SMC

Ok Gentz... Newbie here in Minneapolis MN

Got a WCM 1:4 Scale Grand National two days ago.

Sadly, it was in a shop which caught fire.... It wasn't in contact with flames, but the heat was enough to melt the body, foam, tires, rims, plastic heims... etc
Then, the guy let it sit outside since early summer.... Booooo.
I move fast on projects, so first pic is crappy at night in the dark, so you really can't see much. I had already peeled most of the body off the tubing and stuff...

Engine is intact, as is the engine wiring... good compression, good spark. Haven't tried to fuel it yet but I will this weekend.

So far she is stripped. Down to a bare frame.

She is soaking with Aircraft Paint Stripper now, since I don't have immediate sandblast access and I'm impatient.

Parts I have for re-assembly:

USEDPlastic 2 Piece 4 Bolt Wheels (Which I'll need to drill for my 6 bolt hubs) -nice wheels like new,with OK foam and bands
NEWaluminum drive 'sprocket', two new plastic rear 'sprockets'
USEDAluminum shocks, 3 full sets of springs so I have options. No leaks. Good Hardware. Smooth
NEW Clutch arms/pads/spring
NEWRecoil (The one on the engine works, but handle is pretty janky lookin... warped)
10-15 NEWMetal Heims, and 8-10 NEW Plastic Heims
NEWCarb and filter housing
USEDBody, Sponsored by rural suburb bar
Misc other stuff

So, short of a Radio, I have everything I need to get her rockin like new.

I think the motor is gonna be ok... no signs of anything leading me to think it won't be ok. Seems like a Zenoah 230RC??? Is that right?230RC??
Stock motor as far as I know. Do guys build em and not put aftermarket exhaust and intake on em?Wouldn't make sense to me... all that is stock, so I assume the engine is too. (Not a redcap)

So......

It was laid out for oval... so rear suspension was staggered. I have an extra chunk of axle stock long enough for the proper positioning should I need to move anything out more on the drive side.
My only concerne here is that the dogbone may not be wide enough when I move the trailing arms to their new positions (Outside the frame).... however, with the axle stock, I can space the inner cup (That accepts dogbone)
Might be just fine. We'll see.

Hopefully I'll be painting tomorrow night.
I'll finish stripping and prepping the frame tonight... and there's a couple dents to fix... one slightly squished tube I'll need to braze and sand smooth (Fill)

Chevy Orange for the frame. All suspension and steering just lightly buffed and polished... close to stock aluminum billet, with a lil shine

Anything else will be black or standard hardware color (Zink/nickel/black)

Should look ok.

Anyone in Minneapolis area with a Radio set?Other parts?

Pics:

bentley marshall

welcom to the forum allso check out http://www.quarterscalelegends.com/bb/ and www.quarterscalelegends.com for heeps of 1/4 scale info

SMC

Hey Hey, Made some Progress last night and this morning.

Finished stripping and prepping frame. Straigtened out a couple dents. Slide hammers rock

1st Coat was a rust inhibitor/base. We used to shoot hotrod/classic frames with it before prime/seal/paint. Good stuff.

2nd coat was a slightly texturized bed liner (Wanted something durable for bottoming out). Stuff is solid, not flexible, slight texture (Sand type) and Paintable.

3rd, 4th, 5th Thin Coats of Chevy Orange Engine Enamel/Ceramic. Figured it'd be good to use something fuel/oil resistant.

Frame looks great!

This evening I'll finish stripping down the suspension/steering components, clean, wet sand, buff, polish.
Also, strip shrouding off engine. Pull carb (Have a brand new replacement) - Prep shroud and pull, and paint those.
If there's time, I'll hit the hardware store and get all the new bolts and other hardware needed.

Should be re-assembling Saturday or Sunday. Might even have her fired up Sunday Evening, but I'm not holding my breath.
I don't want to strip her down again so I'm trying to get all the pretty work done before re-assembly.

She's lookin sharp. I'm really hopin the engine is ok. Sounds like it. Great compression and spark (Though I haven't compression tested or leak-downed... just pull-listen)
Seems solid. This little turds are pretty forgiving in my experience with other projects, though, I don't know the history of this particular engine, so we'll see.

Only part I don't have is a new Brake Disk... The one that's on it is 'ok'... so I should be good to get her up and start test running/dialing... but I'll need a replacement I'm sure.Visible wear and small groove.

How fast are these things when they're stock? (I know the gearing makes a difference, and I have two sets of drive gears (Haven't checked for tooth count yet), but looking for a general idea.
Also, can anyone verify the frame?Ithink it's aWCM... not sure of their history of models... I'm told it's a K or something?I see their 2010 is a K1E.... not sure what the older models were.

Also, you can see where the frame tube has been crimped due to torquing the bolts, and no doubt from impacts and strain.
I pulled the rails out until the inside edge was straight, so she should line up right.
The diameter of the bolt holes are big enough that I can get some small aluminum tubing I have in there around the bolt,
so I think I'll cut it to length and slide that in with washers inside and out to help prevent further distortion of the tube...
Maybe even some rubber washers as well to dampen just a tiny bit...
Like: MTLWasher, RBRWasher, MTLWasher on each side if it doesn't stack up so thick on the inside that it throws me way off (I think there's some adjustment with the gear?)

SMC

Servo Question:

Do I need high torque servos for the steering?

This uses a pair of standard size servos (As upposed to the oversized)....
Wondering if they need to be high torque?

The ones that were in there were Futaba S9304 's - For all 3 (Two for Steering, One for Throttle/Brake)
(Need replacement since the wires melted)

I assume I'll need a high torque at least for serving the brake...... just not sure about steering being that it uses two.

Mudgy

sleeving inside the tubes is a good idea to stop it from crushing, you just need to be sure nothing rattles, as metal on metal (high frequency) buzzing can make radios glitch....well AM ones do I remember; I am guessing this can bugger up signals on all radios

Looks good!

SMC

Made some progress

Ran a tank of gas through her so far.



Now to tweak alignment and such through the week, get the bumbers made, and off to the track this weekend.