Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
01-19-2011, 02:42 AM
#6526
Senior Member
RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
hey andyjk my ezrun 9t with 35a fried, the motor wires melted to nothing and the esc fan was alight. I did my research and found ou this chart
EZRUN 35A
Onroad 2s = 9t
Offroad 2s = 13t
Onroad 3s= 13t
Offroad 3s= 18t
So running 9t with 3s is 4 turns over the limit so to get better speed with running within the limits is suggest getting 60amp with 8.5t, it has more copper windings allowing for the rotor to be charged up more. the full can also increases torque
EZRUN 60A
Onroad 2s= 5.5t
Offroad 2s= 8.5t
Onroad 3s= 8.5t
Offroad 3s+ 13.5t
Essentially running 8.5t on 3s compared to 5.5t on 2s means you will have the same rpm (exactly the same) but the 8.5t has almost 50% more torque so you can gear it higher for more speed or lower for less heat, you do have to carry one more cell around but the advantages outway the disadvantage of gaining 100grams, also you can use the 8.5t for racing 8.5t class which is handy.
I ordered the EZRUN 8.5t Victory Motor with the EZRUN 60AMP ESC for $100 posted off ebay, the Victory motor has better magnets than the older version and no bullets
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Hope this is helpful
EZRUN 35A
Onroad 2s = 9t
Offroad 2s = 13t
Onroad 3s= 13t
Offroad 3s= 18t
So running 9t with 3s is 4 turns over the limit so to get better speed with running within the limits is suggest getting 60amp with 8.5t, it has more copper windings allowing for the rotor to be charged up more. the full can also increases torque
EZRUN 60A
Onroad 2s= 5.5t
Offroad 2s= 8.5t
Onroad 3s= 8.5t
Offroad 3s+ 13.5t
Essentially running 8.5t on 3s compared to 5.5t on 2s means you will have the same rpm (exactly the same) but the 8.5t has almost 50% more torque so you can gear it higher for more speed or lower for less heat, you do have to carry one more cell around but the advantages outway the disadvantage of gaining 100grams, also you can use the 8.5t for racing 8.5t class which is handy.
I ordered the EZRUN 8.5t Victory Motor with the EZRUN 60AMP ESC for $100 posted off ebay, the Victory motor has better magnets than the older version and no bullets
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Hope this is helpful
01-19-2011, 03:26 AM
#6527
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
ORIGINAL: Haddi Taha
hey andyjk my ezrun 9t with 35a fried, the motor wires melted to nothing and the esc fan was alight. I did my research and found ou this chart
EZRUN 35A
Onroad 2s = 9t
Offroad 2s = 13t
Onroad 3s= 13t
Offroad 3s= 18t
So running 9t with 3s is 4 turns over the limit so to get better speed with running within the limits is suggest getting 60amp with 8.5t, it has more copper windings allowing for the rotor to be charged up more. the full can also increases torque
EZRUN 60A
Onroad 2s= 5.5t
Offroad 2s= 8.5t
Onroad 3s= 8.5t
Offroad 3s+ 13.5t
Essentially running 8.5t on 3s compared to 5.5t on 2s means you will have the same rpm (exactly the same) but the 8.5t has almost 50% more torque so you can gear it higher for more speed or lower for less heat, you do have to carry one more cell around but the advantages outway the disadvantage of gaining 100grams, also you can use the 8.5t for racing 8.5t class which is handy.
I ordered the EZRUN 8.5t Victory Motor with the EZRUN 60AMP ESC for $100 posted off ebay, the Victory motor has better magnets than the older version and no bullets
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Hope this is helpful
hey andyjk my ezrun 9t with 35a fried, the motor wires melted to nothing and the esc fan was alight. I did my research and found ou this chart
EZRUN 35A
Onroad 2s = 9t
Offroad 2s = 13t
Onroad 3s= 13t
Offroad 3s= 18t
So running 9t with 3s is 4 turns over the limit so to get better speed with running within the limits is suggest getting 60amp with 8.5t, it has more copper windings allowing for the rotor to be charged up more. the full can also increases torque
EZRUN 60A
Onroad 2s= 5.5t
Offroad 2s= 8.5t
Onroad 3s= 8.5t
Offroad 3s+ 13.5t
Essentially running 8.5t on 3s compared to 5.5t on 2s means you will have the same rpm (exactly the same) but the 8.5t has almost 50% more torque so you can gear it higher for more speed or lower for less heat, you do have to carry one more cell around but the advantages outway the disadvantage of gaining 100grams, also you can use the 8.5t for racing 8.5t class which is handy.
