sho_shane

My Feedback: (1)

I just got an older 4-tec, Its in pretty bad shape but I hope to bring it back to life. When I got it it was tore all apart and I have since put it back together. I put this system: http://www.traxxas.com/products/elec...ges/Box-LG.jpg, It was a very tight fit and probly way more power then this car needs. But when running should be fun to drive.

Ok I hooked everything up and its a no go. Like this SC does not have a plug for the BAT spot on the reciver? So im not sure what plugs in there? Iv tryed every combo I can, So it looks like this:

CH1-steering servo
CH2-speed Controler
BAT-?

BigTb17

You won't need to plug anything into the "BAT" port on the receiver. The ESC will power the receiver directly through the connection at CH2.

First things first, did you read the manual for the speed control? It's been a long time since I've used a Traxxas controller (and I've never used the VXL) so I can't give you specifics, but there should be a setup process to calibrate the ESC to the radio.

If that doesn't work you will have to start troubleshooting. For example, are your battery connections good, is the battery itself good, does the steering work when the battery is plugged in, or does nothing work at all?

sho_shane

My Feedback: (1)

It did not come with a mani so im not sure of the setup. The ESC comes on but nothing works. No steering or anything.

I have 3 receivers to chose from:
1. Stock Traxxas one.
2. Hitec one.
3. Some No name one.
Witch one should I be using?

Im really stuck here.

mazdaprotege4

My Feedback: (32)

You should be able to get the manual from the traxxas website.  I would make sure that your transmitter and receiver are both on the same frequecy (27 or 75mhz) and the same channel.

sho_shane

My Feedback: (1)

I checked that thinking the same thing and they both match. I used the cristals in both the reciver and remote that came with the kit.

mazdaprotege4

My Feedback: (32)

Can you post some pics of the setup?

sho_shane

My Feedback: (1)

Sure, When I get home tonight ill post it up.

sho_shane

My Feedback: (1)

Well thanks so much for the help. I got it running lastnight. Man it has so much power. This motor is way to big for this car tho. Im not going to pull it off, just make the rest of the car stronger

Besides im setting my car up for drifting so I guess you can always use more power.

So on first run with the new Brushless Motor I blew the rear diff out. So its sitting again till tonight. I need to figger out a way to lock up the rear diff. THe front is still pulling ok but with the rear blew out it will take out the front diff if I run it. [&:]

sho_shane

My Feedback: (1)

Also will a 200mm body fit on my 4-tec? It came with some Ken somthing S15 body?

mazdaprotege4

My Feedback: (32)

You should see if you can make the diff from the nitro 4-tec work in the electric 4-tec

Druss

A 200mm body will work but you might need offset wheels.

sho_shane

My Feedback: (1)

The only way I know how to find out is to ask you guys here.

Freequensee

It will work. eBay has sellers that sell complete diffs with bearing and gears and even the tension cams. If you have the right front diff case (the one that can hold the larger bearings) then the nitro diff conversion will be a breeze.

Just keep in mind that the larger diff pulleys will create extra tension in the belts. (at least, it happened only to me)

Yes and no. Yes, if you keep the stock electric arms on but you would need some crazy wide offset wheels. The stock width is abut 185mm. No if you have the nitro arm set up. With the nitro arms, the wheelbase is shortened and the wheels don't line up with the wheel wells. The body itself will fit the chassis, but having part of the wheel hiding behind the body...