The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
 

*~EVADER COALITION~*

Alright, this is a thread solely dedicated to the Evader series from Duratrax.

Evader ST
Evader BX
Evader Pro ST
Evader Pro BX
(for all pre-builts and RTRs)

This is a place for fellow Evader owners to come together and help each other out.
Got a tranny issue? We can help you out. Want to know if that motor will work or not? Just ask. Got some new hop-ups? Share the love.

In light of recent, and not so recent, put-downs, bashing, and blatant disrespect towards Evader owners on this board, no non related posts will be tolerated. You talk crap you will more than likely be reported. Back up your posts with facts and PERSONAL experiences. Not something that you heard from you best friend’s cousin’s uncle.

Please keep it clean and respectful.

Happy Posting!
~Corry
(proud Evader ST owner)

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

ASk and you shall receive.......[8D]

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

Why do you like your evader, not putting it down, just wondering, everybody has that truck that means something to them.

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

i like mine cause its the first off-road eletric iv eva had and its been good to me:D dunno there just nice trucks and because everyone rags on em soo much about breaking and mine hasnt broken anything in agaes i like it more

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

I love it... but intrests have moved to other things... ex. Helis and I prefer to keep it down to one car... My XXX-S Racecar
So it's on ebay now... reserve is 290...

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

hey I probaly made some of you guys mad with my review on the evader but I have revised it with what I think now.

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

I really like mine because it's a lot of truck for the money. A fully adjustable suspension and clutch, aluminum shocks (not cheap plastic), ball bearings,it handles well and for a "stock" motor it's fast (radar tested at 27 mph on 7 cells). This is not my first r/c but it has been the most fun.

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

LOL, please, that was a sudden jump of interest, actually Im just mad because I dont have enough $$$ for a heli [:o]

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

what do you guys think would be a good esc upgrade with a 19t motor? using 6 cell 3300 nimh batteries

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

Well would you like one that would do unlimited turns or one with a certain limit.

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

How much do you want to spend? I think the duratrax esc's are pretty good, some have said they have had problems with them. I someday plan on going brushless and so I would say if you have the money to get an esc that will run a brushless. You may be thinking you will never go brushless but someday you will want to. If money is an issue then there are several duratrax esc's that will run a 19t motor.
I don't have any experience with other brands of esc's, but I am sure someone else will let you know what they have used and like.

Later
Duneslider

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

i want to stay under the $150 range. i thinking about an unlimited esc. thanks

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

I'd go with a LRP

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

this thread is great by the way. i was reading the other evader forum which directed me to this. what do you guys recommend doing when the plastic threads get stripped out? jb weld?

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

You have the budget to get an esc that will work with brushless, most brushless escs have a no limit brushed too.

If your parts are stripped then I just recommend replacing the part. Most likely it will just cost you a couple bucks to replace it. You can put a little ca glue in the hole and then put the screw in. Really you just need to replace the part. Sometimes you can put the next bigger screw in.

Later
Duneslider

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

Great to have a Evader thread.

My first question: How do I know how much to tighten the slipper clutch so I can get the most out of the car?

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

The best way is to follow the instructions (in the manual and CD) and not over tighten it. You might damage the tranny.


Thanks Corry for starting this[sm=thumbup.gif]

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

everyone keep your eyes open for Alloy B2 Diff gears....:D

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

I was just looking at the nitro evader st and it has an aluminum chassis. Does any one know if it would work on the elcertic version? It would pretty sweet if it would. That and all the other aluminum upgrades would make it darn near bullit proof.

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

Ya, I was kinda pis*** as i've never broken anything off of big jumps never mind small ones.




About the alloy b2 diff gear, there's aluminum diff gears for the nitro evader and i wonder if they'll fit.

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

So what about upgrades for speed? Specificly, racing the local track. It still needs low end torque, but has a couple of good straights where speed comes in handy.

17t's or so for a motor? If you do that, what sort of setup do you need for the tranny to keep from melting it?

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

If you're thinking about a 17t just get a 19t. More turns, but overall, they kick 15-18t's buts. A 19-17t won't melt the tranny. Brushless, or 12t and under will melt the tranny.

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

The chassis for the nitro evader won't work from what I am told. I am sure if you were creative enough and had some tools you could make it work but I don't know if it would be worth the time and effort. I am toying with the idea to design up and have some aluminum stuff made. I have a few connections that could get me parts machined up for a good deal. We will see what happens.

Now, on to diff gears. The nitro evader aluminum diff gear won't work. The evader elec needs like a 48-49 tooth gear and the nitro is a 52 tooth gear. It wouldn't fit. If the b2's and other associated trannies have no problem handling a lot of power with the nylon gears then maybe the nylon gear made by associated is better than the one duratrax makes. I wonder if the ae gear would hold up better. Also, I found a good article on making sure your diff is adjusted correctly. This article says when the diff and slipper is adjusted properly it shouldn't have problems with a lot of power. I will see if I can find it and post it on here later this evening. I really would like to try the ae b2 diff gear. My problem is I am just running a stock motor and I would need something a little more powerful to melt the diff gear.

Like tamiya said get a good 19t the reedy quad mag is popular but there are some other really good ones out there too.

Later
Duneslider

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

Even if you found an alloy diff gear, i would never put it in my evader. The diff gear is a large gear and the rotating mass of a metal one would lower speeds by at least 3mph.

RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
 

I just don't think it is necessary. If the ae's don't need metal then why should the evader. Ae's don't melt diff gears with the plastic gear so I really think the gear made by ae and then properly adjusting the diff and slipper is all that is needed.

I guess I need to buy a brushless so I can test my theory out. The only problem is if I am wrong I have a nice bl setup that I can't run in any of my cars.

Later
Duneslider