malice23

could be the rims but even if you check that tamiya site where they tell you how to convert a db01 into a full blown race machine...they tell you to use limiters to shorten travel due to the shocks length..I actually had to use 3 limiters to stop the rubbing, I actually thought it was the diffs but it was the arms rubbing on the interior of the rear rim. My links have been filed down a bit since that happened but they are still functional. Ever since I used the atomic carbon towers...problem solved and i have full travel. I would be careful about using the stock towers and the trf dampers. You wanna be able to utilize all the holes, not just the few you are allowed to.

powergyser

hey folks


i recently assembled my very first durga. its my first experience with R/C and iwas very pleased that it turned out great. i also bought some Zeppin Racing 2300mAh 6.6V LiFe batteries from rc mushroom. i run the durga stock except that i use the LRP super reverse digital esc and the sport tuned motor. my runtime was amazing. unbelievable 25 min on full throttle. not once did i let off the throttle. i can only recommed these batteries to anyone and they are super cheap to at 23 usd. have fun driving.


cheers

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

I have had the same problem as well. I had to race my qualifying heat at the last race holding in a bunch of right steering on the straights, then a bit of left, etc. The stock servo saver comes with an insert of the correct diameter and number of teeth on the splines, but it does NOT hold well on the 645MG. It will skip teeth when jolted, as I found out the hard way. I switched to a kimbrough heavy duty unit I had lying around (I had it in reserve for my Stampede) and have not had any issues with steering since.

malice23

Great to see a new DB01 driver. Switch to Lipo batteries. You will get more power and more runtime. Many sellers on ebay have them. I typicaly buy batteries from Intellect that are 7.4v 4000mah at a 20C rating. That should give your motor some extra juice to have fun with. Make the switch to a brushless motor when your skills get better. Feel free to ask any questions, everyone here is very knowledgable and helpful in various things having to do with the db01.

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

After running about half the races this season and some light bashing between, I made a nasty discovery cleaning the car after yesterday's heat races. One of the balls on the rear suspension (the one that fits into the small block at the front side of the arm) chewed through the plastic and started rounding out the hole in the block. By the end of the day, I had about 1/4" play out at the wheel[X(][X(]! Since Tower doesn't have the stock parts anyway, I'm going to upgrade I guess. I would keep an eye on them and upgrade as soon as obvious wear occurs.

SoupSpoon

Great thank you, got them and the build went smooth.

And about the post above... I noticed the very samething when installing the swing arms and instantly thought 'fail'. I can see why they made the suspension mounts and the blocks to hold the arms on. But what do you expect from a $200.00 car really, overall Iam happy. And honestly Iam surprised they lasted that long he he.

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

So, I went to install the alu. suspension mounts and fluorine coated balls last night, and as I was taking the rear end apart, I was thinking, 'hmm, I should be working on a towel", right about the time the spacers went flying, one of them not to be found. So, I discovered that HPI shock o-rings are the same inner diameter and thickness as the missing spacer. I'm not crazy about using a silicone o-ring exposed like that, but what choice do I have until a replacement comes in? I'll have to see if I can find some styrene tube the right size...

CrustyNoodle

You should have several left over spacers from your original build - you did keep the surplus parts didn't you?

SoupSpoon

Yea he's right you should have a few extras from each side...

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

That's what I thought too, but I sure can't find them. Then again, I can't find the original screws either, and I know I kept them somewhere(I used a Tony's Screws kit on my build). I'll have to take another look, I guess.

Ttam Says Blarg

For a while Tamiya stopped producing the main screw in the kit and I couldnt find it anywhere.

SoupSpoon

If you need to you can purchase the A parts from Tower 15.99 - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUGZ3&P=Z Better then ordering from over seas. (If your in the USA)

Good luck guys~

SoupSpoon

Oh yea almost forgot to post a pic of my Durga...
Still waiting on some hop ups from HK, like muh shocks~

HSVXU6

L@@KS a bit too clean to me

The Collector1

My Feedback: (2)

Nice ride, glad to see more Durga owners out there, mine is that clean......after I clean it

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

Found the extra spares, so now I'm good with spacers. For some reason, they were hiding in with my spare RC8 parts instead of with the rest of the Tamiya stuff. Now to get them back on there before the final race weekend of the season here...

ElectricGuy007

Your post makes me want to do a dirty pic of my 501x and a clean pic, kinda like a before and after thing.

Forgetful_Duck

Hmmmm is it possible to install the one way center in such a way that it acts on the rear wheels instead.
So instead of rear braking, you get only front brakes and a free rolling rear when off the throttle. Wonder what kind of handling characteristics that might bring...

dimblum

It would not be good.. Breaking only from the front would cause the car to spinout constantly. The car has to break from the rear due to forward momentum.

Free wheeling the rear wheels would have almost no effect since they are not the wheels used for steering (minor rollout ratio compared to the front wheels).

I believe it could be installed that way, but I would not want to try it...

ElectricGuy007

I fixed the diff issue I was having with my rear diff every couple of runs it would come loose.
So I looked up on oople and they took 2 diff nuts and put them one in front of the other one.
It shoudnt come loose on me again ever. The slipping noise I was hearing was my slipper and not the rear diff.

-Eric01-

I have a problem and a question.

After 5 minutes of driving my Mamba 6900 Combo didn't work any more. I'll get the money back because it is under warranty.

Now which Brushless set do you recommend? It should have at least the power of the Mamba 5700 Combo, sensorless, max. price: 200€/280$ for ESC + motor.

