Great success. Make your own body shell!!!
05-29-2010, 12:38 AM
#26
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RE: Great success. Make your own body shell!!!
This is very cool!
Might be able to make some money of this process if one could come up with a sweet design.... Wonder how HPI feels about him stamping out copies of their work?
Might be able to make some money of this process if one could come up with a sweet design.... Wonder how HPI feels about him stamping out copies of their work?
05-29-2010, 02:55 AM
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RE: Great success. Make your own body shell!!!
I got the Plaster Of Paris, 25lb bags for $13.99ea at Anawalt Lumber, Igot 3 of them. I figured I better have plenty of it incase my first mold doesn't go as well as planned. If it does go well, I'll have some left over to do another mold. My plans for my mold/bodies are as follows. I'm going to use the Proline F-150 as the body to make the mold from. But I'm going to add some of my own flavor to it. I'm going to emboss two circles into the grill as if they were fog/driving lights similar to how mustangs have in their grills so I can run two LED's in there if Ichoose. I'm also going to fabricate a roof mounted light bar similar to the one from the Jconcepts Dare body that way I can run LED's on the track and not have the wires exposed to the beating thatIgive my trucks. I'll also figure out a way to make number plates for the sides of the bed. I'm also going to add some vents to the fenders again like those on the Jconcepts Dare body. If can figure out a way to do it, I may also try to add a hood scoop similar to a Shaker hood scoop also found on Mustangs. I may also try to emboss the grill into the mold to give a little extra detail. But that might have to wait until after the first mold is made just to keep the complexities to a minimum until Iget good at this. Here's some pix for reference of the different things I want to add together to make the ScottKelly Edition F-150. If all goes well, I might even try to sell a few of these bodies on Ebay or something. I've priced the .08" Polycarbonate and will be placing my order on Tuesday. The Polycarbonate comes in a sheet of 4'x8' and I'm having it cut down to 8 squares of 23 7/8" x 23 7/8". The reason it's not 24 x 24 is because they take into account the material lost in the cuts. So with any luck, I'll have my mold done by next week and the first body hopefully pulled by the end of next week, maybe the following week depending how the mold making goes.
Proline F-150 Body
Jconcepts Roof Mounted Lights and Fender Vents
Grill Mounted Lights
Shaker Hood Scoop
Proline F-150 Body
Jconcepts Roof Mounted Lights and Fender Vents
Grill Mounted Lights
Shaker Hood Scoop
05-29-2010, 11:15 AM
#28
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RE: Great success. Make your own body shell!!!
good luck, if you post on ebay make sure to give us a link! I might want to keep an eye on the price.... 
05-29-2010, 11:44 AM
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RE: Great success. Make your own body shell!!!
Good Luck x 2! I am curious how all this turns out for ya so make sure and throw some photos up when you are done along with letting us all know what some of the problems you ran into were!
05-29-2010, 12:39 PM
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RE: Great success. Make your own body shell!!!
ORIGINAL: Brainanator
good luck, if you post on ebay make sure to give us a link! I might want to keep an eye on the price....
good luck, if you post on ebay make sure to give us a link! I might want to keep an eye on the price....
ORIGINAL: Crumbshark
Good Luck x 2! I am curious how all this turns out for ya so make sure and throw some photos up when you are done along with letting us all know what some of the problems you ran into were!
Good Luck x 2! I am curious how all this turns out for ya so make sure and throw some photos up when you are done along with letting us all know what some of the problems you ran into were!
06-03-2010, 04:37 PM
#32
RE: Great success. Make your own body shell!!!
The problem with using very thick lexan when doing this is that it will be harder to form, and in sharp corners, thicker lexan tends to crack. For instance, the Proline Hummer H2 SUT body for larger MT's (MGT/Revo/Savage, etc. etc.) is very thick around the roof area, like at the corner of the roof/windshield/front doors. When you roll the truck on a hard surface like pavement, the lexan tends to crack. I've had two of their Hummer H2 SUT bodies and both had the same thing happen to them. Now if the body doesn't have almost 90* corners I doubt you would run into this problem with thicker lexan, but just a bit of warning there. Otherwise this is a great method and pretty much how big manufacturers do it, just on a much larger scale of course.
06-04-2010, 02:04 AM
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RE: Great success. Make your own body shell!!!
I'm planning on making my first mold this weekend (crosses fingers), then hopefully by the following weekend, I'll have my first body pulled. I'll keep ya guys up to date. I'd love to see if anyone else has attempted this and their results and or tips.
06-04-2010, 05:27 AM
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RE: Great success. Make your own body shell!!!
I was thinking wouldn't the thicker lexan be more ridgid making it break easier because it doesn't flex on impacts?
06-04-2010, 06:16 AM
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RE: Great success. Make your own body shell!!!
