hpi apollo

Klotz BeNOL castor oil
$6.79 for 16 ounces, i use this

Phil Heller

My Feedback: (9)

campgems -

You could order from Sig - they sell Bakers AA, also Fox sells a premixed fuel with 20% castor and 10% nitro, or check to see if there is a speed shop (Cars) in your area, they usually sell Castor oil, Nitro, and Methanol, then you could mix your own at about 1/2 the price of premix.

Phil

Campgems

I've got a hobby shop near me that sells some pre-mix, and if I could just doctor it up a bit, I don't think I could top the price, I bought a gal last week for $12.95. I'm not into buying drums of components, which I'm guessing you would have to do to beat the $12.95 a gal price.

I looked at going the internet/mail order route, but you need to buy a case, four gal or 12 quarts at at time. Along with the hazardious materials sur-charge on shipping, the best price I could find was around $20 a gal. As long as I can get near what I want cheep in small quanitys and then doctor it to suit, that is the way I would like to go.

I'm guessing there must be a speed shop around here. We are within a couple miles of the only beach in the state that you can drive on and you should see some of the machines that go out there and on the dunes. That along with the local college crowd and there must be a market for a speed shop. I'll have to take a look Monday.

Thanks for the input. I've still got a lot to learn and re-learn.

Don

Phil Heller

My Feedback: (9)

Most speed shops will sell by the gallon . You have to bring your own container. Is there a club or group of other RC'ers in your area? There must be if you have a place to fly. Check with them.

Good Luck, Phil

loughbd

Have you all read the latest issue of RCR?? WE made the paper, men. I guess G. Banks dumped on Brian Winch and he unloaded on us.

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

Campgems....

....get the castor cheaper at the motorcycle shop. If he doesn't have it, he
can get it from the "oil man".

FBD.

MassiveMods

The gumming effect of casotr inside your engine frees up with heat , it acts as an excellent protector. And unless you are using a real high tech synthetic you cant go past castor. Synthetics that are avalable in RC are very average oils compared to outside Synthetics, mind you finding a suitable one is real hard and real expensive..

Sport_Pilot

You can buy castor oil from Fox as well. Morgans will also sell you castor oil. I think about $18 to $20, but give them a phone call, you won't find it on the web sites.

AERORICH73

Hi fellows: I just found this thread while reading a discussion concerning castor oil in glow fuel.
Since I am from the U-Control era having moved into RC some years ago, castor oil fuel is all
that I use then. When getting into RC, my impression of the oil debate was what oil to use in
4 stroke engines. It became my thought that since I had no reason to purchase any 4 stroke
engines, there was no reason to change from Sig 20% all castor fuels. When purchasing an
ASP .75 engine in 1998, there was a slip of paper in the engine manual that suggested adding
3 ounces of castor oil to a gallon of my fuel to extend the life of the engine. Well, the 5% nitro all castor fuel I was using really well oiled this .75 during the break-in run, and all of my other
2 c engines. Now as to the clean up of the plane, I believe we all love to caress our autos when
washing and polishing them, well, isn't it great to caress a model that has safely flown all day
for you? Well, as the weather turned cold, the high oil content and low nitro began to make
my engines to sage somewhat; so, went to 10% nitro 20% castor plus only one more added
ounce of Sig Castor oil. Now I have great flights with a nice smoke trail from the muffler, and
know if some how the engine should run lean it will not be destroyed by the time the plane lands. Everyone has to make their own choice as to the type and oil content they are willing to fly with. In my case, I chose to think my engines are of the old Fox .35 variety, and enjoy
caressing the plane for cleaning when the flying is done. If I ever become the owner of
a 4 stroke, I will follow the mfg's recommendations on fuel and oil type to use.

May you all have great flying with no engine problems.

Rich S.

loughbd

Adding three ounces of oil to a gallon increases the total percentage by a bit over 2%. 1 ounce increases it less than 1%. Both of these are negligible amounts. I fly in the winter and it gets cold up here. I use nothing but 20% castor fuel. Temperature makes no difference in the consistency of the fuel. I have put fuel in the freezer at zero degree overnight and it is still nice and "watery" with no thickening.

The amount of oil that gets on a plane after a ten minute flight isn't really all that much. After a days flying all it takes to clean it off is a couple of paper towels and a few squirts of 409. Think about this 20% of 8 ounces is 1.2 ounces and of that amount, very little ends up on the airplane.

