Homebrew fuel dyes
03-29-2011, 10:43 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Homebrew fuel dyes
What is a suitable dye to use in homebrew fuel? I will have at least 2 different mixes and want to be able to distinguish one from the other and be able to tell how much is left in the tank.
03-30-2011, 04:55 AM
#3
Thread Starter
RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
ORIGINAL: Dave Harmon
I use green, red and purple liquid food dye.
Works great.
I use green, red and purple liquid food dye.
Works great.
03-30-2011, 05:00 AM
#4
RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
I have used acetone but it really depends on what engine I'm using and how much nitro.
Dont use Armor-All. It has silicone in it that will ruin the glow plug. A glassy like substance will form on the coil....probably the silicone.
Dont use Armor-All. It has silicone in it that will ruin the glow plug. A glassy like substance will form on the coil....probably the silicone.
03-30-2011, 05:07 AM
#5
Thread Starter
RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
ORIGINAL: Dave Harmon
I have used acetone but it really depends on what engine I'm using and how much nitro.
Dont use Armor-All. It has silicone in it that will ruin the glow plug. A glassy like substance will form on the coil....probably the silicone.
I have used acetone but it really depends on what engine I'm using and how much nitro.
Dont use Armor-All. It has silicone in it that will ruin the glow plug. A glassy like substance will form on the coil....probably the silicone.
03-30-2011, 09:05 AM
#7
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RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
What can be used for the reduction of fuel foaming , if anything ? I have resolved several engine stall mysteries that were cause by foaming. I did this by proper tank isolation so I was never really sure if fuel anti-foaming additives ever come into play.
03-30-2011, 09:54 AM
#8
RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
ORIGINAL: Bobhend
What can be used for the reduction of fuel foaming , if anything ? I have resolved several engine stall mysteries that were cause by foaming. I did this by proper tank isolation so I was never really sure if fuel anti-foaming additives ever come into play.
What can be used for the reduction of fuel foaming , if anything ? I have resolved several engine stall mysteries that were cause by foaming. I did this by proper tank isolation so I was never really sure if fuel anti-foaming additives ever come into play.
I've never had a foaming problem....ever.
Armor-All DOES work...but as I said, it will kill the glow plug.
Photography film wetting emulsion was used in the really old days....I never have tried it but that's the word.
Todays fuel mfgrs claim a lot of things but I think most of it is hype.
The reason I say this is because I can shake a gallon of any fuel and it foams.....even my own home brew with Klotz or straight castor oil, VP nitro and methanol alky will foam.
I can add about 10 drops of Armor-All to any fuel, shake and it dosen't foam.
This does not mean that any mfg does not add something to reduce foam...just that if they do add something, it doesn't work.
03-30-2011, 01:10 PM
#9
Thread Starter
RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
ORIGINAL: Dave Harmon
Having the tank properly installed and a balanced prop is always the way to go.
I've never had a foaming problem....ever.
Armor-All DOES work...but as I said, it will kill the glow plug.
Photography film wetting emulsion was used in the really old days....I never have tried it but that's the word.
Todays fuel mfgrs claim a lot of things but I think most of it is hype.
The reason I say this is because I can shake a gallon of any fuel and it foams.....even my own home brew with Klotz or straight castor oil, VP nitro and methanol alky will foam.
I can add about 10 drops of Armor-All to any fuel, shake and it dosen't foam.
This does not mean that any mfg does not add something to reduce foam...just that if they do add something, it doesn't work.
ORIGINAL: Bobhend
What can be used for the reduction of fuel foaming , if anything ? I have resolved several engine stall mysteries that were cause by foaming. I did this by proper tank isolation so I was never really sure if fuel anti-foaming additives ever come into play.
What can be used for the reduction of fuel foaming , if anything ? I have resolved several engine stall mysteries that were cause by foaming. I did this by proper tank isolation so I was never really sure if fuel anti-foaming additives ever come into play.
I've never had a foaming problem....ever.
Armor-All DOES work...but as I said, it will kill the glow plug.
Photography film wetting emulsion was used in the really old days....I never have tried it but that's the word.
Todays fuel mfgrs claim a lot of things but I think most of it is hype.
