am I the only one?
 

Am I the only one who HATES these dumbass hex screws!?! My 1.5 and 2.0 hex screws keep rounding out, ive done them by hand all the time. So its not like they r getting too tight. I dont like them. I just got out the dremel and cut a slot into the heads to make them a flat head screw :/

And on top of those stupid screws my shock tower on my exo managed to snap in 4 places *angry face*

Anyone else have problems with these useless screws.? Ive tried both metric and standard and torx(star) wrenches and they r just terrible. The screws r the 1.5 so standard? I guess, 1.5 is what fits best not the 3/16 or whatever it is.

ive got tons of em with dremill cuts in the top so i can use a flat head because they suck so bad the small 1.5mm suck the worst

Oh yeah, and of coarse thats all the exo uses! Well ranging from 1.5-2.5

Hey this could turn into a pet peeves thread about our beloved rcs!

For example mine is, as mentioned, those stupid screws.

oh ya try pulling your motor after you round out the grub screw ive hit a few pinions with a drill or grinder before it sucks

Don't worry I hate hex screws too... I wish they would use torx screws. They don't strip as easy as single hex and Phillips head

few years ago I brought a pinion puller.... Best investment ever. If the pinions grub screw is striped, u just use the puller to remove it. And once the pinion is removed generally is easy to remove and replace the grub screw. It's saved my but 3 times now...I've really got to stop using red lock tight.... Lol

what they have a puller for that i want one at $6 a pinion it should be worth it

I'm actually a big fan of hex screws. I don't like crappy ones (I won't name names), but I do like good ones (stainless rcscrewz). If you have good drivers, maybe that makes a difference too?

i should also mention hsp/litehawk uses all metric hex screws then they use std grub screws just to **** you around a bit you also need 2 different sizes of Phillips screw drivers to work on em without striping everything
at least my losi only needed 2 different alen keys and 1 socket to rebuild it
BTW who here has lost there only 1.5 alen key in the dirt away from home that sucks so bad

I've got an issue using stainless steel on RC's mainly cause they use a lot of aluminum so there is a high chance one of the stainless steel screws will be hitting aluminum, and cause galvanic corrosion. I only know of this cause many years ago in High school my physics teacher had a car that had an stainless steel bumpter bolted to an aluminum bracket, and it rotted off his car 2 times before he noticed the issue(it was some weird unpopular car).

So you mean if your stainless screws on the vehicle smack into random aluminum pieces while driving? Weird. Or that they rub against alum upgrades on the RC itself?

I like the ones I have since they seem pretty tough (no stripping out issues over several years of use and rebuilds), and they don't corrode like the crappy black ones can after you run in the snow and just let it sit upside down to dry. They look nice. :)

I hate them. My Traxxas Rustler has the worst and possibly cheapest hex screws. My 80's Kyosho cars had better quality screws in it. One was all Philips screws and I loved it.

i love them. it's phillips screws i royally hate on my RC's. iv never had a big problem with hex's. on occasion iv had to hack on one with a dremel and remove it with a flathead screwedriver. but it's always been do to crappy tools jacking up the head of the screw (for most of my life iv used the kit supplied L wrenches). phillips screws always seemed cheap to me. like toy grade cars had them... hex screws always make a kit feel better finished/more refined/more professional/more advanced/higher end.

I mean the ones mounted to aluminum that are normally in contact with it. Like for instance holding parts onto a aluminum chassis the metal would corrode slowly (well faster if gotten wet) where they join.
I will be 100% honest I have no idea how long it would take could be months to years (well that would affect you if you ever stored it for a length of time) Now if you don't plan on owning the RC in 2-5 years then hell it don't matter or think you will have to replace the aluminum, and stainless steel screws from damage.

Weird, never heard of that. Hmm, I've had stainless in my 801xt (dralum chassis, alum motor mounts, alum shock towers, alum steering) and I haven't seen that for 2+ years. I'll keep an eye out for it though.

My drivers r brand new I bought them specificly for my exo cuz I didnt have any hex drivers.
i wouldnt mind it if they,had made the screws that they new would be taken out alot would be something like a flat head or phillips( like shocks, and for my exo the screws that hold to cage on) other things like the body panels and motor mount things like that would be ok as a hex...
Another thing that is annoying, is I work at discount tire so im used to bolting tires on fast(like nascar ;)) the wheel nuts dont fit into the opening on my drill where the driver goes, like phillips flat head hex torx. Ive got a drill I bought when I first got into these cars and it turns super slow(like 100rpm?) but is very strong. Obviously I wouldnt tighten tge nuts with the drill in just sayin. When I have to make a quick feilld repair or need to move the botom of the shocks around or swap wheels all that hand turning is time consuming and my wife looks at me like *** r u doing when im turning my t-wrench a thousand times ha

No one says anything about good quality tools here, using those useless L-wrenches will only round the screws once you think about tightening them. No screws are better than the tools you use on them, that is my conclusion.

Mine were bran-spankin new though. Ive had some hex wrenches that come rounded they arent all straight edged like the one I have now.

Well if you buy a good set that isn't an issue like I bought Husky ones that were made for HD work they worked well without ever even starting to round, and I used them to take out quite a few screws that were red locted in(bought a used RC that the dude used red on everything...) and they still look new (well the 2mm does have some wear from being put in and out)
Did get a driver after awhile, but the L-wrench set has lasted me a good time.

Now those cheap pieces of crap the RC companies give which round off after 3 uses are another story those are worthless.

the worlds best Allen keys will wear out eventually.....
.
but im my experance its got nothing to do with the quality of the tool.... its all to do with the quality of the fastener.

Don't know about u guys but I generally round the screw before the tool


Personally I think everything should have torx buts
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...20-T25-T30.jpg

Hudy hex drivers are the best I have used.

I agree w/phmaximus torx heads r the best. Ive never had a problen with them

IMO, Torx are only slightly better than Phillips, which should NEVER be used in RC. I hate Phillips. I have no problem with hex fasteners. I have learned from experience that the tools you use are more important. Hudy would be good. Losi also makes good tools. I have a set made by Dynamite. I've found that the ones I use most need to have the ends ground flat, as they tend to get rounded off. Keep an eye on the very ends of your hex drivers, and grind them flat when needed. That'd solve most of your problems, I'd bet.

Extrob, ive never thought about just getting rid of the rounded end of the hex driver. how ever its not my tools fault. But that does make sense.

I'm with you on that one. I see people swapping Phillips screws for hex and I just shake my head. I don't mind hex on parts that I don't take apart often but for items that need to come apart for cleaning or general maintenance after running I use good old fashioned Phillips heads.

They can keep the hex stuff as far as I'm concerned.

will say I hate hex on parts that go on the bottom of the chasis as the dirt, and stuff cakes into the hole so you needa needle or pin to clean it out prior to using the bits to take it off. Phillips I find way easier in that regard.