Now I will say this. In the winter when it's cold, the oil that does end up on the plane is thicker and a bit more difficult to clean off but not enough to traumatize anyone.

RaceCity

Now that's what I'm talking about!!!!

Nice post Aero...

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

I am going to post this again. Some of you Guys must have some castor
bean oil oil around, and perhaps some other auto oils, maybe some synthetics.

Give this a try: ....A Simple Oil Test.


Do you think your brand of oil is good? Try this test...take an old cookie sheet,
or a piece of tin sheet...put a few drops of castor bean oil on it ( about the size
of a quarter ), then put your favorite oil next to it...about an inch away. Now
take a flame of some sort ( a cig lighter will work ) and put the flame under
the sheet between the samples. The bean oil will run TO THE HEAT ! Your oil
will probably run away from the heat.( Mineral and synthetic oils usually do ).
That's why fuel manufactures use Castor bean oil as the main lubricant, and
fillers such as Klotz as a base.

FBD.

loughbd

I know my oil is good. It's Bakers AA and it is the best.

wcmorrison

My Feedback: (2)

[quote]ORIGINAL: sigrun


BW addressed my letter to Gordon Banks RE "He is doing a disservice to your readers." I don't suppose Gordon has time between pizzas, flying, writing his articles for his magazine to read RCUniverse. If he did he would get an ear full. I suspected BW and now I know what he really is, a prepaid journalist.

Botton line, some Castor is good, a lot is messy; none is dangerous and can lead to premature wear in alcohol engines.

I just knew beans were good for you. Just do not eat any fresh or dried Castor beans, deadly poisonous -- Ricin. The oil from pressings is okay. Used medicianally on a lot of us for years. Youngsters do not have to suffer as we did. Perhaps BW has been using his Castor for iternal problems rather than in his engines?

Cheers,

Chip

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

Where are all you "oil tester guys" ?

downunder

They're out racing their cars and buying a new engine every weekend

loughbd

One of us is on his way to California to fly in the Bay Area for a couple weeks. Mostly at the Santa Clara County field. Maybe will make it to LA and San Diego.

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

Brian....I know you have different oils laying around....

Try the castor oil heat test, and report back....OK ?

FBD.

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

Anyone try that heat test with Byron's Fuel? I've heard it has a pretty low oil content (but high quality oil)....

loughbd

Byron's fuel does have a very low oil content.

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

Nobody has any castor oil around ? [X(]

downunder

I've got plenty of castor but nothing to compare it with

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

Don't you have some regular motor oil for the car ? The whole point is, the
castor runs to the heat, the other oils run away from the heat. When I first
did this test back in the seventies I was in the motorcycle shop, and I had
several different type of oil to play with.

You always hear...."the castor oil will save the engine during a lean run".
This is because the castor runs to the hots spots and lubricates where it is
needed most....that's the really neat thing. The other oils run away from
the hot spot....and you have the scuffing, wear, and eventual failure.

This is why most racing engines run straight castor.

FBD.

british bloke

hi surely its the damp/water in the air that causes the corrosion, as far as i know any oil coated surface stops corrosion- never seen a rusty sump in a car engine, if this guys engines are going rusty they must be shelved for a hell of long time so he cant be much of a flyer can he?
if anybody is going to worry about an engine going rusty cos they not going to use it then they might as well sell it, engines are fairly priced, just not worth worrying about, sounds bit of a tight-ass to me, just my opinion

D Bronk

I`ve only read this 1 page, but I hope the Fellow that started a thread this morning ,about his LHS telling him that Castor oil was a thing of the past, and an all synthetic oil in the Glow fuel,is the way to go, reads through this Thread.He`s from Japan, I think..He`s running a High RPM, Norvel 0.061" .I`ve gotten over 21,000 Rpm [:@]out of mine, and she`s gaing RPMs still.[>:].A total of 10 ounces of fuel since new.. Here`s a chart I made up, of some testing I did,on the same type engine,a BigMIG Sport R/C 0.061".2 ounces to break it in, and the rest of the runtime, was at W.O.T. and is detailed, and recorded, on this chart..Check it out Guys ,you know, She`s got to be Hot, at these speeds ,and bolted down to a table.I also let the engine run(to get Temp.up) for a short while, before taking my readings.Unfortunately, I didn`t have a means, to measure The TEMP.[] But I did use different types of fuel and quantitys & percentages of oil.