What beadloc wheels fit the Firestone? Thanks.

You can put silicon oil in it but there have been problems, at least until just after the initial release of the Blitz differential, with leaking. I filled mine a few times and it ran out of oil within a few packs. If you do some google searching you can find threads that people had problems keeping diff oil in the blitz differential and they used different seals (I think silicon but I don't know the dimensions). Its in the thread on another forum that Eric Chauvier (FS and Blitz designer) supported.

I have decided to stop racing stadium truck. The firestorm isn't bad and I am getting it there but I decided to just drive the buggy classes now and simplify things. The stadium truck racing class doesn't seem to have any interest from the manufacturers besides team C, associated and kyosho at the moment and I am putting too much effort into this for what I am getting out of it.

My storm is now for sale, I am figuring out what aftermarket will be coming off it and how I will be selling it but it will be as a roller.

10,000 wt

Any 2.2 inch beadlock will fit, the axial ones work. If you are running 3s I wouldn't use them, the tires won't stay locked.

Awesome, thanks nitro-rob, I also came across this. Since Firestorm and Blitz share the same transmission components. Also, found some treads on RCshortcourse forum, on how to prevent it from leaking. Thanks again for showing me some direction.

http://www.petitrc.com/Tech/xrc_shortcoursedifftuning/

i dont get why there is just a little to none interest in the st class anymore.

Just picked this up and waiting for the battery to come in. There is a big yellow sticker on the ESC saying that it comes set in NiMh mode for the battery. I have a Lipo coming. I read the calibration setup in the manual but it doesnt say anywhere about changing the battery mode from NiMh to Lipo. Does the esc just figure it out during calibration based on the battery voltage or am i missing something?

The ESC will not calibrate on its own. Do you have Brushless? or brushed? these are very important differences. if you have brushed motor setup, is the stock ESC lipo compatible, it should be outlined in your manual how to change your setting from Nimh to Lipo, same goes for brushless ESC. For brushless there is always an option programming card.

I have the e-firestorm flux brushless. I see in the manual how it says to calibrate the ESC but nothing to the effect of switching between Lipo and NiMh.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDUTV&P=ML

On a side note is this the castle link that will work with this truck:
http://www.amazon.com/Castle-Creatio...ref=pd_sim_t_1

Will probably pick that up, looks useful.

This is what I have in my manual.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1966311

Ok, that is where i got confused, so by turing auto lipo on and off you are essentially switching between lipo and NimH?

I would recommend getting programming card. The computer is ok, but for that price, I would say to get the field link instead. You can take it anywhere.

http://www.amazon.com/Castle-Creatio...tle+field+link

haha, that was going to be my next question. Makes sense since you can use it both connected to the computer and in the field. I assume this make changing the battery type easy. Would like to pick up some NiMh batteries too, a little scared of storing multiple lipos in the house after reading some fire stories. Its been about 17 years since i was in the hobby. Last car was an RC10L.

Yes, you got it.

I was like to that too, all worried. Once you cross that barrier and start using Lipos you wont want to go back to Nimh. I never looked back at use Nimh. If you store, charge and handle with care, there is no problems. If your lipo cut off it set properly, no worries. The performance between the two is night and day.

Yeah, I picked up a charging bag and will grab one of my dads ammo cans just to have it in something metal for storage. i figure ill pick up the programming card when i use the truck with my dog and daughter as to not have a 50mph bullet coming toward them. So I can slow it down when just playing around. Thanks for the help.

John

In the castle creation software, which ESC do I choose from the drop down for the HPI Flux?

Does it have the vapour ESC, http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/106627 . This ESC is the same as the Castle Sidewinder.

Got it yesterday, it actually auto detects. So glad I got this, its so much better then using the radio. On a side note I really wish HPI updated their manual. I seem to have a different radio and receiver and the instructions dont coincide with the new radio. Picked up an AC680 charger and a 5000mah SkyLipo. Now if it will only stop snowing.

Awesome, get some paddle tires and go play in the snow, its all waterproof. I just finished rebuilding my diff, used oil instead of grease.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1967866

Nice, that looks mean.

Yeah, doesn't quite look like that now, still have the body, just not so new after a year of bashing with it. The paddle tires are awesome for winter, crazy rooster tails on 3s.

I don't know why I didn't get alerts for this thread the past couple weeks?!
I just bought an ammo can as well for my lipos. My friend burned his garage down form a lipo and now he uses one.

My firestorm was sold yesterday. I swapped out the ball diff, CVDs and fibre to sell separately and the rest of the truck was cleaned up. I loved the truck and it could have stayed around for years in my collection as a street driver but I have decided to focus my RC in other areas and consolidate things more. I did figure out a lot about how to get it to handle on a clay track and it was coming along so if anyone has any questions about that feel free to contact me, I have more thoughts than I shared here.

Like most of the RC industry, I gave up on stadium trucks.

Sw-15wp esc setup
 

I guess that I'm just stupid but I can't get the stock brushed esc setup. I'm using a non-hacked Flysky GT-3B rx & tx, Hobbyking bec, stock SW-15WP esc and motor. I can set the battery type and that's as far as I can get. As far as driving the truck it's like a light switch off or on. Very frustrating. Searched this forum and the web but I'm getting nowhere. Can someone offer some help?

Tough to diagnose without seeing it. Have you tried the original radio and receiver to isolate the problem to just the radio (or its settings)? You shouldn't need a BEC if you haven't changed the servo. Did you calibrate the radio? I don't know anything about the brushed electronics so forgive me if that isn't something to do.