Mugen Mbx5

Will the mamba max speed controller work with the LRP eraser sensord motor without issues? I have the A.I. ESC with the 13.5 turn eraser and I don't like the A.I. esc, I would like to buy just the Mamba and use the Eraser motor. Also does the Mamba come with the castle link cord and software?

Always Dreamin

The MM will be able to RUN sensored motors. It will NOT be able to run them in SENSORED mode. Which means they will cogg just as a normal sensorless motor would.

The MM comes with a CD and a castle link to program it.

sloppyG

the MM doesn't come with castle link


it does not need castle link as it's got a USB port on the ESC, so you can program it with any USB-mini USB cord (MM does come with that cord if you don't have one sitting around)


but castle link, is the $20 cable for programming the sidewinder/monster max/ubec/everything castle makes but the MM
and that will cost you extra, but you won't need it for a MM

Mugen Mbx5

What is cogging? I have sensored brushless now and have no experiance with sensorless. I have heard that term "cogging" but never heard or seen it explained.

fordert

The MM 5700 combo I just bought a couple months ago came with the cable. I have zero cogging over here. I am using a DX 2.0 and 2s and 3s lipos. The latest firmware must have fixed the MM cogging issues. Have not tried a sensored motor with the MM though.

Takedown

My Feedback: (23)

Its when the ESC isnt able to find the position of the rotor.

Mugen Mbx5

So what does that cause? How do you know it is cogging?

sloppyG

the cable that the MM combos come with is not castle link

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXGVR8&P=ML

this is castle link

Slow Ride

That causes some grey hairs and I think even some motor damage if done too much. Cogging usually happens at any range, and it is only on takeoff, usually very slow takeoffs.

fordert

Sorry. sloppyG is on it. My post sounds like the mm comes with castle link (which MM doesn't need). Just wanted to really post about the coggin issues. I have heard people with MM have had this issue and I have had zero cogging. Or at least it's so subtle that I don't notice. The software is stupid cool to mess around with. Run around in the backyard for awhile then bring it in and plug up to the lap top and change a few things. It's very trick. I think you can download the software for free off the website. Love the auto-lipo setting. The esc knows if you have a 2s or 3s plugged in and sets voltage cutoff.

fusebmx13

I have a sidewinder and my brother has the MM. They are awesome they do cogg some when the battery gets low. I have also noticed this with bad batteries. the reason fordert has no problems is because he is using lipo and it is much easier for the motor to get that power. The way i see it is the esc is the brain of the truck and the battery is the hart. If you have a bad hart your brain suffers along with the whole truck lol. I guess that means the motor is the feet and legs?

Access

Body analogies don't really work. Think of a big pipe with water flowing through it. If any part of the pipe is too narrow it will slow the water. Just like pinching a garden hose at a single spot can hold back all the water. The battery generates the energy and then it must go through the wiring and connector to the ESC, and from the ESC through more wiring (and possibly connectors) to the motor. If ANY of these parts are weak, the whole system suffers. One wretched tamiya connector can screw everything up.

The term 'cogging' is often mis-used. It is really very simple, it is something you can induce in most sensorless systems (VXL, etc.) by trying to creep along at a speed under 10cm/sec. Try this with a VXL and it will make this clik-clik-clik noise and it will either want to stop or go faster than that speed (not creep). The mamba OTOH does a pretty good job of going that slow, it isn't really 100% controllable (compared to, say, a goat) but it's far more controllable at that speed than most sensorless ESCs.

If it is happening under throttle at speed, it is not cogging, that is something totally different / unrelated and can happen on sensored setups as well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKdRFDuyoVo
video demonstration of a goat / mamba / vxl cogging (or lack thereof)

Safety Hawk

My Feedback: (6)

I wish it did use the Castle Link, because it's a lot easier for me to pull the plug out of the receiver than get to the USB port on the side of te ESC. Anyone know if it will work both ways?