The reason I say this is because I can shake a gallon of any fuel and it foams.....even my own home brew with Klotz or straight castor oil, VP nitro and methanol alky will foam.
I can add about 10 drops of Armor-All to any fuel, shake and it dosen't foam.
This does not mean that any mfg does not add something to reduce foam...just that if they do add something, it doesn't work.
I think I'll try the first batch using just methanol, nitro, and castor oil and run the engines. If I have a hard time getting a good idle and harder starts I'll add some acetone. The last time Acetone was discussed in hombrews, a few people noted to not use more than 3% acetone per gallon. That works out to 3.84oz per gallon. Why do you say only 1oz per gallon?
03-30-2011, 03:10 PM
#10
RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r
I often wonder what these fuel manufacturers really add if anything when they claim stuff like: ''Proprietary performance boosting additives'', ''Rust inhibitors'', ''Anti-foaming'', ''Increased flowability for maximum engine performance and optimum lubrication'', and ''nitrogen-blanketed raw materials''. These were found on Trinity Monster Horsepower Car fuel, and Byrons Gen2 Aero. I've found that if you shake either of these two fuels they will develop some foam, however dissipates fairly quickly. I mixed the Byrons down from 15% nitro to 5% nitro using fresh methanol and adding castor oil to get the oil content to 20%. This fuel foams up the same as the straight byrons did. I'd assume that most of the above (we'll say additives for simplicity) additives aren't really additives and more hype than anything. One says ''Faster starting'' .. Doesnt seem to matter - my engines start the same on whatever fuel I have in them.
I think I'll try the first batch using just methanol, nitro, and castor oil and run the engines. If I have a hard time getting a good idle and harder starts I'll add some acetone. The last time Acetone was discussed in hombrews, a few people noted to not use more than 3% acetone per gallon. That works out to 3.84oz per gallon. Why do you say only 1oz per gallon?
ORIGINAL: Dave Harmon
Having the tank properly installed and a balanced prop is always the way to go.
I've never had a foaming problem....ever.
Armor-All DOES work...but as I said, it will kill the glow plug.
Photography film wetting emulsion was used in the really old days....I never have tried it but that's the word.
Todays fuel mfgrs claim a lot of things but I think most of it is hype.
The reason I say this is because I can shake a gallon of any fuel and it foams.....even my own home brew with Klotz or straight castor oil, VP nitro and methanol alky will foam.
I can add about 10 drops of Armor-All to any fuel, shake and it dosen't foam.
This does not mean that any mfg does not add something to reduce foam...just that if they do add something, it doesn't work.
ORIGINAL: Bobhend
What can be used for the reduction of fuel foaming , if anything ? I have resolved several engine stall mysteries that were cause by foaming. I did this by proper tank isolation so I was never really sure if fuel anti-foaming additives ever come into play.
What can be used for the reduction of fuel foaming , if anything ? I have resolved several engine stall mysteries that were cause by foaming. I did this by proper tank isolation so I was never really sure if fuel anti-foaming additives ever come into play.
I've never had a foaming problem....ever.
Armor-All DOES work...but as I said, it will kill the glow plug.
Photography film wetting emulsion was used in the really old days....I never have tried it but that's the word.
Todays fuel mfgrs claim a lot of things but I think most of it is hype.
The reason I say this is because I can shake a gallon of any fuel and it foams.....even my own home brew with Klotz or straight castor oil, VP nitro and methanol alky will foam.
I can add about 10 drops of Armor-All to any fuel, shake and it dosen't foam.
This does not mean that any mfg does not add something to reduce foam...just that if they do add something, it doesn't work.
I think I'll try the first batch using just methanol, nitro, and castor oil and run the engines. If I have a hard time getting a good idle and harder starts I'll add some acetone. The last time Acetone was discussed in hombrews, a few people noted to not use more than 3% acetone per gallon. That works out to 3.84oz per gallon. Why do you say only 1oz per gallon?
See post #4 for why only 1oz acetone.
Most guys in the USA use nitro in farly large amounts but other places in the world can't get nitro or if it is available the price is outrageous so they use low amounts...like 5%.
They use very low or no nitro in the fuel and a heckova lot more acetone to get their engines to start easily and idle sort of ok....propolyne oxide is much better for this.
