Paron34

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Red How do you like that Nano Tech Battery was thinking of buying 2 of the 70c 130 burst.

redfisher1974

Mine has been good, Runs strong and holds a good balance.

nitro-rob

Red, good to see you again.  I feared the worst.......

nitro-rob

I've noticed ESCs are really coming down in price on ebay lately, especially in auctions.  I got a blur and Q-base for 115 and 90 shipped recently.  The castle versions of those ESCs don't go for much more.  I guess this makes sense since those ESCs have been out for a few years now and the market is likely getting full.

redfisher1974

I was running out of time and had to drop coming on the forums as it was eating up any spare time I had. Congrats on getting the bigger flux.

namewasdallas

Has anyone messed with the pistons inside the shocks yet with the extra ones it came with in the box????

I think there #2-3 inside there and I think im going to switch them to #3 if they are different then that with 30wt all the way around.

Also has anyone messed with the Rear links changing the location from inside to outside. Cause i switch mine up.

Here's a great read for you guys that are done running the storm but want to make some changes over winter to make your truck handle better

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...SetupHints.htm

Peloche

Hi all,

Is there any solution for this issue (on my Savage HP):



Thanks for your help,

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

those look the stocks what i've heard is cut out the pin hole in the hex so it goes across all the way, and get longer pins so you're running a pin/hex style setup...

mine have kinda had the same problem, i just crank on the nuts with a wrench and that seems to do it...

the lug

Peloche

Hi rclugnut10,

Thanks for your help, yes they are the stocks ones, i'm a bit worried avout the 6 "rays" they are bent and on the other wheels they are straight, are they close to their rupture ?

I was thinking to glue the hex for the time being waiting to buy a new set of wheels..?

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

they don't look that bad the rims are made of a really soft plastic which is why the hex is slipping... its up to you... i cracked one of the main spokes last winter, poped it back into place and glued it up and it's been fine since... but i not super concerened about having everything perfect on that truck but thats just me, so long as i don't spin the hex's i'm happy

the lug

Peloche

Ok the lug, i've cut parts of credit card (without number etc ...) and now the hex is "stranded", as i could put only 3 sides of the 6, hex center is not any more the center of the wheel but it could be good enough for bashing , thanks for your help

nitro-rob

I think that rim is going to keep giving you problems. This is the kind of stuff I need to figure out with the flux versus nitro savage, there is so much more power.  I just figured out how to keep the wheels on my nitro savage. 

Peloche

Hi Rob,

Thanks for your answer, i'm still with stock hex, i expect to go with ALUMINUM WHEEL HEX HUB SET 24mm # 102530:



and Baja wheels # 4789 for front and rear:



Stock tyres are # 4462 - 160x86mm and Baja # 4737 are 170x80, could the difference in size affects the HP ?

What do you think ?

Thanks Rob,

namewasdallas

I dont think the 5b stuff will worth on the firestorm and it would be weird. I actually have issues with the hex's slipping they slipped so bad I tore up a set of rims and the metal locking hex's on the truck ! they got rounded right out...  I currently bought new wheels and it came with plastic Non-locking hexs and they press right into the rim and never come back out. They have worked great.





An another note I totoally redid  my entire setup on my truck. I'll give everyone the setup im running to help make your truck race ready.

Front SHock Location.                                            
-Shock Tower- Inside hole
-A Arm- Inside Hole.

-Rear Shock Location

-Shock Tower- Inside Hole
-A Arm- Inside Hole

The reason for mounting the shocks this way is because it makes more dampening and Pack in the shock. Think about it this way, The farther out the bottom of the shock is mounted the easier it will compress because the A-Arm has more leverage on the shock.

Camber Link Rear- 1-B (inside hole/ 2nd hole on Hub) Leave the 2 shims under ball stud.

Camber Link Front- 1-A ( Leave the one shim under ballstud, Also Leave the Caster Block shims just like they are so the caster blocks are in the middle)

Leave the Steering links on the Short Ackerman.

Ride Heigh 30mm, Front 27mm Rear

Shock oil - Losi 27.5wt with 3 hole Pistons.

Shock Springs -
- Front, Team Associated Blue t4.1
- Rear, Team Associated Green t4.1

                       

nitro-rob

I don't think this is intended for a firestorm, its for his flux 2350.  Wrong thread?

Peloche

Yeap namewasdallas it'll be useless to install on Firestorm, Rob is right is for my Savage Flux HP.

namewasdallas

yeah i was gonna say what ya trying to do make a monster truck lol.


I finally got my 77t spur in the mail today, did some speed runs clipped a mail box did another run on the way back to check it over go to hit the brakes and i got nothing its just free coasting im like **** *** now.. Esc came taped and i get home pull the slipper cover off spur gear got toasted melted plastic all over the slipper cover.

I have the worst luck with the 77t spurs idk what it is with them but I can never have one last more then a week. I set the mesh just right the motor didnt  move, I thought the set screw in the pinion backed out cause that happens alot but it didn't so im not sure what exactly happened.

