strtzpmp

i have a reciept for my slash 4x4 and parts...$2000 and ten more purchases since then....its never enough

3W flyer

how can you spend $2000 on this car?? maybe replace everything with titanium and get the best BL setup you can lol.

strtzpmp

traxxas didnt make it clear that the2wd and 4x4partsarent compatible.....i could almost build a 2wd slash with the upgrades that i thought would fit the 4x4....but now i fabricated the parts to fit (some) i have 5 sets of wheels also...herespics of THEPACKAGE!

simplecj

RPM has clearly stated that the 2wd parts don't work on the 4x4 version.... Some sellers are pretty bad about listing details like that though. I had to resell a whole set of RPM arms, skid plates, and bumpers because of that... lost money on it too.

When looking for parts for this truck, make sure that it says "Slash 4x4", if it just says Slash then look elsewhere or do some research to see if it fits the 4x4.

overrev

Everyone should know that most 2wd parts don't fit the 4x4 since traxxas had stated that the truck was redesigned. A little research goes a long way.

3W flyer

[X(] thats a lot of parts! lol, thats gonna take some time to put on the car!

strtzpmp

i bought that 3 days after slash 4x4 was released.....no one really knew if they did or not.....

simplecj

Ya, there's definitely a draw-back to jumping into a new model before all the bugs are dealt with and other companies can design parts for them. I kinda wish they could have just named it something else to avoid the confusion. There's a bigger difference between the 4x4 and the 2x4 as there is between a Bandit and a Rustler. Change the body, add a body mount and a Bandit is a Rustler, practically the same truck, same with the Stampede. The Slash 4x4 and 2x4... not really the case, major differences... the 2wd version is closer to a Rustler than it is to the 4x4.

Whatever though. Now we know the difference and it is pretty much 100% improvement over the 2x4... we just have to be careful shoppers

overrev

I saw the 4x4 truck on there web site way before they released it and if you looked you would have known it was way different than the 2x4. Not bashing anyone but the information was out before they released it.

strtzpmp

never seen the 2wd before soo i was SOL i guess lol

Frostbyte

so a local hobby shop was closing down today, i went to check it out and bought some proline 3 piece beadlock wheels for my 4x4 slash, or so i thought they were for a 4x4 slash since the sign said they were. got them dirt cheap, but the hex hub on the wheels are 14mm, and significantly larger than the slash 4x4 ones. anyone know where i can get some 14mm hex hubs that will fit the slash 4x4, or am i out of luck? i tried the hpi aluminum ones, and they dont work.... any help would be great!

-Erik

Brainanator

My Feedback: (1)

Those beadlocks are for the Slayer Frostbyte. I haven't seen the slash 4x4 hexes, nor have I seen the slayer hexes, but you might be able to just grab some slayer hexes and pop them on the 4x4....don't quote me on that though.

strtzpmp

towerhobbies.com just need to get the 14mm hexs and pins...some are aluminum and only 6 bucks a set of 4! might have to enlarge ur pin hole on the wheel hub for the pin to fit if its larger...but i dont think u will....also u will have more options for wheel combos. BTW just got some 5 star (like a stock chevelle ss rim)2.2 rims and proline mashers.....going to cut the tread lines in like the masher 2000s for batter stability and traction.

Mods recently done (will have pics tommorow)multiple external 35v low-esr capacitors for Esc(level out voltage spikes, can now use 5s without worries)and a second set for RX (reduce glitching, smoother operation) added radioshack battery holder for BEC might get a second for modding...servos throw like crackhead in a fight and center like a monklol

XERUN 80aESCRATEDFOR4S LIPOS, MODDINGEXTERNALCAPACITORSANDUSINGABECTOUSE5S-6S WILLVIODTHEWARRENTY!!!!
^although the warrenty says no and it is rated for 4s xerun esc are very underated and can handle much more than the company will warrant. (IDONOT take blame for any damage you do to your esc if you choose to mod it like i have, do so at YOUROWNRISK!!)

Also-the slash 4x4 radio has 5 channels programmed but no switch or buttons to use channels 3-4?-5. channels are only on or off not porportional!....theres a thread online if you search through google about this. I am wiring mine for all 5 channels tommorow and installing switches for them on my tx (requires drilling). I will be using them for a winch (3rd CH), Lights (4th CH), and trying to find a way to turn on and off the slash 4x4 itself from ONLY thr TX.

Anyone know what battery plugs into the slot inside the TX? maybe a 2s lipo? or what is the space and that connector for??

Anyone know of a cheap Gyro for drifting/keeping controlfrom say hobbycity or some chinese knockoff? would a headlock gyro work?

which would be better to use- a 2x 2s lipoin series(small/lightwieght/cheap) for4s or a 4s1p pack (thick and bulky/heavy....the series for 4s i thought would be better becuase you can position the batteries for balance and focus more on lcg than you could with 1 4s lipo that just would sit on one side....but idk, whats your opinion


Happy Modding!

it8ezbngrn

Anyone notice the slop front to back in the Spur/Slipper assembly? I am shimming the rear side of the slipper so that it sits forward more into the bearing and the motormount. Take your your rear off and let the slipper/Spur rest in there. put a lil pressue on it and feel the "fan blades" of teh slipper hit the rear end housing. When its together you can more your spur back and forth. The more it come away from that bearing and or motor mount the more it can wobble. Check it out.

birdman1968

I noticed a little play in my driveline as well . Although I have the c fiff , not the slipper clutch . I figured out that I was misssing the teflon washer that is seated on the rear diffferential bearing where the back of the cdiff slides in . Same teflon washer that is used to shim the hex hubs .

I actually put the washer on the front of the cfiff housing, before the bearing that slides into the motor mount , when I first put in the cdifff . Big mistake ,the teflon washer lathed the cdiff housing . Had to get a new one !! That was when the part was backorderd as well !!! doh !

