jdan

My Feedback: (1)

I see more and more engine reviews for nonringed engines using
Cool Power fuel. I thought this fuel was only recommended for
ringed engines. Has something changed ?

toyking23

My Feedback: (4)

I run Cool Power 10% in my 0S 1.08 ring, 2/OS .25's and 2/OS .46's non-ringed engines, and have no problems. I have disassembled all the engines the .25 mostly due to combat crashes the .46 to check for peeling. I have found no problems with any of them. I have run them with and without 2 ounces of castor added per gallon, and see no difference. I add it for piece of mind. The .46's probably have had 6 or more gallons run through them and are around 3 years old, still running with no problems. Except for a stupid pluming problem on one that was corrected. I always add after run oil and keep clean.

jdan

My Feedback: (1)

Sounds good. I like Cool Power. I use it in all my 4 strokes. I'll
start using it in all my engines.

SARGE

My Feedback: (8)

What percentage of oil is in Cool Power?

ramcharger

I use 10% Cool Power for every 2c and 4c engine I have. That includes two ABN engines (OS 46FX & Webra 50 Speed) that each have hundreds & hundreds of flights on them. I once put over 60 flights on the OS 46FX in one week on 90 F weather and it still turns a 11x6 prop at 13000 rpm. There is simply no way anyone can tell Cool Power is bad for an engine. In all the ways fuel performance is measured - consistency, anti-rust, lubrication, engine perforance, cleanliness, odor, and cost it is right at the top. I have used it since 97. I use it in my OS 91 Surpass, Rossi 45 RE, Enya 50CX, OS 46SF, 25FX, 15FP, MVVS 49, and all Super Tigre's.

sthill

I switched to Cool Power on my 46FX after I got sick of cleaning up WildCat... Same power, easier cleanup. I’m pretty sure CoolPower is 17% Synthetic... The green fuel is cooler looking than red anyway ;-) Hey do you think they could label their product as being "green" and keep the EPA out of the sport???

noahb

My Feedback: (67)

I run 15% coolpower in everyengine I own. I have several fourstrokes, and lots of two strokes. It has 18% total synt. I love coolpower, no messy castor to clean up and I have been flying for 8 years, 5 years with coolpower... and never had a lick of problem with any of my engines...hope this helps. Keep in mind that it won't matter what you run...if you abuse the engines, they will hate you for it...LOL

Sense963

My Feedback: (10)

I've been thinking of running CP in my 4c's. os91 & saito 45. Does the general consensus think this is wise??? Would welcome some opinions regarding this for obvious financial reasons.... The OS seems to be kinda hot after a run...even up near the valve cover, is this normal?????????

Fuel Dinosaur

Cool Power green fuel is 17% all synthetic oil If you read any of the Morgan Fuel ads in the airplane magzines, they recommend OMEGA for ABC and ABN engines and I would assume AAC and similar constructions. In my experience, this fuel comes up far short of the long term lubrication requirements of these engines. If you are interested in a simple cleanup after flying, this is fine, otherwise, my advice, despite the previous comments would be to use a fuel containing some castor, like Omega, Wildcat (18% total oil, but a synthetic/castor blend at 80% synthetic and 20% castor, and 10-15% nitromethane. For 4-stroke engines, you might consider 18% total oil, either all synthetic or LOW castor, 0-4% total castor of the 18% oil and 15% nitromethane for sport flying. We used to use up to 60% nitromethane for racing and added propylene oxide, nitrobenze and you name it. That, like Cool Power does NOT mean it is for our more modern ABC and ABN engines. If you measure wear over time, you will find that some castor on these engines provides a high film strength layer on the non-force side of the crank, one that often burns most of the way off with synthetics. A lot of modelers have the green and pink fuel as their main or only local hobby shop choice. For the ABC engines and OS 2-strokes (ABN), the pink is a far better choice for long term performance and engine life. There are many commercial fuel choices that are better than this one in my experience. Sorry to disagree, but it is always good to hear BOTH sides and really, ALL sides of the story.