Car was a hand full trying to keep straight at over 50mph on 3s today. I was using this pair of road hawgs are road rage street tires that have serious camber issues from my friend. I would get the motor winding up to half throttle then punch it and the castle stuff is a little twitchy and it would snap the tires loose and kick the back end out and 360 but sometimes i could catch it and keep driving

I really need to order a good 3 cell battery with a higher discharge, im running the turnigy 3s 20c or 25c and this thing puffs up from the motor drawing to much power. So im sure everything would run smoother with a higher discharge. Also does anyone know of any sensored motor's that can run 3s i really want another sensored motor cause once u go sensor you dont go back its so much smoother then sensorless its unreal even if u wanna creep the truck forwards real slow butter smooth unlike sensorless it stutters and crap..

Anyone know if the new Tenshock 4 pole sensored motor in the 5200kv or 5100kv is 3s capable?

nitro-rob

I liked the sensored motors I had but they were very weak compared to sensorless. The truck was very surefooted with it and it handled very well. I hear the new tekin motors are sensored and just as powerful or more powerful than their sensorless counterparts. I don't know a lot about tenshock.

namewasdallas

I've only owned one sensored motor and it's the best motor out for 1/0th 540-550sized motor's, It's the Tekin Pro 4 4600kv 4 pole motor. It's insanely fast and super smooth at low speed and high rpms it winds up like a monster. It spins so freely compared to Castle motor's where there hard to turn over by hand because they dont place the magnets so close to the inside of the can there's a decent gap between the rotor and can unlike castle motor's. I talked a Tekin rep about it but he wouldnt go into anymore detail

Nitro-Rob -I can see why they didnt feel as punchy or fast and its cause they were probly all 2 pole motor's. There's only 2 company's making 4 pole Sensored motor's Tekin Pro4 and the New Tenshock SC411 motor. From what ive herd in the Losi ten-scte fourm on Rctech.com the Tenshock's are like the castle motor's but sensored so there smooth and the higher KV ones are a little faster then the 3800cc.

Here's a link to the Motor. http://builtrc.com/tenshock_sc411_4000_sensored.aspx

I'm going to look into that thunderpower 3s lipo you got.

What front tire's is everyone running outdoor's ?

Im running carver type tires but im thinking about going to a Proline suburb tire for better turning traction and I run the Proline calibars v2 on the rear which work great in soft compound for loose wet traction.

namewasdallas

Im going to post this it relates to tuning your truck and what everything you change effects. It's from my Losi Ten-Scte manual but it applys to every R/C car. I think it will help everyone that isn't sure what each mod you make to your truck will effect.

Shock Location: The Truck has three mounting locations
on the front shock tower. The position can be easily adjusted
by simply moving the top of the shock to another hole. The
standard location works best on most surfaces. Moving the
top of the shock inward a hole will slow steering response
and make the Truck smoother in bumps. The standard
position on the arm is middle, which off ers the best balance.
Running the inside shock location will give the Truck more
steering into the turn and less steering on corner exit. Running
the shock location outside on the front arm will give you less
overall steering into the turn and keep the front end fl atter
through the turn, making the Truck smoother and easier to
drive. This can be used on high-traction surfaces. Keep in mind
as you move the shocks in on the arm this will require internal
limiters to obtain the correct suspension travel. For the inside
location a total of .200-inch limiter works great. Losi sells a
shock spacer set (LOSA5050) that includes .030-inch, .060-inch,
.090-inch and .120-inch spacers.

All of the Camber and Steering linkages feature left and
right-hand threads at either end like a turnbuckle to make
adjustments easy. The side with right-hand threads has a small
groove machined into it. Use the plastic turnbuckle wrench
supplied with the truck to adjust these. Using the righthand
threaded side as your reference: if you turn the link to the
right (clockwise) you will make it shorter. If you turn it to the left
(counterclockwise) you will make it longer.

Static Camber: This refers to the angle of the wheels/tires
relative to the surface (viewed from either the front or back).
Negative camber means that the top of the tire leans in toward
the chassis. Positive camber means the top of the tire leans out,
away from the chassis. Camber can be precisely measured with
after-market camber gauges, sold at a local hobby shop. It can
be measured (roughly) using any square (to the ground) object
by checking the gap between the square edge and the top of
the tire. Testing has shown that 1 degree of negative camber
is best for most track conditions. Increasing negative camber
(in the range of 1-2 degrees) will generally increase steering.
Decreasing negative camber (in the range of 0-1 degree) will
generally decrease steering and the truck will feel easier to
drive as a result. This is, most often, a very critical adjustmen

Inboard Camber Location: The truck has two different
inner locations with vertical adjustment for the front camber
tie rod. In general, the lower or further out the inside position
is, relative to the outside, the more camber gain (total camber
change through the total throw of the suspension) is present.
This is an adjustment that is diffi cult to make a generic
statement as it can have slightly diff erent results in various
conditions. The following is a summary of how this adjustment
will usually impact the handling of the truck. A longer front
camber link will usually make the truck feel stiff er. This will
help keep the Truck flatter with less roll, but can make the
truck handle worse in bumpy conditions. It also will make
the truck easier to drive. A shorter front camber link will
result in more front end roll, which will provide more steering
on tighter turns with the loss of some stability. You will also lose
some high-speed steering but might gain some more steering
response. Too short of a front link may make the truck feel
“twitchy” or “wandery” meaning that it may be difficult to drive
straight at high speed.