Fuel mfgrs may use an igniter but I know what prop and acetone smells like when mixed in fuel. if they are using something it for sure is not prop or ace. Cost will prevent prop. Storing it is a problem too. It evaporates very quickly. If using a lot of acetone there could be a problem with a painted airplane or possibly the fuel tank.
Some 4 stroke engines have the valve cover painted inside. YS engines are painted. Dont use acetone in a YS unless you remove ALL the paint from the inside of the valve cover.
Prop does not seem to bother the paint. The silicone parts in YS engines are not affected by either of these additives.
I prefer propolyene oxide instead of acetone even though it costs far, far more than acetone.
What engines are you using? I might be able to reccommend something.
Oh...always use aluminum tubing in the tank....not the brass that comes with the tank. over time the brass reacts with fuel and causes contamination. Don't use a sintered clunk either...same reason. Same in the jug.
03-30-2011, 05:00 PM
#11
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RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
ORIGINAL: Dave Harmon
Right....What you just said was what I said previously.
See post #4 for why only 1oz acetone.
Most guys in the USA use nitro in farly large amounts but other places in the world can't get nitro or if it is available the price is outrageous so they use low amounts...like 5%.
They use very low or no nitro in the fuel and a heckova lot more acetone to get their engines to start easily and idle sort of ok....propolyne oxide is much better for this.
Fuel mfgrs may use an igniter but I know what prop and acetone smells like when mixed in fuel. if they are using something it for sure is not prop or ace. Cost will prevent prop. Storing it is a problem too. It evaporates very quickly. If using a lot of acetone there could be a problem with a painted airplane or possibly the fuel tank.
Some 4 stroke engines have the valve cover painted inside. YS engines are painted. Dont use acetone in a YS unless you remove ALL the paint from the inside of the valve cover.
Prop does not seem to bother the paint. The silicone parts in YS engines are not affected by either of these additives.
I prefer propolyene oxide instead of acetone even though it costs far, far more than acetone.
What engines are you using? I might be able to reccommend something.
Oh...always use aluminum tubing in the tank....not the brass that comes with the tank. over time the brass reacts with fuel and causes contamination. Don't use a sintered clunk either...same reason. Same in the jug.
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r
I often wonder what these fuel manufacturers really add if anything when they claim stuff like: ''Proprietary performance boosting additives'', ''Rust inhibitors'', ''Anti-foaming'', ''Increased flowability for maximum engine performance and optimum lubrication'', and ''nitrogen-blanketed raw materials''. These were found on Trinity Monster Horsepower Car fuel, and Byrons Gen2 Aero. I've found that if you shake either of these two fuels they will develop some foam, however dissipates fairly quickly. I mixed the Byrons down from 15% nitro to 5% nitro using fresh methanol and adding castor oil to get the oil content to 20%. This fuel foams up the same as the straight byrons did. I'd assume that most of the above (we'll say additives for simplicity) additives aren't really additives and more hype than anything. One says ''Faster starting'' .. Doesnt seem to matter - my engines start the same on whatever fuel I have in them.
I think I'll try the first batch using just methanol, nitro, and castor oil and run the engines. If I have a hard time getting a good idle and harder starts I'll add some acetone. The last time Acetone was discussed in hombrews, a few people noted to not use more than 3% acetone per gallon. That works out to 3.84oz per gallon. Why do you say only 1oz per gallon?
ORIGINAL: Dave Harmon
Having the tank properly installed and a balanced prop is always the way to go.
I've never had a foaming problem....ever.
Armor-All DOES work...but as I said, it will kill the glow plug.
Photography film wetting emulsion was used in the really old days....I never have tried it but that's the word.
Todays fuel mfgrs claim a lot of things but I think most of it is hype.
The reason I say this is because I can shake a gallon of any fuel and it foams.....even my own home brew with Klotz or straight castor oil, VP nitro and methanol alky will foam.
I can add about 10 drops of Armor-All to any fuel, shake and it dosen't foam.
This does not mean that any mfg does not add something to reduce foam...just that if they do add something, it doesn't work.
ORIGINAL: Bobhend
What can be used for the reduction of fuel foaming , if anything ? I have resolved several engine stall mysteries that were cause by foaming. I did this by proper tank isolation so I was never really sure if fuel anti-foaming additives ever come into play.
