Going Slow is The Way To Go - Tamiya CR-01 Resource Thread!
#3581
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#3584
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Ok here is some pictures, new front and rear alloy hubs, alloy cross beams, alloy engine mount, alloy steering servo bed, metal drive shafts, stainless screw kit, alloy front bull bar mount and new tyres proline flat irons super happy with those tyres. All the alloy gear is STRC except the cross beams there 3racing. Next I am deciding if to get the full alloy axle housings not sure but if I do I post it up cheers.
#3589
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Joining The CR-01 Club
Hello everyone, I have made it up to page 122 reading so far. But I needed to skip a head and tell you how I have bought my way into the CR-01 club. Normally I would not buy an assembled rc but I stumbled upon this deal on Ebay that I could not pass up. Well it arrived today. It is the '73 Bronco built buy a person in Hawaii. They stated that they just finished it and it has never actually run.
So what made it such a deal:
Nicely painted body.
Light kit: head lights, tail lights, Side marker lights.
The body mounts to the frame using magnets. So no holes in the body. The main issue I see with this type of mounting is the body has to be manually aligned to the frame after it is mounted.
It has multiple Integy parts on the frame (bling). The side frame pieces where the four link bars mount. The most rear upper plate. The plate that the motor and center gear assembly mount to. Housing for the center gear housing The shock swivel links.
Aftermarket shocks. Name unknown.
Gold color barrel springs. Plus a bag with white and black barrel shocks.
Stock motor.
All of the plastic pieces.
Extra body still sealed.
Everything plus shipping was less than $350. Now you know why I decided to buy built.
Initial view of the Integy shock swivel links - SLOPPY as S**t.
I plan on using my Futaba double stick 2.4 radio. Need a reciever, ESC, and servos.
Based on my readings (thank you every one that has posted in this thread) I am considering a Novak Rooster ESC and maybe staying stock or a 45T motor. Can not forget the Futaba bent lower links.
Beyond that only funds and time will tell.
Just so I do not miss out on all of the fun I plan on breaking everything apart for a full inspection.
Have a great evening.
Quick update: I just got done shopping and I now own a Tamiya CR Tuned motor 35T, Navak Rooster, and both front and rear bent lower arms.
So what made it such a deal:
Nicely painted body.
Light kit: head lights, tail lights, Side marker lights.
The body mounts to the frame using magnets. So no holes in the body. The main issue I see with this type of mounting is the body has to be manually aligned to the frame after it is mounted.
It has multiple Integy parts on the frame (bling). The side frame pieces where the four link bars mount. The most rear upper plate. The plate that the motor and center gear assembly mount to. Housing for the center gear housing The shock swivel links.
Aftermarket shocks. Name unknown.
Gold color barrel springs. Plus a bag with white and black barrel shocks.
Stock motor.
All of the plastic pieces.
Extra body still sealed.
Everything plus shipping was less than $350. Now you know why I decided to buy built.
Initial view of the Integy shock swivel links - SLOPPY as S**t.
I plan on using my Futaba double stick 2.4 radio. Need a reciever, ESC, and servos.
Based on my readings (thank you every one that has posted in this thread) I am considering a Novak Rooster ESC and maybe staying stock or a 45T motor. Can not forget the Futaba bent lower links.
Beyond that only funds and time will tell.
Just so I do not miss out on all of the fun I plan on breaking everything apart for a full inspection.
Have a great evening.
Quick update: I just got done shopping and I now own a Tamiya CR Tuned motor 35T, Navak Rooster, and both front and rear bent lower arms.
Last edited by firedogs2x; 05-15-2014 at 10:11 PM.
#3591
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The slop in the stock cantilever arms can be fixed but it doesn't look like the Integy ones can. The stock ones have holes that you can run a small ziptie through to lash the two together and make them move as one instead of the slop between them. Looks like the only way of fixing the Integy ones is if you epoxy them at the pivot point but then its permanent.
#3593
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Thanks everyone for the nice words.
860Crawler: I am not sure how I will fix that issue. I plan on tearing it all down and taking a real good look at them.
Just got done reading the whole thread and WOW some amazing work has been done on this platform. I really liked the FJ with the full interior.
Thanks again to everyone and sorry to see things have died down so much on this thread.
860Crawler: I am not sure how I will fix that issue. I plan on tearing it all down and taking a real good look at them.
Just got done reading the whole thread and WOW some amazing work has been done on this platform. I really liked the FJ with the full interior.
Thanks again to everyone and sorry to see things have died down so much on this thread.