Toe-In/Out: This is the parallel relationship of the front tires to
one another. Toe-in/out adjustments are made by changing the
overall length of the steering tie rods. Toe-in (the front of the
tires point inward, to a point in front of the front axle) will make
the Truck react a little slower, but have more steering from
the middle of the turn, out. The opposite is true with toe-out
(the front of the tires point outward, coming to a point behind
the front axle), the Truck will turn into the corner better but
with a decrease in steering from the middle of the turn, out.
Toe-in will help the Truck to “track” better on long straight
high-speed runs, where toe-out has a tendency to make the
Truck wander. We recommend to run between 0-degree of
toe-in/out to 1 degree of toe-in.

Diff erentials: You can switch to oil. Thinner front
oil increases off -power steering, but if the oil is too thin the
steering will become grabby and inconsistent. Thicker front
diff erential oil increases off -power stability and increases onpower
steering. Thinner center diff erential has less forward
drive, can unload more under acceleration and is easier to drive
on rough and slick tracks. Thicker center diff erential has more
acceleration, increases on-power steering, and less off -power
steering. Thinner rear diff erential has more cornering traction
and increases steering in the middle of the turn. Thicker rear
diff erential has less steering in

namewasdallas

Tuning the Rear End of the Truck

Shock Location: Moving the shocks out on the arm will result
in less forward traction and let the Truck make more of
an arc through the exit of the turn. In general, when changing
shock locations on the arm, it will be necessary to go down one
spring rate when moving out on the arm.

Static Camber: Having the same definition as for the front end
and measured in the same fashion, rear camber can also be a
critical tuning feature. Testing has shown that running a small
amount of negative camber (.5-1 degree) is best. Increasing
negative rear camber (in the range of 1.5-3 degrees) will
increase stability and traction in corners, but decrease high speed
stability. Decreasing rear camber (in the range of 0-1.5
degrees) will decrease stability and traction in corners, but will
increase high-speed stability.

Inboard Camber Location: The Truck has two inner
camber link locations. These locations work in the same
fashion and have the same effect as noted for the front. You
will find that you will get more noticeable changes with the
outer locations in the hub. In general the upper hole will make
the Truck more stable and keep the front end flatter. This
works well on higher traction surfaces. The lower location will
make the steering more aggressive which works well on lower
traction surfaces. This can be good in some conditions but can
also make the Truck difficult to drive in others.

Outboard Camber Location: Running the camber link in the
inside position on the hub will generate more rotation entering
a turn, but decrease steering on exit. Running the camber link
in the furthest outer position on the hub will generate more
stability entering a turn and increase steering on exit.

Toe-In: Having the same definition as for the front end, the
toe-in can be adjusted on the Truck with the rear hubs. The
stock toe-in is 3 degrees of inboard per side and 0 degrees in
the hub. Increasing rear toe-in will increase forward traction
and initial steering, but reduce straightaway speed. Decreasing
rear toe-in will decrease forward traction and “free-up” the Truck.
Less toe-in can be used to gain top speed.

Ride Height: This is the height of the chassis in relation to the
surface. It is an adjustment that affects the way your Truck
jumps, turns and goes through bumps. To check the
ride height, drop one end (front or rear) of the Truck from
about a 5 to 6-inch height onto a fl at surface. Once the Truck
settles into a position, check the height of that end of the
Truck in relationship to the surface. To raise the ride height,
lower the shock adjuster nuts on the shock evenly on the end
(front or rear) of the Truck that you are working on. To lower
the ride height, raise the shock adjuster nuts. Both left and right
nuts should be adjusted evenly.


All edited by namewasdallas

nitro-rob

The comparison was 2-pole versus 2-pole.  I think sensored has come further recently.  I hear the tekin motors are really strong.  I get the sense that they are the strongest sensored motors and the big deal about them is that finally match or slightly exceed sensorless power.   URC had a review on the 4000 it recently. 

Peloche

Thanks for all these precious infos namewasdallas, will be hard to apply all for myself ...

Back to E-Firestorm i just discovered that there is a lot of play on the front left arm:





it's about 3 mm at the end of the arm

i opened and:



What to do ? thanks all,

nitro-rob

Buy the RPM set, its great.

namewasdallas

replace the arm or drive it till it brakes, there's no fixing something like that. I would personally buy new front A Arms then keep the other 2 as back ups.

I notice play where the the steering buckles connect to the ackerman bar in the steering. It's side to side play and there isnt anything I can do about it unless I order the Strc aluminum steering rack.

Does anyone run that rack and if so how is it ? Is there bearing's for it or bushing's?

I really want to switch to bearings