royw

Howdy!

Just purchased an XB-E and will need to be purchasing some more LiPos. I'll probably start with Venom 4000mAh 3S (what I currently have been using in my slash 4x4s), but am willing to switch for better price/performance.

Also am curious what others are using for fluids in 1/5 scale (preferred shock and diff oil weights).

Finally it would be nice to share any recommended mods as we discover them.

This weekend should be a blast as I finally get to drive my XB-E...

Have fun,
Roy

Sherv

My Feedback: (1)

Dont waste money on venom. Go buy turnigy or any other brand at www.hobbyking.com

csp1971

Check hobbypartz.com out as well. I've ordered from both hobbyking(they have a usa warehouse now, big plus) and hobbypartz. Both good places for lipos.

royw

I tried the HobbyKing. Found Turnigy nano-tech 5000mah 3S 25~50C Lipo Pack, went to order and they wanted $65 for shipping 6 of them. No thank you, back to shopping...

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

Find instock batteries in the US Warehouse (check items with US flag) and shipping is usually free or very cheap. You don't need nano-techs.

nitrosportsandrunner

you can get 6 of the turnigy 3s 30c 5000mah packs with .01 shipping through the USA warehouse.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=15021
of for just $25 more you can get 2-3 day shipping.

royw

Ordered the turnigys, thank you for the pointer.

Well I unboxed the XB-E tonight. The box had a little damage but couldn't find any damage to the model, so the packaging worked. Here's my photo gallery from this evening.

The "manual" that was included is basically just exploded parts diagrams and an illustrated parts catalog. Really nothing that could be called "instructions".

So put on the wheels (an exploded view did help in determining that the washer goes outboard.

Spent a while trying to figure out what are the extra parts included. Here's a photo. Any ideas?



The next issue is a quality control problem. There's a mis-drilled hole in the body:



Body washers are NOT included.

The only other potential problem is a pretty sharp bend in one of the motor wires. Hopefully it will not be an issue.

Next up was replacing the radio with an Airtronics MT-4. The connector for the steering servo has a tab on the side that I had to remove and I doubt that the receiver box is very waterproof. The wires for the ESC and steering servo were not routed thru the access port so I re-routed them and added some form to the access port. Also the receiver was not secured in the box so used some foam mounting squares to adhere the new receiver to the box. Final observation is the receiver box just seems extra cheap. I'll probably replace it with a water resistant box.

I did mount the thermalcouple to the motor using a tie wrap. I did not hook up the rpm sensor, just haven't seen a good place to mount it.

The included batteries are packaged in a pretty cool looking box.

The battery trays are 138mm x 47mm, open top that uses velcro tie down straps.

Final comment is on the battery connectors. I think they are 4mm bullet connectors but will find out for sure when I can find another pair at the store. It would have been really nice of Redcat to include one extra pair so we can hook the batteries up to our quick chargers.

So hopefully I can find some battery connector Saturday and get the batteries charged, then finish setting up the MT-4 and, fingers crossed, run it this Sunday.

Obeast44

Those are extra supports for if you ever decide to convert it to a truck.

fgbasher

My Feedback: (10)

I converted all my batteries and the buggy to deans plugs. I could not find the plugs on hobbykings site. Just seemed easier and I had a few charging squids so they already have the deans plug on it.

I bought the 6 battery pack deal too and I also have the hitec x4 charger so you can charge 4 batts at once. Now I have 8 batts total so I should have very littel down time due to the batteries.

I also am changing out the motor to this one:
Castle 1717-1580KV. They are on clearance for $70 on castles site. Should improve speed a bit.
[link=http://www.castlecreations.com/promos/motor_clearance/motor_clearance.html]Link to Castle motor[/link]

royw

Changed the plugs to dean plugs. Is it normal to get a spark when plugging in the second battery?

Proceeded with radio check out. Throttle works. Brakes work. No reverse. This is default config.

Steering is messed up. Basically works except it will get in a mode where it is making a loud chattering and the servo does not respond until you command hard right. Then it's responding again for a few seconds then repeats the chattering mode.

