Summit or E-Slayer or Slammit?
06-05-2010, 01:59 AM
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Summit or E-Slayer or Slammit?
I decided to convert my Summit to a 4x4 Slash/E-Slayer whatever thing. Got annoyed of the water that's been sitting stinking up in the stock tires and also saw this done by some one on the crawler forums which seemed interesting, so.... $150 later:
The motor in the pictures is an Aveox 915 Kv unit, I removed that and replaced it with my trusty Feigao 7XL 2300 Kv motor and just tested it around the house on 2s power, in high gear.
I reused the stock drive shafts by cutting them with my saw, unfortunately I eye-balled the width for each wheel axle like a cross-eyed old bat, so now I have 2 sets of half shaft axles that reach and mate up, and 2 that are 1/4" apart and therefore I have 1 axle on one side engaged in the back, and one in the front, so I need to fix that with another new stock set and cut it down.
Why mess with the drive shafts when I could by Slayer ones? Well I didn't feel like spending MORE money on a whole new set of Slayer shafts/stub axles, diff cups.
It weighs about as much if not a little more than my mostly stock old E-Maxx w/ 40 series wheels and low profile Crime Fighter tires. The Summit chassis itself is quite a handful in terms of weight.
Also, the shock springs are Slayer's, but the shocks themselves need thinner oil or more holes in the pistons. With the stock shock oil/piston setup the shocks are very slow moving especially with these lighter Slayer springs now.
The whole thing weighs about as much or more than my E-Maxx right now, with motor installed.
The motor in the pictures is an Aveox 915 Kv unit, I removed that and replaced it with my trusty Feigao 7XL 2300 Kv motor and just tested it around the house on 2s power, in high gear.
I reused the stock drive shafts by cutting them with my saw, unfortunately I eye-balled the width for each wheel axle like a cross-eyed old bat, so now I have 2 sets of half shaft axles that reach and mate up, and 2 that are 1/4" apart and therefore I have 1 axle on one side engaged in the back, and one in the front, so I need to fix that with another new stock set and cut it down.
Why mess with the drive shafts when I could by Slayer ones? Well I didn't feel like spending MORE money on a whole new set of Slayer shafts/stub axles, diff cups.
It weighs about as much if not a little more than my mostly stock old E-Maxx w/ 40 series wheels and low profile Crime Fighter tires. The Summit chassis itself is quite a handful in terms of weight.
Also, the shock springs are Slayer's, but the shocks themselves need thinner oil or more holes in the pistons. With the stock shock oil/piston setup the shocks are very slow moving especially with these lighter Slayer springs now.
The whole thing weighs about as much or more than my E-Maxx right now, with motor installed.
06-05-2010, 11:39 PM
#2
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RE: Summit or E-Slayer or Slammit?
A few pictures after getting it all assembled today. I still need to replace the thick 55-60 wt shock oil with some 30 wt and bring the shocks to life - as of right now they work but very slowly and the truck is bouncy.
I actually ran it with my Hack C50 "MM killer" 3600 Kv motor geared 15/72. Ran about 25-30 minutes from a nearly full charged 3s 5000 25C Turnigy lipo, down to 11.0 volts (didn't show signs of slowdown just yet but I got tired and it was hot!!). Mostly consisting of a few speed runs on road, then onto the grassy field, where I did most of the WOT passes and bad jumps and tumbles, the chassis and parts held together great. The heat was in control considering it was in the 90's today and humid. The test ESC was my 60A ZTW unit w/fan which stayed about 110*F or so, and the Hacker motor never breached 140*F for more than a few seconds at best. The battery reached 106*F when I measured it, probably due to the ambient heat more than anything.
It felt like I was under working the motor, so I can go up to an 18t pinion or keep the 15t and go up to 4s lipo power (whenever I get a capable ESC replacement for my faulty MM). Top speed today was barely 20-22 mph, the motor would max out very easily in a matter of couple seconds or 3 in second gear.
The truck was pretty tipsy, partly due to the tall stance mostly up front, due to wrong shock setup, and narrow track width due to the zero offset buggy wheels (I didn't know any better when buying those). Next stop for me is wider offset wheels and 30 wt oil most importantly so I can get the suspension to actually move more freely and probably help the stance some too (the softer shocks would allow the springs to move better hopefully bringing the ride height down some - yes I know shock oil thickness doesn't directly make the shocks move up or down more but it does help free up the action).
I actually ran it with my Hack C50 "MM killer" 3600 Kv motor geared 15/72. Ran about 25-30 minutes from a nearly full charged 3s 5000 25C Turnigy lipo, down to 11.0 volts (didn't show signs of slowdown just yet but I got tired and it was hot!!). Mostly consisting of a few speed runs on road, then onto the grassy field, where I did most of the WOT passes and bad jumps and tumbles, the chassis and parts held together great. The heat was in control considering it was in the 90's today and humid. The test ESC was my 60A ZTW unit w/fan which stayed about 110*F or so, and the Hacker motor never breached 140*F for more than a few seconds at best. The battery reached 106*F when I measured it, probably due to the ambient heat more than anything.
It felt like I was under working the motor, so I can go up to an 18t pinion or keep the 15t and go up to 4s lipo power (whenever I get a capable ESC replacement for my faulty MM). Top speed today was barely 20-22 mph, the motor would max out very easily in a matter of couple seconds or 3 in second gear.
The truck was pretty tipsy, partly due to the tall stance mostly up front, due to wrong shock setup, and narrow track width due to the zero offset buggy wheels (I didn't know any better when buying those). Next stop for me is wider offset wheels and 30 wt oil most importantly so I can get the suspension to actually move more freely and probably help the stance some too (the softer shocks would allow the springs to move better hopefully bringing the ride height down some - yes I know shock oil thickness doesn't directly make the shocks move up or down more but it does help free up the action).
