The_Shark

hi, after getting my digger, and just about blowing it up with a brushless system (dont try this at home kids!) im looking for a onroad car, what i really want is a simple car that can handle both streets and a mild brushless system.

what i want to avoid is constant spinning out during acceleration and steering, (i know how to handle a car but some do it regardless) and also dont want it to bottoming out and skipping all over the place.

Will any F1 cars do what i need them to?

i really need the kit under $150

dragnse7en

F-1 cars are not built for bashing.

If you get one, and hit anything at all, or hit a bump wrong, kiss it goodbye.

I'd suggest a Tamiya TT-01 series car instead.

SyCo_VeNoM

TT-01e ford $109 at tower
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAUND&P=ML
get http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD122&P=ML also
I run a 35A EZ-run 9t combo in mine no issues only mods I did were CVD's, diff outdrives, and steel diffs(moded DF-02 diffs to fit). The stock plastic diffs could probably handle the BL setup though.

The_Shark

huh... i really dont hit things

actually i only crashed 2 times with my onroads in all these years, i used to have a few pan cars, if they just had a small bit more suspension travel it would be fine.

the tt-01 looks ok, but i want something even more simple and more proformance minded. i can build just about anything out there.

dragnse7en

I highly doubt your experience.

F-1s (now F-4s) are indoor carpet only. They are so fragile, that they have to do IFMAR starts.

Go ahead and waste your money - good luck with that : )~<

lee172

TA-05? [8D]

The_Shark

your not talking to a noobie, ive been doing this for 16 years.

once i get used to a car/track i almost never crash, ive run 80+ mph 1/18 ive run over-powered 1/8 buggies, ive run 60+mph pan cars (on road) i know how to handle a car, i dont intend to hit anything, and anything that breaks can be fixed.

dont be cocky and think your the only one who can drive kay?

The_Shark

ok, just got done "wasting" my money on a hpi F10, looks like a winner, gear diff to handle brushless power and reduce service intervals, standard rubber tires should take out some inperfections on the road, dual deck for ridgidity. i have some prime places to run it.

did the ez pay deal and $20 off coupon, so i got the car and a 2s lipo for 153 shipped figure i could lay half on the card so i can sell my digger and my two frogs to re-capture the money.

FYI if anyone read my post i asked about road handling NOT durability, i KNOW they are not durable, its a modified pan car.

putting a outrunner brushless system on it, plenty of punch and light weight at that, if thats too much a standard brushless with looow kv will do.

always wanted one of these

Foxy

Looking forward to build and pics. It is a kit, right? Full photo build?

The_Shark

yup full kit, a maybe on the photo build, its hard for a camera to capture me i build em' so fast! no but really once i get started i kinda zone out.

says it comes with a friction shock??? if thats the case thats the first thing thats going.

paint wise? purple and black?

skottoman

You mentioned "what i want to avoid is constant spinning out during acceleration and steering"

Putting a powerful motor into the F10 will most likely cause this. But then you get to learn a different driving style, which is cool all it's own.
I have a number of Tamiya F201s (4wd), and they can handle brushless due to the 4wd.

The_Shark

yeah, i just wanted to avoid a digger like car, what i threw in was complete overkill, 115MPH potential in a car without suspension

the motor im putting in is a 500 4400kv helicopter outrunner with 600watts, its funny because the whole motor would fit inside a 540 can motor. if its too much i will simply just swap it out for a lower KV motor.

i came from 2wd cars/trucks so i know how to "caress" the throttle, but im going to be pretty rusty since the last ones i owned where 8 years ago with a nitro evader and corally pan car.

i beat that poor corally to death, i ran through so many tires and scrapped up the chassis raw, finally i got something else and the pan car eroded into parts and spare screws.... actually it was a KNOCK off corrally so it cost $100 RTR instead of $300 as a kit, i should have bought a few but i didnt know it was a clone of a good model at the time.

The_Shark

just got it! put it together after work, just have to trim the body and solder the motor.

this thing looks AWESOME! much narrower than i thought and ground clearence is just right, also according to the speed calculator its going to be a perfect speed of 54mph on 2s!

i did take a few pictures along the way. try to post tommorrow.

side note- this thing came with some of the crummiest, crappiest instructions ever, poor illustrations, almost no definitions (couldnt tell a bearing from a washer.) no step 1,2,3 or a,b,c and the WORST packaging ever, i had to open ALL the bags to get hardware and parts from early steps (wrong order)

Foxy

If that calculated speed is based on motor rpm with said battery and gearing, you can knock at least 25% off, more like 30% for drivetrain and friction losses.

