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Old 06-24-2011, 07:29 AM
  #51  
tony0707
 
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Default RE: Fuel mixing advice

hi
thought about mixing fuel many times-the problem is you have to buy in large quantities for the price to be justified-so then you have storage issues -not for me !
i read that if you buy enough nitro you will be hearing from some government agency due to a possible terrorist issues i am paying 17.00 a gallon for 15% at the LHS so just not worth the trouble to me been using MORGAN OMEGA in my two cycle glo engines for 18 of my 20 years flyingthe stuff keeps my engines new internallycan not remember the last time i had to change a bearing in 18 years
BEST REGARDS TONY
Old 06-24-2011, 10:02 AM
  #52  
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Kero, A quick test is what I'm after initially. That way I don't spend the 33 and 23 for material Idon't know if I canuse. I picked up the S-L-X about 1/2 hr. ago. Still need a #6 plug.
Old 06-24-2011, 10:42 AM
  #53  
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ORIGINAL: TCraft Lover

Kero, A quick test is what I'm after initially. That way I don't spend the 33 and 23 for material I don't know if I can use. I picked up the S-L-X about 1/2 hr. ago. Still need a #6 plug.[img][/img]
Speaking of glow plugs, I wish that there were a universal listing of all brands and models' temperature range so that you can compare temp. ranges across the board. We know within a brand what is hotter, but between brands, we don't except by experience. But who is going to buy all the brands and models and evaluate that?

I guess this is a hobby, so "seat of the pants" evaluations are what we go by. But it would be nice....
Old 06-24-2011, 10:48 AM
  #54  
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ORIGINAL: TCraft Lover

Kero, A quick test is what I'm after initially. That way I don't spend the 33 and 23 for material Idon't know if I canuse. I picked up the S-L-X about 1/2 hr. ago. Still need a #6 plug.
Yeah you definately need that plug with the denatured alcohol. When you do get one, I can't wait to here your results with your big Super Tigre.

If it runs well with the denatured alcohol it will definately run well with FAI fuel. Carb settings will be the same too. Well you might have to richen the high speed needle a click or two, at least that's what happened with my OS .25 LA.

Good luck.

How is the compression on that engine? With my ST .40, it's like the ring never really seated well and it still has very little compression. However, it runs very well and with great power too.
Old 06-24-2011, 10:50 AM
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Kero, A quick test is what I'm after initially. That way I don't spend the 33 and 23 for material Idon't know if I canuse. I picked up the S-L-X about 1/2 hr. ago. Still need a #6 plug.[img][/img]
Speaking of glow plugs, I wish that there were a universal listing of all brands and models' temperature range so that you can compare temp. ranges across the board. We know within a brand what is hotter, but between brands, we don't except by experience. But who is going to buy all the brands and models and evaluate that?

I guess this is a hobby, so "seat of the pants" evaluations are what we go by. But it would be nice....
I find that agravating too. Well I guess one has to find a brand he or she likes and then stick with it.
Old 06-24-2011, 11:13 AM
  #56  
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Kero-
The ring is well seated and I gotta say that this is the coolest sounding engine to just flip over by had. Easy starts too, just a back flip against compression and she goes. I'll try to post any info I come up with. How does 2 oz of castor and 8 oz of S-L-X sound for a ratio.


Dave

Old 06-24-2011, 11:27 AM
  #57  
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Kero-
The ring is well seated and I gotta say that this is the coolest sounding engine to just flip over by had. Easy starts too, just a back flip against compression and she goes. I'll try to post any info I come up with. How does 2 oz of castor and 8 oz of S-L-X sound for a ratio.


Dave

TCraft, no experience myself with these big 2-stroke glows, but I believe that the large ST engines require LESS oil. Maybe 20% might work ok, but I was told by other owners that they are designed to run at lower than 20% oil. I don't know how much, but I suspect the ST manual will say.
Old 06-24-2011, 12:01 PM
  #58  
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Kero-
The ring is well seated and I gotta say that this is the coolest sounding engine to just flip over by had. Easy starts too, just a back flip against compression and she goes. I'll try to post any info I come up with. How does 2 oz of castor and 8 oz of S-L-X sound for a ratio.


