Dirty_Vinylpusher

Did you work out how to do the clutch/grinder setup?

GoMeR23

Not yet actually... Im still in the progress if figuring it out. Plus my steering h bridge needs to be redesigned... I guess it wouldnt handle the current of the motor. It got real hot and started smoking!

Mudgy

If you can't find a bridge rectifier big enough, grab 2 x + diodes and 2 x - diodes from your local auto sparky (maybe from an old Lucas or CAV alternator - press - in)
drill 2 x pieces of alloy angle, press the doides in, and wire them up to make the bridge.

I did it to make a 12v tyre pump into an air brush compressor motor (via a 240v - 12 v ac transformer)
It can handle 15 amps at 12vdc.
I know, you will want a photo, right?
That'll take a bit of time, as the box is now screwed under my bench..these days, it's a battery charger.

GoMeR23

Its not necsesarily a bridge rectifier, its the motor directional relay controller that links the smaller voltage servo to the larger voltage steering motor. It uses transisters or mosfets to to act as a relay that tells the large motor to move in sync with the servo's puny motor. Its giving me problems, I dont think I wired the circuit right because its restricting the power from the battery to drill motor.

GoMeR23

Update time! Sorry its been so long, ive been busy getting my wedding ready! I made a working h bridge, tested and finished the high torque drill motor, I just need to solder it up. Im bagging the angle grinder. I just cant figure it out with my limited tools. I will just run a small spur gear straight from the clutch.

GoMeR23

Here is the frame with the suspension layout, I have a few tabs for the rear swingarm welded up, I just have to bend and weld the arm together. also the motor is now sitting sideways, I think I will bag the angle grinder and mount a very small pinion gear straight off the clutch shaft. Hopefully that gives me a good gear ratio. I have the diff figured out, I have those two tubes cut straight and trued up the ends. I will weld a big fender washer to each tube with the middle cut out to match the size of the pipe, then I will bolt those together with another washer in the middle with holes drilled around the center to act as the ball cage. Then the axles will be spring loaded and press against eachother with the balls inbetween!

GoMeR23

As you can see the sprocket is very small! Im hoping that will give me good torque and decent speed...

Dirty_Vinylpusher

Good to see you back, I was wondering what happened to you....


Did you work out the gear ratio?
Count the teeth on the sprockets and divide the big with the small.

GoMeR23

The suspense-ion is killing me!

GoMeR23

K update on the build, first I have a new video not much progres, but the frame looks more sandrail-y.
Link here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thC6...e_gdata_player
For the differential, I know I said in the video I was going to make the differential tubes out of metal tube, and I have half done but the tube isn't perfectly round inside so I'm worried about the bearing fitting right. So as I was making it I realized the finished product would look a lot like a stock scooter wheel. So I'm going to try modifying a wheel to make a diff.

Sandrail

No updates?

GoMeR23

Im still working on some things. Alot has been going on lately, my dad took his life a week before Christmas so I've been focusing on other things lately. I had to redesign the suspension and drive shafts, I will have some good stuff soon!

tommygun32

My condolences to you and your family GoMeR.

I'm sorry to hear that. [&o]

Lars from Norway

I am very sorry to hear this. Hope all goes as well as it can for you. Look at tommygun32's signature, i found this appropriate for what you have gone and are going through.

GoMeR23

Thanks guys, it meAns a lot! I'm changing the suspension design a little bit, if I use a trailing arm I would need a driveshaft that telescopes due to the misaligned travel of the swing arm. So I'm going to build a standard suspension setup, here are some pics of my rear knuckle and u joint.

GoMeR23

More rear knuckle pics

Mudgy

Looking good mate...keep at it [8D]




When you have your 1st run, the smile can't be wiped off mate

Bones27

Nice work! I have read the entire thread and I'm thinking of starting my own project. Still researching and gathering ideas to add to some of my own. Can't wait to see your finished product.

GoMeR23

Hey guys! I'm back with an update and breakthrough on the project! I had been working this whole time on figuring out a steering setup, I planned on using a windshield wiper motor for a steering servo, but I couldn't find an h bridge that worked or a straightforward explanation on how to build one. After some research on mosfets, motors, etc. I found a circuit that works great for driving a wiper motor, and I modified it a little so that any servo can be used to drive it. I made a few videos on how to build a servo, here is the link. There are three videos because I explain in detail how to build a servo! Enjoy!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEoeR...e_gdata_player

GoMeR23

Did some more work on the rail, got part of the right hand side rear swing arm done.

craigrobbo

Its a shame you scraped the trailing arms

Maybe consider using telescopic shafts, I wouldn't have thought they are too difficult to make?

GoMeR23

So I've been thinking about the rear suspension and driveline, I don't like the clearance I get with the lower a arm I designed.... I still like the trailing arm idea. So I found the polaris ranger rzr has a 3 link trailing arm setup...

thehuntingterminator

Cool. Keep going.

Dirty_Vinylpusher

Hey I saw a pic of a full size buggy where they had used the rear jackshaft as the pivot point for the trailing arms = no chain slackening.
Also they ran one chain to each wheel from the jackshaft so the rear wheels moved independently.

Something to consider perhaps?
I'll definietly be looking in to that for my large build.

GoMeR23

The reason I want to use this design is the two rods match the travel of the driveshaft. I won't have to make the driveshaft telescope.