Thanks,
Eric

ElectricGuy007

I have a sensorless system in my 501x.
This is the only one I can think of that is close or even faster than 5700 mamba.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ombo-3T-6200kV

This is the exact system I run. Tower doesnt even carry the 362 motor anymore. Since the RS pro is
out and it's the same esc except it runs sensored and sensorless.

Talk about power, you can run a 3S lipo with it as well. Talk about insane.

crusadores

Hello people!

I have been racing with my DB01 for the past months! It feels great!!! So much fun!!!
There are 501x/Durga/B44 buggies driven by great drivers and i always manage to get 5-6 place.
Now, i am aiming higher, but i need better car handling!

1. My front "bar codes" proved to be the worst choice for the dusty tracks. Cornering at any decentspeed
is impossible.
At the rear the "bow ties" were excellent but that only worsened the cornering problem.
So now i need new rims (front and rear) and new tires (front and rear as the "bow ties" are busted (soft).

Q: I was wondering if there are bead-loc rims. Pay once for the rims a least.
Q: What are the best Proline tires for the front? What compound? Medium or hard? The tracks are dusty with
big patches of hard-packed.

The HPI rims "Ultra 7" proved to be very sturdy! After 2 races totalling 60 minutes they are as good as new,
besides the fact that they have the old tires glued. I hate that i have to ditch them!)


2. The 3racing alu dampers behaved "ok" on the bumpy track at TRIGGER. although they absobed pretty well,
they didn't have enough strength to extend back.

Q: Do i need harder springs or softer oil? I am not really sure the weight of the oil the lalready have...
Or do i have to go for these: [link=http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=3319]54028 TRF Buggy Aeration Oil Filled Damper[/link]
I have seen them both assembled and in kit form. Are there two different products?
Q: Is there a better or equivalent option the the aeration dampers?

3. Someone suggested the 501x stabilizers. Are they worth it?

What is your opinion, guys?

Stef

1. I need ne

gman1

Regarding your setup I would highly suggest that you check out oople. c o m since it is more of a race oriented type site. I personally don't race, at least not yet due to the fact that there isn't a track close to where I live, but on oople you can find set up sheets for the DB01 and the guys on there are very helpful in regards to racing and other questions. I can answer your question about the TRF aeration dampers though: To the best of my knowledge there aren't any other dampers that are better, only others that may be equivalent which would be associated or maybe losi. So yeah I would definitely check out some of the set up sheets that racers have posted over on oople. You won't be disappointed. Sorry i couldn't be more helpful, but i hope I've helped you out a little bit anyways.

dimblum

I have been racing a DB-01 (Durga) for a while now and believe I can help with your questions.

1. Bar Code type tires thrive on hard clean tracks (mostly indoor offroad hard pack clay). They are not very good for dusty outdoor offroad tracks since they cannot penetrate the loose dirt layer to gain traction. You are better off using a mini pin design for loose dirt offroad tracks - like Pro-Line 'Holeshots', J-Concepts 'Double Dees', or Panther 'Raptors' to name a few. In some occasions Bowtie or Step Pin type tires can also be good, but are usually only needed if the dirt is very loose.

Another important factor is the 'compound' of the tire you are using. Softer compound should always be used for harder dirt tracks. The opposite is true for softer surfaces like short grass or spongy loose dirt - that is where the harder compound tires thrive.


2. I have never seen a bead-loc rim design for any competition buggy. Bead-loc designs unfortunately add unwanted wheel weight and are harder to balance than a standard one-piece rim.. Although I would welcome that style of rim for 4WD buggy's, we aren't likely to see one any time soon.


3. As mentioned above, you will want to skip all Medium and Hard compound tires for a hard pack dirt track.. Stick with soft compounds only and you will notice a big improvement in your traction. You are probably best sticking with "Hole Shots" if you want to use a Pro-Line tire. They will be the best all around for your track.


4. I have considered trying the HPI rims (Brama 10 type) for the Durga since they had a pretty cool look to them. The only other non-Tamiya brand rims I can recommend are J-Concept Rulux wheels and Losi XXX4 wheels.. They are direct fit wheels to the stock DB-01 hexes without any modifications.


5. Spring tension and oil weight is a tricky subject.. These can very greatly by track condition, track design (low or high speed), jump length and height, etc... Luckily there are some general rules which tend to deliver a good driving experience.. A - Use a slightly harder spring in the front than the rear. You will get a little more disance jumping and typically better traction control. B - Start with mid weight oils and see how your car feels.. For hard tracks try 30W-35W if you use performance dampers (Like the Tamiya Aeration Damper set). Since you are running a hard track, try softer springs to start and then switch to medium to hard springs to see the difference in handling. I have discovered that there is no solid rule for spring tension, I have changed springs simply because my track layout changed.


6. The Tamiya TRF Aeration Damper set are the best dampers I have ever used. They are worth the money for the smoother suspension they provide and their construction is excellent.. I would suggest you also invest in the Atomic Carbon front and rear shock towers if you decide to get the Aeration Dampers.. The rear tower is almost essential for the extended shock length, and the durability of these towers is second to none.. (http://atomic-carbon.gforceimages.net/cfp.html)


7. When you say 'stabilizer', I think you are referring to the anti-rollbars.. They are a good accessory to have in certain situations.. They mostly benefit traction on hard clean tracks (indoor), they can on occasion work well on outdoor tracks when they are not too dusty.. If the tires have a good grip to begin with, then they can help you.. If the tires have a traction problem on the track, they anti-rollbars can make it worse... If you do plan to use them, try the rear anti-rollbar only and see how it goes..


Hope this helps