BillMill

Anyone know if the DF-03Ra needs foam inserts for the rally block tires? They are not included or mentioned in the kit. In general, how will they change the car's performance?

rrmorseb18c

Anybody know the size of the thrust bearing in the differential? One of mine is toast and need a new one asap. Would also like to know some other bearing sizes. Thanks

nbla

I think I broke my rear diff again the same way after the first battery pack. I must be doing something wrong because this isn't normal. Do I have any options when it comes to locked diff rear btw?

Thanks

nbla

Can anyone help me? Maybe I've tightened the diff itself too hard? The front diff is ok though. I would really like some help here since I have very little experience with these kind of things.

Amgman39

Good morning,

My friend has been experiencing the melted rear diff problem that has been reported by at least a few members. He is on at least his second diff and we believe it is related to one of the following:

- Running a high KV brushless motor on a 3S LIPO (he has a Mamba Max Pro with a 5700kv motor).
- Locking down the wheels too tightly and not allowing the driveline to roll smoothly

I also have a DF-03RA and have had problems with the rear diff but it did not melt like my friend's rear diff. The tightening screw for the diff keeps backing out on me and the diff gets too loose and I start having problems getting power to my rear. I believe I am not melting my diff since I am running a lower KV brushless system. I decided to use a Traxxas VXL system since it is a lower KV system and I have a slipper so my driveline has held up with 3S power. I have also made sure my wheels are not tightened down too hard.

We are also hoping the white parts from Tamiya are made out of better grade plastic than the original parts that came with the kit. We are trying out the white parts like these:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMSD1&P=Z

We are also looking at playing with different types of grease to see if that would help. I think a loose diff may be causing too much friction and the balls heat up enough to completely melt the plastic.

I may also try locking the rear diff using JB Weld:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXR376&P=ML

However, a locked really affects the handling of the car. I have a locked rear diff in my TB-03 and it now handles pretty badly.

I am going to stick with an open diff, stay with the lower KV systems and loctite the tightening screw once I get it to the right pressure (more on the tight side than loose side). I am hoping this will keep my diff happy.

Best of luck!

rrmorseb18c

My rear gearbox is starting to sound a little loud, it feels like the mesh between the metal gear and nylon gear is too tight. I cleaned, inspected and reinstalled the gears but still the same . Is white lithium grease ok to use in the gearbox? Any one know why the gearbox would be noisy?

merlot

just picked up one of these used and was wondering if the following would be a good place to start  to get it running.  this is my first rc car and looking forward to getting it running 

ozace

I use the turnigy 3600 2s pack, its the biggest i can fit in (so good choice)
The rest of the stuff sounds about right too and "economical" to purchase.
You should have lots of fun with it (i love mine)

13thwarrior

Does anyone know the exact part numbers and purchasing links for the gold rims that come with the DF-03RA 07 Monte Carlo Impreza and the 2008 Impreza wagon? I bought some gold 10 spoke rims that looked just like the stock rims that came with the 07 monte carlo but i can't find the exact rims for either kit. thanks

also links if possible, thanks!

rayrush

Hi, i have just purchased trf42102 dampers for my df o3ra, but i cant find any details on what grade oil, piston hole and o ring setup. The instructions only state setups for other chassis. I am using on tight asphalt and paved circuit and maybe a very small jump. Would appreciate if someone could give me some direction. Also what is better silicone or vg? Thanks

rayrush

Hi, i have put universal shafts in my df03ra. Just want to know if you still need the foam bits in the diff joint where the dog bone meet? Thanks

ozace

I am putting my second dfRA together right now and i used the foams in the diff cups

aflipz

My Feedback: (10)

ozace, of course you are, you are using stock parts, you have to use them.

Rayrush does not.. he has CVD's but he CAN if he wants to. (just make sure they don't cause stiffening of the suspension, if they do then take them out)

ozace

Nope, using the cvd's. Without the foams there is too much play

aflipz

My Feedback: (10)

Sorry, my bad.

Which ones did you get? And where exactly is this play? (I mean does the ball end wiggle around in the outdrive or is it it's ability to move unrestricted in and out* of the outdrive that bothers you?)

The foams are there stock to keep the dog bone roughly centered between the two cups, without them it would either bind or fall off or bind, then fall off. They come with a necessary disadvantage of deforming when the suspension is compressed which takes some force (which adds to the spring rate past a certain point) I dislike this property; I'd rather set my spring rate with springs.

With CVD's your axle is attached to the dog bone so it maintains its position on it's own, and it is supposed to be able to move freely in and out* of the outdrive some amount when the suspension travels.




*not completely out of course...

ozace

I have the Yeah racing ones (for df-03ra). The movement in and out of the outdrive from the gearbox is just too great without the foams, this aint no buggy (as you all well know) and the suspension travel is not that great.

I just find the foam plugs help keep eveything in its place without causing any restriction

rayrush

Thanks for your help guys! Also do you know if tamiya has full set of the blue hard turnbuckles for the df03 ra? I have searched everywhere but only come up with the df 03 type which i think are too long. Cheers

rayrush

Hi, Does anyone know the part number for the gold rims that come with the 2008 subaru version. Also thinking about putting a tekin redline 13.5 brushless in . Will the motor fit and is it too powerfull for the diff etc? Thanks

13thwarrior

if anyone has this info it would be very helpful, thanks

iexion

I just bought one of these chassis on flebay for $100 flat. I wanted the df03ra but found the df03 for pretty cheap (w/ unpainted extra body + 16t motor + Hitec servo)

Might Of missed it somewhere
Question:

How much would you need to swap out in order to convert the 03 to a 03ra?
aside from wheels and tires/ body post and bumpers... Im thinking drive shafts, suspension (A) arms, shock bodys and the body post would all need to be changed out[:-]

13thwarrior

you will need what you listed up above and...

shorter dogbones
shorter turnbuckles and tie rods

iexion

Even tho the kit came off flebay, Gotta say being my first Tamiya RC is one of the best kits I've ever owned. There is ZERO slop in the steering. Im going to end up getting parts over the next couple of weeks then convert it to an 03RA[:-]

MD6

You might enjoy these pictures and the video.

http://www.rallybrno.cz/galerie-detail.php?id=96


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvlJv8C-mP4

CCW_tester

What springs work with this kit? I am looking for some softer springs. Thanks.

iexion

I took the time to make a list out of the parts that would be needed to convert the DF03 to a DF03ra chassis. The basic search was done via ebay so if anyone has an idea of a store online that sells alot of Tamiya parts that would help. Its roughly a little over $70 to convert the chassis over. If I can find ONE store to buy the parts from the cost would drop easily $10-$30 [:-]

51366
51367 x 2
51368


50883 x 4 SHAFT
~2500024 x 8 Tie Rod
50875 x 16


~MA1 9804159
MA4 50577
MA10 9805976
~MA15 9808063 x 8
~MA17 9804205 x 8
MA31 50823 x 4
MA40 53923
MA41 51370

Total $72.47