What can be used for the reduction of fuel foaming , if anything ? I have resolved several engine stall mysteries that were cause by foaming. I did this by proper tank isolation so I was never really sure if fuel anti-foaming additives ever come into play.
I've never had a foaming problem....ever.
Armor-All DOES work...but as I said, it will kill the glow plug.
Photography film wetting emulsion was used in the really old days....I never have tried it but that's the word.
Todays fuel mfgrs claim a lot of things but I think most of it is hype.
The reason I say this is because I can shake a gallon of any fuel and it foams.....even my own home brew with Klotz or straight castor oil, VP nitro and methanol alky will foam.
I can add about 10 drops of Armor-All to any fuel, shake and it dosen't foam.
This does not mean that any mfg does not add something to reduce foam...just that if they do add something, it doesn't work.
I think I'll try the first batch using just methanol, nitro, and castor oil and run the engines. If I have a hard time getting a good idle and harder starts I'll add some acetone. The last time Acetone was discussed in hombrews, a few people noted to not use more than 3% acetone per gallon. That works out to 3.84oz per gallon. Why do you say only 1oz per gallon?
See post #4 for why only 1oz acetone.
Most guys in the USA use nitro in farly large amounts but other places in the world can't get nitro or if it is available the price is outrageous so they use low amounts...like 5%.
They use very low or no nitro in the fuel and a heckova lot more acetone to get their engines to start easily and idle sort of ok....propolyne oxide is much better for this.
Fuel mfgrs may use an igniter but I know what prop and acetone smells like when mixed in fuel. if they are using something it for sure is not prop or ace. Cost will prevent prop. Storing it is a problem too. It evaporates very quickly. If using a lot of acetone there could be a problem with a painted airplane or possibly the fuel tank.
Some 4 stroke engines have the valve cover painted inside. YS engines are painted. Dont use acetone in a YS unless you remove ALL the paint from the inside of the valve cover.
Prop does not seem to bother the paint. The silicone parts in YS engines are not affected by either of these additives.
I prefer propolyene oxide instead of acetone even though it costs far, far more than acetone.
What engines are you using? I might be able to reccommend something.
Oh...always use aluminum tubing in the tank....not the brass that comes with the tank. over time the brass reacts with fuel and causes contamination. Don't use a sintered clunk either...same reason. Same in the jug.
the myth that you cant get an engine to idle on 0% nitro is NOT TRUE. it is somewhat true in 4 strokes but in two strokes it makes very little if any difference. i have a gms.47 that will idle around 1200 rpm on 0% nitro and a supertigre 51 that will do 1800 and 2 .46 and a .52 magnums thats will hold around 2000....all of these will literally idle all day at this rpm (ive run 10oz through them at said rpm and they never died....took forever to burn off...at least an hour.
4 strokes do take a noticible hit with 0% nitro, about 500-1000 rpm's but a onboard glow solves that issue and they will idle as low as 30% nitro with onboard glow if not better.
nitro and acetone are not needed
now to color fuel i just use food coloring, i have not noticed any effects from it, the rpms are posted from fuel with coloring added.
03-30-2011, 07:37 PM
#12
RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
I agree with jimmyjames, I don't use nitro (or acetone usually) and if I can't hand start any engine with one or two flicks I know I haven't primed it correctly. In a fuel with no nitro, acetone at up to about 3% in a 2 stroke can give the same effect as about 5% nitro as far as idling goes but I've never had a problem getting an engine to idle without the acetone. As far as water goes, acetone preferentially absorbs water before methanol which is likely the reason it's called a drying agent.
As for Armorall, it's been used since forever in Australia and no one has any problems with plugs. Some time ago I dosed up a tank full of fuel with a HUGE amount of Armorall to see what would happen to the plug. Nothing at all. Many years ago there was a problem with plugs getting a growth on the coil (it was called "taters" because it looked like a tiny potato
) but from memory it was tracked down to a certain brand of fuel at the time and, also from memory, it was most prevalent in CL combat engines.
A note about Armorall though, they've changed the formula and the latest Armorall doesn't have the silicone in it which is the part that stops any foaming.