Dave

TCraft, no experience myself with these big 2-stroke glows, but I believe that the large ST engines require LESS oil. Maybe 20% might work ok, but I was told by other owners that they are designed to run at lower than 20% oil. I don't know how much, but I suspect the ST manual will say.
OOPS!!! My apologies, I checked in the Towerhobbies website and the ST 2300 requires 18% minimum oil. It is the ST3200 that requires 14% oil. Well, live and learn!!! By the way, the ST3200 is on supersale, $40 off.
Old 06-24-2011, 01:03 PM
  #59  
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Not a problem. These Tigres can get kind of confusing. My manual covers all of them from the G34 ot my G2300.
Old 06-24-2011, 01:26 PM
  #60  
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Not a problem. These Tigres can get kind of confusing. My manual covers all of them from the G34 ot my G2300.[img][/img]
Would you know the difference between the G2300 and the G3250? The G3250 is much larger but is rated at lower power. What's up with that?
Old 06-24-2011, 01:42 PM
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Kero-
The ring is well seated and I gotta say that this is the coolest sounding engine to just flip over by had. Easy starts too, just a back flip against compression and she goes. I'll try to post any info I come up with. How does 2 oz of castor and 8 oz of S-L-X sound for a ratio.


Dave

Hmm...maybe it just needs more running, I mean compression has increased some, but I don't think it's all there yet.

That ratio sounds perfect. Can't wait to hear the results.
Old 06-24-2011, 01:43 PM
  #62  
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I have noticed that myself a couple years ago when I got my G2300. Kinda strange isn't it?
Old 06-24-2011, 01:49 PM
  #63  
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Default RE: Fuel mixing advice

Keropower-
Is your .40 a ringed engine? Say what you will about ringed motors not making the power but I still love'em.
Old 06-24-2011, 06:11 PM
  #64  
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Keropower-
Is your .40 a ringed engine? Say what you will about ringed motors not making the power but I still love'em.
I noticed that my ringed engines change their compression feel depending on their temperature. Right after a run when it is warm, doesn't hardly any compression. After it cools off, tons of compression.
Old 06-24-2011, 08:01 PM
  #65  
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ORIGINAL: Sport_Pilot

There are a lot of people that say AA will kill glow plugs,
Those that do are confusing Silicone with Silicon.
Silicone oil is made with silicon the element. The same is true for silicone rubber (yup, your fuel line for glow stuff).

Continuous burning decomposes the silicone oil and silicon the element deposits on the glow element, glassing it over and fouling it. It doesn't happen overnight so you are safe for a few gallons. By the time it happens you should probably change the plug anyway, so you've lost nothing in the end
Old 06-24-2011, 08:22 PM
  #66  
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Yes the my little ST .40 is ringed and it makes great power. I have also noticed how when the engine is hot, compression is very low. When cold it has more.

I hope I didn't mess up the break-in. But the general rule of thumb (according to my glow engine book) is that with ringed and lapped engines, one knows when they are broken in when they can hold peak power for 30 seconds without sagging. My ST .40 will do this, but it doesn't have very good compression. So it's broken in, but not really?

Anywho, I'll just keep running it.

When I broke in my ringed Magnum .52 four stroke, compression camp right up during break in. It now has diesel like compression. But the exhaust valve leaks very slightly. I think I just need to adjust the valves though. Not much if not any clearence between the rockers and the valves.Very tight.

Old 06-24-2011, 08:39 PM
  #67  
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Yes the my little ST .40 is ringed and it makes great power. I have also noticed how when the engine is hot, compression is very low. When cold it has more.

I hope I didn't mess up the break-in. But the general rule of thumb (according to my glow engine book) is that with ringed and lapped engines, one knows when they are broken in when they can hold peak power for 30 seconds without sagging. My ST .40 will do this, but it doesn't have very good compression. So it's broken in, but not really?

Anywho, I'll just keep running it.

When I broke in my ringed Magnum .52 four stroke, compression camp right up during break in. It now has diesel like compression. But the exhaust valve leaks very slightly. I think I just need to adjust the valves though. Not much if not any clearence between the rockers and the valves.Very tight.

I have had nothing but trouble with my Magnum 52 4-stroke. doesn't to build up enough compression, no power, and near impossible to get low idle. I definitely think that engine needs special 4-stroke fuel. I have been running 2 stroke fuel with synth/castor blend. I have done everything I know to get it to work right. I will test it soon and if not good, send in to repair. I doubt that engine is a candidate for homebrewed fuel.
Old 06-24-2011, 09:02 PM
  #68  
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My Mag is not in a plane right now. It's my only 4s right now. Well I did have a Mag .30 and it ran ok, but both valves leaked horribly. Even tried lapping them with lapping compound and an electric drill. Still leaked. But I now realize it is the guides. They don't really guide the valves straight up and down. Valves kind of wiggle. So it is impossible to get a good seal.

