dragnse7en

I saw that too but the guy skipped the rosin flux and heat-shrink tubing, and assumed everyone knows how to solder. It's a good tutorial, but IMHO it's too fast paced and geared more towards people that are already skilled with soldering.

gundermanm

when you look at the contents of the short rev. arms, it says it's sold seperately.
so i didn't know if that was needed

dragnse7en

The kit works with both the TB02 and TA05 chassis, and doesn't come with the swing shafts, because I guess the two cars use different lengths. You'll have to buy two sets of the 46mm or 48mm swing shafts (they're sold only in pairs). I bought the kit for the oodles of spares, and noticed that the suspension arm shaft spacers aren't the blue aluminum like the ones that came with my car. Basically, everything else is the same. It's nice to have spares - I still have one front and one rear arm left from that set, with plenty of spacers to boot.

gundermanm

what's the difference???
better for different camber angles?

dragnse7en

Neither. Imagine looking down the centerline of the two different chassis, and you will see that the F/R bulkheads between the two aren't the same width. That's where the different sized universal swing shafts come into play; shorter for the TB02 and longer for the TA05.

I'm not sure about the camber angle change though. The rear hub carriers and front uprights that came in the box set are the same ones that came with my car, and I noticed that the TA05's respective parts are different. That's a good question, but you can answer that yourself.

See the attached PDF of the TA05-R I posted, and check the lengths of your manual against this one.

dragnse7en

Neither. Imagine looking down the centerline of the two different chassis, and you will see that the F/R bulkheads between the two aren't the same width. That's where the different sized universal swing shafts come into play; they're different so they need differrent length swing shafts.

I'm not sure about the camber angle change though. The rear hub carriers and front uprights that came in the box set are the same ones that came with my car, and I noticed that the TA05's respective parts are different. That's a good question, but you can answer that yourself.

See the attached PDF of the TA05-R manual I posted, and check the lengths of the upper links' callouts listed in your manual against this one.

gundermanm

ah... because they were both listed for the TA05 option, i figured it was an option.

plasmaedge

Hey People,  i just have a question to ask you?

dragnse7en

Some pictures (with and without the body) would help a lot more so we can see the actual condition of the car, and other things you haven't mentioned above.

aftermarket

My Feedback: (2)

New shoes!! HPI x-patterns on HPI black mesh wheels.

dragnse7en

Very nice choice Afterrmarket. Those are popular here and some guys even use those for carpet racing. They're a great all - purpose tire. I've gone through 3 sets of the belted pro compound versions myself, but can't wait to try out my Tamiya Type B3s.

aftermarket

My Feedback: (2)

The track here is seldom set up, so I got the regular, unbelted version. Street bashing with these was alright.. more slip than my worn out tamiya slicks, though. [:@] Guess its time to take out that anti-squat.

Geared 22/70, the motor's getting heated on these 93 degree days.. Will pick up a heatsink soon.

dragnse7en

Yeah - I hear you. I've been using Paragon FXIItraction compound for a while, and it makes a huge difference for traction with those or any other tire I use it with. A night-and-day difference!

dragnse7en

I have two Tamiya TA05 series hop-ups I cannot use any longer, and I would like to DONATE them to whoever could use these parts. Please PM me only for these and we can work out me sending them out to you.

Tamiya #53848 - TA05 Aluminum Steering Racing Set - Partial. I took the blue aluminum Steering posts, so all you will get are the main parts only; the steering arm, and pitman arm. I will dig up the instruction leaflet and include it so that if you're missing anything you can get/ order it yourself.

Tamiya #53916 - TA05 Auminum Stabiler Holder X 2 - I have a full set for a TA05, if your ride still has plastic or Carbon Reinforced Bulkheads. They work on the TA05, TA05-IFS, and the V2 series. I'll even throw in the 3x10mm screws that came with them.

All Takers will be mailed in a bubble-wrap reinf'd envelope thru USPS. Sorry if I'm being cheap, but I want to donate them!

Takers anyone?

dragnse7en

I got a look at the new gear that tamiya's releasing late spring or early summer from Kentech's blog. They're going to have a gear differential that works with the TA05 ver.II/IFS, TA06, and TRF417.

