cydog510

great advice john, thanks for future refferance.

GHWilson87

I have the Porsche 911 VIP TT 01E and I want to know if anyone knows the difference between the locked differential and the one way differential.  I bought an EZRun 5.5T brushless motor and I am trying to protect my gears.

cydog510

good luck with that! the 5.5t is a monster, you're gonna strip gears most likely regardless. great combo though, speed and power for days!

GHWilson87

good luck with that! the 5.5t is a monster, you're gonna strip gears most likely regardless. great combo though, speed and power for days!


Read more:http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_41...#ixzz0u2Y2e9ho

frlud

hey guys, i've been racing my ride around with my friends and i got a few upgrade questions.
i've already purchased an aluminum driveshaft and bearings, what should i upgrade next for a smoother (non-racing) car?
and which longer-lasting battery & a better motor would u guys recommend?! i currently have a Duratrax Onyx 3000mAh 7.2V batt and a regular silver can motor...specifically which motor upgrade can the stock esc handle?! i dont want to go on a full upgrade as money is tight, so im probably just gonna upgrade the battery &/or the motor!

thanks everyone = )

cydog510

wilson, i would buy back up spurs and pinions, you will need them, it's inevitable.

frlud, keep the batery you have, with the stock ESC you cannot run lipo, so hold off till you can afford lipo, get a tamiya sport tuned RZ motor. hat was my first upgrade from the silver can. the stock ESC can handle down to a 19t (in my opinion and experience) but many would disagree and i think they're are warranted. $100 shipped for an ezrun system and you'll have more speed than you'll ever need.........

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5tczTMPv0g&feature=related[/youtube]

frlud

hey man thanks for the reply...
i was looking on ebay and all i found was the sport tuned RS motor & the super stock RZ motors from Tamiya...which one specifically are u talking about?! and how many T does the stock silver can have? i feel llike such a nooob for asking so many questions, but i think this forum is the perfect place to ask! = )

thanks a lot for all yoru help!!

cydog510

super stock RZ is the one i was refering to, sorry for the confusion, in regards to the silver can question,the tamiya silver can is 27t

frlud

hmm sounds like a good investment as they aren't very expensive! thanks for the info man!

cydog510

no worries, read up on breaking in a brushed motor, i prefer a water break-in (you tube that)
enjoy!

frlud

hehe i did watch that video man!
but im not sure, i might have shaky hands and DUNK the whole thing into the water = P
i'll see when i get the motor. how significant is this method to the speed of the car?! and i can i test out the motor first and then do the method and then see the improvement?!

Ttam Says Blarg

You will see very little improvement in speed although some people say there is.. Its more for the longevity of your motor.

cydog510

very correct Ttam, it is so your motor will last longer. submerge the whole motor, you're not gonna mess it up.

frlud

ok i'll give it a shot as soon as i get my hands on a new motor = )
thanks a lot for the awesome feedback everyone!

GHWilson87

What is the best pinion/spur combination for my TT 01E?  I ordered the EZRun 5.5t brushless and I want to change the pinion/spur combination since I will be removing the motor anyway.

cydog510

25/55 you'll be runnin too hot,i ran 22/61 was good.

frlud

hey guys, today i finally went to my local 7-11 to pick up my aluminum drive shaft...and after a frustrating half hour of trying to fit it all in, i went for a test run! = P

however, the aluminum shaft gives a sort of rattling noise. is this normal?? i am positive that i have installed everything correctly, and i have re-greased all the original parts + the shaft itself.!!!

MD6

You may have one spacer at the rear in wrong. They don't usually rattle.

frlud

what do u mean "spacer"??
sorry for the nooobnesss, but i followed exactly as the diagram. i have the tamiya aluminum propeller join & shaft set (54026) and on the instructions it says just follow the instructions as is.

so i stick the rear propeller join through a plastic bearing & a spur gear stopper (in the right direction), slip in the small shaft and stick all of that through the spur gear... i then slip in the front propeller joint and snap in the propellor shaft itself...with everything screwed in tight the propellor shaft can shift front & back about..2mm?!

MD6

I think I am referring to the spur gear stopper, making sure it's in the right direction and all the parts are in the correct place. If it's all correct then I would replace the plastic bushings with metal bearings and their a very good investment for durability and speed.

TT01 is my life

Open up your diff casing and check inside if the diff gears are all properly aligned. When you take a prop shaf out, sometimes the diff gears can get a bit out of place... 

Otis311

picked up the race version of the TT01. This thing is pretty nice. comes with everything you would want except for the aluminum motor mount.














I modified the stock steering servo linkage to a turnbuckle style like the original TT-01R

Seven3Lee

The difference is in how the wheels directly across from each other interact through the diff. WIth a standard diff, if you turn any of the wheels individually, the wheel across from it will turn the opposite direction. With a locked diff, if you turn that same wheel, the wheel on the opposite side will turn the same direction. A one-way diff allows, as can be expected from the name, the wheels to turn in one direction only. A standard diff allows for more stability in corners, because it will allow for the wheels to spin at different speeds and as such keeps the car moving much more efficiently. A locked diff essentially moves both wheels at the same rate, even while cornering. This makes the rear end more unstable and prone to oversteer, which is essential to drifting. A one-way diff will take the braking power out of the affected wheels, allowing for more speed through a corner, but slightly less control.


I hope I explained that correctly. I know what I wanted to say, but sometimes my fingers don't cooperate, so if anyone else want to jump in, feel free.

me_john85

i got a regular tt01 and just wondering whats the cheapest way to give it a bit more speed. I know i can go brushless but with the ESC and Motor im looking at $100 bucks. Just want more speed for parking lot bashing

cydog510

save up for the brushless, SERIOUSLY! best bet no matter what chassis.