The Mag .52 runs well for me. When I had it flying, I was using Omega 10% and an OS F plug. But you know quality varies with these cheap engines.

But I don't really like the four strokes anyway. I'd take a smooth running OS LA engine any day over a four stroke. I know that sounds lame, but I just love the way my .25 LA sounds and runs with that mousse can muffler. It makes that "tinging" metallic sound like a two stroke dirt bike.

Old 06-25-2011, 03:30 AM
  #69  
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Default RE: Fuel mixing advice

Kero
To my way of thinking, if your ST 40 idles and has correct top end rpm then it's just fine. If it won't idle or overheats after a short period at max rpm then there could be a problem. I remember seeing old K&B engines sitting on the groundwith propsfreewheeling in the breeze. But as soon as they were fired up they ran great.
Old 06-25-2011, 05:22 AM
  #70  
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Default RE: Fuel mixing advice

ORIGINAL: KeroPower

Yes the my little ST .40 is ringed and it makes great power. I have also noticed how when the engine is hot, compression is very low. When cold it has more.

I hope I didn't mess up the break-in. But the general rule of thumb (according to my glow engine book) is that with ringed and lapped engines, one knows when they are broken in when they can hold peak power for 30 seconds without sagging. My ST .40 will do this, but it doesn't have very good compression. So it's broken in, but not really?

Anywho, I'll just keep running it.

When I broke in my ringed Magnum .52 four stroke, compression camp right up during break in. It now has diesel like compression. But the exhaust valve leaks very slightly. I think I just need to adjust the valves though. Not much if not any clearence between the rockers and the valves.Very tight.

When you broke in that ringed engine, did you run it at wot very rich? I have an ST S90K ringed that when I got it the compression was incredible. After a little over 1 quart of fuel, the compression is higher yet. (WOT 4-stroking for first tank, leaned down over another tank and a half) When hot, the compression doesn't change and shouldn't on a ringed engine IMO. I'm not sure of the run in my .90 is fully seated, but the entire surface of the ring is shiny. This engine has about 1/2 gallon on it, mostly on the stand. Single backflip starts 90% of the time.

ABC engines will have a slight compression decrease when warm, but should come back shortly after shutdown. (at least in my experience)
Old 06-25-2011, 05:31 AM
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Dupe post, browser messed up.
Old 06-25-2011, 05:34 AM
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I have 2 early style K&B Sportster .65 engines. Both were unrun when I got them, 1 still unrun. I debaffled the muffler and I've found these engines to have a unique set of sounds that you don't hear in BB engines. You wouldn't think an engine would run right making squeaky chattering noises, but surprisingly it runs well and swings big props nicely. Bad carburetion causes a really rich midrange, but that's easy to fix. Performance got better and compression got better on lower nitro all castor fuel.
Old 06-25-2011, 05:55 AM
  #73  
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Yeah I'm sure no engine guru but it seems to me that SOME older engines and euro. brands do very well on low -no nitro fuel. That's one reason I'm heading out for a #6 OS plug this morning. I'm itching to do my Meth./castor test.
Old 06-25-2011, 06:11 AM
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ORIGINAL: TCraft Lover

Yeah I'm sure no engine guru but it seems to me that SOME older engines and euro. brands do very well on low -no nitro fuel. That's one reason I'm heading out for a #6 OS plug this morning. I'm itching to do my Meth./castor test.
ST Engines are known for being intolerant of nitro over 5%. Some run 10-15% nitro in them with no problems. I tested 5% and 15% on my TT .46 Pro engine and having a minimal effect on rpm made me go with strictly 5% nitro. My K&B overheats on 15%. The TT ran 250-300rpm less on 5%. I'm gonna test FAI in the ST .90 next week.

I like using long reach plugs in engines that are supposed to use long reach plugs. Most OS plugs are short or medium reach. There are long reach OS plugs, but I don't know what they are off-hand since I don't use them.

Do you have to come to the cities to hit the hobby shop or is there a shop up by you?
Old 06-25-2011, 07:33 AM
  #75  
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Yes I did exactly what you did to break it in. Rich four cycling and progressively leaned it out. The ring is all shiny now.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=400

Scroll down to the Wish List and he also mentions the soft compression.


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