As for Armorall, it's been used since forever in Australia and no one has any problems with plugs. Some time ago I dosed up a tank full of fuel with a HUGE amount of Armorall to see what would happen to the plug. Nothing at all. Many years ago there was a problem with plugs getting a growth on the coil (it was called "taters" because it looked like a tiny potato
) but from memory it was tracked down to a certain brand of fuel at the time and, also from memory, it was most prevalent in CL combat engines.A note about Armorall though, they've changed the formula and the latest Armorall doesn't have the silicone in it which is the part that stops any foaming.
03-30-2011, 07:53 PM
#13
RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
Hello Down...
I knew it wouldn't take long for you to show up!
Jimmy.....no one said that engines won't idle on no nitro fuel....so I don't know why you think you need to say something like that.
Down confirms that acetone improves idle and in no nitro fuel gives a power increase as well.
One thing I don't understand though is how acetone can absorb water....Downunder can you explain that?
That 'tater' phenom was caused by the original KLOTZ Ultraglow oil. I had the same problem and had some discussion with some pattern friends down there relating their experience with that darn oil. I bumped into John Klotz at a expo and I mentioned it. He said they were aware of it and he sent me a case of the new formulation and I never had any more trouble.
Also, just one tank of the 'old' armorall wouldn't kill the plug....it took several gallons but finally the glass looking beads would show up on the plug.
I knew it wouldn't take long for you to show up!
Jimmy.....no one said that engines won't idle on no nitro fuel....so I don't know why you think you need to say something like that.
Down confirms that acetone improves idle and in no nitro fuel gives a power increase as well.
One thing I don't understand though is how acetone can absorb water....Downunder can you explain that?
That 'tater' phenom was caused by the original KLOTZ Ultraglow oil. I had the same problem and had some discussion with some pattern friends down there relating their experience with that darn oil. I bumped into John Klotz at a expo and I mentioned it. He said they were aware of it and he sent me a case of the new formulation and I never had any more trouble.
Also, just one tank of the 'old' armorall wouldn't kill the plug....it took several gallons but finally the glass looking beads would show up on the plug.
03-30-2011, 08:12 PM
#14
Thread Starter
RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
In reply to Dave - for aero engines, I have 2 k&b sportster .65 drone engines, and a TT .46 Pro. For car engines I have an orange Mach 427, SH .28 p6, and 2 Traxxas 3.3's. I have other engines but they need rebuilds. I'll stick with my original plan on not using acetone. The aero engines will be run on 5% nitro and 20-25% castor. The car engines will be 20% nitro, and 15% castor. If I can find high compression heads for the car engines, I'll run them on 5% nitro too.
Forgot t mention - I'm going to get a Jett .46 or .56 this summer sometime.
Forgot t mention - I'm going to get a Jett .46 or .56 this summer sometime.
03-31-2011, 05:27 AM
#15
RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
ORIGINAL: Dave Harmon
Down confirms that acetone improves idle and in no nitro fuel gives a power increase as well.
Down confirms that acetone improves idle and in no nitro fuel gives a power increase as well.
One thing I don't understand though is how acetone can absorb water....Downunder can you explain that?
03-31-2011, 07:12 AM
#16
RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
Yes, I did misread what you said about acetone adding power....sorry bout' that!
If the acetone molecule steals away the water molecule it has to go somewhere....so, I suppose it is still in the fuel.
I did a little research on this and it turns out that acetone does not ABSORB water, it DISPLACES it.
So....as I understand it....the water is still in the fuel, it can't be removed unless the jug sits undisturbed until droplets form in the bottom.
A long tube might then be used to suck out the water.
If there is not very much water in the bottom I think I would shake the jug and run it!
If the acetone molecule steals away the water molecule it has to go somewhere....so, I suppose it is still in the fuel.
I did a little research on this and it turns out that acetone does not ABSORB water, it DISPLACES it.
So....as I understand it....the water is still in the fuel, it can't be removed unless the jug sits undisturbed until droplets form in the bottom.
A long tube might then be used to suck out the water.
If there is not very much water in the bottom I think I would shake the jug and run it!