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

I have been using using Cool Power since about 89 or so, in all my engines, to date I have never change a piston except in two of my YS 140L which was due to the piston skirt chaffing the cylinder wall a known problem, it run very well I do hover with the YS 53 and the 46FX no problem there either.

I think that you can run whatever fuel you want just be careful on the tuning, if you go to lean you will literally pay the price

Daniel D.

breeza

I use cool power in all my abc engines thunder tiger,os,fox abc and all my four cycle engines with out a problem, I do run the engines fairly rich, enough to see a slight smoke trail while I am flying. But I do not use cool power in my non abc engines, cox old os and fox engines I use omega in them. I have tried coolpower in a couple of non abc os engines and it seem to work fine no over heating or flame outs but only as a test.

I do not use any castor oil in the four cycle engines because of the carbon build up on the piston dome , combustion chamber and back side of the exhaust valve plus you do get some varnish on the valve stems and can cause the rings to stick causing a loss of compression which can cause a loss of power and overheating.

I know some people will disagree and thats fine. Makes the world a more interesting place

Biker

bdtsr

My Feedback: (5)

Just read Morgans add. They make it, they should know. If they say use Omega for non-ringed engines, then I will. Just because it has not caused any problems yet does not mean the mfg does not know what they are talking about. Many flyers at the clubs I belong to run their engines properly (not lean), Cool Power in a properly run engine MAY not cause a problem. I am not willing to take that chance. If you are at the LHS and grabbing fuel, why not grab the Omega? Is there some magnetic attraction to Cool Power? Many new flyers do not have the ear or experience for tuning an engine, thus many are run lean. Omega and others with some castor will help protect the engine in the event of a lean run.

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

The reason why I don't grab Omega is one I have never run an engine in a way that would brake it! (17 years)

Two the castor do nothing good to the valve....but if you like degumming them for no reason go ahead

Three Cool Power work, if I was to change for unavailability I would run another all synthetic fuel only, the engine adjustment is what make the engine run!

Easier to clean is a good side effect.

If it did not work I would not be using it, engine are expensive.

Daniel D.

breeza

Way to tell it like it is Dansy. If BDTSR can't adjust a glow engine to run without causing damage. Maybe he should switch to an electric engine.

Biker

Sport_Pilot

Not sure but I think the oil in Coolpower is pretty much straight Ucon. That oil has been around a long time and as synthetics go it's one of the thinnest and least protective as for as corrosion goes. Klotz is little better. Omega has lots and lots of castor oil I have heard it is as high as 40% castor. Might want to add a couple of ounces of castor to Coolpower and still have less gunk on your plane than Omega would leave behind.

Fuel Dinosaur

One point I would like to bring up is that if you notice, many if not most of the folks using Cool Power green in their ABC and ABN engines for any length of time and number of engines are doing so on the rich side on the needle. My experience is that if you are that close to the edge of a lubricant's dark side, or if it is very hot that day, or you get an inadvertant lean run (air leak in tank, tank lines, etc), why use a fuel in the first place that is clearly not recommended for ABC, ABN and AAC engines and contains marginal at best lubrication for those engines???? Even Morgan Fuels recommends Omega in their own ads in almost all the modeling magazines.

The point was made above that not all the fuel makers have exactly the right information. I would point out that the engine manufacturers do not either! MDS recommends Power Master fuel (fine!) or Cool Power (TERRIBLE recommendation) for their fairly powerful 8 series engines. Looks like there is some communication problems between Morgan Fuels and MDS (pun intended).

I would suggest that many modelers do NOT run their engine especially rich and these folks are what the hobby shops love, a person in the market for yet another engine.

