drc35ca

Do you have pictures of the steering setup?? looks cool,never seen this done before?

teshi

Indeed I do From the photos below, the only components not from the Sprint 2 Drift are the short turnbuckle, the small rod ends and the long rod for steering. Everything else is from the Sprint.

The steering mech that was at the front has now moved next to the motor. I would recommend this on the opposite side to your pinion and far enough away so you can get the correct amount of lock. I shaved the arm down a little. I would recommend countersinking the newly made holes from underneath otherwise they will scrape and catch



Since the old steering setup has to go, I used two rod ends for the hubs and then a rod to go between them. I am going to make an adjustable one soon but for now this one is fixed so needed to be 110% accurate as toe adjustments are not going to be possible. The rod shouldn't be too thick otherwise it will hit the front frame so I would say anything thicker would not be a good idea.


After going brushless, just needed to swap the steering setup to the opposite side


I have documented nealy my entire build on Flickr (apologies of ext links are not allowed but with over 100 photos, sharing them all would be a bit of a pain). Any questions, please ask away -http://www.flickr.com/photos/3158454...th/8708773002/

WindyCitySquirrel

I run an aluminum chassis =
I like it a lot =
Plants the car
Haven't traction rolled yet

Quickstang

Hello everyone!   Im a new guy here just getting back into the hobby after a LONG break.  Just picked up a new HPI Sprint sport 2  Vaughn Gitten mustang.  Planning some upgrades pretty quickly ( brushless etc).  

Had a quick first question...   Im new to the drift world ( ex on road racer...pan cars in the 90s)   does anyone know what offset wheels come with the mustang?   Im looking at getting a couple different sets but want to stay inside the body.   Im thinking they are 3mm and 6mm.

Thanks for the help!   Im super excited to get back after this stuff!!

Car-Tune

That's right. 3 and 6 mm

Quickstang

thanks!

Dblex

My Feedback: (81)

Does anyone know if the new Sprint 2 Flux Camaro can be tamed down for a new driver? My son really wants bumble bee but I want to tone this car down. He fly's planes well now wants a car.

Is the ESC able to tone down?

Car-Tune

The way I do it is by my radio (transmitter) but I have a spectrum. The other way to do it is by speed controller but you will need the castle creations program.

drc35ca

A higher turn motor for crawling may help to slow the car down ?

Taniv

Hey rc maniacs! Thats my problem i got this car for about 2-3 weeks now, and first problem was that pinion gear wasnt screwd well so it come out and the grub scre got broken... So i replaced it with the new one. Went outside for the test drive , after 10 min the squeaking voice started to be louder and louder when i was accelerating. Its annoying its sound like 50 nails scratching a blackboard!!! Plus i dont want to break my engine if the problem is with engine... I checkecked the pinion gear and its all fine so what can that be?!!!! Really need some help to sort it out ad the nie weather coming out and i want to drive it lol. I prepared a short movie to make it easy for u guys to tell me what can that be



Please help me



[youtube] http://youtu.be/cMR21DJzh7A[/youtube] Hide Signatures

Car-Tune

Check your belt and pulleys, make sure they are not worn out

MF-DK

Sounds to me misaligned pinion and spur gear. Make sure both gears are aligned close and straight, not too close or it may all go too tight. It sounds like you have a small gap between them now.
You can move the pinion gear by loosening up the motor screws. Give screws on spur gear and center shaft (pulleys) a check also, just in case.

Taniv

Yes I have checked the pinion gear it was the problem, i make it more tighter but the problem is this pinion gear have kind of shorter (spikes?) they don't fit well to the spikes in the black wheel. so I had to make it more closer. it works fine now, but it may get looser after a time... will the thread locker help resolve the problem of the grub screw getting looser? 

thanks for quick answer 

MrJudd77

Hi Guys

rcjohnny77

Hey new to the forum, I have a sport 2 flux camaro all stock. I run it
in front of my house which is concrete with expansion gaps. The gaps are fairly smooth and I'm running the stock tires and it still will
spin out. I'm running a 2s lipo and need suggestions on getting it to stay planted. I know my surface isn't the best but thinking maybe tires,
or softer suspension maybe might help. What do you think?
I used to run a nitro tc3 on my street with an occasional spin out, and I'm thinking the tires were similar.

rcjohnny77

will this work for rear belt tensioner?
Thanks

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDBYA&P=SM

MrJudd77

Welcome rcjohnny.