Disconnected the steering linkage same thing. Remove server and it was hot to touch on the motor side. Did not feel any warmth from the ESC. Tested out of the vehicle same thing. Opened the servo, first note, the o-ring on the bottom of the servo was not properly seated. Removed the gear cover, could not find any gear binding. Tested and the same problem repeated and after 30 seconds the side of the servo next to the motor was hot again.

Looks like time for a new servo. Any recommendations?

TIA,
Roy

fgbasher

My Feedback: (10)

Get an Hitec 805MG of 805BB, it is basically the same size.

Maj_Overdrive

My Feedback: (11)

Any updates? Impresions? BTW, yes it is normal to see a spark when connecting the batteries. The capacitors in the esc get charged when you connect the battery and they draw quite a bit for a split second. The 1717 is an awesome motor, I'm curious to see how it compares to the stocker.

royw

I picked up a Hitech HS-5805MG digital servo at a LHS yesterday ($80).  Will install it and hopefully see how the buggy runs this weekend when I get home.

One question as the servo directions are a little confusing.  They say to use a Y connector between the steering servo and B.E.C. receiver because steering servo can use 800mA unloaded.  But everything I've found on using an ESC show using power from throttle channel and not connecting any other battery.  The original wiring on the XB-E is without the Y connector.  I've tried to find a power rating spec on the Airtronics 92010 (RX-461) receiver without luck.  Any advice?

royw

Well, lesson learned, look at servo bay before getting replacement servo.  Here's the bay and original non-functioning servo:





Notice the curved sides.  My new servo has a rectangular cross section.  So need to make new ESC tray posts.  Off to the store to get some stock...

But at least the new servo does work when connected to the receiver.

BTW, received the six Turnigy 5.0 LIPOs.  The back of one is puffed out and feels spongy.  From what I understand that indicates it is bad and should be returned. 

Obeast44

A dremel is your friend in this situation.

It doesnt take much to make it fit.

Cut the top servo protruding tabs off, and sand the bottom of the servo mount arches off as well. Mount the 5755 in, mark the new upper holes and redrill them. It takes all of 5 minutes to do

Here is a pic to help demonstrate. The black circles are the old tabs that have been cut off. The white circles are "about" where the new holes for the 5755 will need to be drilled. The Red squares are the area that needs some dremel sanding.

Maj_Overdrive

My Feedback: (11)

As for your question about the Y-harness. Most models large enough to require that servo are gas and use a Rx battery. The reason for the y-harness is to power the servo directly off the battery and not through the Rx. This is because the Rx may not be ablt to supply or handle the current required. Personally I don't think it will be an issue for you, but if you don't want to power the servo off the Rx IO'll give you some options.

Powering the servo off the ESC. The BEC of the ESC can handle the servo without issue. Take a Y-harness and install it between the ESC and Rx. Here's where it can get tricky. One side of the y, is going to the esc, the other to the RX, and the 3rd to the servo. On the 3rd servo side, use a X-acto knife or small screwdriver to life the tab holding the signal wire in the connector. Signal wire is the white/yellow/orange wire, just pull it out of the connector and tape it off. Now you can connect the servo and have power to the servo while keeping the ESC signal from the servo, you just have to get the signal wire of the servo to the RX. The simplest way is to just take the signal wire out of the connector and run it over to the Rx, you can use a spare servo connector to make sure it stays in the Rx. Or use another y-harness so you don't have to separate the signal wire from the power wires.

Your other option is an Rx pack or an external BEC. Again a series of Y-harnesses, and swapping wires around in the connevtors will be required. I have seen wiring kits on sites like DDM that are premade to power the servo off of a source other than the Rx. But with some patience, and a y-harness or 2 you can make one yourself.

royw

Howdy!

It runs!



More on that later as Icatch up on the rest of the story.

I ended up moving the forward ESC leg / left servo bracket, forward to make room for the bigger servo. Had to drill 2 countersunk holes in the ESC tray and 2 more in the chassis plate. Removed all four posts, and drilled two new servo mount holes. I used the rubber grommets that came with the servo for shock mounting but had to use some brass tubing with washers for the stand off. Note, the original server was not shock mounted.





I did make the H-harnass as described by Maj_Overdrive for powering the servo. Thank you!

So last Sunday evening everything was together, quick step outside. Five minutes of running. Steering servo needed to be reversed and the range adjusted. Still have an issue where when the servo is centered, can only mount the arm at either +- about 15 degrees due how the cogs line up on the servo arm. For now I centered it from the transmitter but it's taking full left trim. Need to read the transmitter manual again...