I liken this point of view to those who have jumped off their roof 10 times and did not break and arm or leg, so they are lining up to make the 11th jump. :-) On a practical basis, many local hobby shops carry primarily, if not exclusively, green and pink fuel. I stick to my guns and suggest a little castor in these particular engines is fully appropriate if you are sticking with green. Like Margaret Thatcher said, consensus sometimes reflects a lack of leadership. I miss George Aldrich a lot and wish he could get in on this as well.

bdtsr

My Feedback: (5)

Dansy, You sound like you are talking 4-strokes, they are usually ringed engines and many 2-strokes are not. I do agree with the use of all synth in 4-strokes if that is what you like. For non-ringed 2-stroke engines, I will stick with Omega or similar, they deisigned it, they know what it is good for. I am not here to tell people they are wrong, just what the mfg says and my own experience.

Biker, Did I flame you or anyone else? I come here to mainly read and pass on my own experiences if I can. Yes I can tune mine and other peoples engines. Maybe you should read my post a little better, "Many new flyers do not have the ear or experience for tuning an engine, thus many are run lean". What part of that says I do not know how to tune an engine?! Is it a normal practice of yours to pick up a flamethrower and torch somebody because they have different opinions? Yes, I am a little ticked with your comment, you don't know me and yet you are ready to jump all over me! Where is your input for this thread? I don't see any! Sorry to all others who respect others opinions for the length and ranting.

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

Sport_Pilot

Oh! How Wrong. I got into modeling in the mid 70's, and there has been absolutely no improvement in fuel technology. The oils then and today are Ucon, Klotz, and castor oil. Some manufactures claim to have special oil, but as far as I can tell they are colored versions of Ucon. Klotz is the better synthetic. There has been little improvement in 2 stroke engines since the late 70's. The high performance engines of that period are the sports engines of today. Even 4 strokes have had little improvement since YS came out with their supercharged engines in the late 80's. CAD/CAM engines have improved tolerances on the low end but tolerances for the better engines were the same or better in the late 70's.

Fuel Dinosaur

I agree with Sport_Pilot. There have been very few improvements to model fuel formulations over the years and yes, many fuels are based on Ucon and Klotz formulas. There is a fairly simple reason for that. Modelers early on had to determine empirically what worked well and did not work well in their engines, especially those of us invoved in racing (rat race, speed, combat events, etc.) You added so much nitromethane then and I mean a LOT and you might have burned up your engine or fried the top of your piston, but you sure did get great speed. :-) Castor oils like the Bakers AA, Klotz Benol and others are high quality castors and have proven for many many decades that they worked well in many engines, trhough today. Some of the best Ucon oils were so expensive, unless you bought from barrels to tank loads, you could not afford them for routine sport flying, and they were often used for performance engines and contest flying. It is just not the old timers that use castor, some recent formulations also often include some castor, with a great high film strength, and yes, some carbon left and varnish on the piston. It is also the gooey stuff that rides on the back of the power side of the connecting rod and lubricated the connecting rod lower end and fitting to the piston. To think that castor is mostly for the old timers is wrong, it is still perfoming well even in engines turning over 26,000 rpm on the ground. Also, there is nothing wrong with using synthetic oils too and Klotz is a very good synthetic oil, it is readily available and it is reasonably inexpensive and that is why it is still in high use since the mid to late 1950s (around 1958). I run 18% Klotz oil (with 2-4% of that castor, and 15% nitromethane in all my 4-strokes today and it even runs the K & B .48 engines, of which I have 5, very well. I do not use green 17% oil fuel in my engines and why folks would use this routinely for ABC and ABN engines is beyond me, but it is their choice, despite the recommendations of the suppliers of that fuel. When you read all this stuff about rust inhibitors, anti-foaming agents and the like, they are already IN THE OIL used in the fuel in the vast majority of cases. One of the things I have tried to do is DEmystify fuels for modelers. In the case of model fuels, there really is very little new under the sun and Sport_Pilot was right on the mark. The real hooker is knowing what fuel formulations are best for your engines and the way you fly. There seems to be a LOT more misinformation out there and far more heat than light. For some reason, some modelers like to frame their preferences as castor vs synthetics and I would maintain that both have their place in modeling and one should not really always say either or. If you are making up 60% nitro in boat fuel, sure you will likley use all synthetic. If you are flying 4-strokes, then you might well use all synthetic or low castor/mostly synthetic fuels, but if you are running your Cox .049, I would hope you are using around 20% castor and not all synthetic. :-) I would extend Sport_Pilot's observations to say that as far as the basic ingredients and formulations, there have been few changes in model fuels since the 1950s. I would suggest that it is due to the fact that these oils, nitro and methanol work for these engines and despite the close tolerances of the more modern engines, their basic fuel requirements are met by these same chemicals today.