#3595
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Glad to hear that 860Crawler. By the way I was looking for your light bar at the company you said you bought it from. They no longer have the version like yours were each light has a guard. It is a shame cause I like how that looks.
So I just got done taking every thing apart. It always amazes me how things are designed, made, and assembled. I guess that is why I like to design things for a living.
Let me start off and say a tiny apology to Integy. Their links are sloppy but not as bad as I stated. It seems that the only one I checked also was missing a bearing which made it worse. I tried a stock plastic piece and it had very minimum amount of slop.
I am sorry to say that the person who put this together did not really know how to assemble or paid little attention to details. Like putting grease in the diffs. There is a tiny smear of grease in the center trans. It is hard to tell 100% but it looked like most screws did not get Locktite put on them. And one of the c-clips inside one of the diffs was not popped in all the way. And some screws were not tightened. The rear spring buckets are suppose to have three screws and nuts holding it to the frame. One side had two screws positioned horizontal to each other. And on the opposite side the two screws were positioned vertically to each other. I am not totally trying to put this person down but I am stating that buyer beware along with get to know your machine even if that means taking it all apart and putting it all back together.
Question: When I got the differentials separated from the main frame I noticed that the springs were not vertically aligned (see photo). Is this correct? I could see that the spring buckets on the diffs were causing the misalignment but when I got every thing apart they looked perfectly mirrored parts. When I go to assemble those I am going to pay close attention to that area.
Have a good weekend.
I purchased a new Boca Bearing for the missing one. Purchase a Futaba 6 channel reciever and one high torque Futaba servo. So what am I going to do with 6 channels? Lights, ESC, Steering (maybe the rear later), winch (maybe later), and wow one channel left for whatever comes around.
So I just got done taking every thing apart. It always amazes me how things are designed, made, and assembled. I guess that is why I like to design things for a living.
Let me start off and say a tiny apology to Integy. Their links are sloppy but not as bad as I stated. It seems that the only one I checked also was missing a bearing which made it worse. I tried a stock plastic piece and it had very minimum amount of slop.
I am sorry to say that the person who put this together did not really know how to assemble or paid little attention to details. Like putting grease in the diffs. There is a tiny smear of grease in the center trans. It is hard to tell 100% but it looked like most screws did not get Locktite put on them. And one of the c-clips inside one of the diffs was not popped in all the way. And some screws were not tightened. The rear spring buckets are suppose to have three screws and nuts holding it to the frame. One side had two screws positioned horizontal to each other. And on the opposite side the two screws were positioned vertically to each other. I am not totally trying to put this person down but I am stating that buyer beware along with get to know your machine even if that means taking it all apart and putting it all back together.
Question: When I got the differentials separated from the main frame I noticed that the springs were not vertically aligned (see photo). Is this correct? I could see that the spring buckets on the diffs were causing the misalignment but when I got every thing apart they looked perfectly mirrored parts. When I go to assemble those I am going to pay close attention to that area.
Have a good weekend.
I purchased a new Boca Bearing for the missing one. Purchase a Futaba 6 channel reciever and one high torque Futaba servo. So what am I going to do with 6 channels? Lights, ESC, Steering (maybe the rear later), winch (maybe later), and wow one channel left for whatever comes around.
Last edited by firedogs2x; 05-17-2014 at 02:21 PM. Reason: Add information
#3596
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I can't recall if mine looked like that when its off the truck. Just looking at it assembled, it does appear that one spring perch is at a slight angle to the other which would make that effect when its apart.
Not that it matters, but I also see he did not lock out the rear axle the way its shown in the manual either. Must have had spare parts around to make the two short turnbuckles as opposed to the one long rod between the two knuckles and one short to lock it to the axle.
Not that it matters, but I also see he did not lock out the rear axle the way its shown in the manual either. Must have had spare parts around to make the two short turnbuckles as opposed to the one long rod between the two knuckles and one short to lock it to the axle.
#3597
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Yeah I think one of the spring saddles are mounted wrong.
If you have some screws missing best thing I can recommend is a stainless screw kit one of the best upgrades I have done and I also still use my CR-01 cheers.
If you have some screws missing best thing I can recommend is a stainless screw kit one of the best upgrades I have done and I also still use my CR-01 cheers.
#3598
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I will keep you informed on my progress of reassembly.
Have a good evening.
#3600
Thread Starter
That's why it is more fun to build the kit from the ground up, so you know you did it right..
But looks like you will take care of all the little mistakes that the previous owner made!!
But looks like you will take care of all the little mistakes that the previous owner made!!