03-31-2011, 04:42 PM
#17
RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
A few years ago I did an experiment to find out what happens when there's water in the fuel. I started with 0.5% water, ran the engine and if it seemed OK I flew the model. There wasn't any difference in how the engine hand started, idled or flew until I got to around 3-4% water. At that point, all of the oil simply came out of the mix and dropped to the bottom of the tank. Further experiments back home showed that the critical % of water was temperature related. The higher the fuel temp the more water needed to make the oil come out of solution. There was a slight difference in this critical temperature between all castor and all synthetic. These experiments were done with zero nitro fuels so I don't know what affect nitro might have. Maybe one day I'll repeat the experiment with some acetone in the fuel and see what happens .
.
04-09-2011, 06:21 AM
#18
Thread Starter
RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
I made my first batch of homebrew for my car engines. 20% nitro, 12% castor oil (same % as the shelf fuel I used to get). I tried it undyed for a base test. My test mule was a Mach 427 that hadn't ran in almost 2 years. The engine tuned very well, and even gave me a few wheelies which I could never get on 25% shelf fuel. I'm happy. My homebrew smells a bit different than the shelf fuel I used.
04-17-2011, 05:20 PM
#19
Thread Starter
RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
I ran into a problem unrelated to fuel dyes today which didnt surface the last time I ran my homebrew mix. Foam and air bubbles in the fuel line. I was running one of my 1/8th scale monster trucks and had a bubble nightmare. The engine kept idling really high after a run and after needling for a bit I noticed air bubbles. I tried about 1/2 drop of silicone shock oil in the fuel (just in the tank) and it cured the foam problem for that tank but I dont want to use silicone in the main jug of fuel. What can I add that will keep bubbles more at bay? The aero engines dont have a problem with bubbles until I get below 1/4 tank but the car fuel tanks cannot be isolated in the way(s) aircraft fuel tanks are/can be.
The engine ran and tuned perfectly with the silicone in the fuel, but again I dont want to resort to that if I dont need to.
The engine ran and tuned perfectly with the silicone in the fuel, but again I dont want to resort to that if I dont need to.
04-17-2011, 06:00 PM
#20
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RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r
What can I add that will keep bubbles more at bay?
What can I add that will keep bubbles more at bay?
04-18-2011, 05:56 AM
#21
Thread Starter
RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
ORIGINAL: cutaway
Look into tanks with an internal balloon. The idea is if there's no air present, you won't get foaming as the fuel is agitated.
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r
What can I add that will keep bubbles more at bay?
What can I add that will keep bubbles more at bay?
04-18-2011, 06:57 PM
#22
Thread Starter
RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r
I can't use a bubbleless tank on my rc cars. They have fuel tanks that are mounted on isolators and are of odd sizes and shapes. I will get bubbleless tanks for my boats but I can't for my cars. ( and I have 4 cars )
ORIGINAL: cutaway
Look into tanks with an internal balloon. The idea is if there's no air present, you won't get foaming as the fuel is agitated.
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r
What can I add that will keep bubbles more at bay?
What can I add that will keep bubbles more at bay?
The fuel tanks on my rc cars cant be changed out, and dont use a clunk in the tank. They just draw from the lower rearmost part of the tank. At very-low fuel levels, there's enough vibration to get bubbles in the line no matter the rpm of the engine, but I was getting a lot of bubbles even at low RPMs. The fuel tank on the truck in question is held onto the chassis by 3 studs with rubber isolators.
04-18-2011, 10:15 PM
#23
RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
First....you should make sure the pickup line in the tank does not have any pinholes or split at the outlet or the clunk.
You can remove it from the tank and pull on the line to see if it is in good condition.
If it's ok....replace it anyway, then you can get a YS foam clunk from Central Hobby.
These are made for the YS DZ series engines to prevent bubbles from entering the pickup line.
I don't think it is going to fit through the Hays tank opening though.
It will fit the Du-Bro tanks.....I'm using several of them on my airplanes.
If you STILL can't get this fixed, try a header tank as used in helicopters.
As long as the header pickup is below the surface of the fuel, you shouldn't get air into the engine.
A 1oz Du-Bro tank is fine....I use one of them too.....probably won't need the YS foam clunk with the header tank.
You can remove it from the tank and pull on the line to see if it is in good condition.
If it's ok....replace it anyway, then you can get a YS foam clunk from Central Hobby.