The old fuel mixing dinosaur

Fuelman

My Feedback: (6)

Very well said Fuel Dinosaur.

Be rest asured that there is a couple companies that use synthetic oils superior to those you mention above. Slowly but surely, fuels of better lubrication technology are becoming more readily available. It only takes time.
Castor will always have a place, in many model engines.

Fuelman

grazzhopper

Fuelman And Fuel Dinosaur:
Thank you for your opines and edification in numerous threads. Will you please comment on my fuel mix, and if you would add or change anything? New to R/C and gleaned this from posts on here and elsewhere. Sport use and engine longevity are my needs. What are some of the better modern lubes that were referred to earlier? Jet Oils?

2 strokes- .5 gal nitro, 4 gal methane, 1 gal Motul Micro, 1 qt Bakers AA castrol, 1 qt acetone = 6 gal 8%nitro 21%oil (80/20)

4 strokes- 1 gal nitro, 4 gal meth, 1 gal Micro, 1 pt castrol, 1 qt acetone = 6.375 gal 16%nitro 18%oil (89/11)

Thanks in advance, and Cheers

Dave Carr

Ramcharger!!! You have one hell of a 46 fx if it turns 13,000 with an 11x6, does it have a pipe?? Please let me know!!! Mine all turn 11,600 to 11,750 at the most with cool power 15% Thanks Dave

ramcharger

My OS 46FX has a baffleless OS muffler. It reaches 12,800 to 13,000 rpm with a 11x6 MAS prop. It will not reach 13,000 rpm with a 11x6 APC prop but gets close. I have swithed to buying all 15% nitro Cool Power because my OS 91 Surpass likes 15% and not 10% and our ST 40/Sig 4*40 races. I prefer to buy just one fuel. I flew my Dazzler/OS 46FX last Thurs (11/7) with 15% for the first time and it was really cranking. I didn't bother to tach it during any of the 6 flights but I would say it was doing 13,000 with the 11x6 APC. My OS 46FX is at least 5 yrs old, it has run all 300 to 400 or more flights on CP, and it is the benchmark for determining performance of my other engines. I only have one OS 46FX however I just started flying a new OS 46SF in a Dazzler this summer. It also has a baffleless OS muffler and with 10% CP and a 11x5 wood Zinger prop it was only doing 11,800 rpm at first but is now up to 12,300. I haven't tried 15% CP in it yet. By the way I tried a GMS 47 (Tower 46) muffler on my OS 46FX this fall and got no increase in rpm over the baffleless OS muffler. I may try the GMS muffler on my OS 46SF next summer.

PilotFrog

Anyone using Coolpower in an ABC or ABN engine is playing Russian Roulette with their engine. It only takes a lean run and any number of malfunctions in the fuel system can result in one. Heck, I have even crisped ringed engines with this stuff....used to be the standard club fuel. Listen to the Dinasour and Fuelman along with this old fart as we have been doing it a long time. This stuff has a place in 4 strokes but I don't run them.
Omega might have a little too much castor but this is a great fuel especially for the beginner.....too much is better than not enough. I like the 80/20 mix of Wildcat which gives around 4% castor....to me this is ideal not too much varnish build up but enough for protection.
PilotFrog