DarthRacer

My Feedback: (2)

***. That solidifies me doing a light kit on my own. Holy Moose Balls thata a lot of money for LEDs and a control box.

ro.sniper

For that price I could get myself 2 batteries... that's nuts!

skottoman

You could probably utilize the tamiya starter LED kit. Can add more later if you want...

DarthRacer

My Feedback: (2)

That's cool. Do you know if the control box simulates real lights at all, for example brakes?

skottoman

If you add this unit, you can have all sorts of lighting options, but then you're over the cost of the HPI unit.

ro.sniper

Are there any videos of the Cup Racer in action yet?

Jpsonoma

Sorry guys, I've been gone for a while. My cup racer is still broken, and they haven't seemed to release spare parts for this thing yet.
But on a better note, I did find this picture. Looks like HPI has a new body and wheels for the cup racer already.

skottoman

Did you look here to see if your broken part is available yet?

ro.sniper

I finished my build!!!!Well except the body... I'm running the 5700KVSidwinder Combo, with a Futaba 3PM radio combo, I bought the onyx 230 charger and a duratrax 4200mah nimh battery which doesent fit properly grr.... I will post pictures as soon as I get my camera back from my gf!

skottoman

Nice! That thing will FLY with a Sidewinder in it! For sure you'll be traction flipping that thing if you're not careful, so be aware when you take it out for a run with your nice new painted body on it!

ro.sniper

Haha will do... this is my first onroad car, and I stayed up till 1 am in my basement and made a little mini track, and it was a lot of fun. I'm at work now pretty tired but it was worth it. I can't wait to see what it does in a parking lot. I'll take it easy until i get a feel for the handling. Is traction rolling when it grips really hard in a turn then flips? Could it be prevented with sway bars?

Cheers,

raz

yama86

Well here is the progress I've made so far.

I have the car together and I took it out for some shakeout testing andtrued up my steering. It ran really well. I ended up using my DX3R for TX/RX, a Trinity Kimodo 19t, and a Novak GTS esc.It's afast little car, and fun to zip around with. I really like how well the car went together.

I also laid some paint on the body today. I broke the #1 rule of Lexan and painted the black parts of the car on the outside so I could have a matte finish. I am going for the "weekend racer look".

skottoman

Very nice! Nothin wrong with painting the outside of the body. It's your car, and you can do whatever you want. You may have scuffs from time to time, but that's what the cars are for! ENJOY!

ro.sniper

I got mine done too! It came together very nicely.. I had no problems assembling although the bags seemed to be just thrown together but oh well. I have the Sidewinder 5700kv Combo powered by a 4200Mah NiMh Duratrax battery, with the Futaba 3PM Radio system. Its really zippy and a lot of fun, I took it took her to a freshly paved parking lot and it was crazy grippy.

This is also my first time to ever cut, paint and finish a body. And I deffinitely learned about some mistakes I made when painting it. It also seems that you need more then 1 can of tamyia paint for the body. Overall not too much trouble except sticking the mask on the Z headlighs because of their odd shape.

Here are some pics:

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skottoman

Very nice! I bet that thing flies with the sidewinder!!! Should get faster as it breaks in too!

ro.sniper

Lol at the "road rash gives character", ya it files with the sidwinder but I think Ineed to gear down as the motro does heat up quite fast, I'm looking at getting a 24T pinion. Also thats a good tip, I should have done a coat of black over the last coat of orange... oh well next body I know what to do. It was deffinitely a different experience painting and cutting the body as I have never done that before. A little rock also managed to get in the pinion/spur case and Ithink that it was trapped in there due to the enclosed area and it was making a sort of tunk tunk tunk noise every turn... ughhh i thought something broke in the diff and Iwas sad until i found the rock. You are also right the more I drive it the smoother it is. I haven't done a traction roll yet but when Ipunch it I can almost drift.

yama86

Well now I'm completely finished. I just put the finishing touches on the body. I decided to leave the mirrors and wipers off for now. I may paint them matte black and put them on later though.

I had a learning experience with the body for sure. I use an airbrush to paint, and I have always done a few light coats and hit them with the hairdryer between coats. Then I always back it with silver or white. I just do one coat right after the other and it doesn't take too long to do.I havepaintedquite afew bodies this way, and never hada problem. This time I decided to back with black to take some of the crazy "pop" out of the red I was using. I did my usual 2-3 coats, dryer, then backed with black. I let it sit for an hour and came back to check on it, and the black had bled through the red on the doors on both sides of the car. I decided to pull off the overspray film and do some painting on the outside of the body to cover my mistake. I masked off the top half of the body and did each lower side in primer black. The results I ended upwith are ten times better than the original paint scheme I was going for. I love the way the body turned out.

I'm going to let the body sit fora few more days so the paint can fully cure and then go run the snot out of this little rocket.

ro.sniper

That looks really sweet a truly great job!

skottoman

Dood! Your mistake was a blessing in disguise! The matte black on the outside looks sooooo amazing! I'm going to have to try that sometime. Did you use lexan paint for the outside? I wonder if it will chip off? Regardless, as of now for the "new build" pix, it looks frikin' awesome!!!!!

yama86

The paint I used was a primer used for painting metal and plasticminiaturefigures. It is made by GamesWorkshop. I've used it on a bunch of different surfaces and it seems to bond to just about anything on the planet Thanks for such a nice complement. I was so bummed when the original idea went bad, so it is really cool that I ended up with paint-job better than I expected.

ro.sniper

Do you do full speed runs when breaking it in?

Cheers,

Raz

skottoman

YES!

Budget Monty

I was pretty much ready to buy one of these, untill I noticed on the HPI website that there are plastic driveline parts on it. After the nightmare i had with my HPI Brama 10B, I just cant bring myself to buy one. I had some HPI cars back in the day when they truly were quqlity. But now that their name is popular and thought of as quality, they seem to be cutting corners in the wrong areas. This sucks too, because this car looks amazing otherwise!

ro.sniper

Acutally the build quality felt excellent to me, the pieces fit perfectly and it's crazy adjustable, the front diff is full metal and the rear is a ball diff, the shaft is aluminum, i do have to say the front cups are plastic for the dogbones, but i think that will be a hop up item in the future... Idon't know... Iown a tmaxx 3.3 and that driveline is plastic in certain spots also. Ialso own a HPIFirestorm 10Tnitro and thats of excellent quality and its been solid from the start. Anyway its your choice what your purchase. Cheers, raz

Budget Monty

It's not so much that they used plastic, it's the places that they deceided to use it. The plastic HPI drivecup was a complete failure on the Brama 10B, i dont see why it would be any better on the CR. HPI's site said that the front drive cups were metal, and the rears were plastic, did they get it reversed? Can the diffs be swapped fron to rear? I would prefer the metal drivecups and sealed diffs over the ball diffs and plastic drivecups personally. If I could just buy the seasled diff, and metal cups to make the whole car that way, I'd probably buy one of these.