HandyRacing

"Got it back"

What happened that it was sent away?

FoamyVictim

Well, I'm not really sure "what" happened, but it quit working. The day after my first race day with it, I was at the same track practicing, seeing if there were changes I could make to get around the tight corners a little faster(the nitros were able to do it, based on adjustable brake bias, so I'm trying to work around the fact that I don't have that option). As I was practicing, it started slowing down like I ran the battery dead... but it was fully charged and only ran about 5 minutes. Hmm, so I pull it off the track, and test the battery, seems fully charged. I reinstall it, and try again, still pretty slow. So I take it back to my shop and play with it(I'm thinking I may have accidentally pressed the program switch while turning it on, and swapped profiles or something. So I go through the setup procedure a few times, still acting weak. I basically played with it until it stopped working. It actually switched directions at one point, and was running backwards! [&:] I swapped the leads, and it ran forwards, WITH full power, for about 30 seconds. After that, when you turned it on, it would run for about 3 seconds, then stop and do nothing but cog. So I packed it up and sent it back to Losi. I got it back in 1 week(pretty darn fast) and they sent me a brand new set. I had to solder the wires on the motor, but other then that, it only took me about 10 minutes to get the new system in. I took it to the track, and I'm a happy camper. One thing I noticed about the first system, every time I ran it, I got that "Hot Electronics" smell. I didn't see smoke, scorch marks or any indication is was toasting itself. I even pulled the heat sink off the ESC to see if I cooked a FET; nope, they all looked perfect(I checked because I saw a pic in another forum with the FETs all melted together)

This is a Brand New Brushless system, so the first run is Bound to have Bugs... But with service as good and fast as Losi's, I don't mind.

HandyRacing

Cooling of the ESC is critical for these rigs. Aside from the power to push the heavy 1/8 scale around the track, the braking is hard on them.

We toasted our first Castle Mamba Max, the second one (from a warranty return) is still working, but they require good solid cooling fan performance. Coupled with that the gearing & motor section is important.

(The NEU motors are (seem to be) the most ESC friendly as they are more efficient, I think a LOT having to do with 4-pole rather than 2-pole). Its no accident NEU is working with various parties to private label or "influence" motor design.

We're still running our Feigoa (I can never remember how to spell that) for 5 minute races, hoping big time to upgrade ASAP. Taking care of the battery is also critical (more volts equal less heat).

I also think you nailed it above, how you drive it will make a big difference, like with anything, smoother is better.

FoamyVictim

Yup, I was pretty careful with it. I only got the motor above the recommended temp range once, and geared way down after that. The ESC never got over 150ish. I think I may have just had a faulty unit. It smelled funny after every run, and the new one with identical gearing, runs much cooler. I'll reserve my judgment until after the next race... that's the proving ground.

Xue99

Man, I am getting this car soon. What do you think the top speed is? And how long does it take to charge?

FoamyVictim

Top speed is in the 40s, gets there extremely fast! Charge time depends on the battery. On the balance function for the recommended charger, charging the recommended battery, can range from 20 minutes to over an hour depending on how much was left in the battery. It will run about 20 minutes on a charge, just running consistent laps on a small track.

adrictan

Guys: How abt posting what batts u use? mah, brand, 3s/4s/5s and price?

FoamyVictim

5000 mah Losi 4S. They retail for $219, but with discounts and sales, you can get them for about $180. There's also Zippy and Rhino packs for far less:

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...0C_Lipoly_Pack

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...00mAh_4S1P_15C

Xue99

Is it like low, mid, or high 40s

FoamyVictim

On the track made of dirt, low 40s(not enough room to get to full speed), on open pavement, mid to high 40s. It'll all depend on your gearing, battery, tires, wind direction, weather or not your ground is level, the traction, and if the planets are in alignment!

Xue99

Do you think the zippy will peform as well as the losi? They both have the same voltage, same cells, but differnet current. Zip has 15c and losi has 25c. Zip will get more run time but losi will get more power but less run time. Do you think that the zip will get close enough with the losi in performace? I really don't want to spend like 120$ more on another battery.

