a jump to go the distance, we pretty much go for a long "triangle" with gentle curve.
When we want the truck to go high and "big", we add more curve.
Otherwise, we just combine the above and shape the jump according to taste. [8D]

73

Take a look at this page and see if it's of any help.
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7259802/anchors_8577045/mpage_68/key_/anchor/tm.htm#8577045]RC Universe[/link]

COUNTRY CLUB JETTER

I didn't get more than about ten minutes of golf course fun this weekend, before I center-punched a palm tree at about thirty. Broke my steering knuckle, I think that's all I broke. Time for an upgrade, just not sure which ones. Those tires I got hooked up so good on the grass it was unreal, just wish I hadn't smashed the thing so soon.

bigmd74

to bring the nose up on a jump just give it some throttle.if you hit the brake it will nose dive

dadon

that was very helpful!!!!!!

I will get set of bead lock wheels when I will need to change my tyres. 1 month and I will have slicks

redfisher1974

Told you those tires would hook like crazy...One thing about brushless compared to old school RC's is the power and speed make it easy to brake stuff when you run into it....

dadon

Yeah.

my last photos are showing what can happen if you miscalculate a concrete post from distance of 2 metres.[] [:@]

Brushless are killer motors but will last less time on batteries...

COUNTRY CLUB JETTER

Yeah you weren't kiddin'. So, what's the hot setup for some aluminum knuckles? I saw some 'edit' ones back a whole bunch of pages, but I think there was an issue with fitting them with certain kinds of wheels? Gonna order those, a new body, and some paint so I have something to do this week after work [>:]

TheAnalogKid

I made sure they were glued on well and run a 17T pinnion gear, and it wheelies when I want it to. I don't race, so I really wanted more ground clearance more than anything else and the MOABs give easily an extra 10mm.

Enzyme80

I was looking to get the Moabs, still trying to decide between them and the dirt hogs. Also need to get some for the track but haven't been there yet so just need some for bashing. Do they hold up on the street well?