rbjeepthing

By no means is this the end all to end all correct way to do this so take it as a grain of salt. Everyone tends to do things differently and this is just how I was shown and now how I do things.

First remove the Tranny from the truck.

The screws you need to remove are the 4 screws on the bottom closest to the back of the truck and the 2 screws on the top directly behind the shock tower. Once the tranny is removed take off the slipper clutch cover then the motor.

You should end up with something like this.


Next remove the 5 screws that hold the tranny together. 4 are the same length and 1 is not. It's easy to tell for re-assembly which goes where since the longer ones all go back into the motor plate. Once you have removed the screws crack the case open by lightly pulling and wiggling.



Pull the diff out of the transmission. If your inner shafts are worn it will be difficult to pull it through the case. Once you have the diff out remove the 4 screws that hold the diff together. Notice the crummy factory grease inside that no longer makes contact with any of the gears.\




Next squeeze the two sidegears together and remove them from the diff housing. Becarefull not to loose the washers on the outside of the gears that go against the housing. Now take everything outside and clean it off with brake clean. Use compressed air to dry the brake clean and get rid of any dirt and debris.



Now this is where you need to make the call. For racing I use 1000wt diff oil. I like the way the truck handles with this weight fluid however every 3 runs I need to replace this process again as the fluid will leak out. I have tried replacing the seals and it make little to no difference. For bashing I prefer automotive brake caliper lube. It creates almost a locked diff but does not leak out at all. Either way fill up one side of the diff.





That's it your done no re-install everything in the reverse that you took it apart! Then take it outside and enjoy your much more controllable vehicle!

rbjeepthing

hold

redfisher1974

You doing this in real time?....

never mind i see you just added the rest of the pics....good pics by the way.

rbjeepthing

Thanks ya nice to have some decent photog equipment rather then a point-and-shoot camera.

redfisher1974

I think i will be doing this to my Storm...The diff feels crunchy when i spin one wheel by hand..

Willystylz

beautiful!! thank you so very much!

redfisher1974

Just rebuilt mine...Feels alot better and has a more locked feel to it.The stock grease was thick but they just didnt put enough into it.

rbjeepthing

^wait intill you see the handling difference!

drjunk

Anybody tryed instant gasket to seal the diff casing?

rbjeepthing

There is a gasket there. They are like $2.00 for two of them. I find the fluid leaks out of the seal at the diff shaft. I suppose you could use RVT on the housing but really don't see a need to since the factory seal seems to work fine and seems to be re-usable a few times.

drjunk

Thanks for that....is there any way of sealing around the shafts?

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

a heavy/sticky grease should do it like black automotive grease or some lithitum,

the lug

Eman77

On the topic of diff greases, I like the Sears white automotive grease. It's cheap, and you get a lot.

rbjeepthing

There is a rubber seal under the side gear that somewhat seals the shaft.

SquireSCA

Anybody have a part # for the E-Firestorm diff, and where you can order it? I don't want to rebuild mine, I would rather just get the whole thing, already assembled, just add some grease and go.

I can't find the info anywhere, but I am sure someone has had to replace one and can point me in the right direction.

Thanks!

redfisher1974

tower has the diff case and the diff gears but you have to build it,I left you a link for ebay with the whole trans in the firestorm thread.

ScottStaypuff

Check ebay, guys part out new E-firestorms on there.

SquireSCA

Cool, I found the case and gear set at Tower and ordered up a set. Thanks!

redfisher1974

Your Welcome.