Spetz

Guys, I am excited today, I just bought an FF01 chassis and a beams Integra shell. I have some questions and require a bit of help.

1. The FF01 comes with a 540 motor, but I want a motor that revs high, doesn't have much torque though, and it's power is mostly in the top end (to mimic the real VTEC powerplant). What motor do people recommend?

2. What body mount set should I use to make it fit without drilling holes into the shell?

3. I noticed there are no window stickers so that they stay clear, and instead there are black windows. How does this look? I was thinking about cutting out the window stickers so that only the edges show (like in other kits) and somehow masking up the windows inside to have them clear, and then spray tinting them. Will this look much better or is it not worth the effort?

4. What tyres should I get? And any recommended hop ups?

I'm excited smile.gif

lee172

1. the Super Stock motors look to be your best bet, unless you can find and old motor, such as the Dyna Tech or similar...

2. very Tamiya bodyshell ive owned came pre-drilled, whats so bad about the normal way of mounting?

3. if your going to tint the windows anyway, leaving black stickers on wont make that much difference.

4. depends what you want, slick, semi slick? i like the 53293 reinforced slick type a [8D]

Spetz

1. I have a super stock type S tamiya motor in my TB01 and it has way too much low end power, and little top end. So it's difinitely not the kind of motor I want. I was thinking something like a 17 turn, quad or quint if possible? This would give most of it's power in the top end?

2. Sorry I didn't make it clear. On the Integra box it says that I need to drill NEW holes to mount on a FF01. I was wondering if there is any body mount set that I can use so I mount the shell using the original holes rather than drill new ones?

3. I meant, would leaving the windows clear + spray tinting them look much better than just using the standard black stickers?

lee172

with regards the motor i think you will have to seek out an oldie.

do you actually have the FF-01 with you? bear in mind the FF-01 can be used to make a shorter version (like my Golf VR6)... if its set up like this you will need certain parts to make it a 257mm wheelbase again...

i'm just guesing, but if the body holes are the same width apart on the body as on the FF-01, then i reckon it can be done, as you have plenty of options to move them back and forth as required.

its hard for me to answer the tinting question, as i prefer my windows clear, so maybe search around for some images that feature tinted and stickered Integra's

Spetz

I don't have it yet, it had the new beetle shell on so I guess it's a short wheelbase?
I didn't think of the wheelbase problem
How hard/expensive are the parts to make it 257mm wheelbase?

lee172

the short wheelbase thing was unknown to me till i read the instructions, so i suggest you have a look at the manuals on Tamiya Club and check out the build process.

like you, i dont know which other FF-01's have the short chassis, aside from the Clio.

if you need the 'extra' parts a check of the manual will provide you with parts numbers, till then i cant comment on price or availability.

also, my FF-01 thread has pics of the lengthening part, as i remember LB asked about it..

Spetz

Ok I'll check it out now
btw, where'd you get the carbon bits?

Spetz

I found the carbon bits but for $90 USD[X(]
Are most TA02 and FF01 parts interchangable?

lee172

to run the CF chassis kit, you also need (53166) the FRP chassis set (which contains important hardware).. the two of these would cost around 300$.. thats if you can find the FRP chassis set....

quite a few parts are interchangable.

Spetz

You need the carbon AND the FRP chassis set? Not just one?

Do you have a scanned manual or know where I can download one?

And, any list of what TA02 parts are interchangable? As from a quick search, it seems that FF01 parts are hard to find however there are plenty of TA02 parts out there

lee172

think i may have found the "VTEC" motor....

a mad 27,000 rpm with less torque than a silver can! (250g/cm)


http://www.rcstation.com/product_inf...oducts_id=1561

as i said the FRP chassis set contains the hardware, so the CF chassis plates are useless without the FRP chassis set

Spetz

Only 27,000rpm from 11 turns???

By hardware you mean the battery plate etc?
I haven't been able to find the FRP chassis kit

lee172

i'm not surprised.

if its only 27,000 rpm from 11 turns, how about you try and research? i quit this thread, there's no helping some people.

Spetz

Maybe you should understand what I said before making such bold statements.
I meant 27,000rpm is fairly low from an 11 turn engine, considering Super Stock motors rev to 23-24,000rpm

Allan Aguilar

I had my FF01 since 1998 which have a Volvo 850 body. Upgraded this with adjustable suspension arms, adjustable tie rods, full bearings, front universal shafts, LRP no limit brushed ESC and used a Team Orion quad 10 turn motor. Installed the smallest spur gear (which came with the kit) and a 24T pinion. This car is a rocket on straight lines and asphalt pavement. But too much power is somewhat hard to control. I also used a Sorex belted 32 tire and it hooked up well. The drawback is since it is a front wheel drive, you will tend to oversteer a lot on tight turns as you don't have rear brakes, so your rear tires should always be a softer compound.

Some of the TA02 parts can be interchanged with the FF01 like the C-Hub, hub carrier, axle, and some chassis parts, but make sure to do your research, one thing that you have to be aware is to check the TA02 parts label on the parts bag that the "FWD" is printed, and you will be certain that it can be used for the FF01.

I hope this helps.

Spetz

Thank for the input
When you say rocket in the straight line, do you mean top speed or acceleration?

And how is traction with your 10x4 motor? I also considered getting a low turn high wind motor, hoping it'd spin the wheels less and give me more power while moving rather than off the line.
Can you floor the throttle or does that just cause wheelspin with that motor?

High wind motors are becoming hard to find for some reason lately

Allan Aguilar

Sorry Spetz, I was not specific about the word "Rocket". It was fast on a straight line top speed. Traction for this motor will depend on various track and atmospheric condition. Since I tried to race this car on club level before against the 4x4 touring cars (TC3's, Yokomo's & HPI's) I was in a disadvantage in jumping off the line. With the right suspension, tire set-up and driving skills, you may out perform the other drivers with your FWD car. Sad to say I was not that skillful in driving during those times.

You can actually floor the throttle from a stand still but you will just spin the wheels thus leaving you behind the pack. If I may suggest, the all around motor for both bashing and with a good top speed plus a lot of torque is a 19 turn motor like the Trinity Chameleon. I have 2 of these in excellent condition as this is now very scarce. There are still low winds brushed motors out there especially in the popular on-line auctions, just search for motors or armature on the toy and hobbies/Radio Control & Control Line/Radio Control Parts & Access. section of that on-line auction.

Enjoy your FF01, this will soon be a vintage chassis, so keep it. [8D]