Everything together now , and I also have a spare C Diff as well . Got a few extra spur gears for my c diff as well , and all is good in Slash 4x4 Land !!

Got the truck dialed in with caliber m3 tires, losi springs .and most of the slayden set up sheet . Turning out fast laps at the track and nailing the big jumps no problem with 2S 35C 5000MAH LiPo .

Ready for some stock class racing .

it8ezbngrn

Well its been said that the slop in the blue shaft is for chassis flex. But in the center dif area whether you're running the slipper of diff having the spur able to float around in not good. If it backs up and the chassis flexes it looks like it could hit the top of the chassis and or bind on the rear diff. Ill take a pic and post it of my washer spacer. I also dont care for it moving back and forth along the pinion. It doesnt have to be teflon since nothing is spining against it. It just needs to take up the slack slack betwen the slipper plate and the rear diff input. I don't know how this will work if I go to the Revo Slipper. I do suspect that since the revo slipper uses the 2nd hole that it must sit further forward. I dont see an advantage to it unless you're using the new Heavy duty optional revo slipper. I have a Revo slipper from a brushless revo and the pads are the same size only the diameter of the slipper plate is larger. I know that using the revo plate will prevent the slipper plate from ever rubbing on the rear diff but I'm not sure how to prevent the slop with that set up at this time. I not too concerned since my slipper should be acting as a safety and not a torq control device. Thats what EXP (on Futaba) or punch control is for. I am going to run the 52T spur since it clears the top of the chassis better and makes it easier to remove and less chance of ever hitting anything, As it is now the 54T spur almost hits the top of the grey chassis where the black motor mount attaches. Its also real close to the bottom of the rear diff skid plate that slides into the chassis. What it really needs is a longer slipper assembly shaft and a 52T Spur. I'll take a pic cause you cant just slap a teflon washer ion top of the slipper plate, it actually has to sit over it a bit and not extend out too far. To thick of a washer and it will bind or not allow the rear to line up with the screw holes in the chassis. Like i said it should rest where the slipper plates locking pin is and not extend past the layer behind it. If you lay the washer over the rear diffs input, it should not cover the blue ring of that bearings seal. I foud a washer that does that and now I'm drilling the center to fit over the begging of the slipper plate and rest where the pin is. The thickness should be the same as the pin.

it8ezbngrn

One other thing. I think the truck is too light for wide tires such as the Stampede tires. Between the compound of the tire and its width and possibly too thick of an oil in the rear it does not grab traction. Stopping is the same. I think having a skinnier tire would put more pressier on the contact patch VS a wide tire with less pounds / inch pressure on it. Even with 50K wt oil the rear kicks out like a muscle car when under hard acceleration. With a less weight oil I get one wheel peels. So say no to the Pede tires.

Brainanator

My Feedback: (1)

I don't know anything about the traxxas 2.4GHz that came with the 4x4, but if you're Tx takes 8AA you can get a 3S lipo to put in there:
[link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9787&aff=147258]I've got one of these and it is awesome.[/link]

as for the gyro, might be able to try this one out:
[link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10113&aff=147258]Gyro is in stock, Tx lipo is backordered for 110[/link]

edit: just found this car gyro, only a couple left...
http://hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store...ift_Maneuvers_

it8ezbngrn

If its the stock Traxxas 2.4Ghz then it takes four AA batteries. The same as a 6 volt RX pack. You could cut out the center divider fro more room. On one side is the + and the - input. Its the ones taht don't side out. All the other contacts slide out. Wire a female servo plug to that and run an RX pack.

HPI made a gyro for drifting.

simplecj

I like the bigger tires for dirt and general bashing... definately want smaller ones for street or if you're racing. I wish I had a track []

ScottKelly911

Excuse my ignorence but what benefits would one get by putting a gyro into a Slash 4x4?Would they be beneficial in racing applications or bashing? What exactly do they do?

strtzpmp

when sliding from 1/8th power when trying to go straight they countet the slide and give you much more controll of the slide or cornering abilty. u can drift easier...not legal for racing but can be pure fun for bashing and goup racing......kinda like a heli when flying...its nice for flying (no worrires about whipping and crashing) without it u mind as well break the heli with a hammer. no more effort for dirt racing on turns and great for low grip tires....some are just 15 bucks and some like the futuba are around 200-300 bucks

simplecj

I don't get it, what does a gyro actually do for a car?? You got steering and throttle.... that's it. I don't think your answer really explained it. What does it do and where does it plug/wire in at?

EDIT: I found this comment in another thread, thought it summed it up good enough:

Posted by Combatcm
"All it does is limits the turning angle because it senses the rotation of the car. It doesn't control it for you, you just adjust it for the tightest clean drifting circle. If the car is rotating too fast, it will make the turning angle closer to straight to help avoid it spinning out. It does not sense wheelspin or anything that has to do with too much power, just lateral axis rotation of the car.

If you are good enough, you don't need it."

Read more: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4086159/tm.htm#ixzz0ngezFK2L]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4086159/tm.htm#ixzz0ngezFK2L[/link]

it8ezbngrn

Here is the pic of te spacer I talked about above. Works!

Brainanator

My Feedback: (1)

here are some videos of a gyro in action:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRUVtJZXd2Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wk9qWSUe-7E
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzT6dftNK2w

Never seen one personally, but basically I think it just controls you steering servo to make sure you're car will go the direction you want it to, kinda....
They aren't just for drifting either, have you ever been going full blast, slammed the brakes and had the rear end kick out? a gyro would help with that. Same with taking off.

It might be fun to get a cheap HK one to play around with one day, but I wouldn't want to be dependent on it.