The part number is this:

42197 TRF417 Gear Differential Unit II

ref pic from kentech:

gundermanm

question. i've found that when i brake, my TA05 lurches and spins out....is there anything that might fix this, or will i just have to turn down my braking endpoints?

dragnse7en

I don't exactly know what you mean by lurching. Posting a video and listing what the setup is in the car would help a lot better. Include the electric gear, battery, front toe and caster, and camber.

gundermanm

ok, forget the 'lurching', but it just instantly spins out, with the tail flying forward, i cant give u exacts, but i have a lot of negative camber and toe in. -probably a bit too much... currently using my stock gears (my modified gears shredded)


wait. sorry, this occured to me mid post... it's probably because it's Very out of balance (i've a 4200 mah NiMH (ridiculously heavy))

dragnse7en

The toe-in on the front end is the biggest problem right there. It should be either zero toe or a bit toe-out. If you think it's a weight problem (which is more evident on take-offs) grab the specs of all your electrics - servo, receiver, motor, esc, and heatsink, etc. Look up the weight on all of them, add them up. Look up the weight of the battery. Subtract the smaller number from the bigger number; that's how much lead ballast you'll need to balance the car.

IMHO, I really think that the front toe-in is your issue. I had toe-in when I first got mine, and the same thing happened - spinning out a lot. I set it up that way because I was so used to off-road racing. I did my homework over and over, and hence my 1° toe-out.

gundermanm

alright, i'll work on that. though i CANT GET THE TURNBUCKLES TO TURN; the wrench just isn't grabbing.
other question, how heavy is ur TA05?

dragnse7en

It's on the heavy side, especially compared to my ver.II R. I never weighed it, but it's got a huge esc and the heat sink doesnn't help in weight, and I don't have a low profile steering servo on either one . Whenever my cousin visits I'll ask him to bring his scale he uses to balance his heli blades with. It not may be until early next month though.

gundermanm

alright, not important. i was just wondering, for my car is really heavy, and wondering how bad that is.

also, would weight hurt the handling? i swear when my car was lighter (i was using my stock motor), the tail drifted more and a bit more understeer.. Thanks

dragnse7en

Eh, you just may notice things more, like chassis roll, understeer, anti-squat during accerelation, and that kind of stuff. Actually it helped me tune it up a lot better b/c of that. Other than that, I guess you could add a tooth to the gearing calculator results, although I really never thought I needed to do that.

gundermanm

ok.

i finally got new springs... and all three of the spring sets were too soft... (those were tamijya springs) what springs do u use? ..cause these left my car with almost no ground clearance and no return (which i've never gotten fully on any spring set.)

also, i really want TRF's, but due to my low budget, i'm slightly weary of dropping 70 bucks on a pair of dampeners... are there any cheap aftermarkets that still perform well? (i've heard horror stories of leaking oil and such)..

dragnse7en

Here's a set of TRF dampers for under $54:

www.ampdraw.com/product/4015/Tamiya-42102-TRF-Special-Damper-Set-Hard-Black-Coating

Add $7.99 for the shipping. They'd come straight out of California.

As for springs, I use the stock Tamiya white hard springs in the fronts of my cars and Team Associated's #3945 Red 22.0 lb springs in the rear. I have a 0mm clearance for the spring spacer up front and 2mm for the setting in the back on both cars.

My cousin and I bought some Yeah Racing and Hobbysave dampers when we had our Mini Coopers. They're the same size shock, and they both came with 3 different sets of springs. As far as leaking oil goes though, I wouldn't call it horrorifying. Each one had one out of their respective four shocks leak more than we wanted to, but luckily they use the standard 3mm rubber O-ring, and after a quick rebuild with Tamiya O-rings, they seemed fine.

One of the two sets came pre-assembled and already filled with oil (Hobbysave I think but I'm not too sure). I couldn't find anywhere on the packaging as to what weight oil it was, so I replaced it with my own. Since they were low budget shocks, I definitely used a washcloth in between the pliers and shock shaft when I took them apart.

The set of four for each ran for about $16 on eBay, which was a great deal when I needed a budget for R/C.

If you are still unneasy about leaking, you can buy them anyways, and then carefully take them apart, replacing the O-rings right away with brand name ones.

I'd recommend the TRF rebuild set:

www.hobbywarehouse.com/53574-Damper-Rod-O-Ring-TRF

Or, if you just want the O-rings, Team Associated makes beautiful silicone O-rings (8 pack):

www.ampdraw.com/product/2108/Associated-5407-Red-Silicone-O-Ring-8