tennisman93

Hey guys i am new on here i recently got a e10 hpi car. i have a link to the exact car i got down below. i am really enjoying the car i and just wanting to upgrade the motor in it. I am very new to the RC world and dont know much.. i am really jsut wanting to make this car very fast with the minimum amount of work. i was just planning to upgrade the motor system to brushless first and go from there. i really am not trying to go crazy on price but i do want it to be very quick. i just dont know what motor would be best for what im looking for and do i need to just get a moter or do i need a motorand speed controler or will my stock one work with a new brushless motor. would it be bad if i jsut stuck a new motor in it? i am pretty sure it is a 540 can motor sizebut is that all i need to know when buying a motor? which motor would you guys recomend and if needed what speed controller too? thanks

tennisman93

Here is the link to the car i have

http://www.rcplanet.com/HPI_Racing_E.../hpi105978.htm

tennisman93

this was the motor i was looking at getting any opinions?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trinity-Spee...item1e80e37da6

phmaximus

Hey m8,

To run a brushless motor u will need a brushless ESC and ideally lipo batteries.

to do it on the cheap with great reliability get a Hobby Wing Ezrun 35a 4300k combo.
On a 2s lipo its going to be way faster than stock and on a 3s lipo it will be mental.....
but on 3s things will start braking or wearing out excessive fast and the cars handling limits will make it hard to drive.

for brushless u really want to fit some ball bearings, alloy main shaft, HPI CVD's, oil filled shocks, and the metal pinion mod to both diffs and shim them.

mercerbeef

Hey guys, I'm at a friends house and he's looking for a rally car, preferably 1:10 so he can get the body he likes. We want to know how much of the brama 10b will fit on the e10? We heard they share the same chassis.

phmaximus

from what ive seen they don't share much at all... its very similar, but different in some way. I think they share is the diff's but even then its a different diff housing.. oh and I think they share bellcranks and battery holder

SyCo_VeNoM

diffs, driveshaft, battery holder, spur, motor mount is 100% compatible


But make it into a rally car?
the Brama 10b was insanely brittle too honestly if you want a rally buy a Tamiya as for how much you will be flushing down the toilet in parts every time you run it you would pay a Tamiya off in 10 runs..

mercerbeef

Thanks, he already trashed a tt01 and split another tamiya in half. Do the still make the rally chassis? I don't remember if it's dfr4 or something?

SyCo_VeNoM

how in the hell did he split a Tamiya in half(and which one)?
Even the TT01 I've hit cement going damn near 40 made it fly 3-4 feet into the air from the hit, and land on its tires with no damage lol

The rally was the DF03RA

mercerbeef

He installed a vxl with lipo and somehow hit a tree after launching off a ramp, bad 1st test run lol. Wish I was there to see it. He said the chassis had hair lines in it and when he pushed it it split. The other chassis was an old s10 he got used, it's got a 10t brushed motor and a lrp. Landed off a ramp and cracked at the front.

SyCo_VeNoM

ahh so it had the split lines like my HPI EB10 did from a 27t stock motor run on pavement not hitting anything lol

Just for the record not many RC's would survive that 1st example even ones with aluminum chassis plates would bend if hit good enough

XtremeDad

Ok, I just picked up an E10, and now after the fact trying to look at upgrades for the Spur and such, I find that everyone says the E10 is crap...
I can only find that it has one stock spur spec plastic, and it says it isn't 48 pitch, some odd metric .6, so there is no changing pinions ?
The car I have picked up is mint, looks right out of the box with very little run time, with Stock 27 turn motor, stock everything...
So I guess, what I am needing to find out is do I really need to waste time putting any money into this car, or just trade or sell it for a
TC3 TC4, or maybe TC5 which has better upgrade options,?
New to street here, and just looking to bash for the moment, but there is a local track that runs, so if time permits, racing could be down the road...
I have read some threads about the aluminum upgrades for motor mounts, and one possible metal gears for the diffs, but if this car
can't be upgraded to brushless, it looks like it isn't worth putting the money into... All ideas and input is appreciated, thanks...

