jdubb2010

See your running the castle sidewinder esc and 5700kv motor, What battery are you running? If your running a 2s, are you getting good speed out of it? I bought this setup under the impression that it would run a 3s lipo, so i havent bought either yet, i am waiting to see if anyone has ran a 3s on this before i buy a few batteries.. I ran it on a 7.4 6cell and was very displeased with the performance.. Have you tried a 3s on it yet??Are you happy with the output of running a 2s on it??Or what are you using??I have really mixed feelings about this setup.. What's yourexperiancewith this setup, what kind of performance are you getting, i am a top speed kinda guy pretty much..

jamie007

I'm running the mamba pro, with the castle 5700, I normally run it with a maxamps 6500 25c pack, and it is PLENTY fast. I would say about 40mph? I'm running a 20t pinion, I tried 19t and it was a little too slow. It's perfect for even the large track we have at the silverbowl in Las Vegas which as a straight that is about 120 ft long? This setup seems perfect for this track and even smaller indoor tracks. I have tried it once with a 3s pack, I bought a pack from hobbyking, which I believe is a 3s 4200 25c, and it was totally insane. I only drove it on the street for a few minutes. All 4 tires would go pizza cutter instantly when you gun it, no matter how fast or slow you are already going. It was easily as fast as my 1/8 scale RC8T running on 5s with the castle 2200. Unfornately the pack was just a hair too wide at 50mm and it rubbed on the shaft for the slipper. So I haven't ran it again on 3s. I wouldn't say it was undriveable on 3s, you just would have to really baby it. I think it would be difficult to control on 3s on dirt, but maybe that's just me. On 3s it is the probably the fastest I've ever seen a off-road 1/10 scale go...If your running on a high traction surface you might be OK. Good luck!

nathanio

Just a quick update on my Sparrowhawk.

Still absolutely loving this truck; it's nuts

I have made some changes of late and they are:

I have rebuilt my diffs and have gone with 10k front and 7k rear now as the rear was unloading to much for my liking. I still get the great off power steering response but less wasted wheelspin.

I have also rebuilt my shocks and gone with green slime in the o-rings, 55wt all round and black medium front and red hard springs. This has helped to cure my on power understeer (but could be better, perhaps need a sway bar at the rear) and proved great at the local skate park jumping and stuff. Loved the handling and jumping ability

Was going great until I jumped badly and landed noise first into the tarmac from 10ft and around 20mph! One front busted bulkhead later and it stopped my fun. This is the one weakpoint imo.

I have also changed to the 4mm gold bullet connectors and swapped to a Dynamite C4 4600Kv (rebadged Castle). I have also started using the Turnigy 5000MAh 30c-40c 2s LiPo packs and the punch is unbelievable. I also recently tried 3s and man alive she was hurtling around like something possessed!

I have also swapped the servo for a BlueBird 10.2Kg job and that makes a big difference to the overall truck imo. The stock 1903MG is a little weak with larger tyres.

I have also added a different battery retention system:



This was made out of some angled alu strip and will use velcro straps to retain the battery. It allows me to use the larger HobbyKing batteries and also use 2s in parallel





I also made some Lexan mudshields for the rear wishbones to stop the rear driveshafts and shocks from getting covered in crap. I didn't get any pictures though.

I also have some HPI Geolanders to go on but waiting for rims.

So breakdown of current setup is:

ESC: MTroniks G2 Pro (Waterproof)
Motor: Dynamite C4 4600Kv
Battery: Turnigy 2s 30c 5000MAh or Flightmax 3s 30c 5000MAh
Radio: Ansmann 2.4GHz radio
Servo: BMS-616DMG+HS (10.2KG/0.12 60deg)
Pinion: 22T
Spur: 72T
Front diff weight: 10000k
Rear diff weight: 7000k
Slipper setting: 6.5mm
Bearings: ABEC35
Wheels/Tyres: RPM Slingshots/Pro-Line Gladiators
Front Shocks: Fastrax black springs with 55wt
Rear Shocks: Fastrax Red hard springs with 55wt

May gear up further yet as the motor is getting hot while ESC is cool

Little video of it running 2s versus 3s that I made. On 3s the rear fishtails quite badly due to the fact I had it setup stiff for the skate park

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKLd__7zZw8[/youtube]

jamie007

Yep, I'm running 7k in the fron and 5k in the back, works good but I think it needs heavier wt... I friend of mine just picked one up, I suggested using 10k front and 7k rear and seems to work really good for him. I'm using associated FT shocks and I was getting a lot of understeer and once I softened up the front springs (blue fronts, gold rear, 45wt) it helped quite a bit, but it's still there. Good idea standing up your pack! The Turnigy 3s pack I have rubbed on the center shaft that I haven't been able to use...so standing it up will make it usuable. Just worried about the high center of gravity? Is it still stable with your pack(s) like that? On the track this thing rips! Eat's 2wd's for breakfast! Love this truck, just takes a few enhancements to make it competitive. Have you guys seen the SC version?

http://www.tiger.com.tw/product/6568-F.html

nathanio

Hi Jamie,

I might try some light springs on the front then as I do still have some power on understeer.

