MadManAndrew

The track is VERY hard packed dirt. Can't even kick up dust...

overrev

Your best bet is to see what other people are running and go from there. The owner of the track I go to is a sponsored pro so he know what tires works best on his surface.

MadManAndrew

The owner of the track I go to doesn't ever race, hes more of a plane guy, so he has no idea. I'll ask around about tires next time I'm there, see what everybody else is running...

muddyninja1

slash good points? $200.00, toughest rtr rc you can buy, it's water proof, fun to drive, fun to race. i have raced, and bashed for over twenty years, i have trucks with $1000.00 plus put into them, and this slash is far more fun to drive than anything else i own. watch CORR truck racing on TV, if you like what you see, then go buy a slash. really this truck is more than worth the money. and you can run it bone stock in spec racing and it is fun. find someone that has one, run it for 1-2 minutes, then you'll want to go buy one. stock they are not the fastest, but the slash is just more fun and exciting to run than most other rc's.

myst38

Which part of the VXL motor should you check temps on?
Should it be on the can itself or on the plastic cover on the end of the motor?
I run in pretty hot conditions most of the time and check temps usually by hand on the motor can, but read on another forum that you should check the temps on the plastic cap.
I have purchased a PE Exotics temp gauge, and running 19/86 gearing on 2S lipo it gets to 185F on the motor can. I know that is in the proper range, but if i take a reading on the plastic it is much lower...
Where do you temp?

Lilredmachine

Take the highest reading, that way you know you aren't screwing it up. 185f is up there, 200 being when you really need to stop.

MadManAndrew:

Avoid the mamba motors in the Slash, they are too hot running to use effectively without gearing down to 15/90 or even lower. This is bad for efficiency, very bad.

Best mild setup by far is the Mamba ESC with VXL motor. The VXL esc is fine but if you are racing you need the adjustability of the mamba. A correct throttle curve can mean the difference between pissing all your power away in wheelspin out of a corner, and it hooking up perfectly and leaving the pack for dead. The VXL stays coolish and can pull big gearing happily.

If there are buggies running your track, I suggest you get some 17mm adapters and run buggy rims and tires. Then you can take tire setups from the quickest buggies.

Aside from that, get Traxxas or STRC alloy rear hubs, RPM arms, RPM towers and RPM front camber blocks and hub carriers. The RPM rear hubs seem to break quite easily on the slash compared to their other parts. That will make the truck very tough and keep it light with mostly plastic. You may want to look into some high quality Associated shocks or the Traxxas big bores. At the very least you will need alloy caps on the stock shocks.

overrev

Don't use rpm parts they break just as easy as stock parts. I know have went through many sets of caster blocks and steering hubs cheaper to replace with stock and last just as long. Use flm shock tower they are more adjustable work great. If you want the castle mamba system use the 4600 you will be able to gear it using stock gearing with out heat issues.

Lilredmachine

I love that slash man, it may as well be a 2wd 1/8th buggy.

huck ur rc

hey guys ive been reading alot af this thread and ive decided to get a slash but i am wondering what would be the best battery for bashing and just ripping around at sand pits and in feilds also can you run lipo with the stock moter? if so which lipo would be best for run times but still have deacent speed

Budget Monty

I have broken 2 of the RPM rear bearing carriers in the last 2 days. They fixed where the stock ones break by beefing it up there, but the RPM ones both broke right in the middle of the bearing area on mine. I already have the RPM arms and front Caster and steering blocks coming, but it looks like I need to get the aluminum rears. Anyone bend them, or are they pretty bulletproof? I am not a racer, I just need durability as I beat my truck hard.

Budget Monty

I am getting an average runtime of 25 minutes on a 3600 NiMh pack with a MM/VXL setup on 18/86 gearing. What do you consider a short runtime?

huck ur rc

in the 15 to 20 miniute range is a bit short 25 sounds good but do you
get longer runtimes with the vxl setup? how long do you think it would run with a 5000 mah nimh pack

overrev

Budget monty just use the stock parts cheaper to fix. Those are the parts I break tired rpm but the stock parts hold up better. Aluminum parts put the stress some wear else.

