aluminum parts vs plastic parts
#1
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aluminum parts vs plastic parts
I was wondering which is more beneficial for bashing and racing. I see that some people us plastic parts and swear by them and I see some people swear by aluminum. Is there a better advantage to going aluminum then plastic and visa versa. thanks D
#2
RE: aluminum parts vs plastic parts
Plastic is what you want for bashing, and aluminum seems to me to be more for show. The plastic parts will flex and return to normal shape under stress, and if they stress too hard they will break. That's okay because plastic parts are really cheap to replace. When aluminum stresses, it's in general less likely to bend and break, but, if it bends, it won't return to its original shape. im no expert just my knowledge on the subject.
Check out [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8970893/anchors_8970893/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#8970893]THIS[/link] thead for a lot of discussion on the aluminum vs plastic battle.
Check out [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8970893/anchors_8970893/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#8970893]THIS[/link] thead for a lot of discussion on the aluminum vs plastic battle.
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RE: aluminum parts vs plastic parts
When aluminum is used in place of plastic, it will break at the next weakest point. For example, if you would normaly break a plastic a arm, with aluminum, it would either break the mount or chassis, posibly both. A arms are cheap, chassis can get expencive.
I use aluminum arm mounts and plastic arms.
I use aluminum arm mounts and plastic arms.
#6
RE: aluminum parts vs plastic parts
ORIGINAL: OvalRacer99
When aluminum is used in place of plastic, it will break at the next weakest point. For example, if you would normaly break a plastic a arm, with aluminum, it would either break the mount or chassis, posibly both. A arms are cheap, chassis can get expencive.
I use aluminum arm mounts and plastic arms.
When aluminum is used in place of plastic, it will break at the next weakest point. For example, if you would normaly break a plastic a arm, with aluminum, it would either break the mount or chassis, posibly both. A arms are cheap, chassis can get expencive.
I use aluminum arm mounts and plastic arms.
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RE: aluminum parts vs plastic parts
I would suggest very little in the way of aluminum in the slash as it's a pretty durable basher as is. The only place I recommend using aluminum is in those areas where you want stiffness. That's not to say I haven't fallen prey to the "bling" factor in some hop ups. I just don't typically do them to off road bashers, mostly my on road touring cars.
#10
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RE: aluminum parts vs plastic parts
ORIGINAL: Daholla77
So If you were rebuilding a slash what parts would you go Aluminum and what parts would you go plastic?
So If you were rebuilding a slash what parts would you go Aluminum and what parts would you go plastic?
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RE: aluminum parts vs plastic parts
Most alloy parts are for show tbh but for the slash i would upgrade the hub carriers to alloy,also boiling plastic parts will help them bend alittle better and not crack or split in a smash
When you replace certain parts for alloy it only adds stress to the next part causing more damage down the line
When you replace certain parts for alloy it only adds stress to the next part causing more damage down the line
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RE: aluminum parts vs plastic parts
if your running a decent motor you may want to think about aluminium or metal motor mounts, ive heard stories of plastic ones warping..
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RE: aluminum parts vs plastic parts
Racers don't want flex, they want stiffness. Aluminum means less 'slop', it means faster recovery or righting of the vehicle, better repeatability or consistency in handling, etc. Graphite and carbon fiber are also favored for the same reason. The stiffer parts are more brittle, they break easier, but racers, at least experienced racers, are willing to sacrifice durability for getting a slight advantage over their peers.
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RE: aluminum parts vs plastic parts
IMO, if you can buy the part from RPM, then buy the RPM part. I've never seen an RPM piece break and the lifetime warranty is very comforting. I, for the most part, don't like using much aluminium. Hub carriers, a-arm mounts, and a few other random pieces are nice to have in aluminium for both rigidity, lack of wear, and durability. Aluminium shock towers, a-arms, bumpers, etc... aren't really necessary and will probably just end up getting bent eventually. Aluminium is also almost always going to be heavier than it's plastic or carbon counterparts.
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RE: aluminum parts vs plastic parts
The only place i use aluminum is bulkheads and a arm mounts. I would rather break the arm which can be replaced in a couple minutes.