SyCo_VeNoM

If you want to do a on-road RC on the cheap options are the Tamiya TT01e kits are around $130 (don't go with the kits under that as they are the original tt01 design, and have issues). I have brushless in mine, and it handles it fine I put DF-02 metal diffs in it. But I also have upgraded steering to try and remove as much slop as possible, and dogbones.

The Associated TC's would probably be better out of the box(and even after TT01e upgrades)
There is also the Ofna JL10e which is what I would buy if I bought another on-road as its pretty cheap, and looks well made.

As for pinion... you can use Tamiya pinions on the E10. Upgrades are slim to none outside the propeller shaft...

XtremeDad

Thanks for the Info, Venom,,, and the heads up about the Tamiya pinions...

860Crawler

I've found plenty of upgrades. I'm not sure where you got slim to none from.

http://www.rcmart.com/advanced_searc...pi+e10&x=0&y=0

Here is a whole page of stuff. Just the first one on the page will change damn near the entire suspension and steering parts. Then there's adjustable shocks and locked diff gear through HPI. From there you've got dozens of wheel and tire choices.

About the only thing I haven't found for mine that I want is the front one-way differential as its been discontinued. I'm sure one will pop up out there somewhere on the internet.

Not a bad place to start for a drift/on road RC car out of the box. Not sure if he's trying to slide or not, to me it seems like he just wants it to go fast on-road which can be counter to drifting on-road. They say this car can go either way but I feel its focused more towards drift.

phmaximus

As u can see from the first 1/2 of this thread I fitted a lot of upgrades to my e10..... It was never really that good. And I ended up selling it.

sure it could drift in carparks but on a track it was hopeless, it just didn't have the pull u needed, I found it would drift way to wide and did not like changing directions.

im now running a old HoBao Hyper 10e, and the difference is night and day, because it's so easy to drift it makes me look like a pro at the track... Lol

i sware drifting has more to do with the setup than skill.

if ur drifting with a front one way will make it harder....sure it will give it rear brakes only (handbrake style) but it will essentially lock the front diff under acceleration... I find a loose front and a lock rear is the best.

XtremeDad

Thanks for the replies Crawler and Maximus, and yes I did find some upgrades on ebay, just meant that the model is older, and not like a Newer TC5 or 6.0 with more recent turn outs of upgrade products,,,
Basically what is left out there will be it,,, Sucks getting older,,, lol... And yes, mainly looking at road coarse racing not into Drifting... I have picked up some extra pinions, backup spur, and Alum motor mount, so far,
now gotta get a alum drive shaft, and time to get it all installed and tested out... Trying to get my shop setup, so it isn't such a mess working with all my different projects,,, I am sure it will be a decent car for beginner
learning on the street...

phmaximus

The e10 is a epic fail. It's got quality and design issues. It doesn't matter if u are a beginner or expert. The design flaws don't discriminate.

Personally i I wouldn't recommend a single upgrade. Sorry.... I use to love mine.... But not I hate it with a passion.

860Crawler

Ready for paint.

SyCo_VeNoM

I don't even think its a design issue as the design is similar to the Tamiyas. I think its more an issue with the quality of plastic used, and where they used it (like on the diff bevel gear). IMO if the E10, and even Brama 10b had chassis's made out of a less brittle plastic kinda like what the arms of the brama are made from(I swear they feel almost like delrin), had metal diff gears, out drives, and axles they would have been decent intro vehicles.
Personally I thought he design was superior to tamiya's, but the quality severely lacked.

860Crawler

Finished the body

860Crawler

Did some lighting on the body. Picked up Yokomo S13 light buckets and did some slight modifications to get them to sit in the ABC body. Who knew this thing would take so many lights? The control unit I got runs 10 LEDs and I'm still missing 10 lights on the car, the corner markers up front and another 8 in the tail lights.

cdb43

My body is torn... Does anybody have new body recommendations?

860Crawler

Most 195-200mm bodies can work I believe. ABC Hobby has nice quality bodies. Just check the wheelbase spec of the body your interested in and the spec of the chassis (I can't remember it at the moment). HPI website has the wheelbase dimensions listed.

cdb43

Will 260mm work with 255mm? I found a body that seems pretty cool and I will probably put lights on it.