I haven't yet calibrated the throttle via the ESC setup so just have forward throttle.

Monday afternoon took it out for more of a test, one charge worth. Ran on grass, did a couple of jumps, ran on tar and gravel road. First comment is sweet! Tracks straight, extremely stable, but with minimal effort can break the back end lose. It definitely doesn't want to roll. Two of the small jumps (2 foot long plywood ramp with a rise of 8 inches) had bad landings so it survived a couple of cartwheels. Overall much easier to drive than my slash 4x4s.

So this week bought a 13.8V 15A power supply for the Hitec X4 charger. Then last night wired up two of the new Turnigy 5.0 LiPOs with deans plugs.

This evening it was too pretty to wire up another pair so went to City Park. Nice flat field with some pools of leaves and a sand volley ball court. Again extremely pleased with how easy it is to control. Learned the fast way to do a u-turn with it is full throttle to neutral, hard turn, release, full throttle. The sand was like perfectly scaled dunes, really gave the suspension a work out. But always under control.

I did roll it once when trying to do a 90 skid turn onto the ridge around the volley ball court and didn't get enough bite so it slid sideways into the sand and rolled one and a half times.

Too soon it was out of charge. Basically you get about 30 seconds of half throttle, then another 30 of quarter, then it's out.

BTW max motor temp reported from the receiver was 138F. Before running it reported 70F which was about the ambient. I need to check with my IR thermometer.

Also it felt like the charge lasted about 20 minutes of mostly full throttle running but I didn't time it. Another todo item...

Discovered the next problem, the Turnigy 5.0 batteries are just a hair too big to fit in the battery tray. I discovered I could wedge them in on their sides.



About 5 minutes into the second charge I discovered some real extreme bumps in the sand and made a couple of passes with a 6 inch airborne exit from the volleyball court. Then noticed that the XB-E was no longer tracking straight so took an inspection break where I discovered that the front right dogbone axle had disengaged:



The sun was setting anyway so called it a day.

Maj_Overdrive

My Feedback: (11)

Glad you were able to decipher my instructions through the spelling errors. I'd think the Rx could handle the servo being powered off of it, other large scale guys do it all the time with heavier rigs. But it should be a little quicker and stronger getting its power more directly. Now break out that manual for the Tx so you can adjust the subtrim! You can also adjust the length of the turnbuckle that connects the servo horn to the bellcrank, instead of the subtrim, or if you don't have enough subtrim adjustment. I'm really starting to want one of these now.

Obeast44

I hope ya don't mind but here is a short video of an XBe vs XB drag race for those who want a comparison.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxihHz-1pXg

royw

Nice video. Thank you.

Found the reason the front right axle disengaged from the differential, it had lost the bottom screw and bushing on the right steering mount (07117).



Time to order parts... Then it will be time for locktite blue...

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

That's pretty sad they didn't size the battery trays so you could lay down standard size lipos...

Obeast44

Actually you can lay most of the various battery sizes down just fine. Turnigy's are known to be a tad bigger than most similarly rated batteries. Guess they were a little too wide to fit. What were they supposed to do, measure every single battery out there?

csp1971

I agree with Obeast, just head out to hobbyking and see the multiple sizes of lipos. Unfortunately, days of the standard 7.2 volt pack size are not there for the lipo market.

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

I have only ever ordered Turnigys and zippys in 2S-4S in soft and hard cases with the 30-40C ratings and they have literally fit in everything I have ever used.

I guess I just didn't know standard Turnigy packs were a non-standard size. The packs also fit in all of the universal battery mounts I have ever used.

Maj_Overdrive

My Feedback: (11)

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that the reason the OP couldn't fit his particular batteries is because of the wires. Because 138mmx47mm is a fairly "standard" size (at least for the battery compartment) and there's a decent size buldge on the side of his pack where the wires exit. I have a similar issue with my LX1-e and the 5s turnigy pack I run. If the side of the battery box were any higher than it is my wires would hit, as it is the wires have to make a somewhat uncomfortable turn. Unfortunately the dimensions don't always reflect any buldge where the wires exit the pack.