ORIGINAL: ScottKelly911
I got the Plaster Of Paris, 25lb bags for $13.99ea at Anawalt Lumber, I got 3 of them. I figured I better have plenty of it incase my first mold doesn't go as well as planned. If it does go well, I'll have some left over to do another mold. My plans for my mold/bodies are as follows. I'm going to use the Proline F-150 as the body to make the mold from. But I'm going to add some of my own flavor to it. I'm going to emboss two circles into the grill as if they were fog/driving lights similar to how mustangs have in their grills so I can run two LED's in there if I choose. I'm also going to fabricate a roof mounted light bar similar to the one from the Jconcepts Dare body that way I can run LED's on the track and not have the wires exposed to the beating that I give my trucks. I'll also figure out a way to make number plates for the sides of the bed. I'm also going to add some vents to the fenders again like those on the Jconcepts Dare body. If can figure out a way to do it, I may also try to add a hood scoop similar to a Shaker hood scoop also found on Mustangs. I may also try to emboss the grill into the mold to give a little extra detail. But that might have to wait until after the first mold is made just to keep the complexities to a minimum until I get good at this. Here's some pix for reference of the different things I want to add together to make the Scott Kelly Edition F-150. If all goes well, I might even try to sell a few of these bodies on Ebay or something. I've priced the .08'' Polycarbonate and will be placing my order on Tuesday. The Polycarbonate comes in a sheet of 4'x8' and I'm having it cut down to 8 squares of 23 7/8'' x 23 7/8''. The reason it's not 24 x 24 is because they take into account the material lost in the cuts. So with any luck, I'll have my mold done by next week and the first body hopefully pulled by the end of next week, maybe the following week depending how the mold making goes.
Proline F-150 Body
[img][/img]
Jconcepts Roof Mounted Lights and Fender Vents
[img][/img]
Grill Mounted Lights
[img][/img]
Shaker Hood Scoop
[img][/img]
I got the Plaster Of Paris, 25lb bags for $13.99ea at Anawalt Lumber, I got 3 of them. I figured I better have plenty of it incase my first mold doesn't go as well as planned. If it does go well, I'll have some left over to do another mold. My plans for my mold/bodies are as follows. I'm going to use the Proline F-150 as the body to make the mold from. But I'm going to add some of my own flavor to it. I'm going to emboss two circles into the grill as if they were fog/driving lights similar to how mustangs have in their grills so I can run two LED's in there if I choose. I'm also going to fabricate a roof mounted light bar similar to the one from the Jconcepts Dare body that way I can run LED's on the track and not have the wires exposed to the beating that I give my trucks. I'll also figure out a way to make number plates for the sides of the bed. I'm also going to add some vents to the fenders again like those on the Jconcepts Dare body. If can figure out a way to do it, I may also try to add a hood scoop similar to a Shaker hood scoop also found on Mustangs. I may also try to emboss the grill into the mold to give a little extra detail. But that might have to wait until after the first mold is made just to keep the complexities to a minimum until I get good at this. Here's some pix for reference of the different things I want to add together to make the Scott Kelly Edition F-150. If all goes well, I might even try to sell a few of these bodies on Ebay or something. I've priced the .08'' Polycarbonate and will be placing my order on Tuesday. The Polycarbonate comes in a sheet of 4'x8' and I'm having it cut down to 8 squares of 23 7/8'' x 23 7/8''. The reason it's not 24 x 24 is because they take into account the material lost in the cuts. So with any luck, I'll have my mold done by next week and the first body hopefully pulled by the end of next week, maybe the following week depending how the mold making goes.
Proline F-150 Body
[img][/img]
Jconcepts Roof Mounted Lights and Fender Vents
[img][/img]
Grill Mounted Lights
[img][/img]
Shaker Hood Scoop
[img][/img]
Just an FYI, .080 polycarbonate is a little too thick, I've tried it and it doesn't work very well. I've since bought some .060 and it looks like it should work much better have not tried this thickness yet.
10-14-2010, 11:33 PM
#36
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RE: Great success. Make your own body shell!!!
how did you go, i wanted to know how easy it is to to pop the mold out after its made.
i was thinking of using some kind of expandable foam, but i think it would stick inside the body kinda destroying your original.
i was thinking of using some kind of expandable foam, but i think it would stick inside the body kinda destroying your original.
10-15-2010, 03:10 AM
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RE: Great success. Make your own body shell!!!
Maybe plaster or something? Or do what i plan to do if i ever end up making one i'll prolly use the expendable foam one (since i'd be using it for 5t shells) mould that stuff to whatever shape i want and then pull a lexan cover over it to polish the last imperfections out and then use the entire thing with the lexan cover for a mould...
02-11-2018, 03:55 PM
#38
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVISj...eature=related
Just saw this on you tube, will definately try this when i get my blitz.
Just thought you might like to see it seeing as bodys can be pricy.
Just saw this on you tube, will definately try this when i get my blitz.
Just thought you might like to see it seeing as bodys can be pricy.
02-04-2019, 09:52 AM
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lorptor1
It takes more plaster than you think. I just casted a smaller 190mm touring car and it took 12 pounds of DAP plaster of paris to make it. A normal 1/10 scale buggy body will take less but you will be surprised how much it takes. The last thing you want to do is run out. The DAP plaster is a 2:1 mix. Two parts DAP to 1 part water.
Also I saw someone mentioning using Pam on the body as a mold release, well I would suggest strongly against it. Plaster of Paris is really absorbent and I would believe that you would damage the plaster with that product. On this model I am doing now after I get finished customizing it I will be clear coating it to seal it. At that point you could use Pam but I suggest a proper mold release.
It takes more plaster than you think. I just casted a smaller 190mm touring car and it took 12 pounds of DAP plaster of paris to make it. A normal 1/10 scale buggy body will take less but you will be surprised how much it takes. The last thing you want to do is run out. The DAP plaster is a 2:1 mix. Two parts DAP to 1 part water.
Also I saw someone mentioning using Pam on the body as a mold release, well I would suggest strongly against it. Plaster of Paris is really absorbent and I would believe that you would damage the plaster with that product. On this model I am doing now after I get finished customizing it I will be clear coating it to seal it. At that point you could use Pam but I suggest a proper mold release.
