astroboycp

The Build begins. Started with the servos 1st.

astroboycp

Now onto the chassis build.

astroboycp

I must say the solid chassis frame is making me excited. Look at the immaculate drilling and it's precision. Lots of screwing to be done[sm=47_47.gif][sm=47_47.gif]

astroboycp

Last few photos of the chassis building up. The fit is really spot on. If only all the parts were metal

astroboycp

Hey guys feel free to chip in. Any present or past Scania builders, do chip in and post your tips and tricks on your buildup and photos too.

R/C fan-addict

oohhhh now I want to get a semi!!!! What color are you painting the body? You should totally get the reefer trailer, but it sure is pricey...

astroboycp

You won't regret getting one I assure you. They are really well built and thought out.

I might go with a metallic blue.

The reefer trailer is nice but too pricey for me.

takzi

Hi astroboycp

Nice build,

But i would suggest you to modify the servo placement different from the manual. The current config is using an extra steering rod and an extra pivot point to link up the whole steering sytem, this config is not the most efficient according to my past experience. The downside of this config is that the power transferred from the servo to the wheel has decreased due to the extra linkage, and the original geometry of this config also limits the steering angle,

You can try to modify the steering like the other 3 axle tractor, their steering servo and shifting servo are located at the front sitting side by side to each other, i will try to put some pics tonite for you, this will enlarge the steering angle and can allow you to perform some real parking simulation!!

astroboycp

Hi takzi, thanks for the valuable advice. Will await for your photos.

takzi

Sure!

Bunch of us from Hong Kong actually run these semi on street on a weekly basis, so we have alot of rael mileage on our trucks~~~

Perhaps another advise is to use the thread lock while installing the chassis. Some of the guys has screws coming off from the main chassis during their runs, and that is something you dont want to happen on your truck~~

And it would be best to test drive the gearbox and other mechnical unit once the chassis is complete. Any modification (e.g. steering, stiffening the suspension for heavy load carrying, etc) should be done at this stage, the body should always be the last part to go on the truck~

Ideally, the gearbox may not be shifting very smoothly at the beginning, but it should be OK after a few pack of batteries when the shafts and joins starts to fit themselves in~

astroboycp

So far I've only used thread lock on those specified areas as according to the manual. You've got me thinking, now I would go back and recheck every possible screws and apply threadlocks on those too.[sm=thumbup.gif]

Another great tip.[sm=thumbup.gif]

lee172

the only metal to metal contact i wouldnt use threadlock on, is grub screws, as if they round off AND are also threadlocked, you aint never getting it off without ruining the pinion, on mine ive used it everywhere else where there is metal to metal contact.

astroboycp

Ok another set of photos on the original steering buildup. However, I will probably change it later as I am awaiting for the tip from takzi on a better steering setup.

takzi

OK..Here we go..

There are no text book answer to how you modify the steering config, but as long as it works that the inner wheel is turning greater than the outer wheel...then its fine, otherwise you will find your truck steering did turn but the truck still goes forward.....

This is just my way of doing the steering, it was modified form an original Tamiya FH12 chassis~
1) I move the servo in a similar config like other 3 axle tractor
2) Part of the steering cup has been chooped off because it was hitting the leaf spring
3) I have reversly install the cup so i can put the steering rod in~

THe original steering config is really sxxk~~~~ Not just the turning radius was so big, but that the inner wheel angle is actually smaller than the outter wheel (if you guys understand what i am saying here), so the truck simply wont turn!

Why they employ this config then you may ask? Perhaps just the only design they can think of because the chssis has been shorten compare to 3 axle tractor.

This setting has not yet expereince any failure, and i play this truck for a good 4 hour on a bi-weekly basis since it's purchase in 2005....so everyhting stills hold pretty nicely

Longhair

takzi, what are you using to hold the LEDs in place?

takzi

THe LED are tight fit into the bucket....

those are Blue Tac around the LED to prevent light leaking out, so it will further enhance the realism of the truck~

astroboycp

Great, will try to mod mine. Thanks for the tip.

takzi

No worries...

Perhaps you can first play with this original chassis, then when you feel like you want to go the extra mile, strip it down and do the mod........[>:]

astroboycp

Hey takzi, when you used the blue tack to seal in the leds, won't it get soft and messy when you run the truck under the sun. Just a thought.

takzi

It will get some dust on themselves for sure as you run, but i can replace those quite easily ...

takzi

Here is another config.....

This is a Benz 1838..which is also the same chassis as the Scania

astroboycp

Seems like the option is to put both servos right in front as shown on your photos.

takzi

Yeap...that is the key...

This will remove the extra pivot join (that part that you just start building)...and the power transferred will be much greater~

astroboycp

Would both servos be able to fit into the area as when I check mine, the height of the servo actually will block the transmission from sitting on the chassis if it were placed vertically parallel to the chassis?

takzi

I modified my one straight out of the box of a Volvo.....i doubt there is a difference between the two?

My servo sits nice and tight as yo can see from the picture~....