Twanger

I like to switch back and forth from syn/cas to straight synthetic. I'll run syn/cas until I can feel the prop shudder as I SLOWLY turn it through a compression stroke by hand. This seems to happen more when the humidity is high. The first sign is when you can't seem to get the needle set right. You think it's lean, so you richen it. You search for the sweet spot. It's not there. You start having deadstick problems. GRAB THE GREEN! A couple of tanks, and she's tearin' up the sky. Slow compression stroke test, shudder greatly diminished or gone. Half a gallon or so later, go back to the syn/cas. Everybody's happy! I might add that I run .40 size two stroke engines exclusively. YMMV

Bobhend

My Feedback: (1)

Does anyone know what is in COOLPOWER SUPER T ? The Hobby shop recommended it for breaking in my new Supertigre 45 ABC (so far so good) but neither the jug nor the Morgan Fuel website listed the nitro or oil content. Morgan fuels does not even list it at all. The list an OMEGA Super T but do not give percentages for it either.

KC36330

do NOT use Super-T for smaller engines, it has allot less oil (12% if memory serves me), the big Tigre's don't run well on the higher oil content fuels. the nitro is 10%

kc

EDIT: FWIW the Super-T fuel uses a High Viscosity oil

Bobhend

My Feedback: (1)

KC:
Thanks for the heads up, you probably saved my engine. It has been 45 - 50 F here in Fairport NY. I confirmed what you said with Morgan Fuels today and I asked that they list the Coolpower Super T percentages on their website and to add a warning that it is for the large ringed engines only. Everyone note that even the G-2300 requires "18 to 20% oil". Only the manual for the ST G3250 , G4500 and 60cc twin says 10-12% oil is OK. These are lower RPM long stroke ringed engines.

I found Morgan Fuel's phone number on the MSDS sheet ! I am considering buying some castor oil to add to my gallon. Adding 8 oz to 123 ounces would add 6 % lubricant. I dunno, maybe I should sell it rather than go into uncharted waters.

I feel the manufacturers really should list the percentages on their jugs, particularly in this case where there is a risk.

thanks again / BH

Bobhend

My Feedback: (1)

It is still snowing here so I have not run any engines. I bought a quart of Klotz supertechniplate to bring the oil content of my jug of Coolpower Super T up to 18 % oil. The Klotz is 30 % castor and I plan to add about 8 oz to this gallon or probably 4 oz in a half gallon to start with.

tomcat9

I originally used Cool Power when I began my model airplane hobby. After I had used about 5 gallons of Cool Power, the top of the piston on my 46 FX began to turn black. Concerned, I experimented briefly with Byron and then with Wildcat, which I stuck with. Now, two blown 50 SX engines later, I am going to sell or perhaps just give away the remaining three gallons of Wildcat fuel (Premium Xtra-10% Nitro, 18% lube) I still have, and I shall switch back to Cool Power.

Additionally, I recently replaced the bearings on my 61 FX, and it wasn't the bearings that were the source of the rust and roughness but rather it was the crankshaft. The crankshaft was so rusty it shed rust particulates which fouled and wore out the rear bearing. One thing I remember about Cool Power when I was using it long ago is that I never saw any rust inside my 46 FX engine.

XJet

The combustion byproducts of glow-fuel (especially where nitromethane is involved) tend to be corrosive and the oil used can only do so much to mitigate the corrosive effects.

Coolpower has a bad reputation for corrosion and I've seen instances where some fliers who've been using other fuels without any problems for years had to replace badly rusted bearings within weeks of switching to CoolPower.

On the other hand, I've heard reports from people who've been using CoolPower for years and never had any troubles.

Chances are that there are many more factors other than the oil involved. Temperature range, storage methods and the quality of the other fuel ingredients are all major factors in whether engines will rust.

I know we had a bad batch of nitromethane here about a year ago. It smelt acidic and was a straw-color (instead of clear).

The only engine I tried it in rapidly developed rusty bearings so I threw it out.

It strikes me that some fuel-makers *may* not be quite so fussy when it comes to their nitro sources and would just use whatever was delivered. It's one thing throwing out a 1-gal container of nitro because it's bad it's another to throw out hundreds of gallons if you get a bad shipment.

The other thing is that not all nitromethane is made to the same standards.

The lowest (aka: cheapest) grade can be very acidic and cause very bad corrosion problems if used in fuel. I wonder if some agents aren't substituting this low-grade for the hi-grade that should be used especially since a great deal of nitro now comes out of China. If they're willing to put melamine in their milk-powder I can't see why relabeling highly acidic nitromethane as "top quality" might not happen.

The synthetic oil used in CoolPower fuel is not the best, which is why they have to use 17%-18% of it. Higher quality oils can be used in lower percentages with numerous advantages.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

TC, my experience has been the opposite of yours using WildCat since 1992 in all fourstrokes. I attrribute the use of WildCat to my never having had a bearing failure in any fourstroke. I can't vouch for its use in two strokes since all I use is Fox 5% with 20% castor.