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RE: aluminum parts vs plastic parts
Rpm have a good rep, but they aren't infallible. Their Slash rear hubs are weaker than stock, and their rc18 bumpers are known for shattering easily.
STRC make seriously high quality Slash parts, would not hesitate to put those on in place of plastic. In fact I didn't. I've got a good portion of the catalogue on mine, never so much as popped one of their shock caps.
STRC make seriously high quality Slash parts, would not hesitate to put those on in place of plastic. In fact I didn't. I've got a good portion of the catalogue on mine, never so much as popped one of their shock caps.
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RE: aluminum parts vs plastic parts
ORIGINAL: Lilredmachine
Rpm have a good rep, but they aren't infallible. Their Slash rear hubs are weaker than stock, and their rc18 bumpers are known for shattering easily.
Rpm have a good rep, but they aren't infallible. Their Slash rear hubs are weaker than stock, and their rc18 bumpers are known for shattering easily.
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RE: aluminum parts vs plastic parts
believe what you will, their plastic is also not particularly resistant to cold temperatures.
That's another point about plastic/aluminium parts, plastic parts tend to change properties in different heat. Plastic will become more brittle in cold weather and softer in warmer weather, alloy will not.
Takedown and Brushlessboy both break RPM bumpers like they were made from chalk.
That's another point about plastic/aluminium parts, plastic parts tend to change properties in different heat. Plastic will become more brittle in cold weather and softer in warmer weather, alloy will not.
Budget monty: I have broken 2 of the RPM rear bearing carriers in the last 2 days. They fixed where the stock ones break by beefing it up there, but the RPM ones both broke right in the middle of the bearing area on mine. I already have the RPM arms and front Caster and steering blocks coming, but it looks like I need to get the aluminum rears. Anyone bend them, or are they pretty bulletproof? I am not a racer, I just need durability as I beat my truck hard.
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RE: aluminum parts vs plastic parts
The Tamiya DF-02 is known for weak shock towers.
I have used the same set of Yeah racing alloy towers for three years. Yes they have bent, but I have been able to straighten them.
Think about the application read the forums and decide for yourself if Alloy is better or not for what you need, I don't think there is one right answer......
I have also made some custom parts from alloy sheet including shock tower braces for a tl-01B, a wing mount for DF-02, steering parts, RX brackets and antennae mounts. For me this is another part of the hobby which I enjoy and can do when its raining, dark or both .
Just my observations.........
Hedgie
I have used the same set of Yeah racing alloy towers for three years. Yes they have bent, but I have been able to straighten them.
Think about the application read the forums and decide for yourself if Alloy is better or not for what you need, I don't think there is one right answer......
I have also made some custom parts from alloy sheet including shock tower braces for a tl-01B, a wing mount for DF-02, steering parts, RX brackets and antennae mounts. For me this is another part of the hobby which I enjoy and can do when its raining, dark or both .
Just my observations.........
Hedgie
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RE: aluminum parts vs plastic parts
I would go alloy in any sort of bulkhead, arm mount, hub or knuckle, even pullys for belt driven on-roads. Shock tower will depend on what car or truck it is.
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RE: aluminum parts vs plastic parts
Most aluminum parts are just for the bling factor, yeah aluminum bulkheads is a must have, having
that strengthens the other parts. Never tried boiling plastic parts to make them stronger might have to try that
sometime. People used to do that in the old days whenever the RC10 came out, but I dont know
if I should boil my B44 a-arms or not. Might not work. I know I have not broken one in a long time.
Aluminum caster blocks usually come in handy since you normally have more mounting holes for setups.
I bought the plastic caster blocks for my 501x and thier's only 1 mounting hole, so I just left the aluminum ones
on there.
that strengthens the other parts. Never tried boiling plastic parts to make them stronger might have to try that
sometime. People used to do that in the old days whenever the RC10 came out, but I dont know
if I should boil my B44 a-arms or not. Might not work. I know I have not broken one in a long time.
Aluminum caster blocks usually come in handy since you normally have more mounting holes for setups.
I bought the plastic caster blocks for my 501x and thier's only 1 mounting hole, so I just left the aluminum ones
on there.