These are made for the YS DZ series engines to prevent bubbles from entering the pickup line.
I don't think it is going to fit through the Hays tank opening though.
It will fit the Du-Bro tanks.....I'm using several of them on my airplanes.
If you STILL can't get this fixed, try a header tank as used in helicopters.
As long as the header pickup is below the surface of the fuel, you shouldn't get air into the engine.
A 1oz Du-Bro tank is fine....I use one of them too.....probably won't need the YS foam clunk with the header tank.
04-19-2011, 07:58 AM
#24
Thread Starter
RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
ORIGINAL: Dave Harmon
First....you should make sure the pickup line in the tank does not have any pinholes or split at the outlet or the clunk.
You can remove it from the tank and pull on the line to see if it is in good condition.
If it's ok....replace it anyway, then you can get a YS foam clunk from Central Hobby.
These are made for the YS DZ series engines to prevent bubbles from entering the pickup line.
I don't think it is going to fit through the Hays tank opening though.
It will fit the Du-Bro tanks.....I'm using several of them on my airplanes.
If you STILL can't get this fixed, try a header tank as used in helicopters.
As long as the header pickup is below the surface of the fuel, you shouldn't get air into the engine.
A 1oz Du-Bro tank is fine....I use one of them too.....probably won't need the YS foam clunk with the header tank.
First....you should make sure the pickup line in the tank does not have any pinholes or split at the outlet or the clunk.
You can remove it from the tank and pull on the line to see if it is in good condition.
If it's ok....replace it anyway, then you can get a YS foam clunk from Central Hobby.
These are made for the YS DZ series engines to prevent bubbles from entering the pickup line.
I don't think it is going to fit through the Hays tank opening though.
It will fit the Du-Bro tanks.....I'm using several of them on my airplanes.
If you STILL can't get this fixed, try a header tank as used in helicopters.
As long as the header pickup is below the surface of the fuel, you shouldn't get air into the engine.
A 1oz Du-Bro tank is fine....I use one of them too.....probably won't need the YS foam clunk with the header tank.
04-19-2011, 08:07 AM
#25
RE: Homebrew fuel dyes
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r
I don't have a bubble problem with my aero engines! It's only in my rc car engines that I'm getting bubbles. All of the fuel lines on all of my models were replaced with new lines. Car engines vibrate a lot more than my aero engines. The felt flunks were a ''just for the heck of it'' sort of thing. The rc car tanks can't be isolated any better than they are so something needs to be added to fuel I think.
ORIGINAL: Dave Harmon
First....you should make sure the pickup line in the tank does not have any pinholes or split at the outlet or the clunk.
You can remove it from the tank and pull on the line to see if it is in good condition.
If it's ok....replace it anyway, then you can get a YS foam clunk from Central Hobby.
These are made for the YS DZ series engines to prevent bubbles from entering the pickup line.
I don't think it is going to fit through the Hays tank opening though.
It will fit the Du-Bro tanks.....I'm using several of them on my airplanes.
If you STILL can't get this fixed, try a header tank as used in helicopters.
As long as the header pickup is below the surface of the fuel, you shouldn't get air into the engine.
A 1oz Du-Bro tank is fine....I use one of them too.....probably won't need the YS foam clunk with the header tank.
First....you should make sure the pickup line in the tank does not have any pinholes or split at the outlet or the clunk.
You can remove it from the tank and pull on the line to see if it is in good condition.
If it's ok....replace it anyway, then you can get a YS foam clunk from Central Hobby.
These are made for the YS DZ series engines to prevent bubbles from entering the pickup line.
I don't think it is going to fit through the Hays tank opening though.
It will fit the Du-Bro tanks.....I'm using several of them on my airplanes.
If you STILL can't get this fixed, try a header tank as used in helicopters.
As long as the header pickup is below the surface of the fuel, you shouldn't get air into the engine.
A 1oz Du-Bro tank is fine....I use one of them too.....probably won't need the YS foam clunk with the header tank.
Fuel is fuel....as far as bubbles are concerned.
Put a header tank in there....rubber band it onto something.....you have to keep the pickup below the level of the foam.
There has been a lot of good advice from several people, have you done any of it yet?