Jim Thomerson

I ran about 10 gallons of cruelpower through a K&B 4011. No damage to the engine, but my airplane was turning green and my flying buddies were making fun of me. Since then I've been running Sig Champion 10% nitro, 20 % oil, 50/50 castor/synthetic, in everything (glow two strokes of various kinds). I'm even having very good results in old iron piston engines which the experts will tell you need 28% straight castor.

Jezmo

I know there are a lot of different situations and others may find different results but I ran it exclusively for over 10 yrs. without a single problem. No rusty bearings, no problems of any kind.

Now comes the fine print. I haven't ever had a fuel related engine problem so I consider most of the big commercially manufactured fuels to be of good quality. Your mileage may vary.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

All I ever heard for many years and long before R/C Universe was thought of is the term Cruel Power so I've never used it.

But over the years I've sure used many cases of Omega.

I also used 17 cases of Rich's Brew and 8 cases of Wildcat.

I like the combination oil package with a little bit of Castor in with the synthetic.

Jezmo

Yes sir my friend, I do prefer a little caster in the blend these days and my preferred fuels are (in no particular order) Byron's, Rich's Brew, and Omega (all have some Castor). I will run any of these any time and there are others I will use that I didn't name as well.


Have a safe and very Merry Christmas everyone and a Happy New Year too!

rs670

My Feedback: (1)

After selling my helicopter, I'm left with a case of Cool Power 20% nitro fuel (Heli). Will it hurt anything if I mix it with my Wildcat Premium 5 & 10% fuel and use it in 2 stroke airplanes?

Mix ratio of 50/50 or 75/25 etc........ Anyone have any words of wisdom. I tried to sell it for way less than I paid for it but no luck. Hate to throw it away or just let it sit around.

Thanks

XJet

I'd be a little careful about mixing fuels like that I've seen some very odd reactions between different oil types (PAG and Esters don't always seem to play well together). On one occasion, the mix turned black and engines would not run reliably on it.

I'd just add 5% castor to it and use it as-is, or mix with some Omega (that uses the same oil as Coolpower but also includes some castor).

rs670

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the quick reply.... I won't mix the fuels together.

One more question though..... How might the engine run if I used the Cool Power 20% Heli fuel straight?
Up to this point, I've been running Wildcat 10% Premium in my OS 2 stroke engines (55AX up to and including the BGX-1)

Thanks again for the reply.

XJet

You could use the CoolPower 20% in most 2-stroke engines but I really would recommend the addition of some castor, especially if those engines are ABC or ABN. The castor will provide some valuable extra protection from both a wear and corrosion perspective.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Some body I know ??? mixed two different brands of fuel together and the resultant mixture turned to cloudy gel. This was maybe 10 years ago

GhostRider32

I agree with Xjet here. Add a few ounces of castor to the Coolpower and fly it. Many times you can get by being a little on the lean side wit castor but with straight synthetic, it doesn't take long to damage an engine on a lean run. Most synthetics will burn much sooner than castor leaving very little engine protection.

rs670

My Feedback: (1)

OK... Thanks for all the replies. I'll add castor oil to the 20% Cool Power Heli fuel. Now, could someone tell me exactly how much castor oil to add to a gallon and where do I get it?

Thanks everyone!

Rick

GhostRider32

4 to 6 ounces per gallon would be fine.

http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmar...FV4.html?E+Sig

The best deal is to buy the gallon. I won't go bad for years (if ever) if stored properly. That way if you buy all synthetic, you'll always have some castor to put in it.

Edit: Go to the link, then field equipment, fuel ingredients, then fuel-oil.

KC36330

i run Coolpower 30% heli in everything but my turbines, during the Nitro shortage had to use the 20% heli, it'll work fine, and it doesn't need the addition of castor.

rs670

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks KC36330. Your comments kind of go along with what I've read on Cool Power specs. I'm leaning toward running it straight or adding a little castor oil. I definately won't mix it with other fuels.

rica1

My Feedback: (32)

I have been mixing 15% Coolpower with 10% Omega and mixing it 50/50 for about 2years and have not had any problems. I have OS 91FX's that are ringed and one 61. I recall having to spend some time adjusting the needles though. One of the guys at the field stated he uses only Coolpower in his two strokes and has had good luck for years.
I remember the carbon build up on the of ABN, ABC pistons of engines I've had and wanted to find a fuel that would keep the carbon buildup down. I have not seen any appreciable carbon build up with these engines but these are ringed and probably not fair to compare. Seems to be working for me but time will tell. I always back off about 300 from peak rpm.

JPMacG

My Feedback: (2)

Coolpower's extravagant advertising claims set off all my scam alert detectors. So I don't use it, just because.

Luna_Rendezvous

Just finished my second gallon of Cool power blue synthetic oil, been running it in .049s to .45 two stokes. In my ABC car engines 100% CP-Blue @ 12-16% and never had ANY issues! Obviously with ferrous pistons and liner engines, a castor blend was also used. One point that needs to made, if you’re using a 100% synth blend, the use of after-run oil is very much recommended, no matter what brand of synth you use.