I ordered the EZRUN 8.5t Victory Motor with the EZRUN 60AMP ESC for $100 posted off ebay, the Victory motor has better magnets than the older version and no bullets
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Hope this is helpful
01-19-2011, 03:35 AM
#6528
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
ORIGINAL: woody_294
Really nice shell that Gallardo, you should do something about your messy electrics tho!
Really nice shell that Gallardo, you should do something about your messy electrics tho!
Looks like you did a great job on the shell too.
Finished building the rear light cluster.
01-20-2011, 12:04 AM
#6529
Senior Member
RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
higher turn motors with more cells are much more effiecient than lower turn motors on less cells as the rpm is close however big difference in torque, good news is that the 8.5t full can should be plenty fast on 2s till i get another 3s as my current ones puffed, how i dont know ther are 4000mah 40-50c discharge turnigys,thats lipo at least it was $30 and lasted at least 3 months. I will tell you howthe 8.5t feels on 2s and on 3s when i get it.
01-20-2011, 12:00 PM
#6531
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
i just bought a tt01 off ebay, this is my first one so all i know is how it came. i had to replace the spur gear other then that it was rtr with aluminum shaft,bearings etc. i also bought stuff to convert it to a tt01e and a metal motor mount that i installed.
when i accelerate it makes a crunching noise. with the spur gear/motor mount cover off their is alot of play in the spur. behind the spur towards the rear diff case, theirs just the bearing with a big open space above it. im geussing this isnt how it goes. anyone know whats wrong?
when i accelerate it makes a crunching noise. with the spur gear/motor mount cover off their is alot of play in the spur. behind the spur towards the rear diff case, theirs just the bearing with a big open space above it. im geussing this isnt how it goes. anyone know whats wrong?
01-20-2011, 12:08 PM
#6532
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
ORIGINAL: aldebaran
Car is finished. Some sick rims showed up today.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
Car is finished. Some sick rims showed up today.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
01-20-2011, 12:15 PM
#6533
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
Probably used the wrong holes to mount the motor in the motor mount. Make sure the motor is tight against the mount too, the screws tend to work themselves loose after some time.
The best thing you can do is to take the gearbox apart and use the published Tamiya TT-01 instructions to see if any parts are missing.
The best thing you can do is to take the gearbox apart and use the published Tamiya TT-01 instructions to see if any parts are missing.
01-20-2011, 12:49 PM
#6534
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
its not the spur. its the rear diff. the bevel gear is stripping. i replaced it but it still does it, so im not gunna run it till i find out whats wrong.
so what could cause the bevel gear to strip?
the front and rear diff are both locked i believe. if i hold the front wheels still and try to turn the rear, it clicks. so im geussing the bevel and diff arnt meshing right.
so what could cause the bevel gear to strip?
the front and rear diff are both locked i believe. if i hold the front wheels still and try to turn the rear, it clicks. so im geussing the bevel and diff arnt meshing right.
01-20-2011, 05:01 PM
#6535
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
ORIGINAL: codielee93
its not the spur. its the rear diff. the bevel gear is stripping. i replaced it but it still does it, so im not gunna run it till i find out whats wrong.
so what could cause the bevel gear to strip?
the front and rear diff are both locked i believe. if i hold the front wheels still and try to turn the rear, it clicks. so im geussing the bevel and diff arnt meshing right.
its not the spur. its the rear diff. the bevel gear is stripping. i replaced it but it still does it, so im not gunna run it till i find out whats wrong.
so what could cause the bevel gear to strip?
the front and rear diff are both locked i believe. if i hold the front wheels still and try to turn the rear, it clicks. so im geussing the bevel and diff arnt meshing right.