FoamyVictim

I know it won't make as much power, but the capacity is there. These things are so dang fast, I doubt it would inhibit performance enough to be significant... especially when you pay less than half! If you're going for ultimate speed and performance, then the higher C rating is what you want... but it'll cost you.

gobben

What Battery is needed to get 30min run times? 8000MAH or higher?

Xue99

A lower c rating will have longer run times.

HandyRacing

So I may be clear about my understanding of battery techno trivia....

C-rating is essentially the "available" discharge rate? Thus acting like a bit of a current limiting function and thus if the battery cant discharge as fast, it lasts longer?

FoamyVictim

Yes, or so it would seem. I've had multiple batteries of the same capacity, but different C ratings. It's really noticeable in some applications, but in others, not so much. For example, in my park flyers, I can tell the difference between the 10C 2200 and the 25C 2200. With the better one, it'll go vertical forever while the other falls off about 100ft up. In my micro car (Xray M18 on carpet) I can just barely tell at all, and the weaker battery doesn't even HAVE a C rating! However, both of those seem to have pretty close to the same run time(like 45 minutes! [X(] ) I'm not sure exactly how it would work out in this application. The amp draw should be noticeable, but not terribly detrimental. It may even be a little easier to control with the lower C rating. Right now, I can do wheelies on command...

HandyRacing

I was thinkng the same thing about easier to control, as in over powered applications make for a more sensitive triger finger requirment.

This is where the tuning on the Castle comes in, one can soften the in-rush current (and thus stress on system from excess power) on both the breaking and throttle. Having too big a battery in both volts and C-rating will put extra pressure on the ESC and drivetrain. Although more volts (for example 5 cell) and less current may be a good thing (less heat).

The electric gambit in an 1/8 scale weight range vehicle is still a bit out there on the cutting edge curge in many ways, in my opinion. Whihc is what turns me on about it. Things need to be just right or premature wear on parts (of all sorts) will be an issue, and you can't win a race if you don't finish.

FoamyVictim

Yes, the Xcelerin system has similar adjustments, and you can make quick ones with the programming card, or go deep into tuning with the software and USB port that it comes with. So far, I'm happy with its performance, so I haven't messed with it yet. I plan to try one of those Rhino packs, to see if the lower C rating helps or hurts. At the very worst, I could end up with a practice pack.

I went to practice at B&T today, and as I was running laps, I realized something... so I tried it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKUWlWDqP3Q

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xlz6hngvJX0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SxWdqifdKpg

HandyRacing

So MUCH better than the fuss and noise of Nitro.... thanks, keep making the vids....

I'm working on some (1/8 scale, Slash, etc) race footage from yesterday's first day of the Wastenaw Track season... stay tuned.

Almighty ODST

Be careful when considering a lower C rated battery. Especially when it's lipo. If your application is pulling too much current you'll start to get puffy batteries, which obviously isn't good.

FoamyVictim

I've read where at least one person has one, and is happy with it. If mine was a little more "Limited", I could deal with it. I rarely even touch full throttle at my track(unless I'm trying to make 25ft jumps to show off, see vid links ) Since my 25C pack barely gets warm, I bet a 15 C pack might get a little warmer. If I spent less than half what I did on the hard case Losi pack, then I wouldn't cry about less than ballistic performance. If I was on a tight budget, then the Rhino packs would be appealing.

HandyRacing

Some 1/8 scale racing footage is up here:

http://blog.handyracing.com/2008/06/...er-season.aspx

Almighty ODST

Handy, you're link is broken

HandyRacing

Gosh, it worked when I tested it. Thanks for the heads-up, I'll try and troubleshoot and figure out what's going on......

In the meantime, the hotlink on my front page here www.HandyRacing.com still seems to be working.

Update: I tested the hyperlinks which use the same URL at the other places I have it posted, including Dan's site for the Washtenaw Track, all seems well. I suspect its a RCUniverse glitch.

allE

I'm mostly a plane guy so I may ask a few "stupid" questions.

I just placed a order for the 2.0 Losi and the electric conversion kit. I did this because I want to go with the Castle-Neu controller motor set up. I have the XXX-4G with the Xcelleron system and have problems with it.

Stupid question #1- Do I need to remove the brakeing system and just use the ESC programming for brakes??

Thanks for the help