I have the sprint flux 2 and had a bit of problem with unpredictable steering on my car when I was on track. Car would pull one way on power and the other way under braking.
I fixed this with a little help from one of my friends using his setup gear. We set the toe on the front to 2 degrees toe out which helped alot and also checked all the other adjustments to make sure they matched left to right.

There are a few mods that are suggested for the sprint 2 to improve the handling which revolves around removing the slop in the steering.

If you haven't done so already check out GPM Racing as they have a great range of hop up parts for the Sprint 2 that are available in a range of different colours. Just email them to find out what they can do. I just got a full order from them in orange which looks great see this pic.https://plus.google.com/u/1/photos?p...36756166459804

rcjohnny77

Thanks MrJudd77,
I didn't even think about setting the toe, been about 6yrs since I ran my TC3 heavy duty. That's alot of aluminum on there, I'll have to wait on hop-ups right now. I've been unemployed for a season.
Do you have a pic of your body on the car. A man with that much alum under the hood has got to have a sharp body ! Thanks again, I'll give you an update on those adjustments.

rcjohnny77

Made adjustments on front steering, did help. But I think biggest problem is a 2c 4500 lipo. It steers so quick, I have stock hpi radio and is there a way to slow down the steering.
I've been in rc for 15+ yrs so I got a few skills. Seems like this camaro wasn't meant to drag without dropping some $ in it. I started drifting it so maybe that will be my goal for now.

MrJudd77

Unfortunately there is no way to tune the dual, rates with the stock radio. You could try playing around with the end points.

The body on my car is the stock 911 Porsche. I do have another shell that I need to get painted up. It is a Nissan R31 Skyline Wagon (It will be painted to match my actual 1:1 car) I have attached a pic of my car to give you an idea.

Good to hear the toe settings helped. I run a 2s 4750 30c LiPo and it does make the car respond quickly. Most of the problems with the car (and there are not that many) are to do with the steering slop and the lack of dual rates in the stock radio. I am looking to raplace mine soon, I think I will end up with one of the ebay ones like thishttp://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221225763...84.m1423.l2649

Taniv

Okay so to make it more simple i will write a couple bullet points, so all can see what i would like to help.

1 - How to do the tighter rear belt? what does it give? and why so many people do it?

2- There is no video how to put all the parts after i took them off im scared im gonna break something, of replacing rear belt any advice on that?

rcjohnny77

which specific car

Taniv

Sprint 2 Flux i got it not that long ago

MrJudd77

I haven't had top change my rear belt yet, I don't run on the street where I am likely to pick up rocks that could shred it.

The belt tensioner is there to keep the belt tight when you use it. After repeated use the belt stretches and you will need to adjust the tension further and further until you will need to replace it.

The belt tensioner mod that people have done before is mainly for the older style Sprint 2 that had the purple alloy bits in it. It had a different top plate and path that the belt ran along. This path would make the belt rub on the top front corner of the battery so some clever cookie came up with a simple mod to lift the belt clear of the battery. The newer Sprint 2 with the orange bits does not need this mod as the top plate has been changed which allows the belt to clear the battery.

The other mods that are no longer required are the cut out of the rear section and the extra holes in the bottom plate as these have been done as a factory redesign.

Hope that helps a little. Welcome to the world of Sprint 2 and just have a go you are not likely to break it, use a little common sense and don't force anything together. Also remember to add a little lock tight to any screws that go into metal and check all other screws are tight after each run.

rcjohnny77

Open up link below, go to page 20 on down to see parts lay out.
It will start downloading the manual.

http://www.hpiracing.com/assets/manuals/pdf/108765.pdf