I didn't like the fact that the LiPos rubbed either and so whilst looking at some 1/8 eBuggies I decided to try the vertical placement.

It works really well and I haven't noticed any problems with the added weight higher up.

2x2s does make the truck lean slightly so requires a touch more preload on the right side.

I have seen the SC version and am planning on fitting the front and rear bumpers when they become available. I have checked and not available yet

kshoopman

I was wondering if you guys that have changed to diff fluid have any problems with leakage.
Also curious on the SC version why Thunder Tiger would put out a 1/12 scale truck when all the other are 1/10th?

nathanio

Not checked recently but not a problem as far as I am aware. I may have a bit of seepage from the rear but on the whole ok. They are gasket sealed so they should be ok.

Reason the Sparrohawk DT12 is a 12th scale is becuase the '1/10th' scale SCs (i.e. Slash, SC10 etc) are actually massive and more like 1/8.5th scale! A Slash is massive compared the likes of a 1/10th buggy and the Slash body has been used in 1/8th e-buggy SC conversion it is that large.

The DT12 looks like it is based off the XB chassis and not the XT chassis so makes it smaller than the other 1/10th SC trucks.

kshoopman

Nice video Nathanio.
I know the slash and other sc trucks are massive but you would think that TTR would want their truck running with them in the same class.

jamie007

Yeah that is wierd, but TTR always kinda went to the beat of its own drum, which is cool in some aspects, but makes it hard for them really to become popular. Not sure why they would do that with SC being so popular, like they are trying to make a new class?

u2pop

Hello newbie here, I've been reading this thread as I just purchased Sparrowhawk XXB. You guys been suggesting to threadlock those set screws on all of the drive cups and center shaft cups. Can someone pointing me out where this part is please? Thank U

jamie007

Basically anywhere there is a dogbone, Both ends of the center shaft, and where the front and rear diff's meet the dogbones/CVD. You also might want to grind a flat spot on the center shaft near where the spur gear is, for the set screw. If you don't the drive cup might slip.

u2pop

Thanks for your prompt reply jamie007. I'll cross check with pics in manual book for references. I'm very new to this hobby

jamie007

Welcome to the club! Glad I could help! This car does need a lot of tweeking to make it competitive against the competition, but once you get it dialed in, it's awesome! Good luck!

Pedeman

Hey guys just thought I would share the work I done on my sparrowhawk today. I dont have a million dollars for the carbonfibre parts that TTR has to offer, so I bought a sheet of CF and made my own! The top plate is next... Want this car to be as light as possible with the lightest battery and motor.

genitor

That looks really good. What tools did you use on the carbon fiber?

Pedeman

Thanks! I used a dremel with a few different bits for cutting and finishing off. For holes I just used steel drill bits and a steel countersunk bit for the bottom countersunks. The carbonfibre I ordered from Hobycity. Good quality CF.

jamie007

Looks awesome! How are you going to secure the battery pack?

Pedeman

Well I was thinking of just velcro and then maybe a rubber strap or something...my friend converted his revo to an e-revo and just plainly used velcro to hold the battery down. It works surprisingly well!

mc4798

My Feedback: (8)

Very nice looking and running truck !

Just won a xt on fleabay and already have the xxb

Has anyone pruchased the TTR threaded shocks ? I was thinking about getting some because the price is very good just wondered how they held up .

Lets see some filled out setup sheets guys

rufus2000

great work,

at over $70usd for the TT cf chassis it sure helps to make your own.

I did try hobbicity but only found a 300x100mm wide sheets, very small

anyone know another source? I'd like to try an make a chassis myself, would look super cool, plus it would have space for the bigger lipos

xxxtcr

looking for some info on turning one of these into a 4wd corr truck, can someone point me in the right direction?

mc4798

My Feedback: (8)

Gonna have to fabricate a chassis, maybe make some bulkheads because of the width of the xt arms

Find a center diff to mount in it.

I would save up and buy a slash or ofna.

jamie007

Why don't you just buy some of the parts for the Thunder Tiger COR Truck and convert yours?

http://www.tiger.com.tw/product/6568-F.html

traxxrc1

Hey guyz i installed a eZrun BL setup and a 3S lipo on my sparrowhawk XT and my stock plastic spur gear didn't lasted even 10 mins.

Pls tell me if it is because of improper gear mesh or is it that BL power needs a metal gear...!

Can u suggest me some metal spur gear for this car..?

mc4798

My Feedback: (8)

Im guessing it was proably gear mesh.

Friend told me to set gear mesh by getting the gears as close as possible without actually touching. That has been the best way for me and have not had any issues with mesh since.

You can use associated t4/b4 spur gears and slipper pads if you like. The 72t version anyway.
You will have to drill center of spur gear out to 5mm and add a shim as they are thinner.