MadManAndrew

Wow, things have changed alot since I had my EMaxx, the longest run times I had with it were 5 minutes...

MadManAndrew

Is [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001319511&I=LXXCG5&P=K]this[/link] what you need to run buggy wheels?

brett_saville

Yep, they'll work but you'll be waiting a while. Google the code 10623ALBK for [link=http://www.xtremercracing.com/Store_Detail.cfm?ID=228733&InfoID=2995&ShowLarge=True&SnipID=6677]these[/link] and you'll find plenty in stock at various stores. That was for the black ones, they do have Orange ones as well 10623ALO. I have black ones and they work great.

iRCHELi

I'm looking to get a new radio to use with all my different rc stuff.

Which one do you think would be better The spektrum DX3R

http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/D...ProdID=SPM3100

or the DX3S

http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/D...ProdID=SPM3130

or the DX3.0

http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/D...rodID=SPM20310

Which ever one I get will be the only radio I will buy for a long time.

lestatsghost

any of you guys that are breaking the rpm stuff sending it back to rpm? splitting the rear hub that is hard to do. get your part fixed rpm warranties against breakage.

Budget Monty

The RPM hubs actually break easier than the stock ones. But the stock ones break too easily for me as well. I am saving my broken RPM parts so I can send them all in at once to make the mailing worth it. I understand the point of the stock ones being cheap and easy to replace, but I hate having to replace them so often (Don't misunderstand, I beat this truck far harder than traxxas ever intended, a lot of skate park stuff, I am not blaming Traxxas, this is the most durable truck I have ever owned by far). I am going to try the Traxxas branded Aluminum rear bearing carriers with the RPM front and rear arms, front caster blocks, and steering blocks (All on order and waiting). I also ordered the Nitro Hawk aluminum shock caps (I hope those were the right ones!) because I am sick of the shock caps popping off, and heard here that this was a good solution. I also have the RPM rear bumper mount already installed.

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

I've seen lots of people on this site and others commenting on how big and heavy this truck is compared to other 1/10 trucks and how consequently such and such upgrade, motor, battery, etc won't work. The truck is significantly larger in wheelbase etc., that much is fairly evident. However, I put both the Slash and my Stampede on a postal scale last night just out of curiosity and got the following numbers: Slash 4lbs, 13oz. Stampede 4lbs, 5oz. Both are with everything except a battery onboard. So we're basically talking a difference of 1/2pound(or 225grams for you metric types). Or, to put it in perspective, the difference is less than half the weight of a standard 6 cell nimh pack. Not an insignificant difference, but certainly not as much as I expected to find based on all the comments. Take it for what it's worth.

Crash9

Friday at work was hard ....hardly working ...so we busted out my RC gear and my FPV system. The Losi family (yep those guys that sold the biz a few years back) from across the alley came out to play. All it took was the FPV E-maxx and they where all over it..."Can I try it...."Whens my turn". I got some good video .

At the end of the parking lot there's a drainage ditch and sandwash that are a blast to play in.

Here's a video from my view as I drive it from the video feed from inside the shop.


[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8-B1fdIl9w[/youtube]

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

Nice video! Much easier to watch than many of the on-board clips I've seen on youtube.

lestatsghost

the reasons the weights are so close is it is almost the same as a pede. they changed the steering and base plate which are the big differences few other small changes were added, but thats why the weight is only slightly off.

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

Agreed. I just thought it odd that many people keep posting how "big" and "heavy" the truck is, when the difference is about 10%. I've seen it posted several places that the preferred brushless setup for a stampede is around 5700kv, yet many are claiming that even the 4600kv motor is too "hot" for the Slash. Doesn't compute.

Lilredmachine

The CMS motors are 'relatively' hot for the Slash. I mean they'll work, but to be honest having the motor sat at 185f every run is going to balls it up eventually.

Fact is, the Velinion is a more efficient, cooler running, better quality motor. The CMS motors used to be better but they have dropped in quality.

No sign of mine bending, and I've only recently stopped running my speed slash geared 31/76 at 60+ mph with the crashes that brings.