01-20-2011, 09:57 PM
#6540
Senior Member
RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
hey brushless4life, all 540 motors will fit, they say a bl combo is intended for onroad or offroad use as a guide only, the 13t ezrun (the one u had 4 yr cen) was intended for onroad use as it would not have sufficient power and may overheat if used in a offroad rc, bring yr tt01 tonight so we can race
01-20-2011, 11:48 PM
#6541
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
i didnt take pics inside the diff case cus i know i got that right. with wheels off ground it doesnt do it, only when torque has to be applied to the bevel, its skipping teeth. im thinking their should be a ring behind the bevel like the one that holds the pin in the spur.
Edit: battery went into lvc right when i was finding out. but i believe in reverse everythings smooth. and forwards is when everythings starts crackling.
ive got 2 ideas, 1 i need to shim the bevel to get closer to the diff. but that doesnt make sence if it works in reverse.
the other is when going forwards the shaft/spur/bevel is being pushed up. and in reverse its pushed down so it stays smooth.
idk this is really annoying. im used to a stampede that ive never had a problem with i couldnt find out and fix in 15 minutes.
btw i like your lambo body
01-21-2011, 12:31 AM
#6542
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
ORIGINAL: aldebaran
Car is finished. Some sick rims showed up today.
Car is finished. Some sick rims showed up today.
where did you get it from?also you should consider adding some window tint
would look cool
01-21-2011, 04:10 AM
#6543
Senior Member
RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
check if you have any damage teeth on your front and rear diff, front and rear bevel gear ,spur and pinion and you driveshafts
01-21-2011, 04:15 AM
#6544
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
found out what was wrong with it, running video as soon as it gets a little warmer.
the pinion was slipping around the motor shaft, throwing the spur out of alignment and the bevel. the tamiya pinions i got 20/21 tooth. wont hold no matter how hard i tighten it, and the grubs are so small they strip super easy. so i used blue threadlock to get it to stay tight.
anyone else have this problem?
and what are some good pinions with a larger "3 or 4mm" grub screw that will actually grip the shaft?
the pinion was slipping around the motor shaft, throwing the spur out of alignment and the bevel. the tamiya pinions i got 20/21 tooth. wont hold no matter how hard i tighten it, and the grubs are so small they strip super easy. so i used blue threadlock to get it to stay tight.
anyone else have this problem?
and what are some good pinions with a larger "3 or 4mm" grub screw that will actually grip the shaft?
01-21-2011, 05:08 AM
#6545
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
Thanks. Here are the captures from the TT01 manual for the spur gear and bevel gear assembly. You may use it to check if all the components listed are present. Also note that the way you install the motor with 20T or 21T pinions are not the default vertical orientation. It is reserved for the 19T pinion, but you may know that already.
Since you mentioned both differentials being locked, that puts a lot of stress on the pinion gear which can wear out or strip if made of aluminum.
Hope this helps you.
Since you mentioned both differentials being locked, that puts a lot of stress on the pinion gear which can wear out or strip if made of aluminum.
Hope this helps you.
01-21-2011, 05:16 AM
#6546
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
Thanks for the compliment. It makes a huge difference with nice looking rims that actually fill out the wheel well and mounts flush with the fenders (offset +7mm). I got the alloy rims from a seller on ebay. The brand is TopCad.
Ithought about putting tints on the window but then messed up the decals for it. Oh well, at least I can see the cool blue aluminum hop up parts. Took some pics of the car outdoor just to see how well the details hold up in closeups.
Ithought about putting tints on the window but then messed up the decals for it. Oh well, at least I can see the cool blue aluminum hop up parts. Took some pics of the car outdoor just to see how well the details hold up in closeups.
01-21-2011, 06:34 AM
#6548
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
The body is a Tamiya Lamborghini Gallardo Super Trofeo. It comes with the receptacles to hold the LEDs but Ibuilt the light clusters myself, soldering wires and attaching the connectors. The TLU-01 came with two sets which didn't work for this body.
01-21-2011, 04:42 PM
#6550
Senior Member
RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
happened on my silvercan lucky had a brushless sitting around and the motor and pinion were pretty used to, common reason for stripped set crews are worn out allen keys, get yr self a set of hex headed screw drivers (metric sizes 1.5mm, 2mm and 2.5mm are commony used for 1/10 rc)