The_Shark

this thing can definatly do 50mph no problem, i think the calculation accounts for a drivetrain loss, however there isnt much in direct gearing.

anyhow this thing is a BLAST, at first all i did was spin out, but once i re-learned how to drive it i loves it good, tiny throttle into and out of turns, turn hard into turns to understeer and shift the weight and trim it back to cut the corner, enter turns hot, hit the brakes, coast- turn, ease into the gas coming out , just like a real car.

again, nice car, great fit, POOOOR instructions and bagging.

also paint got messed up- it ran AND shrunk AND peeled- this is crap paint- ive used lexan paint many a time but never had this happen. then i got half azzed with the rest of the body because of the paint.

The_Shark

bag-o parts

first thing was fitting the T-bar to the main chassis and putting the motor mount together.

The_Shark

next up is installing the main chassis brace and friction plate, servo was then installed (vintage futaba indirect works like a charm!) noted servo saver is a bit soft.

then was building up the front end frame, installing all the ball ends, puting together the nylon bushing knuckles (why nylon???) setting up tie rods and sandwiching it with a fiber plate (which by the way works fine but is cut ugly.) the if you wondered its all ball pivot with a king-pin spring fits under the lower arm, lower arm is stationary as knuckle and upper arms move.

Ttam Says Blarg

Cool! I have always wanted a F-1. Just no place to run one. All the cinder they drop on the road kills pretty much anything on-road.

The_Shark

next is the "marriage" of the two frames (actually a good idea with this, very robust connection.)

then putting the axle togather, simply put the pins in the spiders, the spiders clip into th spur, then the ring gear on top threaded to the axle shaft, adjusted via hex bolt then topped off with a hollowed wheel extention hub.

The_Shark

then mount the wings, wheels electronics and motor.

that is the micro monster im using, .9hp in that! using a helie X mount two screws through the motor to keep it tight, then to the motor mount one nut and bolt through the xmount and one screw through the motor, perfect dimentions! (im like the master of ingenuity!)

The_Shark

update, got a hpi f10 broke one piece, running full throttle i hit a patch of ice flipped it and slammed into a curb at 40mph, cracked the front stub frame, (i actually drove it like this before i got the part), $4.60 later and its back in action, i kissed a kurb yet again going too fast and trying to cut the corner too tight, flipped it so bad it shifted the motor and made the pinion fly off, only cracked the rim, epoxy, and adjustment and its back for more.

im learning alot from this car, this is my favorite on road i have ever owned, and actually its a handful and too fast for its own good (brushless 2s it will top out at 67mph) not delicate under any sense of the word, and because the parts are so cheap im not afraid to crash so i drive a little wreckless.

want evidence? i have onboard camera footage[8D]

but still two crashes in about 5hours of run time is great! i actually wore out the front bushings before i broke something.

stock tires are CRAAAAP, that was the reason for the first crash, gave it gas and veered into a patch of ice.

by the way anyone got a F1 for sale or a exotek chassis for this car give me a pm, income tax time

Nitro Racer 18

I'm actually thinking of buying a F10 since a new indoor carpet track just opened in walking distance from my house.

chonyc77

I agree wit most of what's been said. F-1 is probably the worst idea based on what your looking to get out of an rc. I would look into the tamiya df03ra, which is tamiyas rally version. I have two of them and they are great fun. Pretty tough rite out of the box and offer good handling on and off road. They can also handle a brushless set up rite out of the box and if you decide to go with a fast brushless setup all you have to purchase is the slipper clutch for 30 bucks and your god to go.

Good luck!

The_Shark

next time read the thread before you post

it has now earned the title of my favorite on road i have ever owned (and i have had 7) setup right i belive it will put a 4wd touring car to shame, im running a brushless outrunner motor rated at 1hp, it will do close to 80mph on 2s with tall gearing and still stay stone cold. handling is amazing, entering a turn close to top speed, hitting the brakes, shaving the corner and then blasting out of the corner.

on 3s with really tall gearing i think it could beat the traxxas Xo1 no problem.

Haddi Taha

I am really thinking if getting a F1 car. The reason is I only drive on really smooth asphalt and I think that the light weight will mean very high speeds and I only have to worry about the pinion and spur gear so the drive train should be easier to maintain.\