shaunmichaeljohnson

i have come up with a good idea about making the rustler/pede tranny worth using.

what's wrong with the stock tranny?
cant apply too much power or the idler will flex out of place and strip.
diff sucks
driveshafts are too weak for extra power and get worn out pretty quickly (even the steel yokes are starting to ware out after 3 hours of use)

so the idea was to get...
FLM tranny case
swami alluminium diff case
5x8 bb's
7000wt diff oil
and a few gasket and seals here and there

and the idea was this, lets start with the diff.

with the swami diff mashine out the output shaft holes acuratly so a heat shrink fit on the 5x8 bb's will go in the hold themelf in there (heat shrink fit NEVER comes out).
put a fibre washer on the inside of the diff outputs before assembeling the diff.
then fill the diff with oil and seal the cover with a little silicone

now the gearbox,
use as normal but because of FLM's design we can seal the case to make it hold oil.
drill and tap a place to fill it with oil in the top of the gearbox.
assembel the gearbox with silicone and fill with an oil that is viscous enough to carry up all 3 gears.

make sure you use steel gears!
the oil will stop the steel gears from eating each other up as there should be only hardened steel gears VS normal steel gears otherwize bad. (ally + steel is fine so that's why traxxas use it stock)

the outdrives.

get some E-maxx spurs and pinions in the correct sized and diameters so your gear ratio is around where it was before.
fit your revo slipper.

then mod the jato driveshafts to fit (has been done before) and you're away!

that should give you a bullet proof tranny that will handel better, take power better and be quieter[8D][8D]

when i save up enough i'm gonna give this a go.
i'm starting testing with the diff mod on a stock one first (may leak badly because ya cant heat shrink fit plastic)



ideas, coments?
all welcome good and bad
shaun

sloppyG

for the cost of all that you could have probably bought a T4 or losi that doesn't have that trans issue

the whole kit not just a trans

hands without shadows

I dont quite understand your 5x8 idea. Can you elaborate?

Redvanmafia

sloppyG that was great, yeah thats alot of money for just a little bit of tranny work. go for it if you wanna just say you did. but you can just use the stock tranny case get an alum idler gear and the traxxas diff with the metal teeth on it, thats alot cheaper i run my 7700 on a 2 and have no problems with any trans mission or driveshaft parts if you have a more powerfull system then sure

fusebmx13

dude i dont know whats so wrong with the tranny. If you make it like the vxl one it is fine, i have never replaced an output yoke and i have the sidewinder 5700. It goes 47.2 mph. If you have all steal gears you are fine. Its not worth that money, buy a new truck if you are so worried about it lol. They are right, it would cost the same.

shaunmichaeljohnson

yeah guys my tranny is VXL spec.
but it's still not enough.

the reason for a FLM tranny case, can handel more power like a feigao L motor. (more tourque and higher rpm so no losses like you get from a mamba 5700, loose tourque)

reason for oil...
my ally idler just got stripped from basic use and the steel one isnt hardened. so the best way to fix this is to get some oil in there.


and as for the diff...well we know that it sucks[:@]

having 5x8bb's in there would seal heaps better than thoes crap plastic bushings they have there stock (built into diff case)



and...
can a losi T4 handel a fiegao L motor and MMM
shaun

fusebmx13

i dont think that the diff is that bad. I use thick lube in it and it is a little stiff at first but it softens up after an hour or so. I use this stuff for realy 1:1 cars called lubriplate. It works so well. It doesnt turn into lipuid like some other lubes i got from my lhs do. It stays for over a year. (until i stripped a gear (my only plastic gear left lol)

Kevin_N

Yes. At least the xxxt can.

j.m.

if your complaining about un-hardened steel, then just harden it.
Read here:
http://www.btinternet.com/~hognosesam/gcse/page21.html

For a carbon compound, use highly used motor oil. It has to be DARK black.
Be careful when dipping, as the oil will most likely catch on fire, resulting in even more carbon going into the metal.

1maxdude

I think just steel idler and steel vxl diff ring and the flm case is all you need. I highly doubt the need for that aluminum differential with steel ring is necessary. Plastic with steel ring is a couple bucks, that swami one is like 80ish? I've put mine through hell and it has held up just fine so far. MM 6900 on 3s lipo. Really high rpms. Be careful with what you try to heat treat, I'm betting you will come up with less than favorable results, but then you wouldn't know that because you can't test it. You should know your material before you start, and if you are just gonna carburize them, sure it'll be wear resistant, but you'll be prone to cracking them or snapping in half. Plus we are talkin small gear teeth, you can't do it for very long otherwise the case will go too deep and you'll just be shearing the teeth right off. Your best temperature would be 16-1700 deg. for 20 min. maybe. Of course that is if its regular plain ol carbon steel. Its most likely not, it's probably powdered metal thats already been hardened and should best be left alone because you can't heat treat that conventionally.

shaunmichaeljohnson

guess it wasnt a good idea then

yes it would be too expensive to be econimical but that wasnt the point lol

well thanks for ALL your input guys
time to get a LST and mambafy it then
shaun

1maxdude

Go for it if you want. I originally planned on buying one of those swami diff cases. But the price deterred me while at the same time everyone else said the vxl one holds up fine, and it does. I really don't see the need for it, more rotating mass as well, but alls I know is if I was gonna break that diff case somehow, I'd rather it be the cheap plastic one than the swami one. It would probably take a land mine to do it though lol. Also theres a guy I know of that has put some insane power through the vxl one and has hit 80+ numerous times and finally hit 90. He has gone through an idler gear and output shaft I believe, but I think the differential held up. Not sure exactly though. Just sayin, it should handle anything you throw at it, but the FLM tranny case is a near must have.

Revotrx3

Hey, i have to say this, Great Thinking, at least hes not skiping out on parts, hes buying the best possible, i say go for it.

shaunmichaeljohnson

youre absolutly right about the stock diff being fine

but you cant heat shrink a bb into the diff housing in the stock plastic one.
you can press it in but that'll leave the original plastic bushing gone and not enough matirial to do it, nonetheless i'm gonna use a stock diff for testing

i didnt want to go with all stock parts because there are a few tiny little problems that i can see and have herd about them that makes me want to stay away from them a little.
dont get my wrong i have a VXL tranny w/ steel idler and it's GREAT!!!

shaun