Brainanator

My Feedback: (1)

That is an excellent idea...I wanted to try a larger pinion (for street running only) in my slash, but I couldn't loosen the darn hex screw in the existing pinion, so I gave up after rounding 2 hex wrenches (correct sizes) and a breaking a small torx driver.
If I really want to try that pinion, I'll try the superglue method.

overrev

Be careful not to super glue the wrench and the set screw to the pinion. It is easier to just drill it out,takes less time.

IloveMYxt2

Actually heat sinks work a lot better than 1 or 2 degrees

harrier

My Feedback: (2)

Well after battling with getting the grub screw out of the 23T pinion I was finally able to put a 16T on with the 90T spur to try that combo. Still running way hot and getting thermal shutdown after about 3 min if running. I have a 12T pinion but it is wasn't meshing with the spur and later found out it was the wrong pitch. I moved the ESC to the side of the truck opposite the receiver as it was on top where the original ESC was. Was hoping that turning the ESC so that the fins running parallel to the length of the truck would help with the cooling. This last attempt was with the top off as has been most of my tests. I'm going to order a 12T that will work and try that.

JUSTPASSEDU

My Feedback: (20)

if your motor got over 200 degrees it is already prob worthless as once it gets that hot it starts to de - magnatize , also cut some holes in your body leading to the esc so air can get to it while your running . it may help , i have a mamba max and vxl motor on my slash currently running 22/86 gearing with no problems at all ... good luck

Orion1024

That set screw is a metric 1.5mm...try using a 1/16" hex wrench to remove it. Before you try it, heat the pinion with a butane torch until you see the Loctite start to smoke. You may need to repeat this several times.

Orion1024

This is a common misconception...that's the recommended max temp, but not the temp at which the magnets are damaged. This temp would be, at a minimum, 210F. Most motors use magnets that are good for much higher temperatures, like 250F+. I've seen two Velineon motors hit 245 with no damage to the magnets. [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWWW9&P=7]Here's[/link] another example...check out the 'Magnetic Material Operating Temp' spec.

Orion1024

If you mean my setup, I'll agree with that. The heatsinks were good for maybe a 10 degree drop and the fan took off another 30F+.

harrier

My Feedback: (2)

The motor has been over 200 several times and I did see a 240+ temp a week or so ago which really was the reasoning behind my initial post. If a motor demagnatizes will it still run and just over heat or not run at all? My motor seems to run great until the ESC gets in the 200's like the motor. If I let the car sit there powered on after a thermal shutdown, after a few min I hear the Mamba startup sequence and it will run again. When I heard that I did a temp reading on the ESC and it was 170 something.

All this testing has been with no body on the chassis. It's all open. Now, is running electric vehicles like computers where you need the case on the computer for maximum air flow? I told some guys that worked for me in a datacenter that the cases needed to remain on the servers when there were in operation or they would overheat. They didn't believe me until one over heated when it was run hard with the case off. Put the case on and no issues. I know they are not related but just pulling at straws.

In the Slash setup... what Lipos are you using specifically? Mah, burst rate, cell count....?

Orion1024

If it's only taking a few minutes before your ESC thermals, I'd say the motor is cooked. My motor would hit 200F, but it took about 15mins to get there. Don't bother with trying a 12T pinion...it's not going to help. As long as you are in the acceptable gearing range for your setup, gearing down is going to make little difference in temps. Trust me, I've tried it. These motors just aren't efficient enough to stay at reasonable temps on 3S without additional cooling. The motor's inefficiency is the problem, not the gearing. My suggestion is to either get the aluminum transmission case or a good fan and buy a new motor. Don't even run that new motor until you have a cooling solution installed and ready to go. Also, clip-on heatsinks alone aren't going to cut it. You need either a fan or the trans case.

Traxxas4fun

My Feedback: (3)

im just wondering. how do i get fans to work, i bought an integy fan for my motor, and i have a traxxas 2ch rx+ battery channel it has the bec, its the xl-5 old rx..

the plug for the fan wont run go i on the rx?